dna9656

Glad I have 3 parts bikes.....I haven't inspected them much at all but they are for the most part complete and have spent most of their existence in the NW United States so far as I know. My advice to us all would be to buy parts bikes when you can and have the room for it (them); maybe some folks don't have the room and some do; maybe they could get together if practicable and help each other out with storage,,,not everyone has a 3 car garage... I am glad that Mark has decided to go back into production, seems if there is a market there will be someone willing to satisfy that market. Great thread! Very informative!

And what about that %$#&*&^( thin wall stuff that goes from the twinkie to the air box? I got 3 parts bikes and that thin wall stuff on all three is harder than Chinese Trigonometry.

Ok guys I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this question but I have to ask as metric fuel line is hard to find when you don't know where to look... My bike SOMETIMES has a almost dead cylinder because (I think) it's not getting a full charge of gas due to some kind of fuel blockage. Now I think it's the L/R cylinder because the R/R cylinder puts out a LOT more heat than the L/R cylinder when this condition exists. It probably feels like a lot more heat because the L/R is producing hardly any power. So my theory is there is a bit of deteriorated fuel line somewhere in the plumbing. When I got the bike the fuel filter was a disgrace. It's long since been replaced but at the time it didn't occur to me that there might be a bit of 1983 vintage fuel line stopping up the works. Well I removed the rubber "T" and the short rubber line from the carb and they looked good. Stuck a pipe cleaner in each carb's fuel inlet and found no crap. I removed the end of the main line (the line from the filter) from the fuel manifold and stuck it in a can and turned on the ignition/fuel pump switch to see if any crap came out and to check the flow. No crap came from the hose and flow seems adequate. I believe I can assume there's no blockage in the tank to filter line as the flow on the other side of the filter seems good So being that hoses are probably original equipment they should be replaced. I think I got some crap in the carb's float bowl or in the fuel circuits some place and it floats around until it gets stuck and disrupts the fuel flow. So is it ok to use hose that's CLOSE in size (smaller) or should I get the correct sizes? What do you guys think of my theory? The short rubber lines on the carb assembly together cost over $50.00 on the internet (between Amazon and Ebay) and there's no getting the tank to pump/pump to carb lines on ebay or amazon So does anyone know the size of these hoses and maybe a place to buy them? Doug Anybody want to overhaul my carbs for me?

Yessir!

I tried moving it back in my vise, (a different side stand) and the ear broke off....so I think heating would be the best answer but I don't know if it's tempered or forged...I know guys at my work would probably know, heck I used to know... something about a spark test maybe....with forged or heat treated steel there is a real fine spark where as with steel or cast iron it's a coarser spark????

Hey Lonestar! I recently did the ignitec thing. I put the ignitec in the l/h fairing with map sensor, starts up fine! I did the coil over plugs thing too, very happy! I haven't messed with the programming that Gary did, seems to run great except that my pilot circuits (carbs) are plugged so there is no sense in trying to "fix" it until the carbs are right. Congrats of the up grade! D

Ok I get confused, some call the 86 to 93 (the 1300cc bike) the 2nd gen and others call the 94 and up the 2nd gen; so which is which? I need to know the minimum thickness of ther front brake rotors on a 86 and up. Thanks in advance! Doug

On my side stand; the "street side" eyelet (un-threaded) the bolt passes through is bent (toward the street vs the curb) so much that the bolt won't pass through to the threads. Does anyone know if I can heat up the eyelet and move it back into it's proper plane without messing up the strength of the steel??

PERFECT !!!! THANKS Lonestar!!!

OK I read the posts about mystery hoses but got no joy. Here's my issue: A (approx) 3/8" hose originating from a "T" in the line (approx 1/2") from the "twinkie" to the air box. See pics: Where does it connect (go)?

I have a known good 83.5 TCI and coils....

If you're going to use plumber's black ABS glue beware of using it in large quantities, apply it in small amounts and it'll harden better and more quickly. Large amounts may never harden all the way through as the outside gets hard but then the solvents can't evaporate through the hardened outer shell.

I found a pair of terminal cripers that do a good job on Amazon. I think they were between $30 and $40.00. I found them in the customer review section of terminal pliers.

That's where I got mine. Leather look on one side, smooth and shiny on the other. PERFECT!

Hook the compressor up to a battery, does it run? if it does your problem lies elsewhere unless you got a blown cylinder seal or some thing...run continuity tests on all your wires but remember just because a wire passes voltage doesn't mean it'll pass amperage....strange huh? Check for green crud in your wires, THAT"S what causes wire to carry voltage but NOT amperage...The older the harness the more likely corrosion has made it's way into your wires....

Hehehehehe

That thing on the end of your arm... I think it's called a "hand"; it has 5 extensions on it called "fingers", some one told me they are really the Mark 1 voltage tester, they work pretty good but there are better ways....I used an old spark plug and some insulated pliers, I put the cap on the plug and held the plug to the engine and hit the start button, didn't see much so I turned the key on and turned out the lights in the shop... hit the starter button again and presto!!! beautiful bluish-white spark!

You're the MAN Kevin!

Wal Mart has "dryease" or something like that. It was in a blue and white tub in Sporting Goods. It's used to keep campers dry...Scoop up what spilled on the floor, get it all together and measure it in a measuring cup, then you'll know how much you need.

M/N = MODEL NUMBER; VIN (Vehicle Identification Number). You may see Seriela Number expressed as S/N. Ask Dingy if my (MODEL NUMBER) XVZ12DKC2 TCI will work on your bike. If he says it will I'll make you a good (IT'S "AS IS" It works!) deal ok? So far as the expense of having a motorcycle, welcome to the club. Because a part is for a motorcycle, boat, Ski-doo, 4 wheeler, etc, the price goes up (IMHO) because it's for motorcycle, boat, Ski-doo, 4 wheeler, etc. Maybe it's because they don't have the economy of scale that car/truck parts have. After all cars/trucks need FOUR tires; not TWO. so they make half as many motorcycle (M/C) tires as they do car/truck tires.

Pics are way more clear. Something to do with the larger monitor and the pixels not being pulled so far apart I'm sure. You can score a 40" monitor on Craigslist or at Goodwill from time to time....

What's the FULL model number on your bike? I have a XVZ12DKC2 (83.5) on which I have replaced the TCI (with Dingy's) Ignitec that works like a CHAMP! My M/N is the only M/N in the 84 catalog....TMK (to my knowledge).

They are for mounting the factory (?) back rest in place. I have seen helmet locks at this location too.

3M has a site "www.3Mcollision.com. On it you will (eventually) find a glue for ABS, it is supposed to glue dern near anything to anything. I have high hopes for both the permatx and 3M products. The 3M stuff requires a special double barrel caulking gun that runs about $100.00 at automotive paint stores, the local jobber here will "rent" it to me for the cost of the gun and I can return it when I'm done.

I have a older computer in my garage and 40" monitor (Flat tv) connected to it. I have the downloaded Yamaha manual and the pictures are actually clear on the 40". I have the techsmart d/loaded manual. Save your money, it has sexy sound effects when you turn the pages and it comes with games. Otherwise it's the factory manual. It is easier to search (as the Yamaha isn't except by using "Control F" "F" for FIND) There is a section on general motorcycle maintenance procedures...