Patch

That's an interesting guess but likely not. Not the point of this thread but, 14.7:1 is the benchmark which today in modern engines can be achieved with some consistency below WOT.. Take Luvmy40s engine he sees lean I see both rich and maybe some lean (I'm guessing now) around higher rpm maybe 4 - 5000 range leanish. There are ways to prove out the lean/rich bands providing we understand the process of combustion. With a carburated engine 14.7:1 is a fleeting target range we likely all see it at some point but shoot past or stay something below it. Given the choice I would stay just low of it for a street ride cruiser or touring bike, (liquid or air cooled makes a difference) but out on the H.W. where my rpms tend to steady; I would like to be just as close to it as is possible for both range and performance reason. That to me means to rich on a steady rpm will carbon up my cambers, too lean and I will cook up my chambers and rings! This is why standard jetting is the best average and over sizing should be lead by a clear goal/target and in small patient increments.

Hmm I using Gmail as well. Any ways just following the link in my mail to this and, not sure what I hit to get a new to me page, although I pressed settings look down and like magic there were all my subscribed post and PMs... Hmmm So I'll take it for spin over the next couple of days and report back. Thanks Guys

Not a big deal but I've noticed that when I log in I don't always get the notices at the top of the forum page even after I have received an email notice response. Sometimes it seems as tho they all show up in my email at once, like a timed dump. Not sure if I am not using this feature correctly or if I should be adjusting settings?

I see. So you have the 1983 with an 84 engine? Why would you want to replace it with a faulty unit? These engines if maintained can easly perform well at higher mileage, which is what by the way? Likely you wouldn't know the real miles I guess. It is not uncommon for aluminum engines to leak coolant, and as I've mentioned in the past it was common practice to flush, refill and add a can of Bars to the coolant, this was also a recommended MFG practice in the early years of liquid cooled engines, and in my opinion still is. But if we don't know if the coolant leaked into the cylinders then under no circumstances would I risk the effort without pulling the engine apart and at a minimum, checking for broken rings and excessive wall glazing! Not to say my way is better but fluid above the piston is bad news - if it happened?? So my thought is, do a compression check, so simple and cost next to zip. That I think would be a wise start... Also I have a posting which is based on my experience with many old motorcycle engines.. A Case for Fogging

The butterfly would seize closed, they were spring loaded on a solid casting and simply designed to fail. The idea was to flow quickly through the intake manifolds promoting gas vapor, in order to reduce cold wet combustion; which in turn reduces oil, increases friction and cold start cylinder wall scoring!

Without looking at the manual and I can if you need help. Unless the engine is going to be completely disassembled we always set the timing marks, then we add for a quick re install purpose, a witness mark on the sprocket and chain. You know of course there is a tensioner below the head, they do not all reset the same way so, it is important to follow the manuals procedure. May we ask why you want/need to remove the head?

Just to let others know, you can use the above technique to clean lock cylinders. It causes the tumblers and springs to oscillate and the lube then carries the dirt away.

Any body remember the warming butterfly that the Brains at Mopar came up with in 70? Mopar was my first true Love, but that piece of junk warmer they came with on the driver side exhaust manifold put a lot of 383 and 440s in the yards inventory after just one year. When diagnosing the problems it would lead us to find where the losses were coming from which lead us to the rocker settings. That head would be a mountain of crud! This was due to the excessive heat and back pressure caused by the brainfart gadget Mopar shipped with. In my early days Valvoline was top shelf and few of us could believe that it was an oil based and maintenance problem, as we were told to believe.

I'll take a screwdriver and well cut wrench over soft switching any day. Any other day Wasaga Beach with a tall drink and bikini scenery. That is of course assuming Marcarl isn't on the beach hogging all the under 30s graduates..

OK I want to say up front that I have zero experience with locks also - that I am completely without knowledge in this matter! However;) fill the cylinder with penetrating oil take a jig sander or whatever you may have that vibrates NONE rotating remove any abrasive paper and place and hold the vibrating pad to the lock mechanism. Then try the key again ensuring there is no lifting pressure on the lock.. Repeat if necessary, and don't mention my name

In passing: 327 318 heads with the mileage you noted were past due. The sludge that was mentioned in both post was common back in the day. Sludge is just a marketing term, "if you use our brand and follow our recommendations you will stop the formation of..." We blame the oil, oil brands blame the other brands; "sludge" is just a nice way of lying with the aim of increasing market share. Oil among other things is a carrier pumped through a harsh and volatile environment. #2 reason for sludge, valve stems, valve guides, valve seals & piston rings. In short blowby. Some blowby is expected but it can be perpetuating. This happens as pressure increases seeking the path of least resistance during that power stroke. The dirty result of combustion is abrasive, which is of course carbon. OK we expect this so we plan for this and develop a PM schedule. When we display neglect we become the cause of the sludge, not the oil! This suggests that we are the #1 reason. If best practice is to not insult the client; then educate him/her within a margin of profit. Crankcases are subject to pulses that cause both highs and low pressures. The pressures can cause a weak crankcase gasket or seal to slow leak when engine is not running, or rapidly when the engine is running and; the low pressure can or will draw in unmetered & unfiltered air into that crankcase. When this happens the oil becomes a liquid grinding compound which increases the ware - on or where tight tolerances have been factored; this increases blowby very quickly and depreciates and reverses the expected caricature of any oil choice. Synthetics are a good choice especially for a long distance rider because it has expected extended life cycle, but, if the rest of the maintenance program sucks.... .., Patch

Odd thing for me is I noticed his absence Too? And, I make it a rule to not like anybody, no exceptions, ever! And, that's almost always true? Think maybe he needed a break from us?

"To pay for your subscription using PayPal click the button below and follow the onscreen instructions." Don have you considered that the PayPal link should have additional info? For example (clicking the link will open other payment options) I know the rest of the world isn't as confused as I am but, many of us don't have PayPal thus we don't tend to press those links!

Because we are confused doesn't mean the OP is, it does read as a legitimate complaint one might have.

YES! That is not what causes sludge, not even close! No disrespect but your mechanic is full of "sludge"

In Canada much of our H.W. system is patrolled by the RCMP, a mostly good bunch of good humored guys and gals. Every so often when they catch up to me, I always greet them with a smile and ask “how is your day Constable” usually they reciprocate and we might chat a minute or 2! For the record we Canadians expect some level of courtesy from our national Police Force and in turn we tend to be very open and up front when questioned on things like - where are you coming from, where are you headed, are you travelling alone… Well usually around that third question I start getting stuck, I’m sure it’s a trick question (: And I know they know by this time I am not the sharpest fool they are going to meet on their patrol shift, and it bothers me! Next I know through experience that the following question is going to be “do you know how fast you were travelling?” ***it I always get that one wrong! I just tell them what my Mum always told me to say and do and so I speak the truth, “well Constable I was trying hard to stay above the minimum posted so, I’m guessing 150?” Sometimes they say “would you like to try again” I don’t get that question either, is there a right answer? Or is it my French conversion that puzzles me so? Well we don’t post minimums anymore Sir the sign says maximum, slow down and you should be able to read it! But the thing I’ve noticed with such sincerity is their real concern for my health; they always make a point of asking me if I am feeling OK and, am I on any medication? No - Not since the 70s I answer, that one is etched on the back of my eyelids. And so Canadian too, they always give me an invitation with 3 copies (in case I want to bring friends?) to come back and visit around a week later. Yep that’s the way we handle speed around these parts! Just do your best on the questions and you're good to go… Happy Trails;)

Well at least I am in good company, was feeling kind of you know....confused, old and.....

I had some time to look up the bike specs is this the model you have? https://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/2009models/2009-Yamaha-V-Star-1300Tourer Mikuni dual bore, 40mm returnless-type throttle body fuel injection system with TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and ISC (Idle Speed Control) . This is a “closed loop” system that utilizes an oxygen sensor. The oxygen sensor feedback info to the ECU which in turn adjusts the fuel/air mixture for maximum power with minimum emissions. The oxygen sensor is located before the mufflers, so the use of slip-ons will not effect this system. Bore size is 40mm and each injector features 12 holes and a dual spray pattern for better fuel atomization and more complete combustion chamber filling. There is one injector per cylinder. Fuel injection benefits include improved fuel economy, chokeless operation, reduced emissions, and smoother running. If so no jetting and the fuel pressure will be much higher. Also a liquid cooled V twin

Never, never, never, on a Sunday! Yikes brother. At the price they sell parts for, they should give the bikes away, plus shipping and handling of course.

Yes I agree the pump could be at fault. re jetting to me does not necessarily mean upping the sizes. Rebuilding verses simply cleaning would mean re jetting. Having the baffles in place would indicate there is still back pressure so, likely the scavenging loss is minimum therefor, compensating with larger jets would be for other gains. I wouldn't worry about it in this case and increasing sizes wouldn't allow you to maintain your other goal of fuel mileage. To check the pump you first check pressure _ around 4lbs (typical) then volume which I don't have the numbers for on your bike. What's the mileage of the bike?

Enjoy! We'll talk about the lack of attention to Lucy when you get back..

I think I worked on one of these a couple of years ago? I do remember the rear jug had stuck rings and that carb I had to replace due to ??? Any how I couldn't rebuild it, can't remember what it was.. As for the exhaust pipe the problem started long after the change? Let me know if I can help Patch

Did you get Lucy running on all fours yet? The trick in understanding CV carbs is the circuits. You may still have power over a 1/4 throttle which may explain why you feel no increase in power. However and because you likely have 3 jugs pumping well you may not notice the transition when accelerating. Meaning if your pilot circuit is blocked and you accelerate she should stumble because, you are missing that low rev fuel circuit, this is a common problem! This assumes that the spark plug is firing. Soft tough fixes don't always work, the problem is that the chemical needs to pass through the jet in order to clear away the junk in it. If the jet is blocked not just restricted the cleaning chemical can't do its job, then you rely on luck. If the jug is still not warming equal to the others you will need to remove the carb set and clean that very easy to find pilot jet with wire. I am sure I have pics of blocked jets I'll look and see, if so I'll post one for you. Patch

Yes sir, and what a good plan it was too:)

Any wonder why this forum has such a bad vibe reputation? Carl making time for Robin, but Steamer can't ride, so Bongo is offering riding time to Steamer so Carl can have tea with Robin... So obvious What a nice jester;)