ffjoe
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Posts
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12500 miles is pretty much the end of my tires life. I would replace it before I left rather than worry about it the whole time. Sounds like a great trip! Good luck.
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Once again I find the manual lacking enough info for a lowly so-so mechanic such as myself to get a job done without help. Is there anywhere on this forum that has a good description and hopefully pictures that can take me through the dismantaling process of the front cowling so I can get to the steering head bearings which I need to change. The quick fix of tightening the steering nut was not good enough to remove looseness. Bought roller bearings from Skydoc for the job. Any help would be appreciated.
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Cylinders 1 & 3 intakes and 2 exhaust shims were at thier limit so I replaced them. I also did it at 26,000 miles and replaced some. You can only purchase shims in .005 increments unlike what you find in the bike from the factory. Better loose than tight. At least with valve clearances.
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I see he made the same observation as me, the cam lobes won't face away from each other at TDC. I just found that curious and wanted to make sure I didn't have an issue. Thanks.
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I'm doing my 52,000 mile valve adjustment. My dilema is this. The manual states that when #1 cylinder is at top dead center you will see the timing mark through the viewing hole and the cam lobes will be facing away from each other. Mine lean in towards each other. When turning the engine 180 degrees and so forth it all works out that when you hit #3 cylinder you see the other single timing mark so I guess I'm doing it right. I noticed this last time nd chalked it up to a mispraint in the manual. Anyone else experienced this?
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It took me an hour but I finally realized I had the parts that move when you turn the key put in wrong. All in all still a pain to hold together with spings and all for assembly.
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Actually I was wondering how the springs fit into the cap.
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thanks for the help. Now to find my magnet on a stick,
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Has anyone had their gas cap come apart? I lost a screw most likely in the tank that I,ll have to get out . The other was still there but really loose. anyway the springs in it came out and I wanted to know if anybody knew where they went.
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I agree that it's electrical. Between 1st and 2nd you have neutral. Maybe a short there in the switch. Does it start in neutral, if it does slowly shift up and down to see if it stalls. -
I bought a piece of aluminum bar 1" x 1/8 maybe, i'm not home to look at it right now. I bent it 90 degrees, drilled holes to match helmet holder holes and light bar hole so that it was sticking out where I wanted it. Did the same for the other side. I then filed it down, rounding the edges to make it a more custom fit, then polished the aluminum to make it all pretty.
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Sooo, today I removed the rear wheel again and sure enough, the drive shaft didn't mate, it was off to the side. But when I tried to get it in place it just wouldn't mesh. It was hanging downward and when I moved it, it just fell into the same place again. Long story short, I put it in gear idling and kept trying until I hit it just right. What a pain in the butt. Well it's back together and everything works. I've got a little less hair now but oh well.
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That would make sense. At least I won't have to read the manual to get it apart this time since I just did it. Huh, that doesn't make me feel any better! I'll let you know tommorow how it turns out.
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Thanks, I'm going to pull it all apart again tommorow. Thought everything slid in okay after I greased the splines. Maybe not. Correction,diffenitely not.
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What happened? I took off my wheels and had new tires mounted. Got it all back together, backed into the street, put it in first, but when I let the clutch out it bound up like when you forget to release the parking brake on your car. With the clutch in, or in neutral, it moves freely. I've done this before and never had any trouble. Any ideas?