videoarizona

Agreed. I bought the same lights and put them on my VStar 950T. I swapped out the stock bulbs with 20 watt versions. They work fine. Lots of light at night that I have aimed to the side a tad and good visibility for cagers during the day... You will like those lights. PS I think Ikea may have LED versions of those bulbs as well...but don't know how much power they have... This pic is with the 20 watt bulbs in... OH...last thought. I drilled a tiny hole in each front housing and put a tiny screw in the hole. Did that to hold the front element to the body better. I used the little punch dimple to drill the hole.

Thoughts: 1: Leave site the way it is. I like the ability to read about the various changes in our bikes. 2: Like the ability to search older posts and learn. 3: Like to be able to sell or buy Yamaha and other bikes and parts from members here. 4: Don't want other bikes here unless the members here also ride them, then yes. But let's not add Indians and VStars (even though I own one) to the mix. 5: We are family...and I'm pleased to have found this forum for that reason alone! The rest of what this forum offers is a tremendous side benefit! 6: $12/year? I'd pay twice that for the information available here. We also get phone numbers to call when help is needed, parts to buy or trade or pay it forward, items of interest to me as a rider like clothing opinions or "look what I found" adventures. Yeppers, worth every minute of my time I spend here and well worth the bux. Don't change...lets just keep on...moving on...riding on... fwiw, david

Still haven't found a luggage rack. But will start looking seriously (again) after New Year. david

cling to

Amen...

Thanks, Du-Ron. That's what my 89 shop manual shows. Wish I had thought to bring it with me this morning....duh! david

A picture of Bill (Kic) driving his dad's Ford tractor....so cool...it runs good!

((Is there anything for redirecting the wind for these bikes)) I've found the best solution is twofold: 1: Find some lowers that can re-direct some of the airflow past the steering/tank area. IE something more than the clear plastic whoopies we have on the 2nd gens that help push air away from us. I'm going to add some lowers on my 2nd gen...got them from Browards in Florida...best price on net. Around $160.00 They can help cool your feet and legs in summer as well. 2: Add a vent to the windshield (like Clearview's or Honda's vent) to help eliminate the low pressure area. This also adds cooling to your chest or face.

The top vents can be closed near the speakers...at least on my 89. The leg vents can be closed as well. But I don't bother since very little air comes out them. The input duct is just under the fairing...2 big holes. Look like jet engine intakes to Hondas and Harleys as I zoom past them.... The engine "vents" you may not have. They are located between the cylinders on the later 1st gens....you may have a wide open hole.

It is good stuff...fa sure...

Love it!

From my house to yours....Happy Thanksgiving!

I leave top vents closed in winter, leg vents open...( not much comes through...) And engine vents open to keep legs warm on frosty mornings. Close them when weather warms up.

#1 for solo, #2 with Pat on back. Add full luggage and I go to #3.

The spring should still be good enough to give you bounce.....The air and dampening gives control. Wonder what's going on? Maybe you are right...whole shock is shot. I'm surprised though...

Just read this.... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?20476-Slow-air-leak-in-rear-shock-resolved&highlight=rear+shock+removal Wondering out loud if this will seal your air leak in the shock??? david

I am running LED clearance instead of reflectors on both Ventures. No problems so far. The LED strips I put under the fairing on the 1st Gen are still running despite rain and such...though we don't have much of that around here. Biggest problem I've had has been a minor annoyance. The power wires from the LED strips are tiny...and keeping them soldered to my bigger wires seems to be problematic with vibration. Just came back from a 400 mile run to Phoenix and around the area there and noticed I've got a headlight issue with 1st gen. Low beam is on but very low, high beam is fine. No warning from computer as it seems the low beam is on just enough to not trigger the computer. Weird! It's a Sylvania Ultra Star bulb. Lasted two years. Guess that's good.

Just for grins and giggles, take out both speakers and reverse them... see if the lousy sound follows the speaker. That will tell you if speaker bad or bike side bad. Could be bad connection, grounded connection, bad source (radio, tape) or bad amp.

Hmmm...sounds like a normal warm up to me. Although I do let mine sit for a few minutes when cold then push off the choke and take off. One thing I don't do is throttle up under 3K rpm in 5th gear. Just to low rpm my opinion. I downshift.

I use YamaLube 20-50 in all three scoots. Quieted the VStar 950T noises, quieted the RSV whine and the VR loves it as well.

Hmmm..I get error 525...

Bill, You can convert your running lights to LED without any issues or resistors. Resistors are only needed on the turn signal circuit because the turn signal flasher needs the resistance of the light bulbs (the load on the circuit) to flash at the proper speed. Without normal bulbs in that circuit, the flashers flash to fast...requiring the addition of resistors to slow everything down again. To me, adding resistors to the circuit is a waste since they have the same current draw as the light bulbs...so no gain there. However, if you add LED turn signals to your existing bulb turn signals, no resister needed since the bulbs are still in line with the flasher. That's what I did when I replaced my front and rear side reflectors with LED lights and attached them to the running light circuit and the turn signal circuit. They run all the time and blink when I use turn signals. Bottom line: 1: Adding LEDs to your existing turn signals is fine...no resistors needed. 2: Replacing your bulb running lights with LED's is fine as well. No resistors needed. By switching out all your bulb running lights with LED's, your electrical load will drop a lot. Last...there are LED replacement bulbs on the market that simply plug in to your run/brake light in the rear. That results in a brighter light that uses less power. Fool's little circuit board will add a flasher to that system so his brake lights will flash when applied. We can buy those flashers for incandescent and LED bulbs as well...he is saving bux and getting exactly what he wants by building it himself! Cool... Hope this helps, david

No distractions or high tech for me. Saw the ads last week as well... However, I would like a helmet that protected my ears from wind noise better!! The Scorpion does a decent job...but want more.

That's what I was thinking too...but it's available for anyone to try... Otherwise I'll get rid of it.