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This is the 85's VIN: JYA59J001FA001416. This is the 83's VIN: JAY47T004D000237. The 83 was originally sold in the land of fruits and nuts. IT is a XVZ12DKC2; Yamaha says the "C" means California model. So it's over the magic number NEENNER, NEENNER, NEENNER! Randy; you must have a photographic memory or take good notes! Yeah the 85 turns pretty easy. Besides the engine being worn out any ideas? What do you think about moving the transmission's internals to the '83?

I have a 83, and an 85. I THINK the engine in the 85 is toast, it sure turns easy with a 1/2" breaker bar; easier than my Briggs and Stratton mini-bike (lawn mower) engine. So with that said... after reading this post I wonder should I mover the 83's engine (after transplanting the 85's transmission internals to the 83 case (that SHOULD WORK SHOULDN"T IT?) to the 85 frame... I know some marine welders, they are some of the best around. I could probably get one to come over and use my MIG to re-enforce the (so far as I know at this writing) still intact frame I have....Does anyone have a drawing of what needs to be done? Showing materials, dimensions, and locations of a engineered fix?

Apparently all is well with the clutch! I started it up, let it get warm, (temp gauge in the upper green zone) checked for leaks and cycled through the gears. No more symptoms of not fully dis-engaging! After a few more projects are completed I'll take for a spin through my little 'hood!

Yeah I got a half disk and installed it. Thanks Rick!

I wish it were; I have the manual, I have the pdf version, I have the pdf version on a 40" monitor out in the garage. The drawing in the parts book and the manual are LOUSY! The first 2 rings that go into the basket look virtually the same, there is no mention in the book about the 1/2 disk at all (at least not that I can find). I do have the Yamaha video on YOUTUBE installing the clutch but near as I can see they don't give the torque of the case cover screws anywhere; at least not where I looked!. They do say use yamabond #4 in the text but in the front of the manual there is a paragraph on ALL gaskets and no mention of YAMABOND is made... IN the chapter they do say to use the Yamabond #4.

I spotted these on YouTube. I hope they aren't a repeat! Watch out for the fuzzy video and the KA RAZY music! 01 of 12: [ame= ] [/ame] 02 of 12: [ame= ] [/ame] 03 of 12: [ame= ] [/ame] 04 of 12: [ame= ] [/ame] 05 of 12: [ame= ] [/ame] 06 of 12: [ame= ] [/ame] 07 of 12: [ame= ] [/ame] 08 of 12: [ame= ] [/ame] 09 of 12: [ame= ] [/ame] 10 of 12: [ame= ] [/ame] 11 of 12: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdF7bMiP01Q]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdF7bMiP01Q[/ame] 12 of 12: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPqpEn1-sdA

Yes there are the same basic size. If you are trying to determine if I rec's a SET of disks I did; they were in the original box. If they weren't the same size they wouldn't work.

Thanks for the response! I'm working on a 1st Gen Venture Royale, not a RSV so any info you can provide on a 1st Gen Venture Royale would be appreciated.

Ok I went to YouTube, the manual, and Ventureriders, and I'm now confused. I have 8 friction disks in my new set of disks. 2 are different than the other 6. One has a small square notch on 1 side and a large square notch on the other side. The other "Odd" disk has NO marks or half circle or square notches on it. The other six all have the half circle notches. I took out the thin wire that holds the spacer, friction disk, and steel disk on the inboard side of the clutch basket. Then I got side-tracked. So in what order does everything go in there please? I know I have a steel and spacer and a friction disk go behind and are held in by the this wire, the rest go outboard of the wire. Any help would be appreciated!

OK; lots of good information there but nowhere in the Yamaha literature I have can I find a statement about using anything on a gasket. So DOES Yamahas recommend the use of any dressing on their gaskets and if so which ones please?

What are "drive fingers" please?

I ran an advert in the classifieds for some parts I needed. I was hesitant to order them from a on-line supplier or the dealer because the shipping costs were too high. The shipping costs were hidden in the cost of the parts, or the parts were priced as though the shipping was included AND there was a shipping charge on top of it as well. My thinking was I could locate the parts here on the forum and pay a reasonable cost for the parts and shipping. Well then I went to E-Bay. There I found all but 1 part I needed and the total cost was less than HALF the cost anywhere else and all the parts were NEW. Some parts had free shipping (and the cost of the part was still reasonable) or the shipping was less than the other sources with the cost of the part still being reasonable; most cases WAY less than the on-line or dealer sources. I pulled the advert. in the classified and feel pretty good about how wisely I spend my parts $$. Thanks for reading.

So gaskets being what they are... What gaskets use RTV/Gasket Dressing? Flip the coin> What gaskets go on dry? Why?

No I haven't, I will give your suggestion a try. The wiring up around the fuse panel is so screwed up, some PO installed all in live fuses when the (I guess) the fuse panel broke. It's a very ugly mess. I have 2 ATO fuse panels of 5 circuits each I plan using as soon as I get a suitable material to fasten them to that I can in turn fasten into place using the rubber straps provided by Yamaha. QUOTE=Venturous;812356]Doug, just out of curiosity, have you actually cranked the engine over, even by hand? I ask this because it is common that if an engine has been in the weather, at least one cylinder may have surface rust in it. You can remove the little side cover where the stator is and put a socket on the crank. RandyA

Funny you should mention that; that's exactly what I did last week, about a shot glass worth of Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in each cylinder! While serving in the USAF I spent 3 years in Fairbanks, AK. I was a vehicle Maintenance troop working in the body shop. We used MMO in Transmissions, hydraulic systems, power steering systems in general purpose stuff, in the heavy equipment, snow removal feet, just about everywhere.

Well I got the air box, rubber stacks (between the air box and top of the carbs) clean, the outside of the carbs clean, the float bowls flushed with Wal-Mart's Carb cleaner, hosed down the crap off the engine, changed the plugs, (cleaned the plug recesses with a small rag soaked in carb cleaner twisted into the recess with a 3/8" dia. bottle brush). Then I took off the oil filter housing. Covered in black crap. Drained the oil out of the cover; there was a large, brown ,creamy blob of what I would guess is water and oil on the engine case. I'm hoping this was condensate caused. The bike has sat outside for a long time. No washer plate or spring in there either. Yamaha lists the parts for less that $3.00 a piece. www.Yamahapartshouse.com wants NINTEEN DOLLARS and change to ship a washer and a little spring. They also wanted the same $19.++ to ship 2 clutch cover gaskets to me from Michigan. Essentially 2 very small pieces of paper that wouldn't weigh as much as the envelope they could be mail in. www.Yamahapartshouse.com wanted $9.++ each for the clutch cover gaskets and $17.++ to ship them. The local dealer gets $12.++ each for those gaskets and that includes the shipping; the dealer got the order. Tuesday I'm calling him about the throttle cables, washer, & spring for the oil filter. What's with shipping costs!

Go on line and download a factory service manual, I got mine on e-bay. NEXT: Go to walmart and buy 10 cans of their carb leaner, it's cheap and will do the job. While you are there get a couple cans of Sea Foam gas treatment; it is the sh_ _! Oh yeah remove the top cover, air filter and air cleaner box. See the manual. AFTER locating where the drain valve are in the manual you will find there are 4 drain (or should be) hoses 2 on a side just outboard of the carbs. At one time they were labeled. With a long skinny screwdriver and a good light locate the bowl drain valves with coffee can in hand under the drain hos open the valve a few turns drain the crud out. when it stops go to the next carb and repeat. Find a way to seal the little red stem that comes with the carb cleaner to the drain hose, put the screwdriver on the drain valve and fill the bowl; you'll know it's full when you see the cleaner coming out of the tops of the carbs. Gently close the carb drain while the bowl is full, let soak a while. repeat like 4 times for each carb. Get some new gas in the bike, put a lot of Seafoam in it, change the plugs or check and re-gap the ones in there. after your all done fill the bowls and see if she'll start. Oh yeah WELCOME!!! it'll BE THE BEST 12 BUCKS YOU EVER SPENT JOINING THIS SITE!

When I got the bike(s) home it took a MONUMENTAL effort to get them into the garage, this first bike (the '83) I backed down the ramp on the trailer into the shop (garage)... NOT so bad. Moving the bike around IN the shop has been another story, very hard to push about but I guess anything that weighs 700+ Lbs. would be. With the '85 I had LOTS of help and it was a real Bi__h to move! Man it was tough! This past Christmas my 2 sons were here and yeah you bet yer backside I sat on the '85 while they pushed me where I needed to put the bike!

Thanks to everyone for the guidance! This is why I wanted to re-pack the wheel bearings: In my experience most used vehicles have not received the periodic maintenance the OEM schedules call for. When I get a used vehicle I go through the scheduled maintenance list and get the machine caught up on everything that's applicable that I can handle or get advice/help with. Those items I don't do I give to a shop to perform. This way I know what's been serviced, what needs further attention and if I need to trouble shoot I have a pretty good idea of what the problem IS NOT and that goes a long way to finding out what the problem IS. I notice we are an international forum so we have some language differences; that's ok and kinda cool. We learn that the other guy isn't so different just because he says things in a different way. One response suggested paraffin, here in the US that's candle wax or baking wax, but I also know that wheel bearing grease is paraffin based so there is one of those differences in culture and language... So I am getting the idea that because a motor cycle isn't as heavy as a car the grease lasts longer? That doesn't make sense to the car mechanic in me, in the military we re-packed wheel bearings every 3 years minimum, it usually happened more often due to routine inspections, brake jobs and the fact we used the cheapest grease on the planet and it did not do as good a job as the better petroleum and synthetic grease available on the market. My wheels turn easily, I don't feel any roughness when turning the bearing with my fingers (wheel and axel removed), the brakes have their normal drag on the wheels as I turn them when the bike is lifted off it's wheels. Am I and old guy (57) or is the bike just really hard to push around my concrete floor?

On the 83; I got rid of the error E -4 code on the CLASS, (thanks to you all; apparently the busted solder joint was the issue), now I have E-1 error code. I jumpered the motor, it runs... Got the side cover of the clutch off, rubber hammer.....cleaned the old gasket off, no one mentions how the cleaning operation is done keeping all the bits and pieces out of the crank case.... Got a used 40" monitor on the wall in the garage, BOY does it make the manual much easier to see! Very cool!

I went to Harbor freight and got a KILLER DEAL on their drive on 1,000 lbs. M/C lift. No more laying on the floor working on the bikes! Ecept when changing out clutches and such....

My 83 has a zirc (grease) fitting on the aft end top side of the shaft tube, I can't find any mention of it in the manual. Any ideas about what goes into this grease fitting? Standard Automotive grease maybe? Also looking for a post on R and R the clutch disks and springs on the 83... read all about everything BUT R & R.

I get a E-4 error code (no signal from the pressure sensor) when checking the CLASS suspension system. The part isn't available, apparently it came with the valves; not alone. Am I goig to find one? Is there a work around for this? Your input would be helpful! Is there a functional test for the sensor to rule it out as the problem? I know if I rule out the connections between the computer and the sensor pig tail and it still gives me "E-4" it could be the sensor or the computer....I have another sensor and computer in the 85, prob. won't work on a 83 though....right?

Holy Cow!!!! I have helped people in the past and am luck my arse is intact like many of you. As Strother Martin once said "People are SO MISERABLE!" ("Rooster Cogburn and the Lady" a movie I'm sure we're all familiar with) and he was SO RIGHT!. Stopping to help someone and getting poorly treated is FUBAR (German for messed up) !!!!

I put a 2"x6" under the bike then some 1.5" X 1.5" under the frame rails, and lifted it up by the frame, NP! I will follow your advice and check the un-loaded drag of each wheel. The book says to drive out the bearings with a socket (and hammer I assume) Just how do the members here remove wheel bearings?