dna9656

Ebay, Amazon, boats.net , partszilla are all good places to look on the internet.

Flyin' is right. Check all those plugs! Clean them up and get some die-electric grease (the stuff you see on the terminals of automotive lights bulbs) and fill the connectors with it by pressing (with your finger) it into the connector housing so it encapsulates the brass terminals in the housing. This way they are cut off from oxygen and can't oxidize. Don't buy it in those little envelopes you see at the auto parts counter, get a TUBE of it. To get the terminal out of the housing is a little tricky. There is (should be) a little tab, tang, (or barb) on the terminal that catches on part of the terminal housing. It locks the terminal in place so it can't back out ("back" being towards the wire the terminal is connected to); the way the housing is made prevents the terminal from coming out in a forward direction. If you look at the housing "front side" there will be a rectangle for each terminal, there will be a SMALLER rectangle on one LONG side of the rectangle. This is where the little tang, tab, or barb is located. It's actually a section of the terminal that's been cut and bent OUT from the main body of the terminal to catch on a groove molded into the housing. I use a hack saw blade I narrow on my grinder until I have a section of blade that will fit into this smaller rectangle. The tool you create has to be a long enough to pass through most of the housing's length but NOT all the way, you'll see why as you go along. Push the tool into the smaller rectangle and it should go past the aforementioned tang/tab/barb so the barb can't catch on the groove in there and a gentle tug on the wire connected to the terminal you're working on will pull it out. It make take several tries, it may not. After cleaning make sure the barb is bent OUT away from the terminal's body just a LITTLE BIT, you can do this by holding the terminal with some needle nose pliers and applying the edge of the hack saw tool you made, the barb's being bent out a little ways will ensure you'll feel/hear the barb snap into place when you re-insert the terminal into the housing. Carefully inspect the plastic housing so you will better understand what you're doing and all this will make a lot more sense. PS: make sure the barb will engage the groove in the terminal, if the wire pulls out too easily you need to flip it over, if it's aligned properly and still comes out of the block the barb isn't bend out far enough to catch and you'll have to bend it out a little more.

Sounds like Evergreen (That's pronounced (agree with my Liberal values or else) State here in WA. What you no like kum ba yah?!

Spoken like a true philosopher....

I ask the sellers on ebay for the part numbers of the parts they are selling, they usually don't know and if they can't provide I get skeptical of buying form them. I mean thay have ALL the pertanant info to look up the P/N of the thingamajig that's in hand. Like the METER; it's not a SPEEDOMETER or a COMPUTER but that's what the METER is often called on eBay. Not the best example of my point but if you have researched parts and dealt with the ebayers you know what I mean. They don't know about the 4 brush starter, they don't know that the wheel bearings they sell fit more than 1 year, For example (again) One vendor showed Balls Are Best bearings for a different year than I needed. I looked up the bearings at Yamaha for the year being offered (on eBay) and compared them to the P/N for my bike, they were the same so I bought the bearings, they fit just fine.

I own the '85 with the last non-V-Max tranny. My last 4 are 1416.

Well I suppose I'm not SURE of anything. The plastic that forms the meter face isn't weather worn, the body work has very minimal repairs needed; no busted tabs on the front fairing halves that the side panel pokies fit into (that break off but are intact on the fairings I now have), the edges on the corners below the mirrors aren't busted all to crap, everything isn't dull and worn like nearly all the other bikes I have seen. The 47K bike is black and VERY glossy just like the 24K. They look (unless the guy buffed out the weathering) pretty new to me. The body work would have to be buffed out before removal from the bike because there is no way they would survive the action of a buffer off the bike. It's been my experience that parts sellers RARELY clean up much less buff the parts they sell on eBay. So while I'm NOT SURE the mileage is accurate, anymore than any sworn statement on a title attesting to the truth of the odometer guarantees accuracy I think it's factual. Besides they are exempt from the odometer laws anyway. Isn't there a provision in the odometer law that says when a the numbers roll over there has to be a visual way to tell? Anyone know what year that took effect? Since it's my money that was spent; all that really matters is what I believe. The seller is happy and I'm happy. Win/Win. UPDATE! Having been a vehicle painter for 16 years I have learned that factory paint (in most cases) looks different than re-finish paint. That is getting to be less evident though as the factory paint on domestic (USA) vehicles gets more gloss to it. In the past domestic factory paint looked a bit dull while the re-finish paint was WAY more glossy. Also another thing to look for: unless the re-paint was done by a very professional detail-er (the person that buffs out a re-finish paint job) there is almost always "trash" (dust, dirt) in the paint. Often there is "orange peel" (a texture in the paint that is hard to avoid in a a lot of shops) but it gets sanded out and then buffed (unless it's base coat/clear coat) by the detail-er. No, I think the odometer hasn't rolled over.

I just picked up 2 '83s, they got the clock above the Computer...One has 24K on the odometer! I'm resurrecting that one! The other shows 47 or so K. They are disassembled quite a ways; the sellers was going to part them out but life happened. I have what looks like all the hardware and he didn't cut any wire so it looks doable. Edit: Corrected your title for you (was Mew) - Eck

Ok Kevin eat your heart out: 1983 XVZ12T VIN JYA26H004DA002111. In BLACK Don't know the miles she's got. 1983 XVZ12TDK VIN JYA31M003DA001141. In Alluvial Gold. She's got 26k on the clock. She's getting all the new parts that are on the 83.5 once she's up and running. Most of the body work is intact except for one side of the front fairing, but the same side on the black bike's fairing is perfect. So I was going to re-paint her anyway. The lowers' (they got one small piece busted off and ear...the lowers' cross member, the side panels and saddle bags all good. I'll be retaining the '85's rear trunk though, it holds TWO helmets! Both in my garage next to the 83.5 and the 85 oh and the '99.

Must be nice to have side covers with the pins (pokies) intact. Must be nice to have the side covers! I wish some one would make replacements!

Man that's a lot of posts! I got the Ignitec TCI from Dingy (Gary), It's ONE box, (I never knew there were 2 boxes) ONE GM style MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor and it plugs into the bike's OEM plugs (you'll need to use wire ties to keep them connected as the connector locks are of different styles. The only problems I had were NOT TCI connected but with the connecting the COPs (Coil Over Plugs) to eliminate the age old Ignition coils as well. The problems were MY fault (I over thought the how to connect phase) but that's all been worked out. The ignition has worked superbly so far. I have a lot more confidence that the bike won't crap out some cold rainy night where there is no cell phone reception (that's in BFE) far from home on a little traveled road that no one lives on. The ONE thing I know for sure is NO machine is ever going to fail in your driveway, it'll be when it's going to have some sort of major impact on your life or at the very least be a major inconvenience, especially if you have your SO on board. Get the new Ignition and COPs; don't depend on a 31 year old electronic component. It's one thing to depend on the CLASS, the radio, CB, and cassette deck to do their jobs they don't affect going down the road to that warm, (coo;) dry place called home, but that ignition system sure does.

Man that's a lot of posts! I got the Ignitec TCI from Gary, It's ONE box, (I never knew there were 2 boxes) ONE GM style MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor and it plugs into the bike's OEM plugs (you'll need to use wire ties to keep them connected as the connector locks are of different styles. The only problems I had were NOT TCI connected but with the connecting the COPs (Coil Over Plugs) to eliminate the age old Ignition coils as well. The problems were MY fault (I over thought the how to connect phase) but that's all been worked out. The ignition has worked superbly so far. I have a lot more confidence that the bike won't crap out some cold rainy night where there is no cell phone reception (that's in BFE) far from home on a little traveled road that no one lives on. The ONE thing I know for sure is NO machine is ever going to fail in your driveway, it'll be when it's going to have some sort of major impact on your life or at the very least be a major inconvenience, especially if you have your SO on board. Get the new Ignition and COPs; don't depend on a 31 year old electronic component. It's one thing to depend on the CLASS, the radio, CB, and cassette deck to do their jobs they don't affect going down the road to that warm, (coo;) dry place called home, but that ignition system sure does.

Not as old as you! I went through this when I bought my conventional battery. On my first 83 the new battery came with the resistor right in the box so i was somewhat put out when buying battery for the newer 83.5 (17 years later) there was no sensor and to buy one from the battery maker was $50.00, the battery was only $30.00 ! So I made my own "sensor".

Agreed. I have a Yamaha Road Star, more or less a Harley knock off, it doesn't corner worth a damn, it is lower and easier to handle when using feet to hold the bike up (turning when parking) The Venture is also even harder when riding 2 up ESPECIALLY if you have 30" inseam like me. I had the seat thinned a little to get me closer to the ground, now I can put both feet on the ground. The bike was actually too tall for me but nothing rides and goes like she does!

UPDATE: I got the water tight connector plugs installed. Using the OEM wire harness to transmit data to (the COPs)/from from the Ignitec TCI. So now.... The TACH is BACK! The POWER, she is GONE! So I'm going to (again) ensure that the polarity from the OEM coil input to the COPs' input is correct. That will rule out dead (non-firing/one or more) COPs is/are bad.

I'm going back to the OEM harness and extending the leads from the OEM coil IN PUT leads to the COPs. This will re-incorporate the OEM harness in it's entirety and should solve my Tach issue yes? Yesterday I received water tight plugs I ordered from Amazon. I will install these on the OEM coil leads on both ends (the coil input lead from the OEM harness and on the other end connecting them to the COPs) of the leads. Should I need (or want) to I have 8 and 6 pin plugs (WX pack style) on hand to replace the OEM plugs used to connect the TCI to the OEM harness. When I was initially using the OEM coils I have no fuel pump or tach issues. I haven't ridden the bike since I started the COP install, however the fuel pump has always cycled (no pun intended) when turning the bike ON.

Gary makes a programming adjustment for that issue.

You get a LONG wood dowel, short enough to get in the spark plug hole but hopefully too long to get lost in the cylinder, you can mark the rod with any sort of reference marks you like; say millimeters maybe... Get a rubber grommet that tightly fits the dowel rod but won't go through the spark plug hole. Put the grommet on the dowel rod. Now insert the dowel down through the spark plug hole and slowly rotate the crank in it's normal direction and watch the dowel move, if it goes down I would lower the grommet on the dowel so it CAN'T (just to cover your ssa) fall in. When the piston is on it's up you'll see the rod stop moving when TDC is reached. The marking are just for ease sighting the movement as TDC is approached and past. Harbor Freight has a very nice camera for less than $100.00 you can use to see down into the cylinder. A GREAT inspection tool.It comes with a hook to retrieve things, a mirror to look at the head and valve faces; it records video (and takes stills too} all in color! You can record it on a sim card or use the on board memory and either way you can move it to your PC or lap top for a bigger picture.

You had XVZ12DKC2?

It's been my exp. that most engines like to spin a little faster at low vehicle speeds as the torque is greater they don't bog down as much; on the other hand my '83.5 gets 50 mpg hwy. (highway) @ 60 mph and most of my driving is hwy. and not at 60 mph; It's 61 mph.

Old rule of thumb: AC DELCO for GM, Champion for Chryslers, Autolite for Fords and now Bosch in anything except Motorcycles. When seeking advice on plugs for Metric (Japanese) bikes everyone has always said use the NKGs. I'm on my 3rd bike and have never had a plug issue. When changing plugs on the XVZ I use a really long spark plug socket and no extensions. I think I got the socket at HF or some other off brand source. It's about 6" long maybe more; it has the 6 sided top to use a wrench to turn it. It's been my unfortunate exp. to break a spark plug when using universals or swivel headed sockets. Most likely my poor use of tooling than the type of tool being used as some here use swivel head sockets and universals. Did ya all see that double action ratchet at Lowe's, it keeps turning in the desired rotation with every swing of the ratchet handle. $26.00 please. I don't think it's a Kobalt catalog item. It doesn't show up on the Lowe's site.

Old rule of thumb: AC DELCO for GM, Champion for Chryslers, Autolite for Fords and now Bosch in anything except Motorcycles. When seeking advice on plugs for Metric (Japanese) bikes everyone has always said use the NKGs. I'm on my 3rd bike and have never had a plug issue.

Well it isn't a knock off that's for sure. I think it looks Harley-ish, like most newer bikes have that 5/8s fairing where the Venture has a 100%. I like the hard ABS, the lock, and greater water resistance the stock fairing offers but if my fairing were FUBAR I would defiantly consider this.

Everything needed to install the Ignitec is included in the kit along with some other nice things. I installed it IAW Dingy's great instructions. The do not include how to install COPs however so that's when I got into trouble. I thought extending the leads from the coils back to the COPs might have too much resistance to fire the coils; so I ran my own harness from the TCI to the home made COP sub harness. Apparently YOU CAN'T DO THAT. (apparently).

Well I think I posted that question and never got a response. I didn't know the tach was hooked up to the TCI, I figured it was on the coil sensors or the alternator. I had it hooked up to the bike's harness initially spiced into the block. I got everything needed for installation in the kit from Dingy. The issues I have had are because of the COPs I have installed. The TCI does not come with those instructions. I just ordered some weather pax style plugs and a crimper to extend the wires that go to the OEM coils to the TCI, that way all OEM down line connections are maintained.