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baylensman

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Everything posted by baylensman

  1. baylensman
    Well its been a few years since I've run over that side of the state, but it used to be that US 1 or A1A you got to see a lot of the "OLD FLORIDA" I know that most of it is one big strip mall from Miami to almost Vero beach and then again from Melbourne to the state line, but there is still alittle of it left.
  2. baylensman
    yes i'll try and do it if/when i get home today. basically what you want to do is run the load/resistor across the lamp circut, not along the circut. Try this take the resister and run it from the turn signal hot wire to the turn signal (shared? ) ground wire not a chasssis ground. If you are doing all 4 (front and rear) only do the one circut (front or rear not both) We've discussed the difference between 1156 and 1157 to death n this post, I'll add another number to confuse the or solve the issue 1076 this is a twin contact single filament bulb, it is used where there is no or limited ground contact (rubber mounted lamps) the two contacts at the bottom are postive and negative, the socket is not grounded. Also one last thing, I remember my dad telling me about tail light wires, back in the 60 when he did Uhauls at the gas station. WHEN IN DOUBT TURN ABOUT!. trying clocking the bulb (s) 180' in the socket, in other words put them in wrong and just see what happens. do both lights go out? do both go steady? do both blink? does only the one circut light up? (what you have now). Does it work correctly? not impling the bulb is in wrong but the diagnoses (sp?) will help the rest of help you figure it out? Every time I read this post my brain hurts:bang head:
  3. baylensman
    like an earlier post, I had to read then reread, take notes and pull up multiple copies and I'm still not sure. First, did you at one point convert one end of the bike to LED (i.e did the front not the back) and are now adding the other end? Second, if you did convert in two stage which end was first? If you did in fact convert one end prior you wont need the resistor at the other end also I have an alternate diagram of how to hook up the resistor
  4. baylensman
    okay so the bike starts and runs! yea!!!! Oil is oozing not pouring out of the gap between the head and the jug. I've had the heads of this beast years ago. I even have a dealer head gasket in the tool box! If I remember correctly the only bear was timing it. There is/was a footnote on the one page of the service manual, saying that I had to rotate the crank or something when timing the rear cylinder, but that line wasn't in the main text. well waiting for the flatbed to arrive here. I guess my weekend project is all set! gonna do a cooling system flush and replace all the hoses while its torn down, and maybe take a stab at the neutral/side stand interlock (bike wont run in neutral with the kick stand down anymore) may even do the J -mod while I have the carbs off
  5. baylensman
    I've posted before about my son, getting my old bike. Well it blew a radiaotr hose a while back, he fixed then another blew he fixed that I informed him that he needed to change them all. Well he blew another one on the way to a remote location HAHA by the time he got it off the interstate it had of course gotten really hot. The bike stalled DUH. It is now leaking oil profusely. I havent seen the bike, its on a flat bed on the way to my place.....What am i looking at head gasket? or something worse?
  6. baylensman
    So I got the kit from SkyDoc back in Novemeber, I followed the instructions and upgrade the half disc to a full disc, and used the new spring while putting it together. What a difference!!! For about a week!!! Several of you told me including Skydoc that I'd be doing it again soon. Well pulled the trigger and ordered the new discs, to go with the upgrade kit. I'll pull it all apart and put in the other 7 discs, Grumble grumble grumble.
  7. baylensman
    Ground is ground is ground. Where its grounded is less important than HOW (clean and tight) it's grounded so long as the ground id sound... hey that rhymes! Thanks for your input!!! wiring cars bike and trailers since the 70's. I've seen weirder issues with electrical system! ( Mid 90's fords had to run a jumper ground wire to the front spindle, to quiet radio static) try running a seperate ground to the sockets. If it fixes the issue move the resistor.
  8. baylensman
    Try moving the resister. first don't let it share a ground with the lamps socket as your diagram shows. Second don't have it so close. mine is under the seat and the ground lug goes to a screw on the frame. you only need two resistors one for left and one for right not 4 you don't need front and rear just left and right, the resister is just there to trigger the flasher, as a last resort try with the resistor removed altogether some of the newer LED bulbs are resistance matched (check the packaging)
  9. baylensman
    I haven't read all the post so if I repeat I'm sorry. Your first thought "Class A diesel" So many have gone through the van, conversion,van, class c, class A gas, Class A small, its the way Big RV dealer's make money$$$$$$$$ every time you trade up the take a bite out of you on the trade, and they soak the next guy coming Along by waxing them up cleaning the interior and throwing on tires. Gas may be cheap but I've seen the big v-10 and v-8's boggin down going over the rockies, some even turning around and detouring 100's of miles to find a lower pass. CLASS A DIESEL PUSHER, PREFERABLLY WITH A FREIGHTLINER FRAME AND POWER TRAIN. I've heard some folks rave about Allison trans with CAT motors under the awnings at night. Follow the recommended service intervals and 300K + miles without a rebuild is common, You want a drivers exit door, hydraulic leveling, on board generator at least 13KW, Basement style storage, Minimum of 32 ft with at least 1 tip out/slide out, three is better yet. The CUTE area over the drivers head as a bed is worthless it will quickly become attic storage! The longer you are gonna use it (weeks per year) the smaller it will become, trust me. There are several "rear Porch" models that have a storage area behind the living quarters, that is only accessible from outside with room for a few bikes depending on what size some are even enclosed now almost like a shed or small garage. Several of the folks here in the local park, tow a pickup behind the R/V which allows two or three dirt bike or 2 quad runners, in the pick up. one guy has two dirt bikes with a rack over the pickup holding a 16ft aluminum boot! as far as trailers, most folks seems to hover around 24ft beaver tail models, for towing toys. A few locals have 32ft trailers tricked out to match the RV, the problems there are ground clearance and turning circle, not backing up! You gotta find what works for you. Your list of possible toys to take along is impressive, I've seen folks do it, mostly those who drive from here in the winter to somewhere else in the summer and stay put. Folks that really travel cut way back on the toys, One good touring bike, on the Rig, towing a car is in my opinion the best. Believe me when you are 150 miles from nowhere in either direction, waiting for Good Sam to bring a tire, a second car to haul the tire your self will feel so much better. (6 hours sitting a rest stop is not restful!!!) Do a lot of looking and tire kicking, DON'T RUSH INTO IT!!!!!!
  10. baylensman
    well "The Lensman" is the first ever space opera Sci Fi series of books, written in the 40's by E.E. Smith. I've read the series dozens of time over the past 40 plus years. My first email address was "lensman" and I used it or a variation everywhere on the net. 1st lensman, gray lensman, ect. My old ebay handle was also lensman, one day about 10 years ago in the early stages of ebay, we all had to change our ID's because of something so since I live in tampa bay , I added bay to lensman or baylensman. So that became my new internet handle, its my email names and log in name at bunches of sites and forums
  11. baylensman
    first aid
  12. baylensman
    doing some checking and measuring. Gonna try and hit the bone yard first and see if there's anything "off the shelf" that may be close. Several aftermarket bars I've seen look like they may be close. Also in conjunction with taller engine guard or front crash bar, would a larger (comes out a little further and taller) rear bag guard be beneficial. I'm thinking the two guards working together may keep the big at a higher angle when dropped. This serves two issues, older bigger guys who don't fold so easy in the middle (like me) won't have to bend as far, also may help reduce damage to bike, rider and passenger
  13. baylensman
    the one function I miss the most was the old TODAYS POSTS and NEW POST buttons
  14. baylensman
    Seen in testing at Yamah test track. Already have a scooter (twist and go) version on the streets in japan. also have a test mule based off an R6. Could this and the multiplane engine be the reason for the big delay?
  15. baylensman
    i know that it's brake fluid . told him to clean it right away with soup and water and wrap a rag around the joint, to protect paint. fluid coming out lever side according to his description.
  16. baylensman
    I don't know about wider bars but taller maybe? or maybe taller and they get wider as they go up ( see some of the new victry and other bikes). First it helps protect bike and rider in event of unnatural contact with pavement. Second if the bike can't or doesn't fall as far (wider at top) you have less distance to pick up. I've been thinking of the same thing myself. I have a friend who bends smaller stainless up to 2" tubing in his shop. Added advantage of taller wider bars, more place to mount lights and cup holder (see harley)
  17. baylensman
    So I did it this weekend. put the E3 on. I have to say its wonderful! having changed the rear tire about 1K miles ago doing the leveling links and now the front tire. I just don't understand why Yamaha didn't do this right from the start! the difference in handling and "FEEL" of the bike are just incredible. If these bikes would have come with better tires and the suspension set correctly from the factory there wouldn't be as many used bikes out there, and a lot less in accidents. Now if riding the bike made my gut shrink it would be perfect! LOL
  18. baylensman
    Boy child called me. Bike is jumping out of first gear. Told him to start in 2nd a feather till we look it over. Then he call's back and lets me know that flid is running of of the clutch master. ARRGHH. I have a rebuild kit coming for the clutch master. Don't know if thats why the tranny was acting up or not. Any advice on either issue would be aprreciated. Both my son and I ride bike as primary transportation. So if it goes down he's down.
  19. baylensman
    I think I found the issue. on the rear shock mount that the back bar of the adapter rests against. there's the tiniest bit of weld slag that doesn't allow the cross bar (extreme left in photo) to sit all the way against the frame.. So I take my Dremmel out to get at the slag, while I'm there the sun hits the right point and the overflow from the tank/carb I (filled up on the way home from the tire shop) spits gas down about 1 inch from where I'm gonna grind!! So get the drill and gonna make the adapter holes go from 3/8" to 1/2" and the dang battery goes flat. Time for a beer or three and gonna watch Star wars on the DVD....... I ll fix the adapter tomorrow and detail the bike.
  20. baylensman
    I have the tabs, but no notches I can see where notches should be if it came with notches. I'm thinking of just elongating the holes in the rear tabs on the adapter. As the image (I hope) shows its very close
  21. baylensman
    No notches on mine and yes its from carbon one
  22. baylensman
    well I changed the front tire yesterday, I have an issue with the lift adapter. I couldn't get the holes to line up If I pushed the rod in from the right side (brake) through I could get three of 4 holes and missed the last one by half the diameter of the rod( Might have been able to force it) if I tried from the left (shifter) side I could only get two holes, no matter which way I moved the adapter around. Is there an adjustment (grinding one of the tabs) or is there a trick I'm missing? its funny I've had the adapter almost a year and haven't needed it till now. With the GF out of town was gonna fix tire last night (done) and detail the bike today (if I can figure this out) i'm gonna subscribe via instant alert so if anyone has an idea it'll shoot right to my phone.
  23. baylensman
    Emgo Universal Mirror Adapters - Motorcycle Superstore try here
  24. baylensman

    clutch4.jpg

    baylensman posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    clutch4.jpg

    From the album: carb

  25. baylensman

    clutch3.jpg

    baylensman posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    clutch3.jpg

    From the album: carb

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