Patch

I found this suspension tuning guide/lingo I think many of you will like. http://www.mrcycles.com/custompage2.asp?pg=suspension S/G

Thinking if this is just a sudden event, I would compression test 1st, warm engine 5 rotations if that shows well or at least even Peder schedule is the way to go. S/G

Petder thanks for post the video. I have done quit a bit of work on my bike and was disappointed when this started to happen, I only remember this experience once before on the 1st mono swing arm 500 back early 80s. Here is my VR experience over the past two weeks, new Shinko tire 120klm felt like the rear was running on ice, after 300klm on them they settled down, on the Q2 here in Alberta last week- now have 1500 klm on the tires I went to pass a double tanker on the HW when the weave hit hard and fast at 125klm, now had some weight in the compartments a little heavier on the right saddle, I am light weight eased up and backed off. Same ride say 800 klm later, less wind I would only get a mild weave at 130klm nothing else changed but the extra milage and the wind. I like the tires mind you there sticky wet and dry quiet too, so I will monitor her behavior near future see what if any changes. Now I have to tell you I checked the brace for loose fit or cracks when I parked that night, having already checked the swing arm! I've had my old Cade way faster with more load in the bags and trunk never experienced weave, it has the super brace. S/G

Hi Mralex, the thing is you have good diaphragms if you were to stiffen the springs you would only slow the opening of the slide as for the closing of them that would be mute. The springs are simply a balance between low pressure and high pressure. You didn't mention your compression results and the reason I asked is as you know the other side of that is expected vacuum, for example are the valve seating are the rings sharp enough to vacuum enough so that the CV carb's can work within there limits. Now heres one for you, my son and I just did a small road trip and before leaving, he road the Kat 1100 which we have played the carbs many times with different configurations, he was saying that the rpms weren't behaving well and that the milage seemed some what off, but that the power band was strong all the way through! So pull the air box ran the carbs through there paces, heres what I found the number one slide had the lower washer/bushing that the spring seats to incorrectly placed and acted as a shim, like lowering the needle clip or seating the needle high. So what I expected when I saw the gas jetting through at under 3000 was a worn needle or seat that would be what you are refering to with your thought of stiffening the spring seating the needle with more pressure. If you don't see gas jetting out or a "wet ring around the jet at low rpm's then there is no problem there, if you do than check needle for ware or out of round jet! Tracking down poor milage isn't easy but the compression results are a good place to start, next is valve lash, when that meets the bench mark then you tune the carbs accordingly. Hope this helps you figure out what is a miss with the bike. S/G

God that there movement is controlled, or you might need more then springs. Springs are a tuning nightmare if you needed to then if it were me I would make sure they are exactly the right part #. Like Flyinfool said clean inspect them and roll the needles on a clean flat surface, again I use wd for that and a lint free rag. S/G

Evan did you check the o-ring's at the solenoid, there are 3 back there under the trunk/seat. Also if there is oil in the fork air line you will get a false reading when you air them up, and it will appear that you have a leak but not necessarily. S/G

if it were I experiencing this problem, I would remove the carbs using small drill bits I would measure the gap between throttle plate and housing 1st what is the gap and are they=, next I would remove each slide clean them with wd and a lint free cloth, I would roll each needle one by one insuring each is straight with no ware they should be shiny each should be reassembled the same, if not then let the group know, last I would change the gaskets for each manifold I would suspect them as a likely cause. put all the caps back on the vacuum ports. By checking the position of the throttle plate with the drill bits you will be starting the bike with synced carbs, it's rough and only the 1st setting of the plates but thats a must, after that you sink to the pressure differential by syncing them at rpm. That's how I do it and I do it often, I also use a vacuummate unit "I love that that thing" you ruled out the enricher! S/G

My experience would say no. why do you need to change them? have you done a compression test? S/G

Riding for many years, many bikes, many friends, many shapes sizes some with- some without the common courtesy of a roach I prefer to ride alone now or with my boys. As time has passed I have mellowed towards other people (s) spoken aloud thoughts that would better serve the privacy and echo of their own minds. I have also raised two boys now men, mild mannered respectful adventuress, aware that not all youths road their trails! I believe in this would lay their future protective response to such an experience to their protected ones. We are who we become because of what will we have had to overcome, and the will to move forward; I have come to believe firmly! So make peace with it, accept yesterday, if we want respect we need to respect others and what makes them, them, we don't have to be their friends accept their judgement's or even remember them! May the voices in your head be happy ones;) enjoyed the post, thanks S/G (Patch's)

Thanks dingy, I just found that out while tracing the lines back, I have never come across this before! So regardless of the cc volume, inches decide! That is what I've done in the past just wanted to be confident based on Venture rider experience. S/G

Hi guys, I'm combining two questions in this post looking for a short cut to solving front end problems! 91 Venture Royal 68000klm one owner sat for about 10 years: I have been going through the bike cotter pin to cotter pin, have found and fixed many small items like suspension controls, control panel, suspension pump and solenoids (oil found in front solenoid) all is working well with the system NO ERAS; read many post about fork springs and hate to ask but, 410cc gave me 8 1/4 r/fork 9 1/2" L/fork I top them off to "equal" 8 1/4" by adding about 35cc then added 30 cc to each and finished of with 7 1/2" on both, left fork having 475cc right having 440cc! Would your experiences say for this bike I made the right choice? Next not sure on is front brakes, wanting to change out fluid I hooked up my gear to the right cal till I had a clean flow, but the left will not operate, I pulled the cal and it is operating fine NO sticking, it must be from the spitter. Is there a known problem up there? Thanks Guys S/G

Thanks stanG for sparing me the same fate of luck; seems like if it's not women steering our luck it's our bikes;) For next time though you might try this: 1/8" x 2" spring toggle you'll need the 2", move out of it's seat the 1/2 round cup bushing inside the casing, ( we r adding a rattle but) drill a 5/16 hole at the base of the stand between the two mounting holes ( a little tricky as the stand is angled) insert the toggle screw I added a star washer for bite through and past the original factory thread, assemble the stand remaining cup bushing and rubber boot' add a touch of grease not much to the cups, screw the spring toggle on let the screw thread go pass past 1/8", pinch and insert the toggle into the mirror housing, insert a small driver through the same 5/16" hole as you passed the screw head through tighten up move it around and tighten till working well. If it were to loosen some day and you used a star washer you should be able to re-tight a bit by rotating the mirror while on the bike or maybe grab the screw head with small pliers set while you rotate the housing but it's a small thread don't over do it!! see u around S/G

Mirror issue: snapped the retaining screw seems simple enough to repair if I new how to remove the mirror lens, without braking? S/G

Thanks guys I found the problem tonight easy fix, tires are next. S/G

Thanks Dan, out of curiosity is there a sticky on rebuilding the front shocks, are there known issues? S/G

Hello everyone; Just acquired A 91 Venture Royal low mileage (67000KLM) one owner bike. Known issues were "shocks don't air up" and a couple electrical bugs (fixed), the best description of the fork during my 800klm homeward is there is no shock absorber period! So I followed the manual for adjusting the shocks after arriving home and managed to air them up seem to work I was not able to bottom them out after which, but they seem too mushy! 24 hours later I checked the monitor it read .08 however I could bottom out the front shocks just rocking back and forth with out much effort! Question is folks for long distance peace of mind what does your experience suggest for a fix right the first time? Thanks Side issue regarding windshield and wet weather, would some argue for cutting down the windshield below eye level l for wet night time riding, I prefer full face helmets for touring. S/G