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Patch

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Everything posted by Patch

  1. Well not a good idea from a tuning perspective, weight, balance.... But what the heck, its all just part of the learning curve.
  2. I thought I had a better pic of an old intake pipe but, this one does show the 3 layers that make up a typical unit. Not a Yamaha intake.
  3. Patch

    Mowing

    Carl I now conclude the Dutch Canadians share much in the ways of we French Canadians enjoy viewing the great outdoors. If she hot and she rocks let her and the lucky guy know we see it too;)
  4. Well I'm not sure what you all are smoken but, I like what the HD pipes do for the look of the bike! They tell me it gets stronger towards the end;)
  5. Not sure I follow but, if per chance you are referring to the intake pipes below the carbs? You can check and see if they leak by placing your palm over the port covering each one at a time, then crank the engine over just a couple of times. Each intake pipe should want to pull or suck firmly down the palm and hold till the vacuum dissipates. If so then the intakes are doing there job, if not then you will need to inspect further. As for the slides they ware out, as do the jet needles and jets. "Sorry I guess I was not clear. Its the intake boots that are cracked. But I appreciate the effort. Im shocked at the cost of the slides $$$$$$$"
  6. Patch

    Wild Fires

    Here in Calgary the smoke is pretty intense, smell of forest fire is strong today. I don't follow Canadian news much these days so, this morning I looked up the fire situation it's pretty grim out your way. Well stay safe..
  7. In my early years I did study log and timber framing. If the calling came to me today, I would choose timber framing with a mix of wall construction. For example in my climate my North framing would be a stick or metal stud wall (s) with a higher R-value within the timber frame. Also with timber framing the loads are quite stable between spans, meaning pinned to footings or piles are both cost efficient and suitable. I can look up some plans for you if you forward and idea of sq. footage and layout. I could also help you with budgeting based on "contractor standards" then if and when you alter the specs you would then be able to project the cost overruns. Let me know
  8. This is not a good practice to change just one spring! It would appear that you likely have a slide issue, well that would be what should be addressed first. Changing one spring only/ can and will likely effect slide pressure; this in turn will effect power in the mid range first, if so this effects WOT (weather or not you tend to use it) because of the delay. I assume your slide was at some point getting stuck open?
  9. Well just like Carl says. It is possible the PO may have been hunting an rpm issue and sealed them? Usually the boots key to the box. And as Carl mentioned they can be difficult to slip over the 4 carb seats when installing the air box, really not as bad tho as the straight 4s. If the clamps are stock then they will be nearly closed when tight but don't force anything. I may suspect that the carbs may have had a touch of liquid gasket applied as well? If that is the case then check next time you pull them for broken locking rings molded into the intake pipes. This most often happens when carbs are pulled off dry after cooking in place for many years, I give them a shot of WD and simply wiggle them out, this can prevent the inner ring from braking off.
  10. Yes a very nice find. I remember you have experience with older bikes so likely need not mentioned check the tires manufactured year. They look like Bridgestone? Certainly you will need the AB. safety done, there is a shop I've used in the past in Airdrie just of HW 2, good straight forward bunch there, used to older bikes. Let me know if you need that contact infoe.
  11. Well seems like you're on top of things. Certainly I check the pipes more than most guys will and, I am prone to touring and tuning, it just always been a part of the sport for me. I respect your speed discipline something I have not practiced when outside of the city. I will mention this for your consideration, the 45 - 55 with the v4's do require more shifting to keep the engines from carbonizing up. You probably know this already tho. Have a safe season
  12. Wouldn't life be easier with a money tree in every ones back yard;) So opted for stick coils.. Are they 1.5 ohm? Lets us know next time..
  13. Well you have a plan good! But before swap that plug cause that would really save a lot of work just in case. Easy to find
  14. Just to make sure I've covered all the potentials I'm just going to toss this out there. If it were me and I suspect a misfire I could take my spark gap tester, set to to 5/8" put earplugs on and run the bike keeping an eye on the arc. If there is an intermittent spark problem above the plug then the interruption could line up with the backfire or close.
  15. After you switch the plugs and if it still backfires then I would completely disassemble that no. 4 carb just like the blow up of the carb in chapter 6 plungers included, except the throttle shaft. After you re install it I would figure a way to test the pipe temperatures, if they are close then button up the exhaust, get your rings soaked and ride it. Post a pic of plug 4 if not too much trouble
  16. Looking at my growing worksheet one question that came to mind was, did it backfire when you first road the bike? And on the higher compression jugs, do they climb up fast say like 5 rotations and its close to the max? The plugs are new or reused, gap set..... A new can crack as well
  17. When you do pull them needless to say that 4 requires close inspection of each component, plunger, enricher needle and jets. We read that the carbs don't appear to be leaking from the blows but we do need to confirm that the jet sizes are matching no. 4 carb specs, change them late if you wish. So recap check each piece and part number very closely, every jet and tube must be inspected... Don't sell the spark plug short, a cracked insulator can fool the best of us. Last year I had to pull a set of carbs way to often till finding a bad gasket was the grief, chit happens Looked at the pic you posted of the bike torn down yikes Dude maga work right.
  18. Fogging is just a preventative extra we do when storing an engine. In more extreme situations such as stuck rings we try to free them by soaking the cylinder/jug with a chem that will penetrate the carbon binding the ring which is in fact a spring stuck firmly to what is referred to as the ring landing When we have a whatever that causes a compression loss we generate way too much carbon, just like a healthy engine will if the jets are to large or we choose to run to rich a mix/ say like running on the choke too long! Important to note that 10:1 cost more to build. And what we get in return is something closer to stoichio all the while using less fuel or smaller jets, (we can of course choose larger) yet still extracting sufficient heat energy which then is measured in expansion. By knowing the stroke design can choose how much ignition, heat expansion will be at the BTC which is then tossed out with the remaining ignition or afterburn. Why is having to much unused energy at BTC important? Easy, no. 1 power stroke compresses no. 2 and so on.. If we choose to enlarge the jets then, our aim is for more punch at a given range but we sacrifice efficiency in the process. Because of the exhaust system on these bikes they also cheat the scavenge effect so you have different jet sizing which is quite confusing. It is in a real sense compensating for the volume imbalance front and rear.. Now aren't you glad you asked;)
  19. "Cleaned the carb body with carb cleaner and a brush. The kit I bought included the float bowl o-ring, float needle and valve assembly and o-rings. It did not include the idle jets. I have had them off twice now and only have had a problem with number 4 cylinder. Since it looks like I will be pulling them off again maybe I should get new jets? So frustrating.""" Did you soak and spray clean passages, jets, and blow through using 80ish pounds? After you look through chapter 6 let us know what you don't remember removing and cleaning, that may trigger an answer I am including 2 links, one is out of the gen 2 library the other is the pdf I am using. Chapter 6 shows the carbs. I think we are confusing results when we aren't using the same terminology. In the second link there are some very good pictures showing Don Murray & Freebird jetting. Pay close attention to the pilot jet with emulsion tube, did you remove and check/clean these. Also take a look at the needle on 4 take a pic when you pull it out so we may see if there has been changes or a mistake. Did you swap the plugs? For now and of course the decision is yours, I would change jet sizes till we settle the bike down. If only 2 had been 150psi http://www.werder.ee/Manual/XVZ1300.pdf https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?502-Re-Jetting-Carbs This link is for the AIS system curious if yours has been altered? But it has to do with deceleration. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?485-Plugging-the-AIS
  20. Just a thought when you have a minute switch 4 with any other spark plug
  21. Was just rereading the original complaint, a LOUD backfire has a completely different direction to popping which was also mentioned. If we suspect the backfire is unburnt fuel then that can be from 2 or 4 correct? Load test the coils using the gap test, then we can just rule it out. About your question on what can cause it from carb 4 and reading your other responses, have you checked that the enricher is not leaking, the needle jet is in proper working condition? I think you said 3/4 or 7/8 of a turn starts the backfiring not popping? So the post I wrote has the suggestions for this as a cause. This means that you need examine each piece carefully to make sure you can rule it in or out.
  22. If you take this root and the backfiring stops, has the problem been addressed? Certainly fix the exhaust leak but the source of fuel leak should be dealt with as well. Is there any chance you can measure the pipe temperature at the exhaust port at the rpm when it usually goes off? You mentioned earlier that you could almost time it I think?
  23. maybe I crossed the numbers when I transferred them to my work sheet? Let me check.
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