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dna9656

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Everything posted by dna9656

  1. dna9656
    Well Niel I think you have found EXACTLY what's happening! So when ordering your LEDs you need to call and ask if they will work on older vehicles OR ask if they have a internal diode. I'm betting on the outfits that are more (or) FULLY professional in their product knowlegde for these folks will KNOW what's going on. It seems Jeff paid the big bucks and go the LEDs that work on our bikes. So Jeff what's that site again?
  2. dna9656
    I get what you're saying Jeff; seems to me if they want to sell their product(s) here meeting standards would be important; LEDs aren't the only automotive lighting products made there that are used in the West, LOTS of incandescent bulbs are made there as well; but yet again they aren't subject to the vagaies LEDs seems to be.
  3. dna9656
    Really cheap prices; are they any good? Any one have EXP. with these?
  4. dna9656
    I will try this weekend, wouldn't a 1157 based light be made to a ASE standard?
  5. dna9656
    I think it's possible too but I have used 3 different LEDs in this socket and they all don't perform as they should. I even added solder to the terminals on the bottom of the LED to make it larger, no joy.
  6. dna9656
    I mentioned that I did change out the LED Tail/brake light. It does the same freaky thing the others do. It works back there in the tail light just like it's supposed to though.
  7. dna9656
    I used desiccant from inside boxes that contain merchandise; you know that stuff they don't want you to eat? "DO NOT EAT" on those little envelopes... everytime I see one I have an irresistible urge to eat one....you can get desiccant at Wal-Mart or other like stores....
  8. dna9656
    Well I know ground is ground is ground except when it isn't....
  9. dna9656
    The LEDs I bought are amber...and your right Buyer beware on Ebay when purchasing LEDs! I bought a second pair at the auto parts store the brand name is jamstrait or JamStrait
  10. dna9656
    The package doesn't mention that the LEDs have their own resistor, the package does mention that you may need "equalizers" I'm sure this is a reference to a load resistor. Ground is ground is ground. Where its grounded is less important than HOW (clean and tight) it's grounded so long as the ground is sound... hey that rhymes! Thanks for your input!!!
  11. dna9656
    An 1156 won't go into ta 1157 socket but GOOD THOUGHT!!!! the lugs on the side of a 1157 are offset from each other, an 1156 are parallel and in the same plane.
  12. dna9656
    The light does work indicating the ground is good, but I think there is some kind of loop some place, it makes me nuts; as I have explained prev. the terminals in the socket both check good for power; the one is steady and the other flashes until you put the LED in the socket. The original (Ebay) LEDs flash but no running light, the Store bought ones don't flash unless you disconnect the running light power, THEN they flash, this seems like a bad ground someplace.... I will give that a try but after that I'm going to gut the whole (additional) running light circuit and put in an entirely NEW (additional) running light system; ALL running lights will get power from their respective sides from the FRONT running lights, the left side will power from the left front and the right side from the right front running light. I think some of the existing system may be tapping in to the tail light. Somewhere on this site I read that is a BOZO No -No. My plan is to power the trailer hitch and saddle bag LEDs along with the engine side cover and fender running lights right off the wire that goes to the 1157s and use ONE ground that is used by the respective left or right side.
  13. dna9656
    New info: I bought some LEDs at the auto parts store. Now with this LED I get no blinker unless the running light side is disconnected and NO light (running) if it is connected. Seems to me I have some kind of feed back/or short out going on. I have running lights on the front sides, rear sides and on the trailer hitch. The read running lights are spliced into the circuit up front (I think) so apparently I need to go through the circuit. Can anyone provide me with a diagram of where I should do all this connecting? I have the LED marker lights (shaped like the original reflectors) on the saddle bags and the side guards on the engine and on the bling out on the fender. Disregard the rear amber running lights (in the directional/blinker housings) they are no longer functional, they were 1157s they are back to 1156 lights. See photo:
  14. dna9656
    The running light side comes on when hot-wired. I Swapped out the 1157s I have in the rear tail/brake application and the thing worked like it's supposed to. So it must be the LEDs have the terminals on the bottom of the LED improperly clocked.
  15. dna9656
    Well the #1157 is inherently polarized with it's bayonet lugs, it's going in the socket one way, so because the blinker side works that means the base is (to enough of a degree that the blinker can operate) of the LED is correct more or less. I will do a polarity check (to see if the diode in the LED is properly polarized) when I go out there to swap out the bulbs as mentioned before. Remember that diodes allow power to flow in ONE direction only, those LEDs used as dash lights, running lights, some times 3rd brake lights, (190, 186, etc) can be installed with the polarity 180 degrees out, they won't work, so rotate the bulb 180 degrees and try again.
  16. dna9656
    As near as I can tell it HAS to be the LEDs. I have a "gut kit" for the socket of a dual contact (1157 style) socket. It consists of a base plate 2 wires (they pass through the base plate and are soldered to the 2 terminals in the terminal base that is keyed to fit in the socket ONE WAY for polarity purposes), a spring (pushes the terminals UP towards the locked in bulb), and the terminal base (the non-conductive disc you see when looking into a 1157 style socket. I have held this thing to the bottom of the 1157 LED; visually ensuring terminal contact on both terminals on the bottom of the LED at all times while grounding the LED with a alligator clip, wire, and another alligator clip to the ground in the lighting circuit. The BLINKER side of the LED works, the running light side DOES NOT work, swap out the LED with a REGULAR bulb and it all works. Now what I have not done is connect a LED to the 1156 in the back, as it is a blinker only bulb I have 2 1157s in the center tail light for running and brake light. So it should not be a player... So I would think that there is something wrong with the LED but 4 (same brand same supplier) LEDs? Unlikely yet possible. Is there something wrong with my wiring on the bike? It all works with regular bulbs, all checks out with a test light. Near as I can tell the terminals on the LED must be slightly out of the proper clocking position, it's close enough for the blinker to work but out of position just enough that the running lights don't work. BTW the rear 1156 LED does NOT have the resistor, it's flashing just like it's supposed to as the regular bulb does with the LED and resistor installed or with the regular bulb (1157). I'm going to swap out the bake/running lights in the center rear with these blinker/running lights in the front and see what happens, they are working, they are a different MFR too. Will advise.
  17. dna9656
    The resistor is connected to the blinker lead then the other end of the resistor is connected to ground.
  18. dna9656
    The BLINKER (on which the resistor is connected)_ is 3 ohm/ 50 watt. The BLINKER is NOT the problem; it's working. The running light is not working. So the resistor is NOT the issue. The issue is NO RUNNING light even though current is there.
  19. dna9656
    I have 1157 LED: this is what I'm doing: I have ONE R (3 ohm, 50 watt) between the blinker lead and ground. No difference if 1156 LED or 1156 regular bulb is installed in back. There is only ONE resistor installed on the FRONT 1157, there is no resistor installed in the rear on the 1156. https://www.google.com/search?q=diagram+to+connect+resistor+for+1157+LED&tbm=isch&imgil=ulAqg8gYE7ZKfM%253A%253BuKS77pZ82GRMUM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.plasmaled.com%25252Finstructionsled.htm&source=iu&pf=m&fir=ulAqg8gYE7ZKfM%253A%252CuKS77pZ82GRMUM%252C_&usg=__J_Z0DwZATRdcwAUmaIPHkpUu07k%3D&biw=1280&bih=561&dpr=1.5&ved=0CCsQyjc&ei=sRGyVIzqM4_ZoATfkIJw#imgdii=_&imgrc=ulAqg8gYE7ZKfM%253A%3BuKS77pZ82GRMUM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.plasmaled.com%252Fimages%252FLED_bulb_fix.gif%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.plasmaled.com%252Finstructionsled.htm%3B504%3B470
  20. dna9656
    Me too.
  21. dna9656
    The resistor is connected to the blinker lead then the other end of the resistor is connected to ground. IAW the diagram I found on the 'net.
  22. dna9656
    I have 1157 and 1156 in LED and Incandescent (regular) bulbs. The regulars work fine. When checking the led the blinker side works fine, the running light side does not work even though power is present at the terminal in the socket. Take out the LED and the regular bulb works fine. use 4 different LEDs with same bad results. The only thing that makes sense to me is that the terminals on the bottom of the LED are un-even, but I ruled that out with DIRECT connections.
  23. dna9656
    OK I have the resistor connected to the BLINKER WIRE, and then to the same ground in the plug. The blinker blinks but no running light. Changer back to 1157 (with R still installed) and have blinker and running light as they should be. Change to DIFFERENT LED and (still) have blinker but no running light. 4 different LEDs do this. Doug
  24. dna9656
    Yeah I noticed a bit of weeping from there too. I should overhaul that slave cylinder soon, any one got a part number for the kit or parts handy?
  25. dna9656
    On order! Thanks Merlyn!!!
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