dna9656

It rained last night, at first not enough to get the TCI wet and I have ridden in downpours recently without issue but things can change. It rained like a BIG DOG later but that was while I was waiting for Wifie to get home. While the bike is down I'll be moving the TCI as we have discussed and get that number off of it too!

With a siphon hose I filled and nearly filled 4 containers (two 1 gallon gas cans, one 1 gallon antifreeze bottle and one 5 quart oil jug) so I'm PRETTY SURE I got most of it. I re-filled at the local grocery's (Albertson's) store on the way home and put some dry gas (HEET) in it when I got her into the garage. That was Tuesday evening. I have since ridden the bike as described above. I have never heard of fuel filters turning squirrely like this because of water; HOWEVER I have no idea what the history of the current filter is. Shame on me for not changing it when I did the first oil change. I have a Yamaha (read $15.00 - $17.00?) fuel filter for the 1600 Road Star I have, it looks about the same as the one currently in the Venture, just a lot cleaner both outside and I'm sure INSIDE where it counts. Too bad the rate and pressure specs are CLASSIFIED by Yamaha. I figure any fuel filter that can supply an engine no smaller than the 1200 will do... Last night (while waiting for my wife to get home (3:30 am so I could go retrieve the Venture) I removed the pump and filter from the '85. So now I know how to do that, 2 bolts and some finagling and the pump is out and have a couple of plugs to plug the fuel lines (there was gas in the '85s tank of course). Now my problem with using a used fuel pump is that it's used....I like the one cited in the other thread, an airtex I think, it even looks like the Yamaha version. I just wish I had a spec on pressure and flow rate on the Yamaha version so I could get as close as possible on a new one. I found one on Amazon for $38.??. I think that's a killer price. I realize that my problem may not be in the pump, but I must assume the pump is 31 odd years old; I'm too old a soldier to believe I can rely on it as if it were a new one. I take it the outlet on the tank is on the low part of the tank, I have a spare I got when I bought a load of venture parts from a guy over in Tacoma. So I can figure that one out ok...but that is why I have been advised to remove the rear tire I believe.... Anyone have the pump and filter specs?

That's what I love about this forum! So many wise (o_d) people! I switched out the 2 suppression IGN. cables to NON-suppression, that was MONDAY. I don't think it's that though because of all the times it started just fine.... During the run-down on stalling the tach, well if it was acting weird I would have noticed but it did not. It has a back fire on cold start I think that may be new; peder didn't mention it when he synch'ed the carbs...Well I don't REMEMBER his mentioning it, it does have a plugged pilot circuit though. I am seriously considering dismantling the carbs and giving the parts a good soak in some B-12 carb cleaner. I have a wonderful air compressor to blow it all out. I have rebuilt a few Holly carbs, some GM corporate, Autolite and a couple of quadra-jets in my day. I'd like to find the replaceable parts (needle valve, seat, gaskets, O rings...before I do this. I'm hoping I don't need any diaphragms or slides...I will try (again) to get the DVD on carb overhaul. So far my post for this has been unproductive.

So does anyone know what the specs are on the Yamaha pump and filter? Yamaha is SO ON DRUGS! They want over $250.00 for this pump and of course some pie in the sky price for the filter...There is NO justification for the prices on parts for toys like M/Cs, Boats, tractors, snow mobiles and water craft. It's a disgrace.

There is a switch for the fan installed by a PO. It's hard to know when it's on as you go down the freeway, I though it would be nice (not nessesary but nice) to have a small LED in the dash come on when the switch is on. Can some one provide a parts list and a diagram to do this?

All plug wirers the same Beldon's metallic core 7mm. available at NAPA in bulk.

OK Tuesday I got a tank of gas at a local ARCO station. 6 miles down the road it stalls, sets for a while and starts, 3 miles (towards home) it stalls again, a little further down the road it stalls again, fellow co-worker and rider stops and we use his screwdriver to drain the bowls, he says it has a lot of water in the gas, ok. Load it on the trailer, siphon the gas out, re-fill elsewhere. Next day (Wed) Drive and from to work (50 odd miles round trip) no problems, next day (today) the trip TO work; no problems, going home I get about half way and it stalls, slowly looses power just like the last tank of H2O and gas. Pored about 1/4 a bottle of HEET in the tank, Wait 10 or so minutes and it starts, got to the nearest gas pump and filled it up. Now I travelled a total of 75 odd miles on the re-fill and when I put gas in it the pump stopped at 3.?? gallons, so not only does it stall the mileage really stinks. So I get maybe 2 miles down the road and it stalls again, wait ten minutes and I get to another gas station, I pull off and got a ride from a kind soul. That was about 5 miles from my house. I can hear the fuel pump clicking away every time I turn the key, it cycles (noise wise) just fine. I do not think this is water, I think it's a fuel filter, fuel pump or TCI How say you all? I'm got a fuel pump sitting on the parts bike (an 85) and a couple of new filters laying around. Is there a list of fuel lines, drains and their specs etc. on the forum? I await the wisdom of the forum.

I went to NAPA and got the bulk 7mm metallic core (non suppression) for $1.2 a foot. Another guy here paid $0.57 a foot. It slips right in the plastic tube (on my bike) and fits in the coil and sparkplug terminals just right.

I bought a tankful of water at ARCO today, got 1/4 the way to work and it crapped out. I got about 1/4 the way home and it crapped out again. I guess some fuel was still in a place where it could get burned. I got some 1 gallon jugs, my HF siphon squeezer, and got back to the bike on the freeway during rush hour of course. Got the water/gas out and some good gas in but the battery was too far gone. Plenty of biker guys pulled over and offered to help..thanks to all! I got it on the trailer, and got it home with a new tank of gas and got her started. I was cheching to see if I had spark on all cylinders when I found (via timing light) that the left front cylinder is firing at about twice the rate as the others are. What's up with that? I also learned that I have plenty of signal to the TCI vacuum sensor.

I have 2 Accell Ign. wires on my bike, the kind you make up your own set for your car....I see they are suppression type; back to the parts store... Thanks! It's been a while since I had to think of such things... AND I agree, there is a huge amount of tech knowledge here on the forum, great people, good times but it's frustrating to wait on responses. I just try to remember that everyone has a life and I'm not the center of them...dangit!

An "RR" is a rectifier/Regulator.... I didn't know that. I'm having similar issues with the head light indicator (the one on the "meter" (dash) not the big one behind the glass out front....I have LEDs in all positions in the "meter" and the head light indicator sometimes goes out at idle or flickers with rpm. Sometimes it's brightness changes drastically from bright to more than 1/2 as bright. Seems to me we could but a automotive 4 cylinder spark plug wire set and change out the ends. I have white crap on the resistors in the plugs on my ign. (plug) wires too. No one answered that question or I missed it. I think some 0000 steel wool would clean them nicely but it's the ENDS that have to be clean....

What are good fuel filter substitutes to use instated of the Yamaha filter$$$

So no overhaul/re-build kits....??? My bike is a XVZ12DKC2, you'll find that M/N in the 1984 Year model parts book but NOT in the 83 book. So I have a 83.5 so to speak.

Pretty scary when you find spare parts in a machine that can rotate as fast as the venture motor can...it could do a LOT of damage....I would count the alignment pins and compare the number of the pins Yamaha put in there...

Sounds like some junk is in the way or blocking at the entrance at the float. What a drag...

So do you have a complete parts list? This would be a GREAT help; working from a list instead of several posts/emails; maybe a diary of your complete adventure....

So I found some Yamaha passenger floor boards. One side is marked "A" and the other "Z". Is this left/right or right left? Will they fit my 83.5 (XVZ12DKC2) This model # is found only in the 84 parts catalog)? Are they spring loaded in the up position or do they have the ball and spring detent?

I haven't seen any references in the selling posts that indicate dim-ability or that it has a lower brightness than say "X"

I haven't found ONE (or 2) LED(s) in ONE color for a reasonable price. I was un-aware that LEDs advertised as suitable substitutes for dash lights would NOT be dimmable...Don't "most" if not all cars come with dimmable dash lights?

I installed the LEDs in the Dash (meter) and they do a good job of illuminating the dash except: They don't dim. The ones in the systems monitoring positions are presenting issues. The neutral light, Bright Head light monitor are really bright, the head light monitor light goes out when idling and it's brightness changes intermittently. Also the blinker indicators are LEDs and the monitor lights dim in sympathy with the flashing... I'm going to re-install the systems monitor lights (158s) and leave the LEDs for dash lighting in to see how that works.

I installed the 158/194 LEDs in my dash in all positions. Now the Headlight monitor goes out at low RPMs, sometimes it's brightness changes, the Neutral light is now blue, all the monitor lights are pretty bright. The dash lighting is OK BUT the dimmer doesn't work, I don't think these LEDs are dimmable....

I have a ultra sonic cleaner I use for jewelry, not sure it's big enough for the carb, www.sportsmansguide.com might have an affordable one. what kind of solvent should be used? Does anyone have any idea about the measurements for the O rings? Metric o rings are pretty scarce in the PAC NW. Granger sells 10ft. lengths you super glue together. A 2mm X 10' goes for $3.08. Seems wise to me to have the stuff ON HAND before you start

Isn't there a cleaner formulated to clean Circuit boards? I wonder if it would be a good idea to put some small "DO NOT EAT" bags of desiccant in there prior to closing it up. Obviously it ISN'T vapor proof and maybe can't be for cooling reasons.... Maybe the do not eat stuff could be secured to the 'lid' of the TCI so it doesn't contact the CB. That way there would be less chance of a fire?

Very Cool! Post some pics! I will when I get my lights!.

Are we sure the pump is PUMPING and not running in reverse? THAT'S what would happenn to me...