dna9656

I moved the factory in-line fuses (found fwd of the battery) to this pnl. the 20 amp is for the (now) defunct CLASS and the 40 was the MAIN. The schematic shows a 40 amp fuse is correct.

I found replaced the dash lights too, I used the 194 LED replacements bragged on in another post here on the forum. I found that#158 bulbs are the listed trade number for the lights in the dash. Are the 194 LED replacements my problem? I switched out dash with the one from the 85 and the lights on it don't come on either hence my question about the RESERVE LIGHT UNIT. Could the LEDs have blown the RLU? That's why I asked what it looks like and where it's located. #158 Spec: 14 Volt .24 Amp 3.36 Watt T3-1/4 Glass Wedge Base, 500 Hour #194 Spec: See [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ETCIO8/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#productDetails]Amazon.com: AGT 10x 194 168 2825 5-SMD White High Power LED Car Lights Bulb: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41w%2BqXiwqTL.@@AMEPARAM@@41w%2BqXiwqTL[/ame]

That was the value of the fuse I found in the main fuse holder. I guess I should have checked to see what the real value should be. I have some 30s, I'll change it right away! A 40 amp belongs in there IAW the schematic. Wheew!

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0252.jpgThe 83 looked a lot like this too. Wonderful, careful job as you can see many imaginative ways to connect a fuse and not spend any money. Fuse box as a insulator or what the hell just use BUTT connectors!

My fuse pnl upgrade from the top http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0251.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0254.jpg My fuse pnl upgrade. I know the top fuse (access. is supposed to be 10 amps. Nothing is connected to it currently

I think I got an intermittent ground. I checked the fuses last night and this am and found them good, replaced the CMS with the one from the 85 and no joy. Checked the fuses again and found accessories (the cig lighter only) was blown (disconnected now) and the Tail was blown, replaced them, blew the tail 3 more times then the dash lights AND the CMS started working. The CMS is still working (I tested the original one, it now works too) but no dash lights yet. The weirdness is why I think I have a bad ground. I read about a bad ground here in the forums, traced out the black wire he mentioned (I think) anyway there is a black wire coming from the right side electronics, (CB/CLASS (all disconnected))that's connected to the battery, without removing the right side top of the cowling that's all I see. In the aforementioned post the guy said there was a black gnd from the "METER" (dash) that he traced out to a grounding point adjacent to the battery...ideas? Where is (and what does it look like) the Reserve Lighting Unit?

Nothing in the computer comes on. The book says (on page 7-39): "Don't connect extra electrical accessories to the Computer Monitoring System circuit (tail light, headlight etc.)." Well who would have thought lighting would make a difference? All my fuses (located in the main panel)are good. I found 4 in-line fuses behind the headlight (in those factory cheapie in-line holders; is there a way to ID them specifically? I'd like to move them to a second panel that's more accessible.) that all test good. I un-plugged and re-plugged all the plugs behind the headlight in case there was some corrosion or other reason they may have become disconnected. The Dash lights come on, apparently when I re-assembled the head light sw2itch I got the copper contact in upside down as the headlight w/n work properly. The high beam would work, the low beam was really dim, and the high beam indicator light stayed on regardless of switch position. I rotated the copper plate in the low/hi beam switch and it performed correctly. I have disconnected the added lights from the running light circuit. I found a circuit added by a PO that ran from a large tan (in the FRONT running light circuit) wire behind the head light to the added lights in the read. I removed that wondering why you would tap into that circuit when there is a running light in the back to use. I guess I know why now. I have the '85 parts bike. I will swap the CMS out and see what happens.

Who would have ever guessed that connecting 8 194 bulbs in parallel to the running lights would affect the comp. monitor? In school they said so long as what you are adding in parallel have the same electrical load the source sees no additional load; or am I mis-quoting? Why would anyone connect the computer to the lights? When I was reading the trouble shooting chart it says "don't connect lights to the lighting system as it will affect the comp monitor system." OK the monitor is not working... is it shot? do I have to get another one? If I can't connect extra lights to the system how are all the other ventures I have seen with extra lighting. I can move the extra lights to the accessories terminal at the top of the fuse panel. I also have an additional available fused circuit in my fuse panel.

Since I cleaned my l/h switch I have had notyhing but trouble, the horn switch works but when plugged into the harness I still got zip. I am not peeling the harness apart to get to the wires and see where the break is. I will run a new circuit and see what happens. How can something so simple be so hard to troubleshoot or fix?

Well I figured that spring had something to do with completing the circuit; but so far I'm confused as well. Switches complete a circuit; in vehicles they complete to ground; hot is coming in from the accessory, the switch sends it to ground (I think) Just looking at the switch... the spring contacts the copper plate at the large end, the small end of the spring goes around the OD of the terminal of the contact on the button. The SPRING completes the circuit correct? The helps by why won't my horn work AAAARRGGGG!!!! OK I get how it works...both wires show cont. to ground that tells me the springs is touching the copper plate and the hot terminal IE it's shorted out. If that's true how come no fuses are blown, no smoke, no fire, NO HORN? Because down the line there is a break in the circuit. OR the wire is full of mold it won't carry any current. When I put the VOM on both wires and hit the button I get squat on both switches...though the wires individually test good and that tells me the spring is at fault... Doug

I went through the tutorial on L/H Switch cleaning. All switches but the horn worked. I do not understand how the horn switch works. I have the '83 (the one I'm working on) and the 85 parts bike, both have the same horn switch; (btw neither switch is as pictured in the tutorial) the 85 has the choke mounted under the switch like in the tutorial and the 83.5 has the handlebar twister thing) but again INSIDE both are identical to each other but different than the one in the tutorial. The horn button has a hinge pin on the fwd end and a contact on the opposite the hinge. When pressed this contact hits a isolated contactor (the isolated contact has a pink wire soldered to it) that's mounted on but electrically isolated from a piece of copper. This piece of copper has a brown wire soldered to it. NOTE: there is no wire (and there never was a wire) connected to the contact found inserted into the red horn button. So when you push the red horn button the contact in the red button (the return spring is found around the this contact) touches the contact with the pink wire (that's isolated from the copper piece that has the brown wire is soldered to it. NOTHING HAPPENS! THERE IS NO CIRCUIT. Am I missing the same piece from 2 bikes? I find that hard to beleive.

My 83.5 has a switch that's a little different; my switch has the rotator choke and not the lever action you describe. my choke goes around the handle bar... I know they should be simular but a guide for this style would be GREAT too. Do you have one you could post or send to me please? Also my choke cable seems to have some slop (too long) in it; the sheath (cover) moves away from the switch housing when opening the choke. I tired to see if there was an adjusting turnbuckle(?) on the carbs but the cable leads to the center of the carbs and is difficult to see with these *&^%^$#@ bi-focals. I have 2 large PLASTIC disks 1 looks like a big washer, I am pretty sure it goes between the handlebar grip and the switch, the other has 4 notches on the inner annulus (circle) I have NO idea where this goes. Got some wisdom to dispense?

The Wix number is 24933. You'll find Wix makes filters under names.... check www.rockauto.com

I have bought Dunlop tires (on my first Venture) and the Commander 2s I have on my Road Star. I really like the Commanders, but then I don't have much exp. with tires. I never had a BAD tire so I really am a blank slate on tires.

Yeah; it's on Amazon: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Changing-Changer-Machine-Portable/dp/B004MC43CI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1399880605&sr=8-3&keywords=motorcycle+tire+changer]Amazon.com: Motorcycle Tire Changing Changer Change Stand Machine Tool Portable Offroad MX: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31%2BueqyrT7L.@@AMEPARAM@@31%2BueqyrT7L[/ame]

I bought Bridgestone Spitfire S11R Sport/Touring Front & Rear Motorcycle Tires, got a good price on Amazon on the rear and ditto for a front tire from some one on Amazon. Got free shipping on all. I also bought that BLACK tire changer that is about table height that I will have to secure to a pallet to use. Lucky I have one! Thanks all for your input.

A WIRE or a HOSE? Wire carry electricity, hoses carry fluids or gasses...I'm confused.

A hose?

I need a tire recommendation for my XVZ12DKC2. It's an 83.5 but Yamaha carries that model number in the 1984 year group. I live in the Pacific North West (US) and we get lots of rain and I ride everyday unless there is ice or snow on the ground.I want everything; good wear, great performance and the same brand front and rear. The book says she wears a 120/90-18L (front) I don't know what the "L" means. and a 140-90-16 in the back. I'd like to buy them as a set. Thanks.

Clutch is EASY. Get the Yamaha manual for the torque numbers and search this web site in the tech library or www.venturers.org in their tech library. You'll have to join them to see it I think. GET a gasket; the p/n for a 84 is 3JP-15451-01-00, check Boats.net. I would replace the springs Get some "Yamabond #4" to dress the gasket. I used regular automotive gasket goo and had no problems but the forum wisdom says Yamabond #4 I believe; available @ the local Yamaha dealer. To get the case screws loose you will need a screw driver that you hit with a hammer, it has a twisting action when it's hit. I call it a "torque screwdriver" probably at a auto parts store. You want to use it when you tighten the case too. Read the instructions. Having the bike on the side stand negates havening to drain the oil because the oil will flow over to the other side of the bike. There are several screws/bolts to remove once the case is off, clutch springs 6 I think. PAY ATTENTION to how the disks are arranged! There are notches on the outside of the disk that need to be lined up a certain way. There are links to videos posted on the forum sites that show Yamaha training films that explain this. You don't HAVE to change the INNER disks that are located BEHIND a VERY this wire (I'm told; I changed mine.) That wire is not SUPPOSED to be reused. but most reuse it. My dealer didn't have one in stock even though it's used on MANY Yamaha engines; go figure. The 2 forums (this and www.venturers.org) are worth the dues, they really are so join up and solutions to all your issues can be found.

As you know the worth of anything is determined by the market; in other words any item is worth no more than what the market (buyers) is willing to pay for it. EBay has a function where you can see what an item finally sells for. I Think it might be an average of several sales of that or like items. I don't know how to find it but I'm sure someone here can tell you how to find/use it.

Hi Gary! I'm looking for the shifter bearings, where the shifter lever connects to the adjustable (slider) mount. The other bushing you're talking about is not the one I'm talking about So the bushing has an ID of 10mm and an OD of 14mm correct? The length I can fix with a saw if the stock is longer than needed.

Watch EBay, they are listed there from time to time.

IT happens....