baylensman

If the rig continues to wonder a bit after the wheel bearings are fixed. on the back side of the steering box. there is a big screw with a lock nut. back the nut out 1/4 turn or so and turn the screw inwards. you'll feel the cage "LOAD" up, don't over do it! your just taking the slop out of the cage around the sector shaft. usually a half turn takes care of it.

Hey Puc. go over to that there new fangeled Amazon thingi the got a visable v8 and a visable wankle

My solenoid on the older bike(96) was mounted in a rubber widget to help with vibration. nestled between the two cables was a little plastic hat on top of a fuse. if this fuse blows you'll get one click and all your lights will work. p.s. my battery sits at 11.9 volts right now and starts the bike fine.

Having a history of working on classic cars a few things that will help you and any one who comes after you on this project. (who knows you may sell it for a Flycycle) On most things you should be okay. Except the CASS wires! would have to check, don't know if disconnecting them will give a fault code or not. Whenever you cut a wire from a stay-con or PLUG always cut it far enough back to splice and replace if necessary, and label BOTH ends! A lot of wires can just be unplugged and looped back and secured in a bundle in case you ever want to go back to stock. (or the next guy might) Crimp connectors are so convenient but are prone to loosen up at the wrong time. Solder and shrink wrap makes for a long lasting "FIX". Plan ahead, are you putting on hard bags that may be lighted. ever need to pull a fender? These places may benefit from a generic 4 pin or 6 pin stay-con set from the local auto parts store. I added LEDs to my bike and didn't plan ahead! Had an issue changing the rear tire, I had to cut and add a stay-con to the system, adding about an hour to the tire repair job!!! Above all take your time identify everything , try to avoid cutting until you have done several trial fittings and testings. Does light work now and after everything is bolted down? A few inches slack in a harness is a wonderful thing.

Ha ha. Caught a misspelling there. yeah a glass engine would be neat.

all readings were with the horn disconnected. I tired both wires as is with key on and both with key on and horn button depressed there was no change at either wire under either condition. I assume with the volt meter attached to battery ground and the red probe in the stay con one wire or the other shut go to zero volts with the horn button depressed. The evidence that leads me to the short theory is that the LEFT horn inside the fairing is now much louder and the tone is more consistent

I've seen a lot of that in the automotive field and in small glass engines when i switched job. Its a guvmint thing. supposed to stop us from adjusting things to avoid emission standards. It usually take about 2 years for ( special wrench or screw drivers to hit the market and circumvent the reg's. I've seen D's, double D's, 5 point star, half hex, offset oval and a bunch more since around 1971 or so. The last Lawn mower Sold had a Briggs 7.5 torque engine it had three different screw heads on the carb adjustments. Screen Shot 2017-02-06 at 9-1.46.24 AM.pdf

Best wishes and hope for a very quick resolution your situation!!

What he said!! My 86 was a screamer. Just keep the rev's up. Only full fairing bike i ever had that could pull the front wheel up on a punch!!

Previous post shows i've been having issues. Well i went and bought the "Wolo Bad boy" that so many have recommended. I tried to do up my own bracket but not having access to shop anymore; my vise, hammer and clamp attempts left a little to be desired. Well I ordered Larry's bracket, Its is what i was trying to with some cold roll and a hammer. I also followed his instructions as to setting up the relay electrically. I ran into an issue that may explain why the factory horn on the right side didn't work. When testing the brown wire/pink wire( both where dusty and hard to tell what color. I use my trusty volt meter. With the key, on both leads had battery voltage (11.92 guess i pushed it far enough that it needs to be replaced oh well 10 years on the stocker aint bad) So I have two wires that came down into single push on connectors, that were attached to each other with 2 peices of V shaped plastic so that they would push right onto the horn contacts. The question I guess is where in the harness would there be a short that lets both of these wire have 12 volts with the key one? Now the voltage doesn't change when i hit the horn button on either wire but the left horn in the fairing, now is much louder than when I had the old horn connected.

Sky doc++++++

A single-grade engine oil, as defined by SAE J300, cannot use a polymeric Viscosity Index Improver (also referred to as Viscosity Modifier) additive. SAE J300 has established eleven viscosity grades, of which six are considered Winter-grades and given a W designation. The 11 viscosity grades are 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60. These numbers are often referred to as the "weight" of a motor oil, and single-grade motor oils are often called "straight-weight" oils. As shown above the W is for winter when its present but it is for weight when its not? freaking engineers. from my research the test is a measured qty of oil is poured into a funnel with a standard sized orifice at the bottom. At 32'F (water freezes)(winter tempearture) the oil takes 10 minutes to flow through, a 20w oil would be 20 minutes and a 5w oil would do it in 5 minutes. so 10w oil takes ten minutes to flow but 10 w-30 is a multi weight oil meaning that it lubricates (stick to metal) but flows like a 10w in the winter. Basically modern oils should be using DTMS designations, just like small engines should be torque rated not rated as Horsepower,and household vacuums should berated in CFM not AMPS Marketing types have figured out how to use various standards that no longer have a meaning and make us believe product A is better than B. a 20w 50 is not twice as good as a 10w-50 it simply refers to its flow rate at cold temperatures Horse power on small engines is RPM dependent so a Briggs and a Honda shaft drive lawn more engine can have the same torque with a 21" blade but Brigggs rates there motor at 4800 rpm as 7.75 HP while the Honda is rated at 4500 RPM as 7.35 HP. The AMP rating on vacumm cleaners is the max amps the engine can draw at a given voltage before it ceases to run (read explodes) However ever if motor is turning a 2 bladed fan with a 1 in 3 pitch and motor 2 is turning a 3 bladed fan with the same pitch it, Motor 2 moves 50% more air. Damn pitchmen and advertisers always screwing things up Now you guys got me throwing stuff around, yelling at my computer and foaming at the mouth.

I always thought "W" was for Whoa thats some thick stuff.

My ex father in law had this set up and drove the wheels off it. He had one issue with that chassis high altitude operation especially on his annual cross country run if he took the northern route through either Colorado or Montana. If you go more southerly the passes are a few thousand feet less in total elevation One of the old high-altitude tricks to get some of that horsepower back is to really advance your ignition timing. On big V-8s, we used to advance it to the point where the engine sounded like a coffee can full of rolling marbles if you drove down to sea level, the engine would ping so bad. It was bad enough the last time. He said " i'm to old to get out and crawl around and change the damn timing to get to Denver, I'm buying a diesel. well the diesel was 20 years newer and had computerized fuel injection, but of course that wasn't the issue to him. So other than though he had for like six years with no mechanical problems, he had more issue with the diesel. I do recommend getting a "good sam's" card because when you need a tire in the middle of nowhere, its nice to have that price guarante!! SO IS THE FRAME STIFF ENOUGH IN THE BACK TO ADD A LIFT FOR THE BIKE? THATS WHAT I'VE BEEN CHECKING LATELY.

the Warrior was the one with the huge Muffler right big 4 into 1 pipes with what looked like a rattling gun for a muffler? I'm really looking for a Fuel Injected bike. I guess i hit cycle trader and start research on various nearby cheap units.

So one day this Middle aged woman says to her husband " the kids are gone, the house is well kept,,, i think its time for you to go to the doctor and get those little pills so we can have sex like when we younger" The next morning the woman walks into the kitchen an sees a new bottle of DIET pills on her plate. The still haven't found the body...

BUY THE EXTENDED WARRANTY!!!!!! My brother bought his at the Daytona Spring show from a local dealer there. He love's it i mean he rides the heck out of it. His Cross bones is sitting in the garage covered up he likes the "ULTRA" so much. He even take the bike to the grocery store even if it means two trips on a saturday. The new pickup the company bought hime is for going to work and back only now, and he "sneaks" the bike in on two or three Fridays a month on that. He crosses the state of Florida, 180 miles one way almost every other weekend. He's been on round trip to New jersey on it. Did the Dragon. Drove to Key west. Multiple bike runs here and there. In that time the gripes came apart twice (the rubber). over 12 updates to the Harley software. Blue tooth unit went out Shifter broke inside, the trans somewhere. then new motor (yes new) not rebuildable something came lose inside and he had 1000 miles left on the warranty, that was back in April he and just clocked 35,000 miles in the 14 months he had it. Now the good, he had the original rear tire replaced when he had the engine done so he got 35K out of it. It gets phenominal fuel milage he usually gases up at every other stop when riding with us. The overall fit and finish is incredible. He can talk hands free at hi way speeds on the blue tooth. That bike has a lot of giddy up when we get silly, (its the first Harley I couldn't out run), the engineering is awesome it still has that iconic Harley sound and engine vibration when sitting at a light, but some how it doesn't get to the driver anymore!! Oh and the key fob!!!!! not having to put the key in is freakin AWESOME. The headlight, well theres been posts here about guys fitting that system into the RSV. The saddle is lower!! Just all around an incredible bike. Now i'm sure any bike ridden that hard would have issues. Especially high speed crossing of the state. now yours is a model year newer so some of the kinks may be solved in production updates. I'm just saying is that is one heck of an investment, and if you fall for it like he did you may be putting a lot more miles on it than you used to. Its great piece of mind!

So I love my bike, but I miss the speed of my old one. I can't buy a new Raider right now, and I want to keep the 07 RSV till I retire and then get a new tourer, so I'm stuck building up a used (read cheaper) bike. I've sat on and test ridden a dozen V-Max units,I have to say it is the most uncomfortable piece of engineering i've ever ridden, its definitely not designed foxy 6 foot 280 lb frame! I've adjust bars and pegs to no avail, i really wanted it to work. I had a 96 RS, that i did throw a windshield mount and a pair of leather bags on. I added a DYNA kit and a complete Super trap Header and muffler kit, modified air box, retuned the carbs to match, hotter plugs. ect When i flicked my wrist it moved!!! I don't want a crotch rocket, I like the "Classic" look of the street cruiser and the way you surprise the "stuffing" out of guys on crotch rockets when you just blow them away at a light. Does anyone have an experience with "waking" up a the V-twins? I'm open to any brand Kawaski, Susuki whatever. How about high speed stability? The 96 felt very comfortable with the speedo on the pin. The reason I'm asking about V-twins other than Harley is there seems to be a lot more off the shelf "Mods" out there for the genre and therefore a bit cheaper choices. So has any one else done anything similar or bought something similar? Recommendation and model to avoid?

This comes as no surprise. Stock holder news letters and factory reps have been talking at this subject without coming righteous and saying it for at least 2 years. What is interesting is the chance that the "Octane", "Cross Tour" and "Vision" may see new life as models under the new LOGO. The issue has been, R&D as well as tooling for two different platforms. Just as mother yamaha decided to close out the "Star" line and bring those bikes back under the crossed forks. As far as the future of the "Slingshot" and others? Indian logo on the slingshot is a long shot, However don't be surprised to see the "Scout" name badge on a quad with in the next year. There may also be some names lent to the snowmobile division as well as the Watercraft division.The buying of the "indian" name was because it took so long for the Victory name to gain traction in a piss poor economy, and now they are going to push just one cart. I for one would have prefered to see the Indian line under the Victory label It seems the winds of change are blowing across corporate america it could just be timing of the long 11 year economic cycle or the change of resident at 1600 Pennsylvania ave. I advise everyone to perk up their ears, both the two wheel and four wheel industries are going to see significant changes in legislation to allow more rapid deployment of new concepts to the street.

So if fresh tracks mean they just went by does that mean if there's NO TRACKS they'll be here soon?

UNIVERSITY OF MONTREAL!! YOU CAN'T GET REAL BEER OR REAL MEN AT LEAST NOT 100 AT THE SAME PLACE. Sorry guys just couldn't resist. I do like our Northern brothers and sister, it was just such a big opening:2143:.

1973 at3 125cc 1976 dohc 500 cc 1983 xs 850 cc 1986 venture royale 1996 royal star "a" 2007 royal star venture

1. Never talk about religion or politics with family 2. If we can't be civilized lets agree to disagree 3. You are entitled to your opinion as i am to mine, even though you're wrong.

I remember those days when I lived in PA. if the temp hit high 40's we took off our coats and ran around in tee shirts, but when i moved to FL back in '91 i was that way also, I'd go to the beach in February i never wore long pants, and never turned the a/c on in the car just kept the windows down and enjoyed the weather. took about 5-6 years till I go "acclimatized", now I don't go in the ocean at all and i avoid the pool if the solar collectors don't have it up to at least 90" . My Girl friend moved down here from the frozen north about 6 years ago. she still wears short sleeves every day to the office, and never has a sweater let alone a coat. Just this year is the first time she's felt "cold" on a few of those sub 50' days.

So my wife comes home from shopping with a new dress for the party. She's grinning like an idiot and says "wait till you see this new dress the pattern is so slimming" well she comes out 10 minutes later wearing the dress and says "see it makes me look better honey" i replied " yes dear your not near as fat in that one...." thats when the fight started