Patch

This is an interesting problem? Things that can be confusing like full or easy rev with no load..... misleading. So we need to rule out the simple stuff, the intake clamps are not interfering with the carb linkage? to know for certain you need to inspect the action while twisting the throttle, make certain the linkage runs full open. Next full pump pressure, it isn't enough to say, we have fuel, we see fuel, we here the pump, that's fine when we are looking for a no run situation, but leaves doubt when figuring a high RPM problem! AS is tank venting! Please allow me vent for a moment>>> I have a problem on one cyl of six cylinder on a pretty sophisticated engine! This is my daily ride, my never let me down, absolutely reliable tun the key and go car! I built the fuel system for this, I pulled plugs after 80K and found them to be in perfect condition except for #6 , these are sequential fire 2 plugs per cyl. One cylinder tells two differ stories when I read the plugs, however they are both suggesting cold combustion. So I decided to check compression, well in all my years I have never had such a confusing result. Cutting to the point the readings on the one cyl are all over the place, so my mind says mechanical, right? But then why would one cyl with 2 plugs read completely differently- that is to say two different stories on the same cylinder are told by the plugs? My compression test suggests spring failure, whether its a lifter spring or valve spring. The only thing I can rule out for certain is that it's not the compression ring; and I had already ruled out wiring based on the compression result; now I have to think I have more than one thing a miss here!? This problem is relevant because it proves we need to rule possible causes off the check list, if we allow mileage high or low to rule for us then we start to chase our tails! Fuel pressure is important, also and maybe not likely is the filter in the right way? When you disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the port does the idle change? Could the tube be faulty? Patch

There are times where the answer is- remove the carbs! It's time to remove them, they need a closer inspection! Then they need a bench sync! Patch

You may be right but does this sound like separated boots? Patch

Recently did some wiring on mine and Cowpuc nailed it, because of the mild corrosion we found in the old wiring we could not get a proper joint without the flux! Patch

I've never work on your model, all I can offer is some general direction, you need to check for spark at the plugs, you can do this with a timing light, a spark tester, or by removing the plug and grounding it to the engine or bike frame. You should see a crisp, blue spark that we say (crushes) if its not blue report what color you see. NEVER hold the plug or wire while testing, its high voltage. Of course we assume there is fuel in the tank, after spark we check to see if the fuel is making it's way over. Maybe someone can chime in as to potential of over-voltage to the black box on this model? Patch

So Beau- a couple of things, as you know the slides are steadied by a bring counter force, if the boots have holes then you can do a quick check by gently siding them with a finger! Now here is what you want to look for, SMOOTH action, slow steady as you push her in and it should run as far the the bore itself (flush to the wall, not beyond) DO you feel any BINDING- any at all? Next when you remove your finger from the piston, does it move completely back to the resting position, EVENLY and SLOWER than the pressure of the spring? I think your link refers to the boot twisting, and usually where you'll find cracks or holes! Now for myself with a high rpm rev problem, I think, "filling" or "advance" first;; so for me I would do a compression test. I prefer to do it when CV are off but it's not necessary. The results and the cylinder suspected cyl & corresponding numbers would be helpful. What are you using to check the pipes? How many minutes after start time, my 1st readings are done after 2 and completed within 4 minutes. Where on the pipes are you measuring? Patch

" Looks like those carbs will need to come back out, looks like I did something wrong." I think that is the right thing to do, while it's off make sure the pilot circuit is completely clean on that one carb. I have had to pull fresh carbs before as well, it can happen to anyone! Patch

Doug, often times when combustion tweaking is shared we see it only to be dismissed by wives'tails. Octane is Octane, it is not a detergent, it is labeled as a rating, sometimes we see it as - Regular- Mid grade- Premium/Super..... 85 to 100+, detergents added to fuels are to deal with the "before and/or after" combustion; unlike Octane which has a direct effect on combustion! "So far as I know MOST gasoline sellers have a super duper cleaning additive that will return your engine to "like new" performance." Surely you don't believe that marketing hype?

I did a mileage check yesterday, also did some conversions: Here's my base line: compress 170 x 4 NO vacuum leaks all 4 are as equal a tune as I can do 188 KLM took 12.05 LT 6.38 LT per 100 KLM conversion: 62 miles / 100 KLM takes 1.68 gallons U.S. if you divide that then the ans is 36.9 miles to a gal. I would expect to see 38/40 if I ran a long trip east of the Foothills. Regarding octane, I think we are on the same page. Higher octane use won't serve us well on these bikes, the burn will be too slow, which means we can't extract the energy potential. For those that don't quite understand this here is a simple explanation: compression causes heat, (it also causes spring like pressure)squeezing a stoichi mix (bare in mind the back pressure from the last cycle cooling effect) now add in the BTDC say 8* then ignition, the combustion starts while the piston is still moving up to TDC, and this helps to mix the stoichi and the planned flame shape that is extracting the heat or BTUs from the (mix) stoichi! This process causes the expansion pressure exerted on the piston in a downward motion! The burn time is critical! Now the above is a simple explanation at low RPM. But add more ignition advance- I think these are up to 40*ish BTDC for high rpms which happens in order to allow enough time to complete the burn cycle during a compression stroke, think about it, it's not a puzzle everyone enjoys I get that! One more thing to add into the mix, liquid cooled will be more resistant to moving up in octane, when other ratios have not been changed, unlike air cooled engines which run much hotter. Patch

JT had an earned bad rep, you needed a suitcase of bad attitude to deal with him. I was in OMS picking through carbs, what a freaking mess! I do know lots of guys use the HD on a variety of old touring bikes. Like everything else compromises are called for. I saw on KIJIJI 2 Vs -one for 1200 ish and 800.00 might make for good parts bikes? Not sure if you ever run up to Bragg, if so call and we can hookup, I saw this up there during the week LOL Patch

Had some intermittent stuff going on with my cruise, here is how I just fixed it: I removed the slide switch set/acc cleaned and also had to square up the metal housing for it, there is a good Dingy on that. Then yesterday while on the road I pulled off and added to small washers (like pop rivet washer) to the spring on the clutch handle, slip the spring off then place the washers on, reinstall the spring. There are likely other ways to do this but it took all of 15 minutes, after which I was able to use the cruise without fail. I keep a kit in the trunk, like a small tackle box with all sorts of stuff for what-nots along the way;) Patch

I see the dilemma!

Spring can play havoc with me too, I turn to technical studying, every March I start, usually read myself to sleep takes a couple of days every year to get back into it, then that becomes my fix. It always amazes me what we forget, personally I think it's related to hair loss? I took to shaving what was still growing, hoping that what I read today won't fall out with my remaining hair over winter, but naa, I know I'll have a fresh slate next March:( I remember anger, While I find it hard to fear most things, I have learned to fear anger, anger seems to grow out of the darkest of moments, it dictates our every reaction, as we look to clam our anger we think to crack the bottle, for but a brief and fleeting moment it appears to help, life will be so much better after we begin seeing it through the bottom of a bottle- again, I think anyone who has traveled that highway has already found the truth and knows to stay off it, he may be best served to, look himself in the mirror and say, Hi my name is...........and I am............. and I choose to live a peaceful life;) because a man has a past, does not mean he has no future, or that his present will be easy

I don't weld stainless but know others that do if you still have the old ones. If you find some up in Rocky Mountain let me know I run up there often, I can relay for you. GW, finally closed, off of Black Foot, the old bike yard??

As we started with mileage or the distance we can travel on a venture, which as Suzi learned in 85 is very important on a touring bikes; getting fare mileage means for one, keeping the bike in good mechanical condition, and using the correct fuel is also very important. If we run an octane designed to burn slower than our combustion design--- then we are wasting a portion of the stoichiometric ratio. If we need to run any conditioner on a regular bases, we are running out of tune! That is why I agree with GW and the old-school thinking. Much of the spring disappointments we have with all our bikes is improper storage, which is when we need to condition the fuel to prevent the carbs, filter, pump, tank, lines..... from gumming up.

Wow! Start with the gas mileage, I aim for a station around 180 klm, if I only get (and it happens) 220, I've been riding hard, I expect 280 out of mine. I recently use Freebird's post regarding the sender maintenance, worked as prescribed! Mileage is elusive, and is maintained only through proper maintenance and a couple of other things, like using the correct octane! I've posted in other places some of my experiences fooling with combustion, I've had my share of looses, also a couple of wins. Octane is timing, when you know the correct math that says X then you stick to it, then tune around it. GW is right that is what we were taught, it went like this, first find it, then disassemble it, confirm it, chem it, measure it, meets spec/doesn't meet spec reuse or replace it, re-assemble it, test it, close the order, onto the next it! That does not mean that today there isn't a cheat for the "it's" because there are plenty, knowing their limitations though is as important as is the cost savings of the inexpensive fix -it is meant to be! Seafoam does not cause oil to disappear, in mans world that is impossible, but a neat idea. It will liquefy hardened oil deposits though, it will dissolve the varnish that may cause a gate needle to stick shut and where ever else it reaches varnished areas, if soaked long enough it can dissolve as in liquefy, then to be burned off and ejected out. Works wonders for removing gunk out of the bottoms of thanks, fuel pumps, fuel lines, because it tends to soak making for a fare system conditioner. You all know I use chems, more than most, it took a while to find what worked, when to use them, what to expect, sometimes I win and sometimes tearing it down it the only option. For example: can someone please explain how seafoam can unblock a carbon close off pilot jet? Someone mention fuel injector cleaners, there are 3 main types used in gasoline engines, I have never seen anyone make a positive impact on any, ever. Patch

It's nice to read you know the compression, and 160/5 is very good! Displacement is not always a faster bike, rather should mean stronger bike, like a touring bike needs. Our 750 while quick can't hold a candle to the 1100's quick!!! Our 1300 VR will push through hills much lower than the 1100 revs and with less vibe, and of course more comfort. My old 1400 though is still my favorite over all- long hauler bike, like an old tomcat in a butlers suite:) I can tell you as my slide boots are patched, I find them slow, anxious to replace them!

If you are certain the carbs are in proper working order then you need a compression test, also make sure the ignition advance is hooked up. Mine was the same before I worked on it, had no passing bower, what it did have was flat, wasn't able to run well in 5th much. When you use water to test the pipes, when- and after what do they steam? They should not steam, they should blast/boil Patch

I would try this: Fill the bowl through the drain, take a peak inside the barrel you want to completely immerse the float, meaning over filling, usually you see some back flow into the barrel when this happens! Then rap on the bowl, if that won't free it the removing the cap is next.

Thanks for the comment, truth is guys I sweat every post every forum! At the lineup for languages, their proper use and spelling; my thought's must have been on the ladies, so I missed out on those gifts the angles were equipping innocent souls with -and- by the time I landed here on earth I hit the ground falling out of a wheel chair, in an elevator, on our way to....! I mention this laughing as I was reminded often there was no slowin me down! Also my thinking and spelling go hand in hand, I like to keep it simple;) Back to carbs, nothing wrong with shimming the needle providing you know the base line and are aiming for an objective. If the tubes are worn, replacing just the needle will deliver disappointing results, and visa versa. If you are ready to shim start with the potential for success, start with a good base line, then adjust, remember most of us do this by the seat of our pants. Dino testing show results based on pre-programmed inputs; seat of the pants testing is scaled by a grin, and feedback, that works for me. The other thing I might add is, the CV Carb is a unit that must pull together each circuit, one circuit will influence the next one above it. Now we often fault a carb before knowing other base line requirements, like compression and vacuum, if they are out of spec no amount of carb fiddling will get you the performance you may be looking for! So Kevin was helping me with some electrical stuff, after finishing up I took the bike out for a short spin. Now I have a slight flat spot, not sure how, but I know it must be Kev's fault? Of course that would be a stretch to blame Kev for his help, so the fault falls back to me, or does it? Some of you may know we had an intruder who made it a point to visit each bike, we had 2 open at the time, I wondered????????? Not Kev, can't be me? Must be the intruder! So I call this a W.T.F. moment, right there on the left, you guested it choke was slightly on, turned it to off and flat spot gone. Back to base line, can we solve a problem, can you shim or tune without knowing the complete picture, no we can't-- not properly! Of course I know we can always go buy 10 horses in a box, but extracting those ponies from the barn they arrived in, that takes a dino to prove and special lighting:) Patch

Have you thought about letting it run on straight sea foam? Not my preferred way but might free the blockage? You would know if it worked by monitoring the temperature. I would leave enough in the bowl for an over night soak. Patch

"Gauge normal is +\- 1/3 off the bottom. After an hour or more ride gauge creeps up to slightly over 1/2 and idle vacillates to between 1.8 -2.4k and fan is coming on. I'm still in the first 500 miles after purchase." I don't see a problem with the above? A question I do see often though in many forums whether bike or car related. What I do see is a need to connect the high idle to the mid-range on the gauge, so lets do that. Like Kevin said, vacuum leak. Which also perpetuates heat! You need to get all the tubes properly hooked up, then let us know what the results are. If you had not mention not reconnecting every thing I would have pointed to the likely cause being intakes boots leaking! As the engine heats it expanses so if they leak it gets worse as the leak grows, and the rpm will hang high! Not sure if you are referring to the PCV tube that connects to the bottom of the air box? If so remove it completely install it to the air box then drop it through the carbs and connect it via (very long nose pliers) at the bottom, note the shape and position it is in now, also check it for cracks. Patch

I'll likely come off somewhat cynical but here are some thoughts about re jetting. I am not a fan, I liken it to figuring valve timing, with a stretched chain. Of course there are instances where jets are simply wrong or the cause of poor throttle response, or over heating; usually for us we find this in some random melt down formulated by some brochure for a slip-on and intake filter for a magical 10 + 10 HP gain promised if we re-jet? Of course we also have to spend Dino testing dollars to prove the manufactures less than truthful when they slipped the hard earned from our wallets; kind of like the 2nd mortgage needed to tour with a HD although I've heard one can now without the need of a trailer following, I wonder? So I like GW wouldn't re-jet unless after riding for a while and the existing setup proves to be a problem. It may just need a pilot adjustment as you mentioned the pull seems the same. I enjoy predictable power and reliable muscle climbing a mountain road on a touring bike. A note about shimming, what works for one carb may not for another, this is mostly due to wear. If experimenting is on the menu it is best to start with fresh needles and tubes. Patch

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