dna9656

I have a couple of bikes that have a pair of these switches, 1 set controls the search function of the radio in 2 modes I think; the other mute/ volume. If your radio works you're 1 lucky guy. If it doesn't your just as common as the rest of us! Those switches (as was prev. stated) won't carry a lot of current but can control a relay to do what ever you like. The secret function to the eject mode requires a double tap on one switch or the other i don 't remember now. Since some folks blabbed about the eject function many have been de-activated.

I remove the gas cap, lift the bike up over my head, then invert it while holding an open umbrella in the other hand. After it stops dripping I set the bike down and let the rest air dry. I hear throwing a lit match into the tank followed by a fast get away works well too.

Was that a FUNNY? 'lodged in the muffler is baffling'?

The bearings in the wheels have a maint. period; if they don't get lubed they will wear out and the bike is gonna handle funny so ck'em! If bad I recommend "balls are best" on ebay or amazon.

Kevin we need your savvy committed to the "How To" here on the formum. Maybe even in a book done in the electronic format....

I meant to say 'Dielectric grease"; and the grease being present and filling the insides of the plug won't allow water/humidity inside and THAT IS conductive and can make for all kinds of nasty problems.

See there; here's a guy that knows how to be a good friend! Like the guy offering the tools and the place to do the work and knows that what goes around comes around; you be nice to others and others will be nice to you

I'm making an implied statement; I meant to say "That's NO KIND of way to treat a customer!" and "That is LOUSY customer service." I'm not sure why we (the public) keep going back to HF. If Wal-Mart or Sears treated customers this way they wouldn't be here for very long.

WTF?!

Apparently you and I have traveled different roads.....the nastiest fluid I ever saw had a different source.... The TRANSMISSION in my son's '83 Olds Omega.....it was way to thin and Black as tar.

On my bikes A LOT of wind comes through the area fwd of the battery and aft of the triple tree steering head. I have been thinking on a good way to block or reduce some of this; maybe even re-direct it to the engine for summer cooling. I think just blocking it even a little would increase that summer time cooling (by limiting the places the wind can go) so needed to save the hot calf situation. I have learned to open the fuel door to let out some heat....the wind will keep it open...at freeway speeds and every little bit helps. The lowers are there because (I believe) Yamaha realized it's pretty hot on the legs there, but the air flow through the intakes, down the lowers and out the louvered vent is disappointing. The foam seals Yamaha had in there are either flat or gone all together right? Go to any hardware or decent department store and get some generic house door/window seals, with peel and stick feature. Be sure to clean all the duct work FIRST or your new seals won't stick. Get them a little oversize so they will actually SEAL as best as possible. Now you might get some actual air flow and if you don't want the air flow just put a rag behind the louvers!

Could be corrosion in the terminals, in the wires themselves; up inside the wire insulation where you can't see it. Could be corrosion on the circuit board(s) terminals. It's a REAL GOOD idea to fill all the electrical plugs on the bike with that grease intended for terminals who's name escapes me at this senior moment. I pull the plugs apart, clean with contact cleaner and special tools then I fill each terminal plug (M & F) just pack them full; then I push the 2 back together; grease comes out the ends but then the connection is as air and water tight as can be without replacement to the more modern automotive styles common on vehicles built today; and that my friends is a MAJOR PIA.

There are a LOT of Harley snobs out there. I run into them all the time. The last one i had dealings with Charged me $138 for a front tube install and mounting MY tire. and installing it on the bike. The bike in question is a '99 Yammy Road Star, basically a Harley knock- off. He said he used to do just HDs (ok fine; I have dealt with prejudice before) but he "opened it (the business) up to (metric bikes) "jap" bike because (basically he said because he was a nice guy doing us all a favor) the owners couldn't find anyone to do the work...yeah right. How about admitting you're too expensive ($138.00 plus tax for a tube and labor to change and mount a front tire?) and your location stinks, and you are going broke? No I didn't HAVE to pay the $138.00 but at that time I didn't know where to look. Now I can get a tire mounted for$20.00 to 30.00 if I bring in the wheel. Having mostly Ventures that's not a problem for me. I have a HF M/C lift that works just fine; as a matter of fact it has payed for itself with savings realized through doing the work on the stand myself. Those guys charging $90.00 and up to change a tire just drive me to buy my own tire changing tools; half of which I now have. Now my bike riding acquaintances want to use my tools for free. I mean they don't even want to bring a 6 pack over (friends would offer $ or beer) for the use of the tools and my shop so they can save (IMHO) the big bucks on tire mounting. I don't thinka 6 pack of anyone's fav brew is too much to ask....your feelings?

I know the feeling; I bought a 1.5 ton aluminum racing jack from them. I used it on an Olds Omega (curb wt was 3,000 lbs) when we did a front end brake job. When we jacked the front end up the frame of the jack bent. I took it back to HF, they asked if I bought the extended warranty, well; why buy an extended warranty on a floor jack; They last for years! Well the frame being bent didn't phase them at all. No extended warranty, no customer service. I said "So the fact that frame BENT means nothing to you? You see no safety issues here?" They should have recalled the thing. So I said "you know, a jack whose frame bends under LESS than the rated load is a GD problem! It's a hazard; and if that jack collapses while in use HF is going to be liable...not to mention some one being hurt or killed. The store manager acknowledged all that without blinking an eye. I left; leaving them the jack. The bike lift has given me no trouble at all but there are guys like you than have had problems with them. I have a friend of mine here in my area had troubles with his HF lift. I suppose he took it back; he never talked about again other than to say he went out and spent the big bucks on another (different) unit.

Well the part number for the rear shock for the years '87 through '89 are the same so there won't be issues there. If your bike is dragging the mud flap I'd say SOMETHING is pretty broke! If the parts bike stands up as tall as it should I'd go ahead and install the shock for it on your rider. I would follow all instructions to the letter given in the manual when installing the air lines. Before you button her up check for leaks in the entire CLASS using soapy water. Get a squirt bottle; like for condimentsand put as much water as you think you will need along with just enough dish soap to make some bubbles and charge up the CLASS and when the lines are pressurized squirt some of the soapy water on all the connections, seals, and hoses; don't forget the collars around the front forks. You may want to hold a rag beneath the areas where you work to catch the soapy water. Should you find any leaks you can take the next step(s)...

Well if it doesn't hold a certain amount of air at X psi for x time I'd say it's bad. But then you have to check the airlines and all the connections for leaks first; THEN if all that cks out you prob have a bad shock....

Do I detect a bit of regret, rancor, and dissatisfaction in the tone of your post?

Everything Great White says is Gospel, Let me say that I would not do this job without a motorcycle lift. The bike will need to be on the center stand of course, Once Ii have the bike on the HF lift I use a Venom frame jack to raise the bike up (to lower the center stand) then remove the frame jack. If I need the bike any higher I use (of course) the Venom frame jack again. Being a screw jack it's not likely to collapse but you can use a 2"X4" or 2"X6" under the center stand and remove the frame lift to get it out of your way. I would also like to add that using the manual and taking pictures because the pictures/diagrams in the manual aren't as clear as I would like them to be. I have my computer version of the manual on a 40" screen, the photos are much more clear but the diagrams are still the same and still don't show the parts very well so that's why I recommend taking pictures. Now if I could only follow my own advise!

My financial adviser/manager (wife) has NOT consented to getting another HF lift (the older item number) as it's on sale this weekend. I have to wait for until 2016. BTW I found this warning in my searches. I haven't had any problems with the HF lift I have had now for about a year. The original lift is item number 68892; this is the one you want. BTW HF's item numbers are not part numbers; they code WHAT the item is of course but according to the HF person I spoke to yesterday the number has more to do with the item's place of origin. http://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179641 http://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=48993

Update: Found the fuel pump doesn't work; I installed another one. Tried to start it again and the ignition stopped working. Got another TCI/coil assembly off the shelf, plugged it in and heard the dreaded "tinky-tink" sound of something metallic falling from somewhere (from the temp TCI assembly?) on to the engine or in to a carb. throat. Gee what are the odds that the mysterious part DID NOT fall into a carb.? I have HF's camera that fits through a spark plug hole. I found nothing in the cylinders or in the throats of the carbs. I'm pulling the carbs off anyway and taking a better look down the manifolds. I'm also going to insert a super magnet connected to a piece of safety wire into the cylinders too. I'd love to find something; that way I know i found it. Right now I got knee issues so it'll have to wait. Getting old really sucks.

I broke a boss holding one of the starter reduction gears while tightening the new starter/alternator rotor; so that engine is no longer any good. As a consequence of the motor being ruined I don't yet need another starter rotor. The "new" 83 sure needs one.

I got another 83 the other day; I finally got a chance to look at it for a bit today. The PO said they couldn't get it to start; claimed they didn't know how to set up the carbs...I thought they just didn't know where to find help on the Internet but I found some printed pages from www.venturers.org in the reef of documents I was handed, dealing with carb issues. I found a new fuel filter installed, right next to the leaking hose that runs from the fuel cut-off valve to the filter; fixed that. Was checking for ignition (spark) and found the fwd right cylinder didn't have any (spark) I deduced that it was the coil. I temp. installed a coil, said cylinder now has spark. Opened the carb bowl drain(s) and found 2 out of the 4 plugged. Pipe cleaners and Wal-Mart's choke and carb cleaner fixed that. I sprinkled a little raw (un-cooked) gas over the carb throats and hit the starter, she tries but no cigar. Deduced that the carbs aren't getting any gas. I figure the carbs are gummed up. Found the fuel pump doesn't work; I installed another one. I filled the float bowls with choke and carb cleaner and when drained I found watered down bourbon colored fluid in my catch basin. I re-filled the float bowls with the cleaner and am allowing an over night soak. OBTW (Oh By The Way) I got the "rocks in the valve cover" racket when attempting to start it indicating to me that the started clutch is FUBAR. Good thing I got Dan's Super Duper Starter clutch sitting on the bench. Anybody got any other ideas that would help? How's that?

I was going to post a wise ass remark like "What are "Road Kings"?" Cigarettes? Tires? Mirrors? Now I know they are some kind of muffler bearing.

Looking for a recommendation for tires for one of my 83s. A source with a killer price would be REALLY terrific too! Stock size please; 120/90/18 FRONT & 140/90/16 REAR. I have Michelin Commander 2s on my '99 Road Star, they are terrific! but they don't make them in both required sizes. I have Bridgestone Spitfires on the 83.5 and they are nice too...

Jya41r009ea001082 RED, xvz12lr Title says 1984. Not a Royale.