Patch

Found this link on my home page,very good timing I must say. This Judge goes out of his way to help Vets https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC59KhIPOR0Jj653dC4laEJw

I am thinking those to have to do with the air induction system? pg. 6-16

I agree with you Ben a stuck float is not reason enough to merit changing or rebuilding a set.

It shows a map in the first 16 sec.

We did have some fun with this thread! lol

Make sure you use good drivers on those screws, a small impact driver makes short work of taking them apart. If you need to touch up a flat screwdriver to remove the jets then its money well spent, nothing worse then stripping the head off a jet. Take your time and don't skip past the inricher or costing circuits... Read the position sensor its on in the book. Note your jet sizes down.. While your carbs are off, and even tho this is a relatively new engine, it would be a good idea to check your compression, for stuck rings or leaky valves. Just takes some of the guess work out of things.

Use a little spay lube on the bottom where they enter the black intake pipes. The Throttle cable I find to be the worst of the job... I think many of us would change the rubber bits while there just do to age. Have fun and you know where to find a 4 leave clover if needed

I think you would have enjoyed the theory tho.There is a lot of coincidental events or evolution theory, mans leaps ahead, common thought wave links.. Not easy to follow I grant that.

True but think of the significance of the piece, its falling point in history.

this video is a bit long but both beautiful to watch and, informative to listen to. imo

So remember the starting point lets say 3mm if you only showed a difference of 1mm that would be a 33% correction, right, that's huge

Once its running and warm close one of the pilot screws in the rear, should be close to 1 turn as they are original setting (most likely) the front will likely show 7/8 of a turn. As you back each off after you turned them in as above, you should see an increase in rpm, doing only one carb at a time. Stop the tune on each carb once it stops increasing rpm, then dial that one back in 1/8 th of a turn, and move to the next and repeat the process. You'll notice a difference when you look down the barrel. Note: if any one carb tune does not increase in rpm as you back out, the that jet is plugged

well you did well then. Should be ready for a startup now, get ready to dial it up or down with the idle screw, that the #5 only. No throttle just hit the start button, maybe some choke. Were they far apart?

https://www.venturerider.org/manuals/RSVservice.pdf

page 6-2 look at #5 and number and 13

Yes we can visualize what you are referring to. So your rears are set richer than your fronts, that is because of the rears getting hotter or harder to cool in traffic! As @CaseyJ955 was mentioning about the jetting being different for the rears... We'll be coming to that after you set your plates! I am looking for the screw # to refer you to now but if someone has a pic or knows please chime in.

Just in case then please share my interest whit your Queen. And if she changes her mind the French part I can lovingly teach

The sync screws are the same you used when you synced the carbs the first time! 1 is the fat knob one that you tune the idle with, also has a phillips head. the other 3 are just screws, The are all linked together.

Well jeepers Carl, if Marca is over you then please pass my number on to her

those plugs look too me as low mileage yet the top one way lean, bottom lean ish, the second and third down are better but the third looks spot on. Will be interesting to see the ones in there now. remember after you set the plates, do not reassemble the slides, we'll go a bit further before doing that.

What am I missing Carl?

Lets see if I can confuse Puc and maybe connects some dots B4 what you describe is an overheating issue that is simple to understand in that a component essential to the design is simply not Qing in . So the Tsat stays open and the cooling cycle is absent, the btus continue to accumulate. That make the fix simple. When I troubleshoot I easily build mental working models and I check the boxes. If the theories I build off of are correct then I can fallow the logic, assume to understand the why's that lead to the what's. The what's are for me the results. First find the common threads, to me that is the practical. In this case what I see I have brought forward before, and those of us that have the experience challenged the my gathering of thoughts (really what I enjoy most about this school)! In this case we have 4 jugs all connected to the crank, why bring the crank into the discussion ? How many have run a biggish 4 stroke Thumper? Well all 4 strokes driven by one combustion cycle. The energy of that 1 cycle spins the crank freely till the next thump, simple right. All associa ted drag is simply x(1) x being 4 strokes to deliver that one next thump. Each piston we add to the crank also adds to the cranks effort to share each jug energy input. I am purposely skipping past any timing outside of know there will be a next - intake cycle, compression, combustion, and exhaust cycle or 4(4). Heat is a result of effeminacy and is what OP has brought to the table as a question. His logic is suggesting that there must be an issue. Ask the question then, why if I have greater combustion heat on 1 jug is that a problem? Why can I not see it as a benefit as it should mean that jug is producing more energy? And that is where the crank comes in. The total engine is out of sync, why is due to the set of components/carbs being off sync. Breaking this down: 3 carbs are performing well enough to force the crank to rotate @ a predictable speed; now lets say #1 turn to fire and it delivers a unexpected force or a higher pressure output to the crank that is already rotating: that say on a scope would show up as a blip/spike! That in turn changes the speed at which the next inline travels. That in real terms is a misfire. Injection system here in place of a carb would be much more easy to diagnose, right, ECM spits out a 300, general misfire, or unexpected rotation speed off the crank or how about describing it as unequal pressure/force. True it is cause by heat, true the rad has to deal with it, but that is calibration issue so treat that instead of the symptom. Next: understand by dividing the component into segments: the carb design (singular) is one air 2 gas for a stochiometeric and that is another word for achieving heat efficiency. It is much easier to figure out a rich problem than a lean problem as it is much easier to figure a thumper carb issue then a linked crank one such as in these 4 cylinders. Final: the bench marks are important when working or tuning carbs, we know that drill so I'll skip over, but in this case and now @BlueSky 700 we have a mix of hotter and colder combustion cycles, for me as they in these two cases are changing suggest that the throttle plates are not synced. There is more air volume on one or 2 of them that also means that those that have that now have to deal with the drag of those that don't!! How we know this is by monitoring the exhaust heat and, the rpms as we try a sync. How we correct the tail chasing is by starting back at the bench marks. In this case for OP we set the plate to Idle but feeler gauge/bit then sync to jug breath, which should be as close to spec as possible or within a couple PSI. Hope that helps after you sync the plates then we'll look at the rest like mixing/low speed circuits

K!

Take a look at the quoted area its how I work best over the net: