Patch

kneeling down on the left side of the bike, looking at the carb caps, move the small black vacuum tube by pulling it forward and out of the way- cast your eye past the stainless U-shaped clip, just to the right of the cable hub, you see a slotted screw! That is the screw you need to turn, 1 turn, then start the engine, let us know if there is a difference in the RPM and then the temp. See the pictures below:

A couple days back I used my Vacuummate for what you are describing, they are pricey but a very good tool, they double tap when between 50 lbs and Yamaha approved, whatever that means. Can some buddy please tell me how Pairiehammer knew? Patch

Mr. Pairiehammer, Boy was I pleased to see your post this morning! Yes I uploaded the 86-93 last night; man was I frustrated trying to find ---how you knew that Reed was for the tail! Where man- is it shown? Fork! Was thinking about removing the Reed and either cleaning it and dipping it ,or just making a new one; but if you think a jumper will do the trick, easy enough! I just took a look at your fuse box, I used the same one 4 years back, on my 11000F, it does have a solid bus which made a deference for our coil issues we were having! However the casing cracked so I replaced it this year with another that saves you from testing fusing, as circuit will light red when one blows. The one I picked up last night is not single bus type, I thought I'd stick to the existing format, but using the small ATC 's, it's large enough for me to get everything into one box. This box won't fit over the battery -so I started to fab up a small stainless bracket last night. The ground bock is a good idea and I should incorporate that into the bracket! Pairiehammer posted "It appears the Reed Switch (RS3) has a FUBARed coil. The coil when operated normally creates an electromagnetic field; that electromagnetic field opens or closes the reed switch. I think RS3 controls the tail light. IOW, it senses when the tailight bulb(s) are burned out and sends a signal to the CMS to warn you." Now, please, why do you know this??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? Patch

Thank's again Kevin, I looked last night on the forum, searched for -repair manual, came up empty! Now I have a good PDF manual but the schematics are shaded, I'm on way over to download. I think I read the fuse as 14.7 so 5A high, hope that'll be the end of it??? After reading your reply to my OP I ran out like a mutt chasing a ball, LOL went to get a new fuse box, going to remove the extra back lighting and splices I've found around the tail and clean things up.

Right on man! I was going through the bike yesterday and found my tail was out, fuse blown! I could use a clearer wiring diagram than the ones I have! Thank's so much man I'm hunting down a short;) Well at least I know where to start Patch

Any thoughts on what is seen in the pics below? I measured the coils they are all in at 0.1 I measured the resistors they are all just under 6K Thank's

If you were planning on starting a parts supply, the inventory would have to be at a low enough upfront cost to handle and cover your time and storage. If you were thinking of repairing and flipping them, I don't think you'll see much if any return dollar value? What are your thought's in making the purchase?

Not sure if I am the intended target to your question? I could look into to what it would involve; problem with me is I think fast, walk fast, ride faster, spell slow!

Perhaps a glossary like "proven Gen1 upgrades" where one can look up mods with a brief description of the benefits, with links to get started? Take the Vmax head mod for ex. at a glance what are the benefits, and where would we find the posts to get started? I know the answer, do a search

Glad to hear you're ready to join up, old bikes need their forums, and forums need members! If you are having problems hit the contact admin link, you get a quick response there! The information you provided regarding the vacuum is helpful, as is the fact that is cold. You will see it warm after running it for a while because of thermal transfer- and that is likely the only reason it warms at idle. I think you mentioned earlier, you have checked each for spark? Post 23 Oh, and all cylinders getting warm. Will re -start on choke immediately, 20 secs take off choke, and idles at 700 rpms. TO LOW! Start the bike and have a good screwdriver ready, within 1 minute of starting it turn the linkage screw to the right/tighten one turn (1 turn) JUST #1 carb! You should pick up RPM, Choke is off! Now if you have seen RPM rise then we're on the right track, read the temp, shut the engine, wait 15/20 minutes, start again and check the temp on 1 & 2, I use the exhaust casting flange for this and always at the same place for a more accurate reading! Let us know! Don't panic here if your revs go a little wild, we are just trying to see if #1 pilot circuit is off or blocked! Find smoke problem. Don't wont to over heat right rear cylinder. Have started 3 times and let run for a minute, until smoke starts, then shut off and cool again. Top two lights on left, on control panel, are on. Looking them up now. Thanks all!!!! THIS IS WRONG, the bike needs to get to operating temp! For a couple of reasons, it hasn't been run for a long time, there is seafoam............... PS. get a shop fan for working on the bike, aimed at the rad, keep it running except when reading exchaust temps

Miles, here's a thought- if you by a project for a $1.00 spend another $1.00 to complete it, sell it then for $2.00, for me its hard to believe you are only braking even? Most of us that take on project bikes do so as a hobby, a place to hang our thoughts, parking the pressures of the real world, trading one therapy for another more rewarding one. Is this a bike you want? Is this a project you want? Do you have the time for a project bike such as this one? What we have going for us with the Gen 1's is this forum, what ever the problem is, it has already been addressed right here- written out in detail with part #s and sources. That's a plus for any Venture any where in the world! Membership has it's privileges, I would start there- if it is a Venture you are looking for- then find one that best suites you. Now to this particular bike, the coils according to you are not delivering spark, but as I understand it, the bike is not in your possession, so how can we help you diagnose the problem? Can you check for power at the coils or the PCI, the red/white wire and get back to us? Patch

Man I wouldn't be able to sleep not knowing compression results after assembly, of course only after breaking in the rings counts for a real reading.

Thanks Gary I followed through updating my profile, also Gary I read up in the site library came across you switch right ups well done, wish I'd known of them 2 years ago on my first time in them! Back on them as of yesterday as my cruise slide isn't as smooth operating as I'd like it. I agree with #4 , also I'll admit both my son and I were embarrassed by the results of this years engine tests results, and some of our comments made after taking the few rides we had her on! Really not like us to run our sport toys 1/2 up. So now after a couple hundred clicks (Canadian term for distance traveled in KLM) I am going through the bike again sorting through some miscellaneous stuff! I reset my carbs yesterday and managed to get the pilots sweet spots dialed in, also temp checked the pipes at the castings, always same spot all the way round, all withing 12* F, 208- 220 F, paying close attention to maintaining 1/3 up on the dash temp gauge, just as a bench mark eq results! Edit: I could eq the heat ranges before at all The sync had changed as expected! The engine now is as smooth, more smooth then I could have imagined, it's also quiet, all the way through, I love that, not a tap or stumble out of place! So worth the effort we spent on her, sorry but just got to say a real "Yah Baby" moment:) Out here we have in rural districts with H/W lights for bedroom community traffic, man can she ever leave a light behind for a large class tour er. Surprised my son as we never pull against each other (that would be bad parenting;)) he must of thought there was a semi comin up behind him when I let loose; he headed straight for the shoulder as I blew past! still LMAO Also I have to say at 950 we can here her silent power as she rolls through her cam lift, pretty nice setup Yamaha! I have had some time to experience the mod made to the windscreen, 1st there is almost no glare on the dash now, 2nd like the breeze and, I can easily cruise with my visor up at 130 no problem, most of the lift is still in play! You might not expect this but the blacked out area presents a subtle view from my riding position; all in all it worked out! Going to bite the bullet and re-solder the air control IC and this year started the fuel empty error. Patch

Right On!

Flyinfool, Would OP be able to pinpoint or confirm this by binning his ear to a driver against the cap while engaging the starter?

Sorry about the KLM piece, not sure why I was thinking Canadian bike?? Found this PDF for the starter, I haven't needed to work around mine so not sure if this is the only or best way! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?80775-Starter-Replacement http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1060-Starter-Problems

You mentioned the fuse box is a mess: is there power to the coils?

Wanted to ask this, have you noticed any bubbles in in the coolant? And after changing the rings how was the compression? Finger crossed for the Bars, hope it works for you.

Well agree with both of you, however the 88 with 40ish K and likely if a Can bike, means its in KLM -would be hard to comprehend that engine not ready to roar with some TLC! This year we pulled an engine off a super bike that we bought some years back out of QUE. it took 2 hours to get out and same to swap over, the prep work took a day, actually an overnight soak was it. The one we pulled was due to cam limit and stretch bolts, my boy wanted to ride asap so that was the goal. It will be a rebuild project over the snow months, his bike is set-up for him so swapping over made sense, although the other one is in nice condition! I mention this because we know you have that low mileage engine, and like I said earlier that's amazing to have! Still early though, your project is just getting started.

Regarding the valves, either way you should do a compression test on both, and that could go a long ways in helping you decide which bike rides 1st! I've never used mystery oil but have heard good things about it!For general knowledge it is best to soak contact points, valve seats rings have a long history of sticky shut. A valve seat has give or take a 1mm seat after cutting, then lapping then mileage, so the more seat the more stick, the more pressure to free it, that's where the stem can be most at risk. Also and again generally speaking seats are a softer material so usually there is a benefit to pre soaking them. You'll know better after a compression test. The starter suggest it's been through hell, the fact that it seems to work fine with no load means it time to pull it. Still I wouldn't try starting either right now, if it were me: I would pull both sets of carbs pull both set of plugs poor you mystery oil down through the intakes let both soak for a day or so check the brakes clutch lights clean the electrical connections see if the suspension airs up clean one set of carb, the easy ones, get to know them Then disconnect the small plug on the side of the frame bend, about 6" above the fuel pump, I think its a 4 wire???? you will need to cut the tie wrap then pinch it and separate it, now the pump is inactive. Blow the cylinders out with compressed air and with WOT already there, because the carbs are bathing- test the compression Now here's the old guy in me preaching to you Dad, you don't want to put your Queen, on the back of a bike you haven't combed through, final dr has to be checked, torquing the axles, check out the steering, lots of work to do, so why rush the engine. That's my thoughts F

I did look at the pic, looks like what we see is gasket material or some stop leak that backed up to it?? The thing is, is for you follow through with one application! But the engine needs to reach operating temp, and often for more than one pressure cycle! The solids must too locate the "say fracture" so a pinhole will plug quickly, a hairline will need to fill completely, likely it will take longer for a fracture, as there are X parts per LT of particulate! Know what I mean; so how quick it will work depends on what the problem/fault is, for those that are inpatient -and add and add, well that makes its own- new problem. As for if you could find it you would do the right thing; I have no doubt, finding it- when it's internal, well now that I know is doubtful- and is why we use Bars! Remember we are talking because you have already opened it and changed all that needed changing!!!!!!!!!! Patch

In older aluminum engines rebuilt or not, it is common practice to use the Bars Leaks. This has been a persistent problem for you I guess, if a leak is what is happening, it could be from a hairline or threaded passage; lets say by some chance you find it, then what? Unless you missed sealing something or a rubber part is worn, and or like Marcarl suggest, over flow, then I would use the Bars! I prefer the old formula but its seems hard to find now, Bar's know what they're doing, have been make a good product forever. If you had a major leak then.... http://barsleaks.com/product/liquid-aluminum-cooling-system-stop-leak/ SG

Moto_Boy Here's some experience you can use or leave where you found it. 1st thing I would do is except that one bike will be a parts bike "for now" you will still have the parts to refurb when the riding season is over! I would start a log of which parts you are swapping over. I WOULD NOT rotate a water logged engine, PERIOD! I would soak it with your choice of solvent, my choice would be 50/50 seafoam & kerosene! This will speed what the kerosene will do on its own but would take a longer time! The rings will pay the price of working through cylinder wall corrosion, and you run the risk of packing the lands! You then will not be able to build compression! Also after the carbs are off I would fill the intake pipes to soak the seats and valves rust will seal them and rotating the engine can bend the stems. These projects move faster when we move slow and sure! Water in carbs equals water through and into cylinders! My experience says soak for 4 to 6 days while you go through the bikes! Even if the engine was not seized I would still do the above. Sg

"its my mind and hands that I have trouble with !!! " Well, that's a crowded boat man;) time does that to fellow! Picking up tools is a mind set, first, no point placing a tool in our hands till we first make a plan. I should add this to my post, my Venture this time out rolled into our shop Monday noon, was on the road Friday morning with it. I too tend to split my time between riding and fixing, sometimes I'm told by my son; "let's just ride Dad" he's right Kinsmd there comes a time to just wipe the tools and spin the wheels! So adding more seafoam to the bowls, what's the plan, what are you looking for as a result? Have you thought about doing a compression test? I know you bled the clutch have you changed all the hydraulic fluids? Have you checked the brakes for proper operation? Have you checked the steering stem?

Miscellaneous stuff: yes there usually is a cup or 2 or so- extra in the crankcase when I idle it during these test. It serves me to keep it in there; I will also run through all the gears usually twice during the warm ups. Yes Fogging with Deep Creep can help avoid the above stuff if done yearly or regularly like before oil changes! Will this fix worn rings, or pitted valve seats? No it won’t. Can carbs sync to out of spec cylinders, won’t they work fine? Yes you can sync them, providing the carbs are in good working order and there is enough vacuum pressure at the range you are looking to sync them to. “Will they work fine” Can you be more specific please? LOL So as I mentioned this is for the good but neglected bike engine, regardless of size or brand name. If I had to choose between 150 or 190 PSI on this bike, I would choose 150 PSI. Standard on this engine is 171 PSI Limit is 143 PSI Think about it, that's a high limit for a minimum operation Maximum 199 PSI #4 was close because of what I found in part one How did I know I could achieve these results? There are clues we find, we mix with past experience, and we go for it! The results will vary engine to engine; beating the minimums should be the goal. How many times have you heard "I would be caught dead riding a motorcycle, to dangerous" yet we do, it is our sport, well this is another side to this sport! Bummer I forgot to mention the first ride: expect smoke for the first 20 minutes of highway, and the H/W is where you should run it for the first ride. Also as early as possible run the bike in 2nd gear to 4000 RPM then close the throttle fast, do this about 3 times no need for higher RPM this will apply a solid pressure action on the rings, as they are still damp from the soak they will likely displace carbon from the piston lands; best to do this right out of the barn! SG/Patch's This is a very pleasant forum by the way, I read till the wee hours yesterday, well managed and well supported! Old bikes need there forums to keep them up and running...