Patch

Not sure I agree, ok I am sure.. If the switch ohms have changed for whatever the reason, we can stop looking and rule it out! Well likely some French in you somewhere, really no other explanation.

When Carl mentioned the connections for the side stand, any chance you fiddled with that wiring? So before anything else is the measured voltage at the coils? With that we need to know the battery voltage key on. I'm not sure if you are up for it but.. Would you be willing to measure the tip switch that you are presently using? Obviously we know for the moment that the control module is good, at the moment it is switching the coils, also the fuel pump is working meaning the starting circuit is also good!

Hmm? need a minute I still laughing at the last couple of minutes

Carl are you telling me you are a French Canadian? Because you know we learn to live with that burden at a very young age..LOL

Well something changed Steamer. So you have your old tip switch hooked up?

How can you be lonely Carl, your bike is running and you are always in the arms of your Girl.

You were lonely and needed company?

Flyinfool made some valid comments (get use to it, he allows us to make mistakes on his behalf;) that are worth keeping in mind when working on the bike. 1st comes to mind is these CV carbs unlike the older mechanical slide carbs behave differently and will require the complete air box installed like flyinfool says, for any high rpm range off the throttle. For now till you get use to it just except that and work with it.. You can do your initial starts and adjustments with the box off and you'll be ok till 2ish 000. Another good point is these fours will seem to put out well on 3 jugs but you'll notice somethin in 5th at high speeds and of course fuel mess pumped through exhaust and oil contamination providing the carb on missing jug is filling of course! Of course much more of a thrill when you're dragging a wasted 4strokes. Anyways kind of cool to get so much support from, such a small club. Patch

Likely Bongo is walking Steamer through it directly, might be easier for..

OR a shipping thingy? It to could be switched off? So test and then we move on

Something isn't adding up Flyinfool, 3 bikes tested 21ohms only the problem bike test's 61. Nope I think the tip switch needs to be still ruled in or out.

Sorry busy morning. Hmm, that's me refreshing! Strange that it too is reading 61ohms? Can you hear or feel the pendulum move on this new to us switch? The reading has to change based on movement Carl is right "of course" if the connection of the side stand is bad, and is something we skipped over because....

Sorry I should of mentioned and you likely already know, as you are lifting the carbs that's the best time. Just off of 5 cranks only each.

No not thinking valve adjustment. But yes for the cover gasket. Post when you can- the dry numbers and then wet. This may sound odd but wet as thin as possible like dot 3 or 401 1/4 tsp. Patch

Well you are a long ways from needing to worry about that now.. With all this work you are in the middle of, did you check compression? Yes I know "low mileage" Patch

Because it's a trike you may have options. But likely that would require extending the connecting harness.

Hmm, 7lakes I agree we can improve most systems for a fraction of what they originally cost. Example braided lines pads that suit your style.... BUT here's is our divide: My 1st hand experience TOURING on this touring bike; the braking system as is, in popper working order with solid suspension - kept my rubber in contact, confidence high and shiny side up! And, on 1 occasion of which there have been many (I do enjoy pushing hard) face to the back of a combine when instinctively I was looking for the better outcome of a slide knowing that would be favorable to kissing his big red ass. Instead and to my surprise she held and bled off speed and inertia like a Queen! I'm and old cowboy so I keep my tramp bags packed and 1 up, 2 up stability and inertia could have rolled the dice snake eyes true, but then again I wouldn't have been pushing as hard either. Except for my springs and oils she stock mechanically but maintained not like a mini van rather like a touring sport's machine/Queen, with no "not street legal" stickers! My anti dives are electrically actuated no indirect links.. Patch

Well put Tim! Not sure why folks don't like the anti dives. I change all hydraulic fluids every year even if the miles don't justify that I do. Since changing out my fork oil to what the informed disagree with;) I haven't had to reload them in many years now but should of refreshed by now. Patch

I am a believer that an experienced rider will setup his bike based on how he likes to ride. "My Bike, My Way" True what luvmy40 is saying about old rubber lines. However these bikes aren't cruisers, but do handle like a sport bike in many ways. My Gen 1.5 at speed handles better than our old Kats at speed and corner more like a crossbreed. If your running a line in a tricky curve which brake would you prefer to help hold the line past throttle? I would re-link them. I can say with certainty they power you down very well when linked, providing, the suspension is in good order. Patch

Small wins count!!

So for future: If you had said it got warm or buzzed I would have suggested pickling it! I use Deepcreep for this in a jar let it pickle for a day or more. When there's nothing to loose, step away from the box and get creative. Looks like somehow you have it back together, nice!

Terminal eh. Hmm Well there are plenty old units around to pick at. Try cowpuc he might have one?

Doesn't buzz or get warm?

Bongo thank you for making the time to explain your theory. There is a reason as to why I was looking for 4.7V as a starting point. I'll leave it at that. I don't know and likely none of us know for certain that she only fired with the switch hooked up or while bypassed? Likely a switch can be designed to work with/at a specific frequency which is what I think you are saying the generating loop would provide. Yet it also would need to have a tolerance to deal with both higher and lower voltage. I can bobby pin any of the bikes I have here at the moment obviously modern engineering has gotten ahead of me with this. While we are being frank, I am not a believer in operating these machines while bypassed; if not for ones self, a run away machine is a risk to others easily avoided. (my opinion) Steamer if the switch is the only problem, I suggest you open it, clean it and get back to riding. Keep the replacement in the trunk. Patch

There's a fix for everything! Yes they are shot. The best way I know to replace them is to head over to a watch repair and buy 2 - 12mm crystals. They may ask if you want dome or flat, I use flat but both work. Empty the reservoirs and clean them while your in there. If you haven't change fluids yet this will be a good time after you complete the lens swap. Using a small flat screwdriver or hook, work it through the lens making a hole then pry out. Sometimes it comes out in one piece, other time you just keep removing small pieces. "Careful to not push through the reflector/baffle plate behind the lens, or scratch it/them. Wash the seat with acetone or whatever fluid you have that dries without leaving a film! Here's the tricky part: run a very small bead of liquid gasket around the edge, try to keep it even. Then leave it and place on to the seat with gentle pressure, do not rotate the lens! Wipe the outside surface take a look, if your happy with the results let it dry! Shine it up after it dries. Wait till the next day to replace or drain the DOT3. Any news on the cruise? Patch