dna9656

Are you about to make a proposal or proposition? I'm looking for the panel that goes where the radio goes when you don't have a radio; also the panel that goes where the CLASS controller goes...

Some say the same about me....I don't know what one is supposed to do about numbers that aren't stamped on the jets...find an "expert" that has a calibrated eye ball that can tell you what size it is? Testing one jet after another is not my idea of a good time....

Well it's old, probably got green stuff growing in it as well Electronics go bad with age, usually the capacitors and diodes like in your TCI. Finding some one that knows how to fix solid state stuff is near impossible, you might try a stereo repair shop...Prob. cost $100.00 to set it on the bench... I have 2 radio heads I'm not going to use because with Wi-Fi technology you can carry your music player your pocket, or find one that's mounted on the bike. If you have a phone you can probably find a plug in radio accessory so it can be a radio too or it may have that technology in it already, plus Wi-Fi ready and Wi-Fi equipped helmets are available. I get having everything working like it was brand new, that's cool; but only you can figure out what's best for you.

That's a BIG 10-4 good buddy! Even if they ARE there have fun reading them! I got 4 out of the carb, (1985 model DN) I see there are 8 jests; I don't see how the other 4 come out, do they NOT come out?

I found the jet sizes in the PARTS catalog; but only the specs in the SERVICE manual as stated in my prev. post. You better have very young eyes looking at those numbers on the jets....

A spinning un-powered propeller has more drag than a feathered propeller. An un-feathered propeller is flat relative to the air stream, you want non-working props feathered (rotated 180 degrees so it's parallel to the air stream) so they induce less drag on the air frame. If we could do that on our bikes MORE air would flow MORE freely through the radiator and that my friends would give you a cooler engine. You folks in higher temperature zones need to be sure you are running the right oil as well as a good mix of coolant.

No brag; just facts here ma'am. Pete's bike is amazing!

In the Service Manual I see a list for the XVZ12TK model, but no other M/N s are shown, does this list cover ALL XVZ12s? I have a XVZ12DKC2. I found a vendor in Cleveland that says he has all the jets I need (then why do I have to open the carb to get the numbers for him?) but I have to check the numbers before he can send me the "right" ones....

He means there is a RESISTOR you can put in the circuit to fix this. After chasing bubbles for a week this is my exp. Don't DRAIN the brakes/or clutch and refill to bleed. This isn't a car and won't bleed exactly like a car does. Remove SOME fluid and using FRESH bake fluid flush many times keeping the reservoir full as is reasonable, also re-install the res cap before pumping the brake handle of you'll have brake fluid all over the bike. Getting air out of these systems (esp. the front brake) is tedious. Check out the tech library for tips on bleeding. You may want to bite the bullet and rebuild the brake calipers, master cylinders and the clutch system. On my bike the masters were both fine but the calipers were full of gunky, somewhat gooy, somewhat solidified brake fluid and some rust. 0000 Steel wool took care of the rust on the caliper piston. If you have a source of compressed air it will be big help. If you never overhauled a brake caliper before you know what's involved here, if not no worries; it's pretty straight forward. There are links here to download the manual, you can also get it on EBay. I bought a "Tech Spark" manual on EBay, you download it and it's (IMHO) better than the factory manual in that it's more easily searched AND has a how to do things on motor cycles in general section. This manual is STILL the FSM (Factory Service Manual) jst with some extra touches. You'll find the FSM is big on telling you WHAT has to be done but lacking on the HOW it's done. This is Yamaha supporting it's dealers, the mechs there get training from Yamaha and have videos too. Many of these videos are available here and at Youtube. BTW Youtube has a ton of Venture stuff. I started out in mini bikes and small dirt bikes, my first REAL bike was a Yamaha XS 750 Triple, with a drive shaft and it had an electric starter AND a kick start! Only bike I ever saw that had both but I'm reasonably sure it wasn't the only one so equipped. I saw my first VR in 96, bought it and loved it, some guy took a left turn in front of me and totaled my beautiful VR and broke my arm so bad they rebuilt it using spare parts from my hip. I didn't have her long enough to learn much, just a couple of oil changes, brake pads, windshield, and the best riding experience I ever had. I have 2 VRs, the 83.5 it's XVZ12DKC2, the parts for it are in the '84 model year catalog (go figure) and my almost daily rider. The 85 is the #4 bike off the line with the 2nd gear issue you heard about with the official factory fix. She in pretty rough shape. When I took the oil filter off I found a huge weld across the surface that is under the filter proper from one side of the O ring surface to the other. This what happens when you buy a bike in the dark, I also found a SKID PLATE under the engine. It must be 1 HUGE DUDE that uses a 1200CC, 750 odd pound touring bike to go off roading. But I have a transmission with the fix, LOTS of spare parts, and a test bed to fit mods to then install on my 83.5. So be careful learning to handle her, she's top heavy and WILL fall over REAL easy if you stop in a turn, have short legs (like me), or try to push her around the shop with the side stand up. Oh and speaking of the side stand; get yourself down there and make sure the nut and bolt on the side stand are serviceable (tightened to spec, not cracked, or otherwise FUBAR) also check the "ear" the side stand is bolted to. Also after a Thorough washing (a good washing can take ALL DAY) check your frame under the engine all the way back, some frames were thin and buckled. Parts: parts are available from all over the Internet. Amazon, EBay, and other vendors you'll learn about here on this forum and on www.venturers.org. Please patronize the sites that recognize our forums, sometimes you get a nice discount! Some folks on the forum sell parts too! Long winded ain't I?

Well I finally get to help one of the guys that helps so many others! Go to Ebay type in "Red LED Motocycle ATV Reflector Brake Tail Rear Fog Light " http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjIwWDYyMA==/z/VVIAAOxy4~BSO7HB/$T2eC16J,!yQFIjWItk3OBSO7H!j7G!~~60_14.JPG Have one to sell? Sell it yourself Details about Red LED Motocycle ATV Reflector Brake Tail Rear Fog Light Change the color to "amber" or "orange" for yellow lights. You'll have to file off just a touch on the edges so they will fit just right. I used my bench grinder to accomplish this. I got a few defective lights but the vendor has replaced all. So when you install this thing know that the Black wire is Gnd., the red wire is full brightness and the blue is half, so you can wire it using the blue wire for a running light and the red as a brake light or turn signal. Also I would put some RTV on the back where the wires come out to keep water out. The light won't fit the chrome shell on the saddle bags but with a little filing it will fit very nicely with out the chrome bezel. Oh yeah, if you use them on the saddle bags be sure to RTV the back to keep water out of the saddle bag.

So jets have a number on them? Car carbs usually do or you get a drill bit and find the closet fit correct? Then after you figure that out you go on the Internet looking for jets for Mikuni carbs?

So is there a one place I can go for a carb rebuild kit for my 83.5 XVZ12DKC2. I'm also looking for kits for my 85 XVZ12DN. If there's not 1 place could you post the places I have to go?

IMHE many re-sellers on E Bay say they have (insert name of part here) that fits or came off a 1st or 2nd Gen Venture. I don't know how many of these re-sellers I have written a FYI that the part they are selling ISN'T from what ever year they are specifying but from another. Starters for example; as we all know there is a part number (MFR's not Yamaha's) on each one. there are 4 screws on one and spot welds on the other. Side panels; they all look the same but I understand that panels from 1st gens don't fit 2nd Gens. I have a 83.5 XVZ12DKC2 and I have a XVZ12DC (parts queen) and the larger travel truck mounting rack and trunk and the side bags fit the 83.5 just fine. Here is the 85 in better days: http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/01717_fMqDWa4j1Dp_600x450.jpg The 83.5 today (more or less) with the travel truck and saddle bags from the 85. Please note the LED radiator marker lights, the trailer hitch and lights (they are LEDS too) the front fairing bling is illuminated with an LED too. I just installed RED LED markers on the aft side of the saddlebags too but they are not in place yet in this picture. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0278.jpg

I don't know what you're referring to.

No the car does not spend much time idling. You can see in the pictures exactly what I see, do you see red? I do not; I see black crap carbon. In the'70s GM said carbon build up in the top of the cylinders was caused by the polymer that made 10W30 oil 10W30. So they recommended 10w40. I wonder. I'm pulling the heads; it's the only way I can have piece of mind.

Mobile 1 synthetic motor oil? Mobil makes a synthetic gear lube? I know Amsoil does...anyone have exp. with Amsoil gear lube in these bikes?

Filling the cylinders with Seafoam with the engine at BTDC would be wasteful (and expensive as this is a 6 cylinder motor; I think that would be more than 1 can per) as the cylinder walls do not have carbon build up only the piston tops and the head surface above the pistons. Soaking them may or may not work as the Seafoam would leak past the rings, if I could get an effective nylon brush in there to make some Seafoam and carbon soup that would be effective but you still got to get it out. It's very hard to get anything to bend or flex into the cylinder. I need a brush that would lay across the radius of the piston and rotate it like a wiper, but since the spark plug is NOT located above the center of the cylinder but closer to the intake valves that's a toughie too. The spark plug hole is at the bottom of a 6" tube that passes through the valve cover like a 426. I know the soupie crud would blow out when I start the engine but a lot has to happen that requires the motoring over of the engine (setting the timing belt) before I get to the start it up stage so I'm pulling the head. Oh and another little juicy thing happened. You know those socket extensions with the little lock on the end where the socket goes on? the lock is just like the one on your better ratchets...I bought a set at Wal-Mart made by Bostitch the stapler company...(who knows who in China REALLY made them) well the little button that releases the ball in one of the extensions is missing; when did I notice this? Right after I used the extension above and on the heads...so guess where that ball COULD be? Another reason I have to pull at least the front head...

Brian; Good thoughts; let me tell you something else I have learned about interference engines: You can bring the piston up really close to the head (hence the interference issue) so if the piston is brought up high enough (again that's not an issue with this type engine) the valve won't fall into the cylinder; and if it did what would it hurt; the heads are coming off anyway. While the carbon that is the cylinder(s) could be stuck to the head all the previous rotating of the engine to check the timing operated all the valves so this carbon that might be on the valves has long ago fallen to the top of the cylinder(s). Some representative pics of the piston tops. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/53B5345F.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/53B533F0.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/53B5340F.jpg

I had a bad experience with the whole 2 brush starter mod. My starter worked fine, (2 brush) I never had the hot start problem but I do not like surprises like hard/no start situations in my driveway much less away from home so I pulled the starter, I may have had the t-stat piping out of the way I don't remember now but I did not remove any exhaust pipes. I had the post that shows how to do the ground mod on my computer out in my shop. I have my mother-in law's 42" Flat screen TV she left when she moved to Texas as my monitor so seeing things is CLEARLY (pun intended) not a problem. I did the 2 wire thing with the butt connectors just like the pics show. Re-assembled. Now the VOM readings show a bad starter. I connected it to a spare battery I have, no spin. I had the 4 brush starter I bought through E-bay already installed so the starter's no longer being any good really didn't impact my riding. I'm not trying to stir the pot, Lord knows my best friends are right here on this forum, I trust the lot of you more than those pirates at the dealer, so this post is just a word of caution; I don't know WHAT I did but I did it and the starter is F(ouled)UBAR so far as I know. About the same time I had a few other electrical problems I probably brought on myself. I didn't know that turning the Ign. key fully left turned on the parking lights on the '83 Venture. I never heard of PARKING lights on a motorcycle. I guess I should have read the owner's manual the PO gave me. The battery was dead, 26 miles from home, let's say it's very hard to get a vehicle rescues truck where I work, esp. at midnight. Needless to say I caught a taxi home ($$$) and came back with my trusty trailer the next day. I also thought I had enough gas to get to the station one night not long ago; here's the wisdom I got from that fiasco: when the gauge is low (little red light or not) go get some gas.

Well wasted anther day of vacation working on the POS yesterday, got little accomplished except to learn larger wrench sizes are extremely hard to find AND pay for. My neighbor across the road came over and lent some much needed moral support and ideas. We tried blowing the crap out with my little 12 gallon Craftsman Compressor, no joy. so then we went to a tool store and found them closed. We were going to take the pulleys off the cam and pull the heads. A good job of cleaning then could be accomplished. I replaced the plumbing on my REAL compressor, a Campbell/Hausefiled 4 cylinder, 80 gallon, 125 PSI @ 12 CFM (how manly!) monster so we tried THAT but I need to open the intake valves more so my plan it as follows; Got some small rubber grommets, borrow a valve spring compressor tool at the local A/P store, take the vale springs off the intake valves (I have 2 per) one cylinder at a time and make sure the piston isn't too far down JUST IN CASE the valve falls, it won't fall completely into the cylinder. Using the compression tester hose with the Schrader valve removed, sock some air in there and see what blows out the intake valves. Maybe the valves will be open enough I can stir things up in the cylinder enough to get them airborne and out of the cylinder... Your thoughts?

My valve spring compressor doesn't work on this small motor, it works on Chevys and they are further apart than GM valves. UPDATE: got a loaner tool from the A/P store, am headed out (just out of curiosity mainly; I'm still pulling the heads) to see if I can do this.

I am VERY selective about the tools I get at Harbor freight. I recommend everybody be VERY selective. They have serviceable stuff and they have CRAP too.

I want NOTHING to do with this disaster ever again. Figure this; I'm old school Detroit iron. This engine is new school Japanese stuff. Since Japanese cars get re-engine every 30k miles how much attention do you figure the sadists (engineers) who design these instruments of torture put into the concept of reparability? You have to remove a 8" and a 10" bolt to get the gears off the end of the cam before the head can be removed. You know who carries a 36mm wrench or crow foot? Me either, Nobody. You got to order it. Gaskets, if you buy the head gaskets locally you got to buy the complete set, That's $300.00. Rockauto.com has them for 27 to 40 $$$ each. You almost have to buy new head bolts because they didn't use good bolts, they are torque to yield (that's read BREAK or STRETCH); in contrast chevy head blots can be re-used in standard service, (NOT street racing) indefinably so far as I know. I'm not going to chance using the old bolts, have them FAIL and get to dis-assemble this thing all over again.. New gaskets, new this, new that...So no the valves were fine before this mess they will be fine after. I have no desire to have spend MORE money on gas because I upped the compression ratio. My wife and I are in our 50s, 6 speed trans and the stock speed are fast enough to get to work, the grocery store ,or church, see our friends or go out for an evening. Speed just attracts attention of the cops. I have no desire to line the States pockets with my bread.

I did a thorough inspection this morning with the cam, rotated the engine back and forth (pistons up and down) and learned to rotate the camera in the cylinder so it turned the lens on the axis of the cylinder (more or less) so I could see the edges as well as the center of the piston. Lots of CARBON (I think but what's NORMAL?); LOTS is more than you have seen in other engines you have been in. Well I have been in Briggs and Stratton, Pioneer, Ford, Buick, and Chevy (not a lot of difference there) engines and I haven't seen this much carbon before so off come the heads... the first one will be off in 8 bolts...the front one of course.

Pending further camera work through he spark plug hole of the other cylinders that could be involved I am pulling the heads this weekend, if it's just carbon, FINE. I'll clean the piston tops and the combustion chambers of the heads, install the new gaskets and new head bolts, install the GD timing belt and re-assemble.