videoarizona

From my house to yours....Happy Thanksgiving!

I leave top vents closed in winter, leg vents open...( not much comes through...) And engine vents open to keep legs warm on frosty mornings. Close them when weather warms up.

#1 for solo, #2 with Pat on back. Add full luggage and I go to #3.

The spring should still be good enough to give you bounce.....The air and dampening gives control. Wonder what's going on? Maybe you are right...whole shock is shot. I'm surprised though...

Just read this.... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?20476-Slow-air-leak-in-rear-shock-resolved&highlight=rear+shock+removal Wondering out loud if this will seal your air leak in the shock??? david

I am running LED clearance instead of reflectors on both Ventures. No problems so far. The LED strips I put under the fairing on the 1st Gen are still running despite rain and such...though we don't have much of that around here. Biggest problem I've had has been a minor annoyance. The power wires from the LED strips are tiny...and keeping them soldered to my bigger wires seems to be problematic with vibration. Just came back from a 400 mile run to Phoenix and around the area there and noticed I've got a headlight issue with 1st gen. Low beam is on but very low, high beam is fine. No warning from computer as it seems the low beam is on just enough to not trigger the computer. Weird! It's a Sylvania Ultra Star bulb. Lasted two years. Guess that's good.

Just for grins and giggles, take out both speakers and reverse them... see if the lousy sound follows the speaker. That will tell you if speaker bad or bike side bad. Could be bad connection, grounded connection, bad source (radio, tape) or bad amp.

Hmmm...sounds like a normal warm up to me. Although I do let mine sit for a few minutes when cold then push off the choke and take off. One thing I don't do is throttle up under 3K rpm in 5th gear. Just to low rpm my opinion. I downshift.

I use YamaLube 20-50 in all three scoots. Quieted the VStar 950T noises, quieted the RSV whine and the VR loves it as well.

Hmmm..I get error 525...

Bill, You can convert your running lights to LED without any issues or resistors. Resistors are only needed on the turn signal circuit because the turn signal flasher needs the resistance of the light bulbs (the load on the circuit) to flash at the proper speed. Without normal bulbs in that circuit, the flashers flash to fast...requiring the addition of resistors to slow everything down again. To me, adding resistors to the circuit is a waste since they have the same current draw as the light bulbs...so no gain there. However, if you add LED turn signals to your existing bulb turn signals, no resister needed since the bulbs are still in line with the flasher. That's what I did when I replaced my front and rear side reflectors with LED lights and attached them to the running light circuit and the turn signal circuit. They run all the time and blink when I use turn signals. Bottom line: 1: Adding LEDs to your existing turn signals is fine...no resistors needed. 2: Replacing your bulb running lights with LED's is fine as well. No resistors needed. By switching out all your bulb running lights with LED's, your electrical load will drop a lot. Last...there are LED replacement bulbs on the market that simply plug in to your run/brake light in the rear. That results in a brighter light that uses less power. Fool's little circuit board will add a flasher to that system so his brake lights will flash when applied. We can buy those flashers for incandescent and LED bulbs as well...he is saving bux and getting exactly what he wants by building it himself! Cool... Hope this helps, david

No distractions or high tech for me. Saw the ads last week as well... However, I would like a helmet that protected my ears from wind noise better!! The Scorpion does a decent job...but want more.

That's what I was thinking too...but it's available for anyone to try... Otherwise I'll get rid of it.

Depends upon how the pins are wired. The one listing earlier for holding will work as it's same pin outs as ours.

LOL! Sounds about right!

Good question. My thoughts are to keep the air pressure near maximum and enjoy the ride.

((The readings changes almost daily or after riding awhile and stopping.)) OK...that's a decent clue right there: It doesn't help me, but maybe someone else will recognize this issue. I'm going to go back to the basics: 1: Speedo is driven by a black donut shaped unit mounted between the left front fork and the front wheel on the axle. The unit is somewhat round except on the top where two ridges exists. The unit is mounted such that these ridges are located between a ridge mount on the wheel. This is how the unit is "locked" in place. If the unit floats, your speedo readings will not be accurate. From there, the cable goes north to the speedo head...where it mechanically drives the speedo head. Simple system and reasonably accurate. I would take the front wheel off, being careful to note how the speedo unit is placed, take it off, clean it and grease it. Check interior parts for significant wear. If nothing appears wrong then put back together. Grease cable end as well. Make sure nut holding cable is secure to the speedo unit. Remount the speedo unit, axle and front wheel back together, making sure the ridges on the speedo "donut" are on either side of the ridge on the wheel and secure. Now try and get some grease into the speedo head itself. Some have been able to put grease on cable end at top and shove it in and that works. Others have had to use some pressure to get the lube into the speedo head to grease the bearings. Either way...try to grease it. That should eliminate any issues with speedo except the speedo head itself being bad. BTW, the electronic portion of the speedo signal also goes to the cruise control...but don't think your problem is there. The tach is electronic/mechanical. Signal originates at the coil of #2 cylinder, (LF) and goes to the tach. It's a green/yellow wire from coil. You might dig down in there and check that wire for corrosion at coil or anywhere else it goes....although I can't see it going anywhere else in the simplified schematic. Corrosion at either end could cause different readings based on moisture/heat/cold... ie, resistance flucuations, etc.. david

That or maybe you have a different rear end ratio!?!? Wonder if a different diameter front wheel would change speedo....Are you the original owner?

I'm with Jeff. I enjoy following where you are going with your VR. I'm learning as fast as I can read! Thanks for the pics as well! david

Came across a 5 pound container of silica. It's has a fine granular consistency. May be to fine for our 1st gen Class systems by itself. BUT, I bet someone could get creative and make a nice cylindrical pouch for it to fit in that is breathable and would fit in the tube container inside the CLASS hardware. Free to anyone who wants some. I can send it out in a sandwich baggie I guess...unless someone has a better idea. Or I can send the whole thing to one of our forum guru's and they can parcel it out. Let me know... david

Good site, although some of the reviews are not quite up to snuff. That's where we got our information for riding the Coronado Highway...old Devil's Highway..RT 191.

Hmmm....

LOL!! Meanwhile.....I'm