Patch

The short version for me: Turn one pilot screw in till bottoms out Note the turns it took Note if the engine has slowed rpms/ if yes then assume that pilot circuit is working I then turn that pilot out 1 & 1/4 turn/ wait 8 seconds rpm have picked up? Then turn in 1/4 turn do rpm's slow? If so then turn out 1/2 turn, rpm should pickup (again wait 8 seconds) Now back in 1/8 turn looking for increasing rpm if it slowed then out 1/4 (8 seconds) So after the initial setting to 1 &1/4 all you need do is tweak the pilot screw back and forth as mentioned till you have reach the highest rpm possible. This is in most cases around a 1/4 turn in or out of the initial set, and providing the jets are standard, and not partially clogged, such as slow gains can likely be a sign of restricted jet passage. Do not adjust rpm set screw while setting pilot screws. I start between 800- 850 rpm, after all are done I adjust final rpm. The final 1/4 turn after all have been set, is not mandatory it is simply a buffer nor must it be a 1/4 turn 1/8 might suit you. Whether you finish in or out on this final depends on what you prefer lean ish or rich ish Keep in mind the pilot circuit is not a power circuit, it is idle and transition to power circuits. And yes it stays on all the way through so does contribute.

https://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/pdf/1983-1985-yamaha-venture-manual-complete-with-wiring-diagrams.pdf Chapter 7, page 7-16

High Will, I did try to reply to your pm on this, not sure if you received it. Anyways as I recall from your other post with the picture of the side view of your carbs, those tamper caps appeared to be off, the head of the crew seemed to be visible. Let us know how it works out

First time working with Constant Velocity carbs hmmm;)

Maybe guys we should chip in and buy him a personal Epirb?

That still applies! I would expect that the fluid will drain past over a couple of days! Also that cylinder will be damp so will the plug but because the others aren't she will still fire up and that no. 3 will start to fire being driven by the other running jugs! I did have one question for you John, any chance you noticed the throttle plate positions, after you removed them? In particular if they looked to be more open or more closed one from another? I ask because of the number 3 being low the syncing would have to compensate; just as it will again once the jug hits its higher compression level.

I may add that quick deceleration in second and third will usually cause the ring to oscillate or dance a little, this will usually cause any solid chunks of carbon to fracture.

This is correct! The reason we want to free the rings/springs or what we want to free them from is that they are stuck in the ring land. It starts simply enough as one of the pictures show in the fogging post, dissimilar metals, sweating over time in an already carbon rich environment. At this point and after not running for a couple of seasons we say or call them "sticky" but because they are sticky they aren't springing or able to fully spring! Now because the rings arn't locking nor are the mating 100% to the walls, the compression drops causing combustion heat loss, and higher carbon is a result of these cooler ignitions! So it escalates quickly from sticky to stuck. When the piston compresses the volume of air/fuel the ring will by design but only if they are free to lock compression, which of course is accomplished by the pressures slipping down and to the rear of the ring land/ applying outward pressure at the back of the ring & downward pressure to seat on the land by piston travel/ which is another engine spec. This is covered under engine rebuilding. So what you want to see is the Deep Creep moving past the rings to the bottom of the crankcase as a measure of improvement. You see how 3 was slow, well likely at first it was only seeping through the ring ends which again is a spec! Also the landings are plugged up with carbon as mentioned above... And is why I suggest you engage 1st gear and jerk the rear wheel to add some shock value! If you park it during say this week, then you can add a little more and not worry about it's level. If pulling the plug is a big deal then spray down that carb a 2 second shout and let it seep and jerk the wheel once a day or what ever works. See we know we are nearly there on 3 this means that it is now seeping past, and if you have run the bike since, then you have put some real pressure on that piston and rings, and that pressure at those temps are very effective. Those number will still climb but yes if it were me I would give it one small shot of 2 seconds again even though I know you mentioned its a hard plug to pull. Saving the shape of the ring is important and as is the extra combustion heat 40 lbs up. If you go through the carb then please TAG the ignition switch to prevent accidental starting.

Well John some guys are just fun to work with over the net. Always nice when a fellow asks for help then runs with it! I have have had engines like this that are stubborn for the rings to release often. The good news is that Deep Creep will continue to work under the high temperatures, likely next time you measure those jugs they will all be a bit higher. I really don't see any reason for them to be low within that mileage. The other long term benefit of catching it now is that the rings haven't likely had much opportunity to ware unevenly.... A win win Have a safe season John

That's what I see too Rod. But that carb would have taken you home if you had, had an issue on the road; and likely you just might be that guy that figures a work around when in a jamb. Cheers and if it were me I'd keep getting familiar with the bike systems before syncing carbs, say like a compression and coil voltage...

I get it. It takes a bit of time to really make any bike meet or beat our expectations, been down that road many times. Tell me did you notice anything at the 0.11 mark? Things that can improve snap are air flow, cleaned carbs, a thorough exam of the jets and needles/ meaning shape of jet port & needles, compression/vacuum, and coil voltage can make quite a difference as well. It takes some time and, at least for myself I need to write out the results, when I do so most times this will help me build a clearer picture or share my troubleshooting thoughts with others.. Usually the expected power is just suppressed by some circuit under performing.

I had a short clip of a project I worked showing injectors at low rpm; unfortunately I can't seem to find that clip. Anyways get the fuel injected as close to the head ports without disturbing air flow will reap the best results especially at higher rpm. You can experiment with intake lengths for torque if you like but again, that changes at higher rpm where air volume dominates over velocity... fun stuff The engine should meet expected base lines beforehand or, the results and tuning become a mess. You can't help but learn through the exercise, especially if time is on your side. Patch

Something like this will get a guy home! But would you leave for a long trip? I think you did a very good job! Try this this, stop the video at 0.11 / imagine a line between front left and rear right, do the same for the other 2 remaining. If I may ask what else have you checked on the bike? Electrical? Compression? Rear wheel lash? Filters...

I remembered seeing this picture Zagger posted I must say he's quite creative. POST #2 https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?135518-Reversing-the-shift-pattern

I would if you still can, add a sealer to the patch work, water based works well, no odor.

I know when I sold mine which was truly the first time I sold a personal anything, it took 3 weeks and I got my asking price of $3000.00 Can.. It sold through Auto Trader nothing else brought me any leads! For many buying an older bike without knowing the history is difficult, having VR actually helps maintain model value as in support and part sourcing! Time and a picture of a woman in a bikini with her hitchhiking thumb out might just be the formula needed;) or maybe the price is too low?

"Heavy or reedy" what a neat way of saying skinny;) You're right of course at 6'1" I'm just average and truth is I did loose a half inch on a sudden stop. I do get the challenge tho and I also know that the world really is built around averages with regards to day to day stuff. Tell you a little family joke: my father was 5'8 my kid sister was/is 4'11 3/4", the old man always said when I was born they had a tall milkman and when she was born....

Well that is the wiser move Rod, still your efforts are quite telling for those of us that just enjoy pushing ourselves trough this old motorcycle rehab addiction;) I think you did a pretty good job of it! These CV carbs need a good balance to perform as intended, when they are off tune then really no matter the efforts these bikes are just Honda's

So for the record/ that is completely wrong/ but looks very well accomplished! Now I'm not suggesting they'll stay together in symphony but,,, If you had painted them before taking the pic,, would be hard pressed to see the repair! Not bad rookie, welcome to the club Rod. Patch

At 6'1" I find my knees on the gen 1 seem to get caught up but we do get use to it, and nothing like cornering with my feet firmly on the standard pegs. Having said that I think Zag has a very smart setup and perhaps he can share the geometry he fabbed up. Now if you ever get a chance to ride an old Cavalcade and there are some still around, then you feel a difference for a long legged man.

"I ride year round so the efi would be nice as the temps dip south of freezing plus the self tuneing aspect and you can run a megasquirt as a flex fuel. " Yes! It helps to understand the theory tho.

Ambitious is the EFI. The study of this will expose you to a lot of theory. While there is a lot of stuff to read on the net about it, it isn't easy to find well written or explained information unfortunately. Time is on your side and not unlike many of us who had the itch decades ago when better seemed to always mean bigger;) EFI opens endless possibilities. A quick comment on a leg injury; I climbed for many years some referred to this line of work as "steeple chasers" one of our crew was involved in a workplace accident. He was launched 30'ish up and about 200' across, as I write this I remember every second of it. Later that year I had an accident that also placed me in rehabilitation, he and I got to spend a lot of time together. After a year and a half he had gained about 80% back. A couple years later the old crew got together for a party at a lake in the woods, where do you think this guy called out hello from, the top of a freaking tree. He was showing the guys he had gained back all his use of his rebuilt leg;) We, all were still traumatized by the memory of the whole event, but he had moved past, somehow putting the whole episode behind him. So change can hurt in all kinds of ways but, it can also open all types of new doors we may have once moved too quickly past to see;) Patch

So what is your expectation by switching to a single carburetor?

still very smokey this evening here. Just took this pic, notice the sky, the pic actually reflecting what we see.

First off it is worth noting that Pairiehammer provided very realistic potentials. For myself when I F*** the pooch on an engine/ first thing is to not beat myself up over it. Now because we are comparing none comparable bikes, I can tell you that the old Susie's 1100 Kat had a over simplified fuel feed that ruined many an engine. If we fired one of those after they had a leak down, well like an old washing machine in a basement closet they would rattle and knock hard! So what to do next? You can measure all 4 @TDC using 2 straws and a 1/4" washer preferably one with an OD. large enough to not fall into the jug then, mark position with a felt marker ! Let us know if you aren't sure how to set this up. Or you can measure the compression again, and is what I would do. Now as I've mentioned to others never spin an engine with fluid above the pistons, unless there is zero chance of compression! Apart from braking rings you may bend rods if one cylinder fires and very likely, can crash the caps against the journals. Drain the engine and oil filter, remove the plugs, blow out the cylinders, get a cheap gallon of 40 weight oil, check compression if reasonable, start the bike. Now with a big mans screw driver that places your ear something like a foot and a half away from the engine listen to each jug at the base, just above the crankcase, and just at those 4 inside locations, listen to each one for about 10 sec.. Why we want a thick piece of rod with a solid handle on the end, is to dial out much of the other higher pitch noises! Same drive move to 2" below the top of the jug or head gasket, listen to the wrist pin, first clicking will be the valves they will click crisply, always in a rhythm/ you may also hear a very faint click which we ignore/ what you are listening for is is a knock similar to the end of a hammer rapping on a steel plate. Hopefully you'll just hear some minor clicking and swirling stuff, remember there's chains top to bottom it isn't a quiet place to begin with. If no hard knocking (remember the caps are not hardened steel) move on, if you suspect the journals then I would check oil pressure next, if that's low then... Patch