Patch

I use Mobile 1 straight 30 or sae 30 we liked in both MKII's

On this note I disagree; on my 91 this happened while I was on my return leg. At speed it is quite noticeable sounding like a groan which turned out to be chewing of the ring causes by the shifting pinion. While parking I experienced a long rollback then a sudden stop with notable noise, sometimes an inconsistent squeak was present at low revolutions.. As you know I still have a Cade, a sad truth in their history is lockup which will launch who ever is on the bike. So my opinion is if you suspect a problem inspect it and to not ride her till the potential has been eliminated.

Really the problem is that the air flow is slowed and unorganized. If we disturb the the flow above the slide's the design efficiency is lost. Perhaps if we think of it as a crowd of people moving through a gate all at the same time verses in an organized fashion resulting in a faster passage thru. Lets look for a moment at the design of the slide, it is round, it changes length and its tip when close is a port. Bernoulli & Venturi's rules not only apply here but are critical; they are in fact what drives the function of these carbs, in other words there is no bypass or override that will reset the balance of flow/velocity (these two combined are working partners). 2 examples that may shed some light, a fire fanned is the same as adding velocity to air, a variable intake verses the old styles single short port runs is similar in comparison. Zag some time back described in few words that he had to use washers between the pods and carbs, that is above the slides. As in the other post last week, the hard part to envision is why we need to carry the low pressure above the slides. The washer Zag mentioned does just that but, it will not settle or reorganize the air flow so in this case yes it will patch the rapid loss to atmosphere of vacuum, will actuate the slide or reduce stall but, the turbulence directly over the slide is a mess so efficiency is lost and atomisation at the main is severely effected! Changing jets will not correct the problem of lost velocity. There is more to consider as well; fatter jets cause compression issues over time and will lead to ring ware. Fatter jets only produce more energy if air flows and velocity are also increased (you have to keep heat expansion up), a pod alone will not do that. Which slides are installed in the carbs, and why? If you are running a touring bike then smooth acceleration or deacceleration are design features; this means the return springs and the slide cal port (the spring loaded hole in the port) are not designed for hard acceleration rather for smooth power! On the other hand running these touring machines a touch leaner makes for less maintenance than a rod that is built around snap acceleration. Velocity stacks are a fixed quantum/scale (the purest may object to the use of quantum) so then there is more to be found from the effects of the air chamber above the stacks and that is where the remaining balance is to be found. Just as a side note, these air chambers also produce harmonics, a totally different side effect but an added feature. Anyways... Patch

We have a thread called " A case for fogging" some tips in there. Listen I would unplug the fuel pump and let the carbs run dry before testing. If the bike hasn't run much then its possible to have some poor reading. All 4 plugs removed and make sure to keep the throttle pin open.

Your friend that told you that pods = more air = more power = don't know what he's talking about! More air at velocity = more power! If the wind is moven faster than the air flow thru the carbs then choose to ride in winds heading in your direction; kind of like learning to sail your bike;) On a more serious note tho your description of the effects is very telling. Pods on a direct slide carb work but degrade low end torque, with some gains at near WOT. On a CV Carb there is no benefit unless mods have only left that as the only option. Patch

Don't think of you as a knot head Puc, stubborn OH YAH! So to press out some of these wrinkles we created.. 1)When the air box is open the factory designed tuned flow is (one pulse per intake stroke) is disrupted. Shell and velocity stacks installed velocity is regained after entering and moving thru the stack. pause and think about this, a Venturi effect causing volume to accelerate, understand the benefits? Here's the hard part to visualize, the vacuum acting on the slide has lost some potential/effort thru the now open chamber above; so the slide reacts slower causing the upper and lower controls to remain out of sync longer ( throttle plate & slide) causing a stall below the slide. The stall is volume related (slide opening too slow not allowing enough air to pass thru @ velocity) that is the out of balance I refer to. 2) Again for the new too, fresh rebuild installed carbs, no shell no stacks, then no throttle just idle. 1 will likely respond well enough up to 1/4 twist then stall begins and you need to coax it. Its all fine when you are use to it and understand the condition is, as mentioned. 2 is just checking after rebuild things like flooding and or fuel crossing all 4 throttle plates... You are right Puc with regards to the flooding condition when the throttle plate at WOT with a reduced flow and velocity, all ports become wet regardless of fuel delivery system. two last things, thinking the the CV carb begins and ends with it casting is an incorrect view; it is a system from the intake manifolds to the air box induction port. The induction port is calculated for size - one pulse at a time/one intake stroke at a time regardless of engine speed. Filling a jug is more challenging then just twisting the throttle, filling it with the correct ratio for efficient heat expansion pressures is a complex sport and, thinking more air in boosts detuned street bikes with the simple addition of a fatter jet to compensate is just marketing BS usually leading to a carbon'ed up mess. (in my opinion) Want to make your bike perform? first know and meet factory standards then... Thanks Buddy you made me dig;)

Hmm how did we get to the crank? Puc back in the days when a quad set was in need of rebuilding was a ticket that ran over a grand, first step was to measure compression; regardless of how a shop viewed those results or what it could cost to bring to standard, it was a waste of money to rebuild the carbs if the readings were at or below minimum values. As far as the CV carb is concerned the importance of the results was ring condition or whether the results were valve related. Meaning you need an expect value off the intake stroke for the CV carb to perform. 1st hand experience is, when compression is very low then these carbs tend to allow operation tho slow, with the box apart. That is no different then and when we would diagnose worn rings with a $5.00 vacuum gauge off the manifold. I may be missing your point here but - at the bottom of the carbs the throttle position when wrenched open with an open air box will choke, as it should. Even if one were to baby it up to some rpm, what would be the point? It would not perform within a predictable performance or tunable condition. Strip the box off and go to pods, well what has to happen to make them work and just to say they work a scale cause the air flows above are no longer tuned! And that's a whole other topic which we've covered before. Patch;)

Not sure we are talking about the same things Puc? But at least we're talking LOL Sure if you want to evap the carbs, open it all up... But you know that we can't throttle these carbs with the box lid off so, you must be trying to get me to throw the frying pan at you again? Now for those that don't know, if you can throttle without the air box in order then there is an underlying problem, cause the air flows, streams and venturi's are out of balance; the top end and the bottom end of each are contradicting each other positions. Constant Velocity

Last I was there they were were overwhelmed by taking in (PJ's?) out of business inventory.. Come to think about it I haven't looked at bikes on a showroom floor in a while, I'm overdue.

This getting old stuff is tonally not fare!

I see the acc thru the pics but that could be he or someone added over time?? But truly she is a good looking ride, tho likely not as fast the blue;) My only gripe with mine was getting the front end to behave more along my riding demands. You may recall my posts on it some years back... But in both of the ones I set up I found that a stiffer spring brought the ride to life. Finding that compromise tho wasn't quick for me. Also I have to mention that she performed much better in the high winds we get here after cutting down the windscreen! To each his own of course. Personally I think the fork brace while not complained about, just not enough of it for my peace of mind so I kept an eye on it. The harness plugs all needed TLC and the fuse box changed... Now mine sat for years before coming home and her compression was allover the place, worth checking should you decide to call her yours. Now I know most won't agree with me here but I kept her lean and only fattened a bit on the last trip we took cause that year was hot and so much of my ride was slow construction and, once we pulled off after a hot slow afternoon I called it.... Remember there's a lot of mass and a big rad... I recorded my pipe temps at some point but by memory at the cuplink 235 to 260 ish that's in the shop fan running putting thru her scales. I'll share this too, I step my touring tuning for my riding notes, my finals for tuning are always based on dividing cruising rpm and hammer down, which in short means I'm tuning at high rpm not at idle! Doing that gave me performance, how I do it is keeping my tuning tools hooked up while running the scale.... Remember that these vacuum slides delay so tuning like a direct link slide isn't as crisp but nor does it dump when we hammer, so lean is more fruitful! The slide springs are a beneficial tweak point, (I used no shims) if you go there then you'll need more then one set to ring it out. Anyway you just need to trust the mass and coolant system... Yep its a big deal changing the rear tire but my Cade was/is much worse, I had to back in 07 at a motel

Listen Sweetheart, don't make me school ya in front of the kids! Seeing as you is in the mood.... What would twisting throttle without stumble/choking be a sign of... ifen the CV carb box was open?

Yep no joy with the air box open. I would suggest a kit for each. Often the plugs and gaskets are overlooked, I don't think that a good idea. Change the old stuff that deteriorates and be done with it. Pay close attention to the float set and for smooth operation, take your time. Don't forget to bench sync them, this save wet lumpy 1st starts. Patch

Wow she is very pretty!

3mm;)

Well GrassHopper;)

Exceptional Post! For a kid your age;) Patch

When a cylinder is running hotter than her sisters you have a lean issue! That is to say you have more air in the combustion cycles than the sisters. Choke creates a rich combustion, therefore a cooler set of cycles. To understand what is going on you need to consider the stage at which the combustion temperature on the effected cylinder is running hotter? Carbs will vary in syncing depending on who and what type of syncing tool is used.... So the good news here is that you say it runs smooth after warmed up and at cruise; that is where the sync counts, the rest is jet and vacuum actuated or slide condition. If one sister is too hot at idle (because for some reason is where so many tune and judge from)??? Then you may have a partially clogged pilot jet? Or missing the mixing or set crew or, it is incorrectly adjusted? Because the bike has sat for a long period you really should check compression, then puts with the carbs and tunen;) Patch

Power at the fuse on both brown and blue wires leaving the box? Make certain the cancelling switch is in working order or jumper it Check power brown white from signal switch to relay? Hazard lights are on a separate relay Then check with high beam on; yellow green is that feed and controlled by reserve lighting unit. If you have deleted that then you need to rewire directly to your flasher relay. Does the horn work? And when? Patch

If one reads history will one find the meaning of community? Cities have very little sense of community. People today stair straight ahead, lock their doors to and from work and gatherings. Who among us share moral values or take the time to listen to a saddened or lost soul? We judge more often than not and usually after the fact. Parents not all of course but too many have no clue how to be parents so, without compassion of community minds form strange self darkened destructive paths bend on disorder and punishments on our innocent unsuspecting defenseless love ones. Perhaps it is time to make accountable the parents? If they can show society that they have tried but failed then perhaps, the community with all its resources can intervene before lives are lost or destroyed? One way or another we have to hold the key to solving this breakdown in our societies. If not then the up coming generations will be ruled by weapons not them ruling over the weapons.

I have a bag of tapes in the trailer and box of pencils; both have pocket clips. I don't take offense when they need time away from me.

Just glancing thru here but have to ask.... When you twist the throttle is your air box sealed? It will choke out if the air box isn't together!

You are building a bobber, why are you stuck on a clutch? If you can't use there search then send an email they will respond.

https://abmotorsports.ca/ https://www.google.com/search?ei=J0y-XNPYLdfC-gT_lJSYCA&q=used%20%20motorcycle%20parts%20alberta&oq=used++motorcycle+parts+alberta&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0j0i22i30.4384.24635..25432...11.0..0.210.3487.14j13j1......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i7i30j0i131i67j0i131j0i67j0i13j0i8i7i30j0i8i13i30j33i10.WCDka8WR10I&npsic=0&rflfq=1&rlha=0&tbm=lcl&rldimm=1000039240683161329&phdesc=zofA8gojSa0&ved=2ahUKEwitoNvJ6-ThAhVzHzQIHbTACqAQvS4wAXoECAoQLQ&rldoc=1&tbs=lrf:!2m1!1e2!2m1!1e3!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:10#rlfi=hd:;si:1000039240683161329,y,zofA8gojSa0;mv:!1m2!1d51.3154918!2d-113.9463107!2m2!1d50.8933946!2d-114.0750975;tbs:lrf:!2m1!1e2!2m1!1e3!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:10 There one out of BC that has used and ships to AB. I know there a fellow up in Edmonton that has at least two MKI's Where are you?

Hmm? Same way I landed on planet earth Luv;)