Patch

I am a believer that an experienced rider will setup his bike based on how he likes to ride. "My Bike, My Way" True what luvmy40 is saying about old rubber lines. However these bikes aren't cruisers, but do handle like a sport bike in many ways. My Gen 1.5 at speed handles better than our old Kats at speed and corner more like a crossbreed. If your running a line in a tricky curve which brake would you prefer to help hold the line past throttle? I would re-link them. I can say with certainty they power you down very well when linked, providing, the suspension is in good order. Patch

Small wins count!!

So for future: If you had said it got warm or buzzed I would have suggested pickling it! I use Deepcreep for this in a jar let it pickle for a day or more. When there's nothing to loose, step away from the box and get creative. Looks like somehow you have it back together, nice!

Terminal eh. Hmm Well there are plenty old units around to pick at. Try cowpuc he might have one?

Doesn't buzz or get warm?

Bongo thank you for making the time to explain your theory. There is a reason as to why I was looking for 4.7V as a starting point. I'll leave it at that. I don't know and likely none of us know for certain that she only fired with the switch hooked up or while bypassed? Likely a switch can be designed to work with/at a specific frequency which is what I think you are saying the generating loop would provide. Yet it also would need to have a tolerance to deal with both higher and lower voltage. I can bobby pin any of the bikes I have here at the moment obviously modern engineering has gotten ahead of me with this. While we are being frank, I am not a believer in operating these machines while bypassed; if not for ones self, a run away machine is a risk to others easily avoided. (my opinion) Steamer if the switch is the only problem, I suggest you open it, clean it and get back to riding. Keep the replacement in the trunk. Patch

There's a fix for everything! Yes they are shot. The best way I know to replace them is to head over to a watch repair and buy 2 - 12mm crystals. They may ask if you want dome or flat, I use flat but both work. Empty the reservoirs and clean them while your in there. If you haven't change fluids yet this will be a good time after you complete the lens swap. Using a small flat screwdriver or hook, work it through the lens making a hole then pry out. Sometimes it comes out in one piece, other time you just keep removing small pieces. "Careful to not push through the reflector/baffle plate behind the lens, or scratch it/them. Wash the seat with acetone or whatever fluid you have that dries without leaving a film! Here's the tricky part: run a very small bead of liquid gasket around the edge, try to keep it even. Then leave it and place on to the seat with gentle pressure, do not rotate the lens! Wipe the outside surface take a look, if your happy with the results let it dry! Shine it up after it dries. Wait till the next day to replace or drain the DOT3. Any news on the cruise? Patch

Well cowpuc.. Seems to me I remember reading a few words a friend of yours wrote not to long ago. Guess he knew who he was vouching for! Shoot man good thing your house is bolted to a foundation> Can just imagine you trying to post it via U.S. Mail

Do you know how to deal with the lenses on the reservoirs?

Not sure I follow? Hmm If that is so then what can be expected as a result of 12V I guess we'll find out soon enough.

I'll share a quick story: So I traveled cross Canada very late in the year 07; I found that power consumption was very much in need of management. You likely need heated grips up front? If you enjoy Fall riding then a heated vest as well? For the Misses as well a heated vest and a " hand muff?" not sure the correct spelling with vest is what I got for my Girl. Patch

There were a couple mentions in your OP, so I am wondering why you decided the “CDI” was bad? “Time passed and we developed a firing problem, so I figured since I had to replace or move the CDI might as well go ahead and “ Perhaps my question is misfiring when, at H.W. speed, idle, can you remember throttle position? Patch

yep, but make sure you don't press the secret button hidden under it or.... who knows?

Steamer if I could have placed that pothole in your path knowing it would form this team; I'd gladly have done so! At your expense of course;) There are some really good foundation guys here at VR! When flyinfool corrected course for me over the solenoid, all I can say, what a bruise to my forehead! I just enjoy troubleshooting with a team.. Well here's hoping the problem is soon to be past tense. Patch

Which is why we mentioned it has to be removed and checked, for future folks looking into it.

And if we knew the voltage output after the switch we could series the triple A to come close to, then we'd be able with ease to rule the tip switch in or out. Simply put we offer the controller the required voltage by bypassing the 12 volt feed! Not sure my English is saying what I'm actually think? But you get the drift.. Patch And also all might not be lost with this switch, if Steamer can remove it the he can or likely reset it.

For all the added work to convert, the one and best argument is getting that atomized ratio so close to the chambers. What a tease;)

Just a quick note: If you plan to rebuild carbs then you should change all wearing parts. The rubber plugs can be problematic if they have shrunk. As too - the jet body gaskets. Important to read the jet # you are removing and compare that to what is listed; sometimes we are rebuilding hoping we clear up a problem which could be a jetting issue. So knowing those # helps. Where we most often go wrong when rebuilding at home is cleaning. We need to clean the outer shells well before soaking, or sure as Murphy chit will migrate to bad places. Use safety glasses when spaying carb cleaner through "every" possible passage, then blow through and watch how the fluid behaves as it jets out. Bench set "every" thing you can, taking your time to double check so you needn't remove them a 2nd time. I use a spay lube before removing them, a quick spray to each then wiggle them in place give them a minute to soak free, then lift up. If they resist much spray them again. The intakes are expensive and rarely on the shelf, so adds to down time! Patch

Not sure if you would like to try a bypass for the tip switch. 3 triple A 1.5v strung together may trick the Control into firing.

Why not order a tip over switch? While you have the time to wait.

Good that you changed sparks.. It is best to just stick to what we do and don't know for the moment. 10v to 0v so intermittent. You should measure the resistance from through the kill switch all the way to the coils as was stated this morning. With the key off go to the fuse box with one lead then to the positive post of the coil and measure. After you note the reading then flip the kill a couple of times, read again and let us know. If there is trouble then we can see it and patch it. But without the tip switch we can't fire the coils because the control module is grounded and out of play. We still suspect the tip switch. It is possible to get some bleed enough to fire, but we call it a slow roll, not a running engine!

So some good advice came through with the setting of cruise. If it still isn't working for you check the operation of the motor like the manual says, jumper the motor make sure it still runs and generates vacuum.

Flinfool "The red/black wire is not powered by the Starter relay" F**ck me how stupid of me! Of course I just reread your post thinking I missed something, jeepers that was really dumb of me.

Knowing this now, I would (if it were me), continue to rule the modules in or out and not go straight to the Control box. Like I mentioned yesterday that could just blow another box. Something must of triggered this fail. So we assume the tip switch stayed in play. We know voltage is 10v at the coils. We know the starter circuit was working. And we know the pickup coil is good. Not sure what causes the control to trigger the engine light, could be a combination of things? Sticking to a plan is all I know for trouble shooting.

Bummer the warning light is off the starter circuit. Well it will need testing Correction Control unit..