dna9656

I have seen the side marker reflectors/lights on ebay for $50.00for Original used ones. Here are some LED lights in amber and yellow. I'm just confused as to how many are being offered. Some pics show 2 markes when on;y one is actually being offered. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=Orange+Red+LED+Motocycle+Reflector+Brake+Tail+Rear+Fog+Light+Shadow+For+Honda+Suzuki+1P&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XOrange++LED+Motocycle+Reflector+Brake+Tail+Rear+Fog+Light+Shadow+For+Honda+Suzu&_nkw=Orange++LED+Motocycle+Reflector+Brake+Tail+Rear+Fog+Light+Shadow+For+Honda+Suzuki+1P&_sacat=0

That would explain the no power reading in the on position. Give Pete the BIG CEE-GAR!!!

Y'all waz right! It's fromt the right side fork tube found laying on the left side front of the engine., Go figure...

That a guess or are you certain? This is a test.....

See photo: The large Black in line fuse holder. has 2 heavy red wires serving the fuse, 2 red and white(?) wires on the other side of the plug. What does it serve and where do the lighter gauge wires go to? http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0253.jpg

Fin? I had the windshield, l/h running/blinker, dash (meter) out and I have been working on both sides of the engine today. Those large angles pieces that join to a third member under the radiator are not on the bike.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0262.jpg I found THIS on the left side forward corner of the engine, just forward of the stator housing on top. It has a number I ran at www.boats.com but nothing came up. Any Ideas? The number is : 13001-24027 and 180 degrees from this number is another number: "17". http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0264.jpg

I took an o ring to NAPA, they measured it at 2 mm thick, Dingy says it's 45mm in Dia. He didn't say if that's ID or OD. NOBODY (except the STEALER They are getting $4.99 per) in this town has a o ring like that; not in Bremerton or Tacoma. So I called Granger, they got BUNA (Type of rubber has good resistance to gasoline) Cord Stock in 2 mm. you slice off the length you need and superglue it together. You get 10 feet for $3.08. That's a lot of manifold gaskets. By the calculator that's 22.2519685" for a set of 4 o rings or about 5 SETS of o rings for the carburetors. All for $3.08. BTW I think my vacuum leak wasn't in the o rings, it was in the ALMOST loose rubber vacuum caps on the disabled YICS system. They aren't loose anymore and I get no more increase in rpm when I spray carb cleaner around the manifolds; top or bottom. I still think the cord stock for O rings is worth looking into. Check out this site: http://www.grainger.com/images/catalog/405/2990.pdf?concat=true&baseURL=http://www.grainger.com/components/catalog

Spark plug gap tester? Huh? Never heard of one.

Well I donno, I was going to run a 4 way splitter off the fuel pump and stick a hose in each manifold...

Carb sets are pretty plentiful on ebay here in the states, if you are willing to pay the shipping I don't know why some one wouldn't ship them to you.

Can anyone give me a spec on the o rings used between the intake manifold and the head?

Can The carbs on a 85 be used on a 84?

I saw on Ebay a VW (car) carb and manifold setup to replace the 4 carbs we now use. Any thoughts on this?

Anyone got a source for carb overhaul (rebuild) kits? I have a set of 1985 carbs, are they compatible with my 83.5? Is so I'd like to overhaul THEM and install them on the 83, keeping downtime at a minimum.

Yep thick is pretty binding. I remember a speedo shop in San Francisco had a speedo lube apparently JUST FOR speedo.s It was RED grease, it looked a lot like the grease the USAF uses to lube the flight control bearings etc.

When you replace those #158 bulbs in the Meter (dash) with whatever put just a little silicone grease on the black inserts that hold the bulbs; the bulbs well slide in a lot easier and will pull out that way as well but still hold in place. Also don't forget about that little ear between the wiress that service the bulb you're supposed to pull on the ear and not the wires! I used a long pair of needle nose pliers. You can alsop put some of that grease on the 4 grommets used in mounting the meter, any squeaks will go away and it helps slow down the oxidation of the rubber.

I see we can order cables in any length, can we get stainless steel cable wire?

Thanks Randy! When I had the wheel off last night I made sure there was grease in there, (the moly lithium); could I have (to line up the nut and hole for the cotter key)over tightened the axle and some how put a bind on the speedo drive? I don't think so but...the cable spins easily with my fingers, it shows on the speedo gauge needle (I play guitar... strong fingers) movement so I'm included to consider something in the speedo drive... So what do I use to lube the speedo cable, the moly lithium? I have multi purpose grease; it's a little thicker-er than the moly.

I added a chrome front fender bumper looking thing. it's just bling but looks cool. I wired the marker lights on it to the same lg brown wire the front marker lights are connected to. On a test ride today I heard a clink, clink; pulled over and noticed I didn't screw in the speedo cable after re-installing the wheel IAW the book. When I installed the wheel I got the torque stopper in place, tightened the axle nut to 34 (32) ft lbs. and turned the castellated nut tight till the cotter key hole lined up with the castellated nut. Inserted the nut, tightened the pinch bolts to what ever the spec was. Now the problem: the speedo acts as if the WD-40 I sprayed in there gummed up in the speedo cable sleeve so bad that the speedo is slow to indicate speed and is actually NOT on zero for a sec or 2 after the bike has stopped. The speedo isn't keeping pace with the speed of the bike. It's like the cable was twisting tighter (faster than the speed indicator will so there is a delay in indication. It's like it wasn't a metallic cable but a rope that had to get just so tight then unwind really fast and then the needle would move. Did I over tighten the axle lining up the cotter key hole? I don't think so. I am VERY sure I got the speedo drive in correctly, the assembly lays as it should on the hub of the wheel and the torque stopper is in place. I'm going to the shop and pull the cable and sheath, clean them with paint thinner and re-lube with chain lube. The can says it's goof for ALL cables...I remember something about speedos needing a specific lube...Ideas?

Give guidance oh Guru and I shall comply...

Apparently I wasn't paying attention....when I first put the LEDs in. But why did the Computer monitor not work? I donno. I connected the running lights to that large brown wire in the front, I do believe it's pat of the front running lights. The bike is all back together now, the CM works, the running lights work but still no horn.

Prairiehammer and Niel86 YOU are the MAN!!! All the bulbs work now! Duh LE DIODES Diodes are what make solid state battery isolaters work OF COURSE the are polarity sensitive.

Hell they ALL worked, (I think) so I got them ALL in there correctly the first time? Baloney. BRB!!!!

Yes I will do that next while I await more guidance form the Oracle VENTURERIDERS...