Patch

Was wondering how you made out?

Sorry Bob I responded on my way out to a wedding and perhaps didn't give the question you asked prior to, enough consideration! Well I see you got things sorted, it looked like a bit of a challenge with the bent bracket tabs.. Just so you know the recommended float setting is base on the overall rpm range for possible fuel consumption at WOT a mm here or there no biggy unless your on a racer.. Patch

Bob it doesn't matter who or when/ you are in there for a reason and we see that the bracket is bent. That is the answer as far as I can tell form here..

Ok I just checked what turns out to be your other thread. Take a very close study of the pics that prairiehammer posted and compare the tab bracket to the ones you posted. These must be perfectly flat and those shown are not! You need to be careful as you try to correct them or they'll come apart and you need to replace them. Insert a hardened pin into the pivot lay the float body on a smooth flat surface and apply pressure to flatten I think ones up and ones down so flip the float accordingly. I adjust the tab with a flat driver in between the tab and body which applies pressure to both sides of the clip. If you just bend with pliers then you rick doing what has happened You can pinch with long nose pliers to drop the height but I don't I rest the back on the bench for support usually

By the way, nice job cleaning the shells!

1st question, are these pics from the set you are working on? Are the float needle valves new? If so compare to the old ones. Now I have seen this before including the float jamming. Answer those and we'll take it from there Patch

For someone like myself who absolutely needs to dismantle everything combustion related, warranty combustion stuff is strictly for the business end of life. But the question was V twin over V4; well on that note I'm pretty sure I'd break it. Not to say the V twin won't last or that it isn't a superior technology, or that it won't have a loyal following looking down at us older gen's;) I'm just one that enjoys the higher rpm's and I need to pull on what I ride, so If I were to with this type of design I'd be repainting every other week. I'll grow up some day, like when I haven't any bones left to break

Yes they certainly nailed the front brow look. It's not hard to see the Yamaha styling either. Not sure those bright star like lights are DOT approved tho?

Hi Snyper, can you tell where the popping is coming from? Intakes or exhaust I can certainly share some thoughts on it. Often what is being described is the difference between a cold & hot valve! If there is even mild pressure above the valve it will not seat fully which allows for a minor compression leak to slip by the mating surface. And as you likely just guessed, when the valve warms it expands in all directions but logic would suggest that valve mass will offer more expansion. Smarter then myself metallurgist and machinist study and know what to expect, they decided how best to machine for... then forward us common folk what the specs are, wisely we follow their advice;) Could also be a little bit of carbon around the seat? This sometimes is temporary in that it clears itself or gets hammered into the seat angles at high temperatures. Another cause can be corrosion; this is more common when bikes have not run for a long time. This can cause pitting you'll reach that conclusion only after you first: check lash, perform some decarbonizing, and run the crap out of it over a weekend ride. Setting up to take your best guess would start with compression testing cold first, then as hot as you can work with. Or, some might choose to do a leak down test. But we are looking for both readings in such a case. If all the numbers came at lowish then we might try wet testing as well, the mileage and ownership would influence how to move forward. I didn't mention a possible bent stem because, as you mention it corrects at operating temp. My old Suzie's cough when cold, I think every old one that I've worked on has or still; but quickly seal after a minute or so. Check lash is a good starting point or compression test Patch

Hi Rich, sorry for the delay. In the PM I will be sending I set the bike up very differently to what I read in the above. However I got the exhaust wrong so this will change my setup a bit and I need to make some changes! The highlighted above suggest to me that the pilot circuit is wrong and I address it; but you will need to pull all 4 screws and line them up make sure they are in perfect shape and that all the parts are in order and good condition. If 1 & 2 won't trim then you have a problem that can go either way rich or lean. Anyways given that this engine was designed for the 28 mm then my opinion is that the stuff I have read for mods floating on the net do not account for cams or venturi, I've read some pretty off the wall mods that make no sense to me regarding this model and setup. I must say that the pipes have been my hurtle in this V4 setup. Personalty I see this for what it is and that is a noisy show, an unfinished thought to the combustion cycle. So we are running lean or rich? How much can we blame a non scavenging exhaust system? Another question is, can the "gasp" be a hot carbon spot? With all these oversize jetting not impossible. Can you tell me if the bike was setup as purposed in this ..... http://www.international-star-riders.com/starcruiser/vol2-7/AirRoyal/AirRoyal.html

"I have never measured compression or coils before but might be able to borrow devices needed to do so for the first time. I'm hesitant to reply to your question with, I'm not able! I'm just inexperienced." Funny guy, the only challenge for the compression test is taking the time to properly thread the adapter down thru the threads. We are seeing more often as these bikes age failing coils. Really the voltage test at the 2 terminals and that inexpensive gap tester connected to the coil and the spark plug will allow you to see what is going on through the rpm range say up to 4000ish Please take care not to get a jolt while testing, stop the bike when or if you need to increase the gap. I always run a fan when testing the bikes. And have fun!

PS. The popping Steven needs to be sourced. Lash checked? Might get a hint from the compression test.. Could also be carbon build on the seats. Ever pop up thru the air box?

Likely Steven (1200cc)& Suds (1300cc) there will be no magic bullet unless you both have incorrectly set enrichers? Steven, is the present gas mileage better, same or worse then before the rebuild? Sure you both know my posts well enough to know, I am a base line troubleshooter. Important to know what the compression is, nothing fancy, just cold cranking, note the reading at 5 revolutions but allow the rpms to max out, in other words what is the maximum pressure when the needle stops climbing. The reason for the 5 count, (I'm just sharing) is the difference between quick or slow build pressures. (sealing capacity) What is the mileage for both bikes? Steven do you know if they used a stock rebuild kit? Or up sizes? Simple question, are both air filters in good working condition? Steven are you able to measure your coils?

I get what you are wanting to double check. If you want to be sure what ever the motivation you can check while under 4 lbs. Just keep in mind the footprint under such a test is very small and pointed. God help those carburetors if they start leaking after install! Right?

Hi Rich, I put together a plan on what I would do if the bike was new to me just based around the combustion cycle. The info is based on my understandings and why working with the 28 mm is a bit more touchy. Of course if there is a an unknown issue with no. 2 carb your next go around would be to make sure that carb has clear passages. Sometimes a clean warm sonic bath can help clean hard to find blockages and a can of carb clean with compressed air.. I'll finish it off today and send it off to you if nothing else its an opinion

Wow what a temper that Wing must have had yikes! Could you imagine trying to take her out on a rainy day? No wonder those Wing guys don't wonder around looking at other bikes at the rest stops..

You should be feelen bad. What if.....

The 93 has very few problems other then typical age and long term storage issues. No second gear issues. Surprising again to see another low mileage bike again? You mentioned replaced engine Hmmm what is the reading on the odometer?

Of course you can - if you suspect an improper float needle valve function /then run it under load, just have a safe length of tubing above the bowl. Good question;)

Yep shes pretty. Not sure if its camera angle? Looks like the brake peddle is high?

There's a lot to consider with so much catalog tweaking going on? I'll say up front that I am a base line guy and if I aim for performance, I first start with the engineered base line which in this case is completely skewed. Where would I start? 1st for me is the 28mm and understanding what the aim was for this carb size. This would suggest to me that each jug has to work more to fill, this becomes a timing/or /duration problem, at least in my mind. Exhaust is a big deal here as it can severely effect filling volume, I see you are aware and replaced the baffles tho I would remove them at the moment. I would also check for a vacuum leek at intake 1. Now what Carl was mentioning, the way for me to avoid not knowing if... is to assemble the set, then bench sync them using at first a handy size drill bit once they are all held equal I set to the book spec. Then working the throttle a couple of times to check and see that they are all landing repeatedly at the bench mark! I am curious at the pilot screw turn out, this is another potential, to little then too large a jet too much well this one has to be rule on one step at a time.. Do reach out if you want to develop a plan or let us know what your plan is also type of driving. Patch

I had a chance to look closer today at the link. I think they did a very nice job with the conversion! Likely or possibly moving the injector bodies closer to the intake ports was impractical for this project?? I would prefer the stacks above injection where I could tune air flow and reduce drag and separation. Thanks for posting that;)

After you get familiar with the book specs like where every thing is located, it is an important chapter in the repair manual and worth hovering over the bike while going through the pages. There are some shortcuts and you really don't need fancy equipment to rule on the condition of the coils but the more you know the faster it is to get to the end. Checking coils I think I touched on this in the fogging post, first check for House voltage at the coils, so what ever the battery reads you want to be very close to at the coils. Example: 13 V at the battery 13 volts at the coil with key on and if you can remove the head lamp fuse during testing. Next set your meter to ohms, ignition switch off test between both primary terminals of the 4 coils. They should be within the book spec! Next and is the best of all checks for the coil output is the gap check. You can buy a cheap tester for this at the local parts store. Check this thread for some insight post 45 shows a simple gadget.. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?137076-Intermittent-Misfire-on-All-Cylinders/page3 The compression test will give you an idea of the potential punch the engine can deliver, so certainly not a tough one to do and well worth the setup. Easiest to do of course when the carbs are of for cleaning!

Now that does surprise me. hmm Well something for me to think on. Thanks for sharing