dna9656

I think Bridgestone and Dunlop are the only MFRs making BOTH sizes our bike takes. I with I could get some Commander 2s....

See the '83 to '85 Base Service Manual , Chapter 2 Periodic Insp. and Adjustments; pages 27 and 28. The chart states 8.5mm is NEW for both front and rear rotors. The minimum is not (thanks a lot Yamaha) given I have a cheapie harbor freight sliding vernier caliper; I measured 8point ?? I am skeptical of that number as the bike is an 84 with 66K miles; besides that how can the rotor be THICKER than new? Production variance? I hope not. I don't know how they wear (the rate being fast or slow) but again I have no idea when and if the rotors have ever been changed.

See the base service manual "83 to '85, Chapter 2 Periodic Insp. and Adjustments; pages 27 and 28 in the chart states 8.5mm is NEW for both front and rear rotors. I called the dealer and I THINK they said the minimum was 5mm but I might be wrong, call your local dealer and get a confirmation. With my cheapie harbor freight sliding vernier caliper I measured 8point ?? I am skeptical of that number as the bike is an 84 with 66K miles. I don't know how they wear (the rate being fast or slow) but again I have no idea when and if the rotors have ever been changed.

Also you can buy a whole SET of carbs on ebay (that MIGHT need major surgery) for WAY less than what this guy is suggesting. I think he's got an anniversary trip planned and you've the sponsor....BTW Peder is THE MAN when it comes to these carbs. He lives over in the next town from me and has performed some magic on my carbs...Just sayin'.....there are a LOT of smarts here and lots of experience. I really like it here!

I ditched the old fuse panel and got a 8 circuit ATO (modern auto fuse style) fuse box on line. I mover ALL the fuses to this panel, to include the in-line ones. Best thing I ever did to the electrical system as it makes finding a blown fuse a snap (Aww I made a funny! fuses SNAP when they blow!) whether I'm at home or on the road. I carry a ATO fuse tester on the bike, it has a light in it...I marked the fuse locations with the names of the circuits they serve with a label maker. The new fuse box rides rightwhere the old one did. Check my prev. posts for pics.

It's all about the VIN with Kevin!

Contact me for a source for a windshield. I know where you can get a seat too.

YOU tell'em Peder! BTW my plugge pilot valve hasn't un plugged yet would you be interested in looking ovr myshoulders during a tear down/assembly? I'll buy lunch....

So no one wants to go out on a limb with a recommendation.... I tried cheap organic pads on the 84, got them at O'Reill's Auto Parts for about $15.00 a set. They stop the bike all right but they squeal and I think HH pads would probably out perform them. I found a set of EBCs HH for $23.00 a set on Amazon, that's probably the cheapest price on the web.

I wasn't condoning the purchase of cheap parts... I just asked if any one here did in the past.

Well guys while I do have a couple of spare wheels on hand; I just didn't have the confidence to proceed to whack the livin' you know what outta that bearing. I have had a rough summer working on stuff, nothing seems to have gone right; most every decision backfired. It took the summer to get a timing belt changed on the Sebring and due to so much carbon build (it fell into the cylinders from the combustion face of the head) up in the cylinders that the engine wouldn't rotate 360 during the hand rotation step of the job. It took a LONG time to learn that Mitsubishi did not properly place 1 timing mark on the engine so caution dictates finding out what was going on. I had to get the heads re-surfaced; then 2 weeks after the job was finished i had to pull the rear head back off to replace a cam seal. I have never paid so much $$ for gaskets...the head gasket for this motor is around $40.00 each; then I got a check engine light that turned out to be a shorted out spark plug... The 3.5 is my first interference engine, the only tech data available was the factory manual and and the version I got wasn't complete, Haynes JUST released their book the week I started the job and the on-line version was the only version available. The cool thing was the computer in the garage and the 40" monitor I got, I can really make the pictures big, and by the way the pics in the Yamaha book are pretty good on a 40" screen.....

How did yuou "push the spacer in the middle off to one side" do you mean you pressed it against the opposite inner race? Man I could not get any kind of meaningful purchase with my punch on that spacer. Maybe my spacer is a tad longer than some others.... OR (I bet) some of those spacers have been shortened to make this job a LOT easier...

The special tool remains CLASSIFIED. I'm betting it's a super secret, super sexy adapter on a bench press, some sort of wing thing like those spring loaded toggle bolts we use in blind holes, you know you drill a hole and poke the bolt and nut through the hole, the wing nut collapses as it goes through the hole and expands once it's free of the hole on the other side.... I'm sure they got something like that. Maybe they press the inner spacer out (using it to push the bearing out) or they could use a press to pull the bearing out too...I would guess....

Let's face it; Yamaha uses serviceable (ones you have to repack) bearings all over the bike in support of the dealerships' maintenance shops. Who among us want to tear down the bike to repack those bearings when you can get sealed bearings and pretty much say good by to the tear downs and just check for wobble and when you find the bearing is good you move on? So given the age of my '84 and being concerned I might put an incompatible grease in the bearing I wanted to change the bearings. So I thought I would remove them, clean them, repack, re-install and be a happy camper. Not to be. I was advised here and on other forums to just replace them. After all they aren't expensive as motorcycle parts go (so long as you don't buy them at the Stealer) so why not? I have replaced wheel bearings before, I have fought stuck inner races from spindles with hammers, chisels, heat, pullers and presses and have always won. Boy; aren't things different on a motorcycle?! So I PM'ed several of you excellent people for guidance after checking on what had been posted here first. Not much has been posted. I got a blind slide hammer pilot bearing puller on loan from the local Auto Zone. I have a nice assortment of punches, a map gas and propane torch, I even have a bearing and seal driver kit; as I mentioned I have been down the bearing road before. I set the wheel on 2" X 4"s to keep the rotors off the concrete, got the seal out, squirted some Kroil (penetrating oil) around the outer race and got the puller. I installed it as best I could and attempted to remove the bearing. I did that for a long time because the fingers didn't seat well in between the inner spacer and the inner race of the bearing. I even considered grinding the fingers on the puller to make them fit better. Flipping the tire/wheel assembly over and taking my trusty hammer and punch in hand I whacked the inner race from the other side... nothing... the space between the spacer and race was so small the punch wouldn't stay in place. Well I did that few more times to no avail. I tried some other tools that weren't designed for this job too.... I got on the forum and got pretty much the advice I expected (thank you all for your time and input!!!) and thought about heating the wheel up to expand the outer diameter of the bearing housing, it being made of aluminum made me nervous about taking this course of action. Aluminum has a lower melting point than iron or steel and can be sensitive to heat. I knew about freezing the new bearing to help get it in the hole as well. So I cut my losses, called the Stealer and was told that job requires a "special tool". Oh what a SHOCK that was! NO KIDDING? a SPECIAL TOOL?! Well why doesn't the book address that? What special tool could this be? In Yamaha's wisdom that is all CLASSIFIED INFORMATION! After all Yamaha has to support it's dealers. That's why there is a surprising LACK of info in the FACTORY SERVICE manual. WE all know that, that's why most of are here on this forum and others like it. There HAS TO BE another manual that Yamaha provides to only to it's dealers, some of that info is available through forums like this one but the coverage is not yet complete. The Dealer charges 1 hour labor to change the bearings and seals I provided so long as I removed and installed the wheel. I thought about installing the bearings myself... I have to ride to work Monday at 0440 hours (that's almost 5 AM for you civilians) so I copped out and paid the MAN; and from where I sit it was $ well spent. My hands aren't torn up, my stress level is down and all that remains is puttin' the $%#*@ thing back on! Thanks again to all that helped out!

Quality of the merchandise has always been a concern at JC Whitney, however they did start handling brand name items more than a few years ago. I went to the store in Chicago in 19 and 89. It was called Warsharsky's (close enough) Auto Parts. It was like stepping back into 1968. No computers, paper catalogs and slides from ceiling to floor that carried merchandise from above to the sales floor. 5 cashiers with 1968 vintage cash registers...anyway I digress... I just bought a "Slip Stream" windshield for my '84 through Whitney. No Problems with the purchase or shipping. The Whitney catalog shows 2 windshields from Slip Stream for the 1st gen bikes. I called Slip Stream to see what the difference was between the 2 windshields. Slip Stream says they make ONE windshield for this bike, strange that Whitney shows TWO. I bought the less expensive one, no complaints....

You guys are so clever! I will try that. Any wisdom on getting the front wheel bearing out? I got a blind puller but it's just a LITTLE too big...

You're ON!!! I'll not only send you ONE Troubled LED but I will send you TWO troubled LEDs to double your challenge and therefor DOUBLE your pleasure just like DOUBLE-MINT GUM!!!! Please provide necessary info via pvt msg.

I have insulated riding pants, some fair gauntlet gloves (insulated) a Cabella's' "B-3" Bomber Jacket, a full face helmet, I were a thin on the top/thick around the neck balaclava PLUS a THICK knitted tube around the out side of the balaclava ; it not only increases warmth and comfort but it keeps the wind out from under the helmet. For those of you that are too young to know what a B-3 Jacket is, it was designed for Bomber crewmen on B-17s ,B-24s, B-25, B-26s. All these aircraft weren't pressurized so at 30,000 feet it was pretty dang cold.. 30 to 40 below PLUS the Wind Chill Factor. When my Gauntlets ain't makin' it I have some polyurethane mittens I wear inside a pair of USAF current issue Arctic Mittens I bought on E-Bay. My hands have been pretty comfortable with this set up, a little cool if i ride the Road Star, she's got no fairings but she does have a windshield. I have ALL the fairings on the Venture and feel almost no wind at free way speeds. I drive 26 miles each way to work and I don't ride when there is snow, or freezing temps and rain forecast. I ride in the rain otherwise. Oh yeah I got some insulated boots (think Sorrels) issued to my while serving in AK. that are pretty warm too. I forgot, I wear some pretty good LONG JOHNS too! The more wool the better.

I have the load resistor LR) EXACTLY as pictured in the diagram above, the lr is on the blinker hot then to the blinker/running light ground. I change it around to the running ling light to the shared ground, I put butt connectors on the wires so i could reverse the polarity of the socket. I have worked on only the left side. I have wried only ONE resistor in this whole mess, it's connected as described above. I have never run it tyo chassis ground because it just might go intot he flasher unit. I don't know but it could be a dedicated ground so I'm thinking that would be the one to use. This makes my head hurt too.

I know you can sleeve master cylinders...contact a local machinist at an auto parts store or do an internet search for M/C sleeves, who knows you may get lucky!

I have been in the maintinance field for 36 years and never heard of no stuff like that! Yeah brakes get hot but not THAT hot. Maybe race CARS on a long track with lots of curves, I agree with the cost of pads (cheapies can be had for $15.00 or so a set. PM me and I'll tell you where. They are organic, not the best but if bucks are hard to come by they work....

Your picture is so small I can't read it, when enlarging it to a readable size it turns into fuzzy mush.....got a better one?

I converted the brake/running light first with 2 1157 RED LEDs and the only consequence was the warning indicator on the CMS. I had started on the left side (rider's point of view) by installing the 3 ohm 50 watt resistor right there by the socket. I got bad results, either the running light worked and the blinker didn't or the other way around. I put 1156's on the left side (rear Blinker) and it worked. I don't remember if it worked without the LED installed in front. It worked with the incandescent bulb in there as well.

Well I talked to superbrightlights.com. tech department. I sent them the youtube shown above that DEMONSTRATES the issue rather well; at least it's clear to me. The Chat guy said "The video didn't help at all" so I knew I was talking to a guy that looks stuff up on the web site and not a tech guy) and they were of no help. They cannot tell you if their bulbs will work correctly OR work like the ones I bought (that work wrong) on E-Bay one set the other I bought at O'Reilly's Auto Parts Store. So take it for what it's worth. My incandescent bulbs work and that tells me there's something different in the LEDS you guys (that haven't had problems) buy VS. the ones I bought. A seemingly premier outfit (judging by the prices there) like superbrightlights.com has no idea how their LEDs are made VS. the competition strikes me as a little weird. Seems to me that presenting yourself as they do you would have the market by the _alls because your product is technically better and you can explain why, therefore justifying the exorbitant prices, then have customers that are educated and don't mind spending the $$$ for something that WORKS; and tell all their friends about it. By the way I sent them an E-mail 2 or 3 days ago (they promise a reply in one or so business days) and have not rec'd a reply. Another bad sign of they really are just sales people and not tech oriented. So I guess there is no more point in pursuing converting my front running/blinker lights to LEDs, however having LEDs in the rear running light and blinkers seem to work.

JC Whitney on sale for 70+