videoarizona

Next step after Jeff's post is to take apart the computer. Make sure the plugs going into computer are clean. Plenty of info here on taking computer out, apart and replacing deteriorating diodes. If diodes are toast, computer probably is too. If you are lucky, then solder new diodes and done! And thanks for updates.

Kevin, I was going to try the original resister first since it's within the parameters...6.9k. Didn't know that was part of the original system. Interesting!

Agreed! Thanks for sharing. Trying to remember if Triumph motor heat ever bothered us way back when! Don't think so. To young and stoopid to know better, probably.

The buddy I ride with had a shovel. We were riding together in Cave Creek and stopped for breakfast. He gets off the bike and notices a small puddle of oil. We come out 30 minutes later and it's a huge puddle. I take him to store and he buys oil. Fills up the crankcase. No more leaks??! To this day he only has a theory, no proof, as to what happened. So dissimilar metals makes perfect sense to me. My guess? She just wanted to "mark her spot" in the parking lot. He sold it and bought a 2012 Ultra. Only one issue with the Ultra so far, a shift rod broke. 2 different metals and the one that breaks is hard to get to. He slipped the clutch the last 30 miles home. Knock on wood...my Yamahas have been reliable. david

Nah...won't boil your battery unless you are running a Shovelhead. Our Ventures love the heat!

The speedo can be re-calibrated with an external teeny weeny circuit board found here: I did this on my VStar 950T and then calibrated it so it's dead on to the GPS. You need model Y1 (if memory serves) http://www.motomummy.com/chain-kits-with-steel-front-and-rear-sprocket/12-oclocklabs-speedodrd/?gclid=Cj0KEQjwy92wBRCl7trx4PaIo8EBEiQASPhtCzkxY2YmbSTaGRvjmPwNar4kmGT3OBOpkBeWw7aQCW8aAlS38P8HAQ or http://tinyurl.com/oq4jwxx david

Time to update thread: I have a stock 89 1st Gen windshield. Free. I'll even pay shipping unless you are on the moon or Mars It's well used but probably good for someone who wants/needs a screen to cut down for a warm weather screen. The PO did try to get most of the film off...so it probably can be buffed out nicely. I used it until I could find the bux to get a new screen. So Pay It Forward time..... it's boxed and ready to go. david

The only difference I had when I trailered my 2nd Gen from Jack's set up is I used the handlebars to attach my soft straps, then from there, went forward and to the side with rachet straps. The roll on chock worked great holding the scoot while I put on the straps. I didn't bolt my chock down as I rented from UHaul. The only issue I had with the chock is the fat front tire got stuck in there. Not to easy to back off an 860 pound beastie from the chock trying to unload! Maybe I'll take off the roll on part next time I trailer! david

Hmmm. Let's see....Arizona: I have snow I can drive to: Check I have rain once in a while: Check I have pretty ladies from all over the world who like to wear little since it's almost always warm: Check I have beautiful roads to ride on year around: Check I don't have the Cowboys or the Packers: Check I do have the Cardinals: Check And...most important....I'm so far away from @Flyinfool's Snow Machine...it's hard for him to ruin my day! CHECK! I'm stayin....

Sorry to hear that. At least you don't have to fish for screws in the tank like I did on my VStar. After that bit of fun, I used some locktite on the screws!! Think it's time for me to go check them and lube them!

Latest: "The side bib on the bottom is used to exhaust the heat from pump inside, which will make pump more stable than old version.But you needn't care it.If you have any other questions,Pls feel free to advise." So it appears to be a benign bib. A cooling vent. Should make a good spare pump to carry on road trip...

Good to hear, Jeff. About the rider. Glad to hear the scoot survived as well!

Just did. Good idea! We shall see... david

It should come off straight up. Orient the arrow on cap straight forward and keep at it. Please let us know where you are with this and what else you have tried.

Got same answer....so guess it does have the check valve...

Rodney, make sure you take off the engine brace beside the front two cylinders. makers it mucho easier to get to the plugs....

I emailed seller about the stop valve. I'll report back what they say.

Heather...that is exactly how my HF jack works. Backwards in my mind but it does work. Sigh. Slam that pedal down, Son!

Solved the problem the old fashioned way...order an AGM battery. No more fills and spills. BTW, the battery still shows good voltage but with it needing to be overfull to charge properly....I decided I'm done with wet batteries. Now to figure out if the landfill will take the battery!

GW, Prayers Up to the family and to you....in the loss of your friend.

Thanks Jeff.

I know this is an old thread. But just ran across it and can't stop laughing! This should be a sticky to show how good the humor is on this forum. (or how sick we are)

So, with a newer type battery then Jeff, I would need to change out the resistor to around 2K ohms and run the other end to bike/frame ground or to the battery ground?

Jeff, liquid is acid. Battery is leaking around top on left side somewhere as it's leaking while off bike being charged. Just checked. The resistor is going to a white wire with red/orange (?) stripe. I think the battery is toast. Only charges when fluid levels are high enough to do so...and that's above the "FULL" line on the battery. I think that is why the battery is leaking...it's overfull....and boiling out the seam around the top and the side case. When level is where it should be, the battery stays on charge for way to long. My Battery Tender chargers are slow, but they do shut off!

Interesting situation: Lately my 89 has been acting weird when starting. Like a battery going bad problem. So last week, I put it on the Deltran charger and noticed a few hours later, the red light was still on. Still charging. Hmm...something is not right here. I go to check it, and find the water level is down in 1/2 the cells! What? My first thought was overcharging. But the gauge acts normal when riding and at stop! So I take out the trusty meter and connect to battery to see what is going on with charging system. At idle and at running rpm, charging is good. I Measured volts while running. 13.2 with everything on at idle....13.8 and slowly climbing with everything on at 3K rpm...nothing stands out. Both the meter and the gauge on the bike show normal. I took the battery out and don't see any cracks in the case. There was water/acid in battery compartment though. Could be vibration is causing the crack (if it exists) to leak while riding. If this is the case this will be the first time a battery has leaked on me. I have battery on Battery Tender charging.....no leaks or overflow so far. Question #1: What else am I overlooking? BTW, the PO put a resister in the circuit AND this battery does have the sensor! Question #2: If I replace with a sealed unit....will this resister setup work?