baylensman

I remember trying to do donuts in the snow on my little brothers yt-80. dam dirt bike had too much dig couldn't get it to spin out! Of course my 275LBS had nothing to do with the traction at all

Can you drift a bike? hmmm that would be cool to see. someone on a V-max chasing Vaughn Gittin around the track with the back tire smokin!!!!!

but i love the snow! Cross country skiing, trap lines ice skating yes I did move to florida 30 years ago, but I fly north whenever i wish to indulge in winter sports. So far that's been exactly Zero times, but the option is there.

Wednesday night went to the local biff burger for bike night, and had a big ole pulled smoked beef sandwich and fries while sitting on the patio in my shorts watching all the bikes go in and out of the parking lot. Damn palm fronds keep waving and hitting me in the back of the head. Might have got down to 74 or so my honey snuggled up real close on the back of the bike all the way home:whistling:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think they would be using anything that could emit an big enough EMP to kill a vehicle, anywhere near an airport. Okay I will LOL. depending on the size and postion of the emmiter and its proximity to the item in question, yes there are devices than can do it. Most quick set up Military radar domes have a large stencil stripe about 10 feet off the deck with wording about danger due to microwaves. however at 50ft from the emitter the dissapation is enough to reduce the hazard. there have been documented cases of emitters at smaller airports (shorter towers) killing cars and Tv sets within a couple hunder feet of the tower. usually a simple realingned of the emiiter array takes care of the problem

allow search of three letter words please? like OIL! as in oil change, or NUT like in seat nut, both of these terms dropped the three letter word. got a zillion huits for change and half a zillion for seat.

I pulled heads and cyclinders in frame to regasket when they blew no easy but can be done, the frame on the 96 had a section that bolted in at the top, with that removed rear head and carb could be lifted right out leaving room to remove front head and slide it back and out

Sorry just down today. It is/was Dad's birthday, he would have been 100 today. Lost him 5 years ago and it still sucks.

I was susprised that this thread got so little response. I want everyones opinion on power adders they have installed. Did it work? Did you get advertised claims? was it worth it? ease of instalation? we are talking about yamaha v-4 bikes gen 1 gen 2 rstd ect.

even if it is broke it still works mostly kinda, so don't fix it!

didn't even get asked! went out to a new buffet place in town the other night with my sweetie. told the girls 2 adults 2 sweet teas she rang me up, i looked down at the receipt 2 frigging senior with free drink!!!!!!!!! Saving 4 buck each is nice but damn at least ask me

I went out this morning and it was 62" went right back in and got my gloves and leather jacket. guess winter is here

Try living in Tampa/St Pete and routing for the home team. I think our new coaching staff should be Larry Curly and Moe.

I tried to be styling and profiling one time. wasted a couple hundred bucks. gave the stuff to my younger brother. Go for what fits and has a quality rep.

i had the XS 850 special and loved it a lot. Only reason i got rid of it was the Ex (she wasnt Ex at the time) worried about people getting creamed on bikes all over florida in the early 90's, so i had to sell it. As far as handling goes when i switched rubber it handle realy well, i could dance it between the dashed lines at about 40 or so with no effort over that and i hit every other gap, but the middle gears were a bit wonky at times. always let me know when to change oil.

yeah i saw that i 'm going see a buddy and see if we can cut and drill some stainless plate and do the same for this rack

As I said in an earlier post I drained the goodie account and got it all. Here's the pics of it installed. What you can't see in these is the projector lights with Yamaha logo under the bags and the 14 6 lamp chrome led pods scattered around the bike. the last thing to do is the diamond R links, may try to get them done this weekend. all told about 6 hours work. a roll of electrical tape a couple of new drill bits (used self centering brad points) as i didn't want them to walk, a tube of Blue locktite some crimp connectors. Oh and bought the GF a new car

Even paying attention and having 40 plus year experience won't always help. the last time i went down is was becuase some car had puked about 2 gallons of fresh green antifreeze on the downhill slope of the interstate exit ramp. back tire went left front ite went right, i'm on my back doing 45 with my feet up just in case the bike stops sliding before i do. I still have that leather jacket by the way

hmmm it was on this site that the BLUE locktite was recommended to me for use on the plastic parts as it is plastic safe, now i'll have to get the small tube out of my parts kit and double check

got thinking (very dangerous) can i power the relay from the third switch, and have the headlight trigger it? that way even if i leave the switch in the on position the running lights would go out when i pull the key. switch is supposed to be rated at nominal 10 amps i think.

saw a bike at bike night with the curvey original bar didn't like the look the way the driving lamps tucked up next to the headlight and the curved bar just doesn't look right in my opinion. bought a cheap knock off straight bar and don't like that either. so i was just think of getting smaller (3") lamps and clamping them under and inboard of the turn signals

http://www.bigbikeparts.com/Inventory/Navision/52-605A?catalogNo= is the switch all of them have a common ground and power and yes they are lighted

been cruisin some of the other bike sites as well as here. has anyone done a no lightbar install of driving lights? i've seen some good write ups on the HD and Nomad sites but our turn signals mount a little differently. I put the light bar on, in person it looks totally different than in the pics just don't like it. thinking of goin back to stock and mounting the spots differently. Just wondering if anyone else has done this so i don't have to reinvent the wheel!

so I bought the tripple switch block that mounts over the master cylinder and ran the wire bundle down under the fairing and tie wrapped in place for now at the front of the gas tank. 1 switch is for driving/passing/foglamps whatever you want to call them. 1 switch is for the LED (seven pods per side) 1 switch for the projector lamps under the saddle bags. I want to be able to have the LEDS and projectors on with the key removed but not necessarliy together, but only want the front lights to come on with the headlight. So the switch block has a red wire to power (battery direct i guess) black to ground (easy enough) white yellow and blue to the accesories. So i assume i need a relay of some sort or would i actually need two relays? or is there some sort of relay with two inputs so that the lights would need both the headlight and the switch thrown to come on? i've wire in remote relays before but they always ahve had a single input or trigger terminal not 2.

so I got some chrome in and installed it, pictures to come. did radiator cover, front fender rails saddle bag rails and luggage rack so far. while I was at it i pulled every screw i could reach one at a time and but a little blue locktite on it ( i mean the ones that hold on body work and the chrome no engine stuff). My question is this, what is the torque spec for breaking loose blue locktite? some of those black metric cap screws have some thin spots on the heads and I'm worried about removal? I don't know what if any thread lock yamaha used but several of the bolts came loose with a decidedly load "CRACK" after putting a bit of torque to them with out them moving. We all know what would happen if we bear down on a screw head and are not perfectly square.