Patch

Likely a world of headaches.

I think its an MKI thing so if as I said it is... Then you can delete it

Not sure what happened I answered but it didn't post,,, So if it is what I mentioned there will be a hose attached to the bottom from the crankcase! Then yes if you wish you can delete it and perhaps sell or offer it up... It prevents oil from entering the air box is all.

If it is as I mentioned then it prevents oil from getting up into your air box from the (crankcase ventilation) is the hose attached to it from the crankcase

From the photo I would guess its an oil collector.

That a known issue with dem dar bikes;)

Yep;(

Hey Puc I know this feeling of loss most of us do. I was gifted with lots of sisters, got to say I was very close to them. Lost 2 to the big C.. I still laugh at some of those memories we lived thru as tho they were still a part of my life, perhaps because I choose to make them so. I take pleasure knowing they are out of pain and free to do all those little Angle things good spirits do! You will too. Because your faith in God and Christ are true then trust that he is doing what is best for your brother; those good time memories are yours to keep. You just keep right on loving him, and his light will stay lit. And by the way that highlight I know to be a solid chariot

What you might think of asking is, is the cylinder (s) flooding? Run the engine and pull the plugs, before the engine has time to warm up? Then when the engine begins to loose power check spark gap as mentioned, then again for wet plugs.

Well lets think,,, The vent displaces air as the bowl fills! When the float is up tight the bowl should be full and the gate is closed to fuel. When at idle your engine is running on the pilots. The main jet may pulse a bit. but I assume you blew thru while the engine was off and only one of four leaked gas thru the main.... Sounds like you have narrowed down the problem to a main which you can pull thru by removing side cap on carb, slipping out the piston completely and inspecting the needle then compare to another that you know is good for/as a visual reference, then let us know.. So if it's leaking then it may be flooding the cylinder at idle which will disable the ignition of the charge during idle. Is she back firing?

Ok I know you have lots of info to sort thru so I'm just going to reorganize things a bit. Rule 1 when having cold start issues, is voltage reading at the coils, you want 11 plus volts. Understand that pilot jets are just that, primary idle jets. This mixing of jet sizes has to do with cylinder heat balancing. Jet size is based on displacement first then air flows thru the venturi... After rebuilds you set the carbs on a bench for pilot and throttle plate positions (bench sync). this provides you a start engine calibration, only I start any and all of mine by setting the pilot screws just as you did! Then after start I tweak idle then pilot screws and I count by 1/4 turns up or down, I may do them 2 times before I am happy then I sync the carbs, then final pilot although not necessary usually. Another rule less than 7'8 turned out - the jets are too large, more than 2 3/4 turns the jets are partially blocked or too small! You have spark - you have fuel - what is your compression? Those are the 3 it takes to fire providing the starter spins fast enough. Puc is BANG ON and is what I would suggest to check for the source of this problem. But because you mentioned weak coil you should compression test and compare all four jugs. If memory serves the minimum is 190 lbs and I don't remember the permitted variance between, off hand. If you find them low, look up "a case for fogging" we posted a while back. Patch

Yep! Like cutting coolant to 50/50 properties, the ability to absorb is also cut but the ability to release/discharge is increased. Back to the complications of oils, as you mention above spraying the back of the piston reduces or maintains a more consistent piston temp, and thus reducing expansion and hot spots but there are trade offs... Oils need to maintain a constancy to maintain pressure while refreshing around the tight areas such as journals; yet must flow enough to not coke or gum. Racing oils may choose a formula that deals with the added heat from the added duty of piston cooling by increasing viscosity and by becoming more sticky at higher temps,,,, but there's a cost in balance at the inner shell of the piston which can have the opiate effect increasing expansion and slap from that same oil promising to compensate for it in their marketing statements in the first place and; all the while holding more heat in the sump! Nuts right cause you know they'll just tell you you need a larger capacity cooler to undo what they sold you on in the first place? In short some oils perform well in and under lab conditions but not necessarily a better choice for engine management conditions...

And how are things at home? So there has to be a check list to nail it down. First question is, could she be running to hot? And there are sub categories to this answer! For example does she lean out when hot, happen only hot and right after lifting her off the side stand???? If so then dirty bowls and shes leaning out. A sticking float??? But this could also be coils, as they age they can fail when hot, then cool enough to coil properly again! Could also be a pickup coil, I mention this because you are saying running like a twin... This is an easy one to check and the guys will pave the way. If it were me, I would check the coils first with a small gap tester just bring it with you and some gloves as you set it above and onto the spark plug while hot and run it stationary for the test's. The the pickups.. Patch;)

Let me share this thought. Many years back I was involved (I've mentioned this) with energy and heat transfer mediums. The education taught me much that I have used or transferred to other things. In an air cooled bike (I have 3) the oil has to carry and release the heat energy thru design cooling exchanges. This is an important factor in lube engineering. The volume passing through the exchanger (what ever the design) has limited exposure to cooling because there is no mistreat the cycle is continuous! So the choice of oil is very important and its ability to shed or release heat is a design compromise and factor. A racing oil will tend to work more effectively at higher than street temperatures, fine for track but a bad idea for... So perhaps ask which oils are being used, who konws where the question may lead? Patch

Well the coils get old like all things a duty cycle. All the coils should be changed and best not to use no-name products. But this does prove that the books way of testing ignition systems, is thru spark gap testing. Glad you got it sorted Patch

"I tought I saw" that the engine wouldn't turn! In my defense tho.. Flynfool fed me rum balls over at the chat room;(

Denso is a well known product. Yes to starting quicker, I don't have the time at the moment to get into the whys but full voltage and a strong spark when the engine is cold is ideal. Hope all your mods are so well thought thru and that you continue seeing instant gratification down the road. Cheers Patch

Welcome to the club! My first question is about the turning over of the engine, key on switches to run, press the start switch, then what happens? Patch

Forums are a collective a choice as is participation. Ring the bell

Well Puc that little putt-putt transitions nicely around 6gs, love the cam roll at low idle just begging to be rung out! I agree Bongo's comment also begs disagreement! I seem to be on a begging trip this morning not sure why the word just seems to fit this thread;) Anyways there is a gripe I've been begging myself not to bring up but what with leather and whips in the vicinity... I've lost all restraint against my better judgement. So last night checking in I noticed something like 237 viewers about 109 typical in the watering hole, not a bad count of 37 at Gen 1 and the usual 7ish Gen 2 forums! Here's the gripe (no I'm not distracted) only 4 members? Hmm In all the forums personally, I've only used the privacy switch for short periods and so too for most of the moderators. Think on it guys, this platform is ours to use as the rules allow true but, showing up hidden all the time... I'm not seeing the inspiration, is it not enough to have a handle? Kind of like comparing spandex & runners to leather and confident heals, in my opinion. So being a newbie to the Chat here's a question, are we stripped of privacy logging onto chat? Or are we exposed Neked (well not really because - we still have our Handles) For the VR Chat, are we really not there, or is anybody out there? Is anybody listing (you can guess song) I enjoyed reading your post Mama, nice to see a Lady roll up her sleeves and go after what she knows, she wants with confidence and class.

Think we made it all the way up to 9c yesterday!

Follow the link, top right hand corner of the page; you will notice each switching wire has a different color coding.. Red/Black is the power feed to coils, then white, yellow, grey, and orange switch thru the box to ground. https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf Just a note, not all stick coils are equal so if you develop a miss at higher power range/rpm look no further. Patch

Thank's Puc, I guess I can overlook your oversight;)

I bought this at 15, I grew 5.5" that year, didn't own a decent pair of fitting pants but I road a Norton and that was what mattered;) The fellow I bought it from was goin to the big house and needed the money to pay his legal fees; unfortunately he went in before we transferred ownership,,, man did I have cop hassles!

Yah! I did! New question: when you link on to chat, you are in the lobby which is where you see the activity, like who's on or what's being shared? Cause I don't see any activity or showings of who logged on, certainly wouldn't miss Mama's legs and whip, still have 20/20!