dna9656

EPIPHANY I just had one! My '83 (though it's an 84) XVZ12DKC2 is a Royale. When I had the rear wheel off I didn't really pay attention to the air shock back there. Now that I have an original equipment one on my bench I notice the one on the bike is different. I haven't taken the wheel off yet to be sure. It has an exposed RED coil spring on it. So this tells me it's NOT original equipment? I noticed on the 2nd gen that the spring is exposed (shocks offered for sale on EBay) So can you guys tell me what it is? Is this shock connected to the CLASS?

Got the 4 brush starter installed with the upgrade cabling to include the ground wire from the battery - to without removing the radiator. On re-assembly I cleaned and lightly greased the starter is all the appropriate places... I Disconnect the battery. 2. Remove the hose that runs down the L/H side to the by-pass valve/pipe assembly. 3. Remove all other hoses on the by-pass assembly. 3. Remove screw that holds clamp on by-pass assembly and the T-stat (on the right side of the T-stat) and the screw on the right side of the T-stat. 4. Remove by-pass vale/piping assembly. 5. Using a block of wood GENTLY tap the T-stat housing off and away from the plastic elbow that leads into the water pump. Take the T-stat assembly away from the engine. 6. GENTLY remove (twist) the plastic elbow out of the water pump outlet. 7. Remove "HOT" wire from starter. 8. Remove 2 screws that hold the starter to the block. 9. Clean all areas, clean areas where the starter sits in the hole in the block, clean the starter up, clean up the drain assembly, clean anything and all things with in a 6" radius of the starter. Follow the factory service manual or the text you have.

I wasn't having back fire issues but I will tell you about my slider adventure. I was running the engine with the air cleaner assembly removed and was watching the black cylinders move in unison with the movement of the throttle; ok NORMAL except for one; the left rear I believe; anyway I stopped the engine and removed the "cap" under which the diaphragm/cylinder assembly that moves that black cylinder is located. I carefully removed the rubber diaphragm/cylinder assembly (it's stuck to the carb housing), removed the diaphragm from the cylinder and held it to the light and gently stretched it looking for holes and tears. Then I inspected the black cylinder. I found a groove parallel to the ends (the groove went AROUND the cylinder NOT length-wise) so I got some 1200 grit wet of dry paper and SLOWLY sanded the (mostly) groove out. I again gently re-joined the diaphragm and the cylinder and in turn re-installed the assembly. She seems to be running ok...If the slider (cylinder) is fubar they are available....so if it works great, if not I'll get another. So maybe you got a groove in your slider....

Also note that the 4 brush starter takes different overhaul parts!

I was wondering if I can get a few parts and make the royale forks inflate manually VS. using the on board compressor. If I knew anyone in my local area with a royale I would ask them to test the controller but alas I do not know anyone in my county that does.

My good buddy, Lyle (even though he rides a NON-metric bike (read ROAD KING) got the 2 brush starter back together! He got that stubborn snout bearing out and installed all the overhaul parts for me! I'd really like to get him involved in our forums. He's a different kind of guy, he's deaf so he experiences the world a little differently than those of us who are not deaf. He has the in-plants and he does just (he is a co-worker) fine at work too. Hooray for my good friend Lylw!

:225:Fuse? Fuse? WE don't need no stinkin' FUSE! We got PENNIES!!!!

I had a guy that's trained in fixing circuit boards for the military look at and repair the solder joints. He also fixed a crack in a circuit board. I get the codes 1 and 4 for one unit and code 4 from the 2nd unit I have. So I don't know what's left to do besides replace th esensor?

I can only go by what I see in Yamaha's diagrams. Shame on them for not spending the money for a better picture...So far as I can see they all look the same, (I mean EVERY MODEL I looked at Venture and non-Venture... so far as the brush plate goes) I figured that the early diagrams (the 1200 CCs) would show the 2 brushes, later on when the 4 brush came along they'd show that but the diagrams all look the same; but there were differences in the descriptions...indicating the 2 VS. 4 brush issue. Thanks you guys for everything!

Kevin; 3 sources (thank you so much! How Kind!) It seems one guy offers more than the others. Which one is most complete please? I got a rear shock, shrader and dampener assembly on hand already!

I have the 83 royale (so it says on the title) but the model is XVZ12DKC2 making it an 84 in the parts catalog. I think I will have to ditch the CLASS and go to the manual style due to controller issues. What's involved in converting the front forks? I will eventually overhaul the forks as is so strongly recommended in the forum; just not right now. I will (now) if it's required to make the conversion however. Thanks in advance! I need a parts list and any advice would be a good thing!

I have the 83 royale (so it says on the title) but the model is XVZ12DKC2 making it an 84 in the parts catalog. I think I will have to ditch the CLASS and go to the manual style due to controller issues. What's involved in converting the front forks? I will eventually overhaul the forks as is so strongly recommended in the forum; just not right now I will (now) if it's required to make the conversion however. Thanks in advance! I need a parts list and any advice would be a good thing!

Just got done checking the number of brushes on the starter that just arrived via the USPS. Using the excellent information provided by the membership of this and the Venturers forum I have learned that the 2 brush starters are easily ID'd from the 4 brush models from the outside. They each have different numbers on the end cap(s) but the easiest way to tell what starter is for what engine is the 4 large Phillips screw heads in the center section of the starter. This is easy to see if the starter is somewhat clean, even when looking at pictures on EBay. I have also (maybe in vain) explained to 3 or 4 vendors on EBay that just because they see other vendors showing that the starter on the 1200cc and the 1300cc motors fit either motor that doesn't mean that's what Yamaha intended. I explain that the 1300cc requires more starter than the 1200cc. So that means what they are saying is a legit fit really isn't and they are leaving themselves open to bad feedback and returned stuff at their expense. I noticed that Mitsubishi just couldn't use common bearings or other innerds in the starters either so beware. ALSO: Yamaha (in it's infinite wisdom) uses a generic exploded view of the starter throughout all it's parts and service manual (so far as I can tell) regardless of the actual model bike you're looking at. On every bike I checked a 2 brush model is shown. You might see something in the parts description saying some thing about 4 brushes per assembly. So be prepared to explain this (as well) to a vendor on EBAY.

Shucks I thought it would have been the brake light switch grounding out directly to ground...wouldn't that do the same thing (except for the bad battery part)?

The starter works fine; it's apart to do the ground mod and while I had it apart I found the rear bearing was bad so I thought I should change the bearings, I bought the overhaul kit on ebay to overhaul it while the starter was out of the engine. There were no performance issues with the starter. All this testing is un-nessesary.

Well I don't see the multiplier on the VOM, BUT the book for my bike (XVZ12DKC2) in the Appendices "Specifications" Chapter on page 32 says the resistance should be 3.5 ohms =/- 10% at 68 F. To me in the pic it looks like he's measuring the resistance of the field coil. BUT with the picture he says the magnetic field plates aren't any good. Now I'm no motor expert, but I never heard of "magnetic field coil plates" I typed it into the search engine and what came up was stuff about permanent magnet starters. Well I know a field coil is a electromagnet, it provides lines of magnetism. In the case of a generator you got to cut 1,000,000 magnetics lines to create 1 volt. Well I think that's what the instructor said in 1976-77? Starters are just motors, motors and generators are pretty much the same animal except you apply a voltage to a motor to make it spin and you spin a generator to draw a voltage and amps. I'm sure that's an over-simplification. The starter started the bike JUST FINE. I needed the nose bearing removed is all and now we're doing this. I have a 4 brush model on the way.

I got a friend who tells me my starter is no good. What does this mean? I know what resistance is; he says the field coils are no good, I disagree; the starter started the bike just fine. I asked him to remove the troublesome bearing in the snout. Any help would be appreciated, the starter is a 2 brush for a 84 XZV12DKC2 Here's what he found: http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/20140418_170304.jpg

Thank you for your response and wisdom! While I was at work I started thinking about using my heat gun; I thought about the oven but then aluminum gives up heat pretty fast (I don't have an oven in my shop) and if there were some sort of "glue" in there it would get warm and then go back to holding that bearing in there as it cooled so I thought that wouldn't work. So when this "glue" is heated does it forever loose it's stickiness or does the heat ruin these properties? What do you think about the heat gun idea?

DON'T try to remove the output bearing on the starter. All you'll do is ruin the starter end. The housing is aluminum, the bearing is steel so unless you got some magic tool or got your mojo workin' it ain't happin'. I thought I read countless posts about rebuilding starters here, I never read anything about the output bearing being impossible to remove. Did I miss something here? Wisdom gained: Buy used starters and upgrade the ground. I have 1/16" punches. After removing the seal there is the edge of the bearing visible through the back of the housing. Thinking I could nudge the bearing out (like just about every bearing I have ever removed) I GENTLY started to nudge it out. Well the bearing cage broke apart, ok fine I still have that edge along the annulus (outer circle) to tap the bearing out, Nooo it won't move. So we get a little dremel grinder to thin out the steel of the outer bearing cage a little so it's easier to cut with (insert your favorite cheap screwdriver or (more properly) very hard and sharp chisel. Nooo. the chisel can't get any purchase. So there you have it 1 unusable starter snout. I thought about adding heat to expand the nose a little but I am leery of heating that aluminum and maybe melting it. But now what have I got to loose? Any ideas?

I bought the generic spark plug wire, the filament style, probably 5 or 5 MM. NOT what you're looking for... Sometimes NAPA has RACE stuff, you may have to ask for it. You can also get a set for a car and cut them to fit, Accel used to have a kit with 8 same length pcs. You crimped the ends on after you cut to fit; a solution I was considering... I used the cheapie stuff to get the bike operational, THEN I will get the up-graded stuff. I have attempted to bring vehicles back to life before and used top shelf parts only later to find something that forced the abandonment of the project. I found out when selling failed projects for parts or scrapping them the buyers do not care that it has 24K solid gold repair parts on it. You still get zip for you scrap.

There is a guy in Tacoma that has one! Pete!

You do not want to use an older style meter, one with a needle readout. They are shunt type meters. They will potentially damage transistorized circuits instantly. Gary See?! I didn't know that!, I wish I understood more than I do about electronics. Thanks Gary!

I am aware that it works only in "Accessory" What's it doing or not doing? It's not working. It gives codes/ it doesn't give codes. That tells me there is an intermittent connection, when you flex the wires on the harness plug going into the controller the display goes blank and comes back on. There is a small crack in the CB outboard of the input plugs "home" on the board. I have 2 controllers, an '83 and an '85. They boot up properly then display an error code 1 or 4. I have gone down the diagnostics list. In measuring some pin locations I get 5. something volts, more than 5..... and less than 5.....I get Battery Voltage, and while measuring ONE pin I get a reading that ranges from 0 to 45 while the DC VOM is in the DC volts position. I do not know enough to know what some of these readings mean. I have a digital automotive meter. Somedays I wish I had the old man's huge Simplex VOM. I never saw the indicator needle go from 0 to (pick a number) without justification; like reading the voltage of a automotive flasher, THAT I get. Some valve clicks when I turn the system on, as it should as described in the diagnostic guide. The circuit boards were checked out by a guy that's supposed to know about repairing solid state components and he re-soldered a few broken solder joints. Nothing looks burnt on the boards. Is there never a problem with the circuit board underneath the one that seems to always have broken solder joints? None of the links concerning thing talk about the board directly below the display... Sometimes one of the controllers boots up, I get NO code, the readout just shows all the options like it does during boot up. I push buttons on the controller and nothing happens, I have nothing to work with. near as I can tell SOMETHING should react to the input from the controller... hence my frustration. I am aware the standard Venture has no on board pneumatic suspension; I think it's an extravagance anyway, I mean how often does a ride mess with that? It would be great if it works, it would be even better if I could ride the bike with SOME kind of suspension, be it automatic or manual. Sometimes there is such a thing as "too much ginger (fancy options) bread". I do have my own air compressor so making changes to the suspension wouldn't be that hard on me. Thanks for your response! Every bit of info helps! Doug

Try your local NAPA

Does anyone here fix these controller boards? Apparently it's not as easy as it seems. I had a guy that's supposedly trained in fixing circuit board issues and I didn't have any luck; I have 2 of these things and they are both apparently broke or this guy didn't fix them. Before everyone tells me how easy it is to fix, it's not for all of us. I went through all the messages and got no where, I had this guy look and got nowhere. I need someone THAT KNOWS what's going on to look at these controllers. ANY help would be much appreciated; it's getting frustrating! Any one know where can I get shrader valves to make the air suspension system a manual system? Just so I can get the road on the bike THIS year! Thanks!