dna9656

I powder coat at work. The oven we used is kept WAY hotter than required, I don't know why; that's above my pay grade. We powder coat stuff that lives in a marine environment, is handled by people that don't care about the beating they give equipment, in other words they are operators, not maintainers. I read that powder coat is the MOST scratch resistant coating available. Now this means that if you laid a sample object (coated with powder coat) down (secured) on a ocean beach (with wave action) with other like samples with the other available coating(s) applied to them the powder coat would be the LEAST scratched up after X time has passed. It does NOT mean that powder coat can't be scratched. Powder coat comes in epoxy based and polyester based. Like anything else you would paint or anodize the more pristine the surface the better the adherence, cleaning with soap and water, a degreaser (like synthetic alcohol) a media blast (if possible) and handling with CLEAN rubber gloves will assure there's no skin oil on your object. Hand sanding will work, but you'll have to degrease it if you use your bare hands. Now lot of people will tell you gloves and degreasing is overkill, well this is how I do it and my jobs NEVER come back because the powder coat flaked off.. You can powder coat at home, I wouldn't do it in the house though. You need a oven that will heat up to 225 or 250d F. Check your product data sheet for temps and conditions. Applying it is messy, wear a respirator. there is nothing in powder coat you want in your body.. It's like spraying baking flour. You can heat up the object first, apply the coating or apply it cold and THEN heat it up. usually the larger objects get pre heated and cooked again. Powder coat can go on (dry) like sprayed paint does if you're too far away from the surface, it can run if too thick as well. Get some scrap and learn how to apply it by doing. It will media blast off, it just takes longer than paint. Powder coat is a little like the plastic dip you put on tool handles; maybe softer than paint, that's what makes it tough I suppose. The neat thing about it is it really sinks into the "profile" (scratches from sanding or pits and valleys left by media blasting) of the object, it levels out very nicely so it doesn't show sand scratches like paint can, it doesn't have issues like paint can. I wouldn't put it over any kind of under coat, even over powder coat, I mean what's the point? Blast off the undercoat and start "anew". That's the BEST surface to powder coat. You CAN P/C over existing P/C though. It's liable to be too thick...

I agree with you Flyin, I think a push rod motor just can't turn the RPMs an OH©V (over head (cam) valve) engine can or produce the amount of torque. our OHC engine does. I got a 1999 1600 Road Star; nice bike if you're a V-Twin person; I am not. The way the bike vibrates it make my nose itch! A "Venture" (IMHO) should be built on the original theme; a crotch rocket for those that don't like crotch rockets. I really like the original concept, storage for travel, heck I can put 2 maybe 3 cases of (in 6 packs or loose bottles) 12oz. containers in my bike. I can stop and get most auto parts, some groceries, etc. I'm sure that's still true with the newer versions but they look like Harleys, drive like Harleys, sound like Harleys, and handle (ewww) like one too. I don't think push rod motors are less expensive to make either; maybe I donno. I do know I like the 83 to 93 ventures, the look is timeless, it has comfort and conveniences not found on many bikes in it's class until you get to the big Hondas. I would consider a Gold Wing if I could find one that was affordable but by the time they are they got too many miles on them and/or don't have the features (working) that I want. Now I use my smart phone for GPS, music (pandora), and comms. with the better half until I put a blue tooth marine grade receiver in the left side of the fairing. My knowledge of bikes is limited to The Ventures and my Road Star. if I stepped on any one's toes or displayed a certain ignorance of what's been and IS out there so far as cruiser/touring bikes go and M/Cs in general it's my own ignorance showing. I just know what I like.

I'm not sure where this SHOULD be posted, I hope it's here! There are some cool things here, check out the left side of the page as well. http://www.banggood.com/Carling-Waterproof-LED-Indicator-Light-Rocker-SPST-ON-OFF-Switch-p-972368.html?utm_design=13&utm_source=emailvision&utm_medium=Mail_men129_all&utm_campaign=newsletter&utm_content=Misue

As I was reading the posts I was thinking, "just get the ring and pinion tooth count and divine the pinion (# of teeth) into the ring (# of teeth) and get the ratio, then get a V-Max one and do the same but you already have Randy...BUT my point is the V-max differential will give a lower top speed, while giving more "pick up" at low speeds because the V-max gear makes more torque at low speeds than the Venture. My Speedo on my 83.5 is right on the money; I know because I drive by 2 of those "YOUR SPEED" radar things everyday and at 35 it's dead on. RPM might be a different story....

What do you think? Bright enough, power use good? http://www.banggood.com/CREE-U5-Motorcycle-LED-Headlight-Waterproof-High-Power-Spot-Light-p-941300.html?utm_design=18&utm_source=emailvision&utm_medium=Mail_men128_all&utm_campaign=newsletter&utm_content=Claire

As usual you guys are right on!

You now have the part number (and a future source to look up part numbers) for the torn up cover, you have the (I think) proper Yamaha name (hose) for the part. Now you can do a search for it on the Internet, like Amazon and eBay. Lots of obsolete parts come on those 2 sites...

In the '84 parts manual item 56 is called a HOSE... http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042525f8700209bc7880e2/electrical-2 http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-90445-08716-00.html?gclid=CI_qzeDD38QCFYVqfgodUboABw

Thanks all! Apparently the parts guys at my local Yamaha Dealer aren't as sharp as you Kevin, they had nothing on hand that was angeled and had no idea what size the hole is. They did measure a valve for me, (a straight one) and it measured 8.0mm. No cycle gear stores around here.

Well apparently Yamaha has the only valve stem of the size you'll find on your Venture Royale. Kuveygirl.com has a chart, says a Venture (1200) uses a valve size 8.3mm. The part number (151693) Bike Master shows as fitting our bike is too big. After being assured it fit by some one at bikemaster in 3 separate emails I took the tires to my tire guy and the valve is too large. The 2 M/C dealers in town don't have a angled tire valve in that size. It's like I'm in some kind of Geographically oddity; 2 weeks from everywhere.

Red fades in the sun pretty quick....just sayin'...

I bet it's somewhat like finding out the tire shop put a different valve core in your tire valve. I know those little vales can leak for many reasons. When I worked in a tire shop we checked the valves and the tire for leaks before we let the tire out of the shop for this very reason. It really frosted my cake ya know? And why can't the tire shops line up the dot on the tire opposite the tire valve like they are supposed to? Yeah I know "we're gonna balance it anyway"....but that ain't the point. Car shops don't do it either. I wasn't a TRAINED mechanic until I was in the Armed Forces, before that I just did what seemed to work. I had no tech data, no torque wrench, heck I didn't get a socket set til I was 19; I had to borrow them till then..... The USAF taught me to follow tech data and if it wasn't in there always walk in the spirit of the data. Like all screws and bolts are oriented with the head UP, (and/or) FORWARD, (and/o)r OUTBOARD, that way if the nut came off the bolt would be more likely to stay in position....

Thanks to all! I went to Tacoma Power Sports this past Saturday after dealing with my leaking front tire valve (yeah the front tire, the one that was mounted the day before with the leaky schrader valve) and told the counter guy what I wanted, he gave me a pair with out researching the size saying they "were all the same; aren't they?" I asked him if they were the correct size for MY bike; he looks it up and goes in the back and comes out with another set. I found this GREAT little chart on the web. It seems ALL VRs use the same size. 8.3mm.... http://www.kurveygirl.com/valve/guide/KurveyGirl%20-%20Yamaha%20Motorcycles%20Valve%20Stems%20Guide.pdf

Funny you mention that... while at Harbor freight my son noticed the bead breaker there for $40.00 item#60810 but you need the Portable tire changer Item #69686 $40.00 too. $80.00 to be able to do my own tire changing? That's a deal!

Got a new front tire on the Venture Friday, got a good deal too. Went to Tacoma Friday night, spent the night there and came out to a flat front tire. Called AAA, they said 2.5 hours minimum before anyone would be there; screw that. Called my son, he came out. we took the wheel off and found a air compressor at a gas station, learned the valve was leaking. new core and so far it's holding air. Moral of the story?> I donno if there is one.

Thanks Pete, any idea as to brand name? All brass? Size?

Looking to buy angled valve stems, do they work on 1st gens? What size is the hole in the stock wheel? I have read 8 mm and 10mm are standard sizes for the hole in the wheel; also inch dimensions have been given. What size do we have? Are 45 degree stems work better in the front (back)? What about 90 degree stems? I have read that pointing them out the right side is better because you have more open access to them, that makes sense to me....I have also read that the ALL METAL stems are better than the rubber stems...Is there a brand that seems to work better on this wheel than others? Any input would be appreciated.

Again; you're the Soul of Brevity...

When I used my vacuum pump on the front brakes you could see the air bubbles traveling through the clear hose, it never stopped,that told me there was a leak, most likely at the clear hose to the bleeder connection, so I gravity bled the brakes as mentioned before and applied vacuum applied the brakes to the travel limit of the lever (or pedal) and tightened the bleeder. Best I could do. On speedy bleeders, the manual tells us to use the hose from the bleeder into a container of clean brake fluid. After the initial bleed the hose will fill with brake fluid and there should not be any air in the hose so should the brake system have draw FROM outside through the bleeder the only thing that will be drawn into the system is CLEAN brake fluid thus negating the need for the speedy bleeders. I get how the speedy bleeder speed things up; they eliminate the need for the hose in the clean brake fluid....nice... but not NECESSARY. I over hauled the calipers last year before I rode the bike. The calipers were full of goo....I cleaned the calipers and cups with alcohol and brake fluid followed up with a light polishing with quad 0 steel wool. With compressed air I blew out all passages in the calipers. Everything was beautiful in it's own way ()!!! I have never been satisfied with the brake performance of this bike. I installed new pads (cheaper ones I admit) I wonder if the caliper is mis-aligned... I have the 85 parts bike that has a rear brake bracket on it and the caliper. I think I will swap out the bracket and see how the rear brake performs, if it still does not work right I will overhaul the caliper on the 85 and install it on the 83.5 and see what happens.

TOO FUNNY!!!!

What is the advantage(s) of using speed bleeders? When I TRIED to bleed my brakes I used a brake bleeding (for want of a better term) hand vacuum pump to draw the air down the lines to the bleeder. I thought it worked pretty well in the front but the back inboard caliper cup doesn't move, I can tell by the rust on the inboard of the rotor. I believe the manual says bleed them more or less like regular brakes on the older cars (pre anti-lock); well I did that for days, tied the lever and pedal in the on position and left for days hoping the air would travel to the top, I still got air....

Pete; did your spell check have that word "exaserbates" in it or did you look it up? My spell ck says it's "exacerbates"....hell; who cares!?~ I never thought I would I would see a 4 sylable word on line much less anywhere I hung out!

Any further developments?

I'm diving in to the 1300 forks and R1 brake mod. I have the forks and ordered the calipers today. I will research the over haul kit for the calipers and forks. I see here on the forum OEM is the way to go with the fork seals. It's a back burner project; I'll overhaul the forks (one way or another) and install the progressive springs. When all is complete I will take a weekend (with new (sealed) fork bearings in hand and install the fork. I will take lots of pics in case some one decides to dive in. From what I have read here I won't need the anti dive units with the progressive springs....still I wonder if they can used or the hyd. ones from the 1200. Well I will check fitment first and then wonder if they will operate.

I got new standard automotive ignition wire at the local NAPA by the foot.