Patch

I'm just going to throw this in as well... I would likely want to know if I am reading any positive pulses. The thing is it should be easy to understand if there exists some hint of high pressure in the circuit I am measuring, such as spring float or seating! Back to VM, I can tell (allowing for VM cal or lack of) if the strobe is high scale or below scale this will indicate issues outside of carb sync.. Just a thought Patch

"I use a little math to change that range into something useful." That is what I was asking, thanks for taking the time. So I see "your focus market" would benefit from the tach; in the end after sync we do need to set final rpm. So I get that there has to be something to the time writing in code. In my minds eye I have a picture of what the unit "should" look like and I'd want the tach and all small enough to pack in my toolkit - not something I would do with my VM. Keeping it simple I found an option, and would require a simple clip to ignition cable for field.... Cheap too, just riveted to the casing! I haven't looked in the MFG but you should before branding with your name.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hour-Meter-Tachometer-Small-Engine-Spark-For-Motorcycle-Boat-Bike-US-STOCK-/331086473062 Patch

I may have taken for granted that we are all familiar with soldering. If you aren't comfortable with doing it you can bring it to a TV/radio repair shop, easy quick and cheap.. Or there may be a member close to you?

Of course you could use it on just about any vacuum sync. I guess I should have put the question this way: is the reading dampened or will (as the pic shows above) pulse say 25.3 .5...? Does it round up or down to the nearest full number?

will your display flux say by .5 back and forth or up/down to signal to look past the sync????

Pouring a coffee while thinking through the question... I went to reform school but... Trade schools look for projects, usually they ask for cost of material and a description, then send the problem up to drafting and in the above post, it would then go to the Tin Bashers trade classes! Think about it, its easy to make the phone call Patch

Funny thing about casings these days is, we forget how simple it can be to just use metal plate! So not knowing how to soft switch, essentially you are looking at counting pulse on #1 ? Funny thing is, when I use tach side of the VM I do so only if I'm tuning for a range. Say If I need a band at a set rpm, or suspect issues at x rpm. That said I really don't see it as a very important feature!

Like Carl mentioned that needs to be top of the check list. Here's a post by Don http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?32359-Ignition-Switch-Wiring-Failure

I have used the vac mate for many years now, I really enjoy the experience each time I pull it out. You likely know it has an additional feature which permits guessing at valve seating or pressure leaks. Nice to see you have continue to develop this tool. Long term what are you thinking, if that not a marketing secret? Patch

I did mine 5/6 years back, I used the shell and built up with modern foams, then layered with angle hair. I worked out quite well, took me a couple days to sew up the cover though. I used the old one removing the stitching to use each panel as a temp.. I don't have a close up Patch

I completely get what you are saying. If I have provided reason enough to pause then its up to you. I can tell you that swapping cams even when you don't fully understand duration and lift, is less difficult by far, then any magic bullet you will find when it comes to fuel ratios, charge, velocity and, keeping the fuel mixed in gaseous state by the time it travels that length. One of the issues is, velocity can separate the fuel mix? This happens in part because of friction and gravity. That post you referred to was experiencing such but- below operating temperatures (he mentioned). It was both an experiment and experience for him and likely he will or has grown because he took the chance. Or maybe he did achieve some success? My experience would suggest that these torque band efficiencies were developed around injection systems. (true we had high rise way back but we couldn't claim efficiency) Injection easily allows for moving the heavy sticky fuel ratio as close as possible to the valve chamber where mixing accrues quickly, at predictable temperatures and where the stochie charge is then split and vortex'ed through the twin valve chambers; then into the combustion chamber, distance traveled is minimum! Go figure;) Bore & stroke x rpm range are important factors to consider, you would likely want a variable intake system to handle moving towards WOT.. (even if you don't plan going to WOT we are always pulling in that direction) In short its not that you/we can't, its more what is the gain and or reliability and outcome for a touring bike... Having said all this I saw a while back a setup for sale on a link here through ebay or parts for sale??? 5 or 600.00 I've been wrong before Patch

cleaned and solder all of them.

A couple of things. 1st ohms.. You didn't mention what or how close the readings are to what is suggested. At the moment it may not matter. Next would be to isolate the circuit, meaning measuring ohms at the other end, where it connect to the dash! This is important to troubleshooting, in general.. For the moment, take a very close look at the photo you forwarded. Open it in your file on you desktop focus on the 9 pins which is the internal signal transfer from the plug connection. What do you see, I think pin 6 looks good? maybe For the light I need to look back at the diagram later tonight or tomorrow, usually or often there's a relay.. ride safe Patch

I was wondering if you were going to bring up the torque puzzle;) In this case my experience says not going to happen. But I do like the question and you do have a hint at length and torque but you are missing no less than 2 parts to the puzzle. If I just blurt it out then you will only have another piece, a better understanding of "what" flows will really bump understanding. Pick your favorite example of improved torque and visualize all the components and where in the system they are located. For the last sentence simplify, you won't be doing that either. Filling the jugs is a very big part of increasing output, this can also be very complicated with only one constant! It is that constant that you, we usually look to make the most of! very nice Patch

Yes, both together would spell the above long distance diagnosis.. Good to hear no issues

Some additional information on the cms http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?33328-Information-Display-Repair Patch

So for the gas level: rule in or out using the ohms I gave you above. Divide the coil in half making a mark on the the casing, then set the float contact to the point and measure the ohms top, mid & empty. If its close to matching then its easy, center stand the bike fill the tank with Jerry and set the float to read full. My bike has a different board then yours, so the pic I posted was the problem "parriehammer" help me with on my tail light. But I would check the light first with the meter then the wiring up to the dash, again end to end. Patch

Addressing a couple of PM's I get the confusion on the parts lists that is shown pretty much on the commonly used net stores. Here is one example: Item 13.43 (link below) read this as either line 13 or line 43! You'll notice that both lines do not have a price or a QTY. this is because that is an oem list. If we are looking for parts for a 20 or 30 year old bike we need to expand past the oem and look for other compatible merchandise; like in this case choosing a spring manufacture that meets your particular requirements, such as budget availability or performance') https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042d35f8700209bc789f16/front-fork parts list from post 19 Gold Valve Emulator # FEGVS 3801 $170.00 Set Bushings inner # FMBI 40201P $24.00 Set ****** Outer # FMBO 40122P $60.00 Set Copper washers # HMWC 1015 $5.00 ea. Oil seals # FKOS 40P $30.00 Set Dust seals # FKDS 40P $30.00 Set Springs 200lb rider .95 #FRSPS 3234 $130.00 Set Number 2 "Bush or Bushings Inner" not available from any supplier that I have checked. Working with Race Tech they put me onto a bushing list by metrics; so as I've mentioned I have some spare forks I need to go through those parts measure the inner's then compare hopefully find a match that was produced for a different model!?? If I'm lucky enough to match the metrics then I'll post the part number. Just an opinion, if you have recent springs regardless of MFG ; but you are still searching to solve dive with just oil W. Consider the Emulator as a likely fix to the problem, and it's adjustable... Might be less expensive else where which is fine but who will support it, if you have problems. As I mentioned before this setup will likely offer good performance, it would be where my money would go, if I were today looking at rebuilding. I have already rebuilt but the time to experiment was a pain in the ass! Race Tech are betting that their spring will perform better because it is a "true" coil once you have preloaded it! In other words it is not progressive. Cheers Patch

Well I can toss some thoughts up for kindling.. If you over think constant velocity we tend to loose faith in them. What we do to a short haul or track bike usually won't suit a touring machine needs. That said some years back I struggled with 32mm on something I thought just needed more potential. I pondered for a long time on switching to a central injection system Mighty Squirt was still in early stages and was an open platform so... Then I picked up a parts bike with 36mm that I really had no use for and started a conversion on an extra v4 I had on the bench. I haven't finished it yet but likely soon as I am breaking down the shop planning on just keeping 2 bikes. What I would be hesitant on first is, the length of the intake tubing, especially for the higher rpm range. Next is that any gains will be had by taking advantage of matching close to... displacement,(an easier fill is also a quicker fill) then jetting for stochoi! In short I would stay with CV and jump to 32mm from the 28s or 32s to 34/6, likely it would be an easy 1st start and tuning would be minimum. I would and likely suggest a little porting (head on) nothing major but ensuring nothing in the way of grinding gets past the valves! You might assume that this will require free flowing yapy exhaust? Well I'd rather discuss oil then exhaust or even better ride while others chase that tail;) Patch

No ****! I think I've found my twin brother? How many nuts are still around that have boiled carbs? I think once someone gets to understand "allergic" they've won;) no more worries Patch

Seriously a 40" screen? Cleans floors to I bet with bar stools and a beer fridge I bet!

Yep, I'm the same way, like my paperback manuals! But the schematics for the wiring harness is better here in the library. You might want to print it and attach to the manual. Well have fun Patch

You make a good point bluesky. You don't necessarily need to have a true reading though. You really are just looking to compare jug temps. So if you work quickly the readings are useful proving, you measure each one at the same location and as close to the port as possible while testing! Patch

They ship. 1 250 392 2442 Dave

Just rereading this post and.. My instruction is mixed up. The temperature check will indicate pilot circuit. The main best represents the fuel consumption and lack of power. So sticking main or damaged leaking diaphragm! Sorry about that, the French & English sides of me obviously had an argument. Not sure which one won reading that confusion;) Patch