jsb777

Two pics to show you what I see. One viewed from behind looking down past inside edge of hard bag. Second pic, made from the floor, with the wheel on the right. After reading some of your replies back, it is sounding like the appearance is normal. However, the noise, on slow right hand turns is certainly not. John

I was planning a long day ride yesterday to Crater Lake, and in my pre-ride inspection, I found the right side swing arm nearly off the rear axle. There was about a 3/4" gap, with highly polished axle showing between the swing arm and the wheel. Placing my finger into the swing arm, at the pinch bolt, I can barely reach the remaining end of the axle. Looking at online parts diagrams, the non-threaded head of the axle has obviously broken off. Trailered it to the dealer yesterday, where 3 months ago they replaced rear rotor, caliper, brakes AND...a missing collar on the axle. When I purchased the bike (used w/30,000 mile) last July (2013), the previous owner had just had 2 new tires installed. Any suggestions/guesses as to WHY the axle would have snapped off? The last couple of weeks I've been hearing a "bell like sound" only on slow speed right hand turns. It sounded like a loose bolt against sheet metal. Now I suppose it was the flex of the wheel along the axle or the swing arm moving. I consider myself very FORTUNATE to not have had a catastrophic wheel failure at some point over the last few weeks. My thinking (and hope) is the dealer will take care of it all, since they were last to have their hands on rear wheel, axle, brakes, etc. Your thoughts? John Eugene, OR

11/16/2013 Update to my message below posted 9/18/2013. Finally got around to fussin' with the too soft (or NO pedal) rear brake. Son-in-law and I bled them manually (pumping the pedal method), taking about 10 cycles of pump/bleed to keep pressure. The test drive resulted in pedal pressure/resistance and working rear brake until the next time I rode it (very next day). Result: 1st attempt is always the same...ride, brake, pedal goes to the mat with NO braking taking place whatsoever. Pump, pump, pump and pressure will build and hold UNTIL the next 1/2 mile (or so) application, then same thing. Borrowed a Mity-Vac (metal frame/handle etc) from mechanic at work and bled them myself this time. Again took about a dozen cycles to get air removed and fluid flowing into the canister. Result: Same as before; test ride is ok; bike sits overnight and upon 1st application of brake there is NO braking. Pump, pump, pump and pressure will build...and you know the rest. I have no leaking of fluid along the line to the caliper, no LOSS of fluid in the reservoir, and am at a loss as to where to turn. My thinking is there is a crack somewhere allowing air into the line and thus no loss of fluid. Seems to me the opening would have to be ABOVE the fluid level (i.e. the cap/diaphragm???) or there WOULD BE a loss of fluid. I just don't know how to proceed... I don't want to just start replacing parts (the whole rear brake line and master cylinder??) without actually diagnosing/knowing what the problem is. Thanks! John

Syscrusher & Squidley, Thanks for taking the time to reply. Our first big storm of the fall is rolling in Friday. I may take this on this weekend. I know about the speed bleeders, but what is the "bag & tube?" Are they from the same vendor? I'll post a reply when done and let you know how it worked out. Thanks again for the help!! John

11/16/2013 Update to my message below posted 9/18/2013. Finally got around to fussin' with the too soft (or NO pedal) rear brake. Son-in-law and I bled them manually (pumping the pedal method), taking about 10 cycles of pump/bleed to keep pressure. The test drive resulted in pedal pressure/resistance and working rear brake until the next time I rode it. Result: 1st attempt is always the same...ride, brake, pedal goes to the mat with NO braking taking place whatsoever. Pump, pump, pump and pressure will build and hold UNTIL the next 1/2 mile or so application, then same thing. Borrowed a Mity-Vac (metal frame/handle etc) from mechanic at work and bled them myself this time. Again took about a dozen cycles to get air removed and fluid flowing into the canister. Result: Same as before; test ride is ok; bike sits overnight and 1st application of brake there is NO braking. Pump, pump, pump and pressure will build...and you know the rest. I have no leaking of fluid along the line to the caliper, no LOSS of fluid in the reservoir, and am at a loss as to where to turn. My thinking is there is a crack somewhere allowing air into the line and thus no loss of fluid. Seems to me the opening would have to be ABOVE the fluid level (i.e. the cap/diaphragm???) or there would be a LOSS of fluid. I just don't know how to proceed... Thanks! John Is there a test or process to determine if a master cylinder IS failing (or has already failed)? My 2005 Midnight Venture (32,000 miles, of which I've only put on 600 since purchasing 2 months ago), seemed to have very little rear brake. I thought the rear pedal felt very soft. I checked the rear fluid, and it was clear and at level. Examining pad thickness, I thought I might do the brakes myself, as they seemed to need it. I've never attempted a brake job, and eventually talked myself out of it, opting for the local dealer to do the rear brake. The first 3-4 stops were "ok" but I still didn't feel I was getting enough "brake" for the pressure applied. A week later, the pedal bottoms out very quickly, but occasionally seems to have good pressure. My previous bike was an '05 1100 Silverado, and I felt like the rear brake really had some bite to it. I am aware (and use) the front brake does the bulk of the braking, and am pretty much riding my 800 lb. Venture around using the front brake and gearing down. I've also read about some people having trouble bleeding brakes on these bikes (2nd Gen?) and the service guy let it slip the mechanic spent a couple hours trying to get them to bleed properly. Only the rear were done this service. I just don't know if a) there is still air in the line, b) the master cylinder is bad (failing), or c) is there some other component I should be looking at. Thanks for any insight you can shed on this for me. This fix (going to attempt it myself) would MORE than pay my recent $12 joining fee!! John in Eugene, OR