Patch

Somewhere down the line someone will read this thread and take pause, not a wast of time IMHO;)

Right On Puc!

Hey, thanks for joining our club! There's a lot to unpack and I would like to explain some misconceptions that get spread around the net,,, Puc Flyinfool and I cover some of the theories around these conversions over a couple of threads, you could search them up if interested, we are rarely in complete agreement in our discussions but there plenty of experience we argue thru to share and hopefully of benefit to others! Now here is a couple of certainties I can offer you.... The 500 had/has a blow rear head gasket; the 500 intake and single shot will not mirror the Yam V4 experience! It's a sport so have fun with it, it can be an up and down ride;) Patch

Again here you can use the Mr.Gasket to secure your plugs, keep it thin by art brushing it over the plug and make sure it stays in position while curing. The jet block gasket is not expensive and last I check the market was flooded with them, should be replaced. Each port is separated by a ring that must compress the gasket. Now 5 turns either suggest your jets are to small or.... they are not clean those are your 2 options... A vacuum leak will show up in heat, fast idles and hanging rpm's... as tho the throttle plates are was still open! How ever, I would bet that your compression is off? This may seem confusing but the slow to heat is not just related to the pilots, they need the heat from compression as well or the cylinders keep running under wet cold conditions! So in other words soak the rings after reading compression, then you may find that one or two jugs are coming out a touch over max standard, and then you can deal with that after. How I would proceed: Carbs then compression test, then soak while tending to carbs. PS. don't forget to check the airbox boot seals, they too can take a touch of RV sealant at the lower mating surface of the box. Patch

They can also be repaired using a shop latex glove and the black Mr.Gasket. Just paint it with a thin layer cut the size patch that covers the complete diaphragm, then with a dry art brush lay the patch over, let dry over night... Patch

OH, Mama needs coaxing now before she teases? Like that's not goin to happen in a crowd of well behaved Gent's.. Can't believe you all didn't bring enough fuel to keep the party goin..

Drats, NO MAMMA in long tall leathers & heels, NO whip?

The pages are correct as to my service manual, a paper back one. Yes as to your screen shot but there is one above in mine as well as more on the next page 7-167. The reason for the drill is to simulate the sensor at high speeds. Yes I have done this, and may have as well on an 86 I can't say for certain but I can tell you it takes 4 hands to accomplish. The trick really is to keep the cable from moving down and out of the speed; some a e-clip that holds the cable some down't. Now I do remember that I have parts of a 86 cluster and I did need to scavenge some parts off the second unit to rebuild the tach and speedo, pain in the... job. I did find that the speedo was load but at the end of the effort all said and done the clicking noise was no longer notable. Because you mentioned it works fine at 59 mph, suggests that the overall unit meets functional expectation but it fails at 60 plus,,, so in my mind that is where you should concentrate your efforts. When I am tracking down such problems I step back and consider the complete unit in operation, break it down into components, then check each one checking it off the list, very much like you did in the OP. This is what would be running thru my mind in your position, it is a resistance problem, what is causing it, magnetic field or mechanical?! Again the bike at 59 will experience the same bumps as it will at 60 mph. I'm around today if you need more feed back

Let's assume this is so? The 28mm will perform sharply out of the hole, but with less HP however above the max torque output tho; simply put this becomes a % filling compromise. One formula that can be very helpful is RPM/MAP however the formula is usually dismissed because Makers don't publish their filling % which means we have to develop our own thru practical setups that allow for some pretty good guesses to enhance our targets! Why this understanding bears relevance is cause we often pic shortcuts - so lets pic one for sake of discussion, final drive swap. RPM is critical here because we need the extra band width/range so this make for at least 2 a valid arguments to make against or for some and for, for some. Yet I would argue that this mode in this discussion as mentioned with 28mm would be to snappy out of the hole for a touring class and a knock down horse power too soon on the curve; because as rpm increases filling and combustion timing become harder to achieve! That explained differently would mean higher wasting of combustion cycles. Also in other words the pump can't inhale enough air at higher rpm's which will come fast when measuring time over distance! I'm sure my thinking shows averages around and on a touring class rides, not all will see things this way but to the long distance rider... Displacement wise we can shift the 2 curves to modify our riding styles or wants, this is a great feature of the sport and a strong statement for the engines potential(s) and is in fact what Yam did when choosing the 28mm for this model while using the V4 platform, more cruiser than long distanceas in full touring day in day out. Make sense? Patch

My read 1997 shows 75 hp @ 4750 rpm and 81 LBS @ 3500 running on 32mm Carbs.. A couple of things, when you are cruising at as mentioned 55 mph your rpm's are low if in 5th gear for snap acceleration but ok for easy excell... This is not because the "5th hear is too high a ratio" it is because it is the wrong gear to be in for quick acceleration! These bikes are manual shifts not automatics with gear down over low pressure drops! If your only acceleration problem is when in 5th above 60 mph, then you have low compression issues, period! (or your brakes are on fire) If it is as assumed in the OP then it is likely as Puc mentioned your slides! Still it would hurt to know your compression readings. Patch

You need to inspect the pinion gear. Take the hub off and open it, it is not difficult to do, then you need to man handle the pinion see if its connected or sheared.. You Check the shaft Ujoint as Carl mentioned, also with the shaft removed put the bike in gear and listen for noise,,, likely it will sound normal, pointing again to the hub. Patch

Good post problem well explained. In troubleshooting we would refer to the above as a "hunting problem" I suspect 3 things. Item 3 above seems to me to be a discount reading or mechanical moment where calibration is lost or over shot. 1st you must follow the cables run making sure there are no twists binding or incorrect adjustments or the system will struggle at first then over shoot the target which then kicks the control logic into to wild cycling. There could be a load issue attributed to force and or counter forces which may be cabling or actuator under load! What that means is consider the throttle position and loading applied to the actuator which is suitable for well tuned cabling but, could overload the actuator as both the position and drag increase! The only way I know for certain to check vacuum actuated parts is by applying vacuum. For this you need a pump or fab one using a spray cleaning bottle head! (that is a pump) When you actuate the actuator it must hold position for a length of time; if you suspect it or the setup the immerse in a dish of water then check to listen for water in the diaphragm or actuate to squeeze it out - either way you must try to apply some counter force to the business end of the actuator, if it moves under vacuum then it must return to the last position or it is week/defective! You mention new pump, but what about the tubing between? You can again check with vacuum but, visual inspection proves only that you don't see the obvious or just replace the tubing. The speedo must run smoothly if it jumps at higher reading the system will crash. You need follow the test procedures for the speed sensor pages 7-166 & 167, however I would take it a step further I would 1st follow the book if it checked out I would then disconnected the cable at the wheel and spin it using a chuck at first slow (make sure the need lifts not backs down) then work my way up past 60 MPH keep it there (ignition on all switch to run bike on center stand) engage cruise! Follow the readings to see if there is any interruption! {I don't think I missed anything in trick the cruise control but if my logic isn't sound please post a correction} All this is of course assuming you haven't already solved the problem;) Patch

Well Thank you Chick! I hope I've steered you correctly, please post a pic when you open it of the old and new installation; this will help us help others down the road as these bikes continue to mature. I found the confusion listed on the web with regards to the new standard of Pulsor Coil / Stator Pulsor Coil / Stator Pickup Coil to say the least confusing even for someone who he knows what they're looking for!? I had finished late wee hours degreeing a set of cams I was already mentally whooped;) when I lucked out tripping over Yam's change to the single coil while referencing a substitute part number, tell you all I could hardly believe it! I bet Keven has an addendum kicking around? (Prairiehammer)?? Thanks for posting the issue Chuck Patch

Guess he had a sudden urge to get to a fire, not sure he found the one he was hoping for but likely so?

Doesn't sound like a big deal but,, it would mean you need more HP at higher rpm right. That would require more air in and out and, that is a big deal! My understanding is that the Vmax would deliver what you are looking for, same engine but higher performance characteristics such as cams, carbs 32mm to 35mm + V Boost, intakes then pipes followed by gear ratios... If a ride boasts a higher top end it means little if it takes too long to reach it right; so that requires more torque, at higher rpm's! Gets expensive right.. What you could consider doing now is going thru the bike making sure it meats spec? These old bikes after sitting a while can have dormant power just waiting for someone to wake it up. Patch

Yes I checked the 99 manual and the readings are higher I think it read 165 to 235ish... Anyhow I found these but I am skeptical as they don't list the ohm rating? Another note on these is I found them listed for 90 to 2007 for ventures and VMax which would be wrong according to my research. So I would send them a note asking for the rating before ordering... This site shows them listed for 90 to 93,,, Yam apparently changed things with the pickups in 1990 but to my knowledge the manual covers 86 thru 93... Patch https://www.hpi.be/item.php?item=P4901

I'll need a bit of time to do some research for, but you would be best served to say within the ohms count as that is what the control module is programmed for. Maybe other members will chime in with their take's, either way I'll post later tonight or early morning. Patch

Well Ms. July657;) I must admit it took something over a few minutes to understand how the recorder fit the comment I admit embarrassingly(: Yes for a minute there I thought you were secretly communicating with me? See my recorder hasn't worked in decades, so I thought finally I am found and soon I'd be beamed up and off this 3rd rock from the sun(: DRATS! But NO Ms. July657 you have not come to rescue me (: you just tripped over my universal alien language to French to English translating gadget I communicate thru! Double DRATS Now, if you stick around, join the club get your stripes; then I can assure you that you will enjoy much more of my word fumbling especially when our Brother Puc (cowpuc) gets to pickin on me and my theories/problem solving....! Oh puc Ms. July is going to have some reason for confusion with that there lop eared varmint word smithing of yours me thinks:) Welcome to the club and I must say, gorgeous smile! Right guys? I think I'm being picked on but I'm not sure? Need me an upgrade for this old Universal translator gadget that should at least read what my sensitivity level should be! Or maybe Ms. July657 really is or has an older recorder for me to call home with? Or, Maybe Flyinfool could design me a new one, after he finishes that saucer he's disguised as a disk surfacing gizmo,,, in his basement of all places, really who's goin to fall for that;) ?? Patch "tape measure"

MKII's side by side the Metz and Mich Commanders out performed in heavy rains thru puddles! The Mich set were also smaller sized and gave it a quicker/lighter feel. The Metz on my ride made her funner to ride but I could the Mitch lean in quicker quicker, however the radios is quite a bit lower tho I can't see it effecting a touring ride other than just excepting that fact. Good choice, enjoy the ride, stay safe, don't forget your age;) Healing takes longer

Would you mind elaborating?

Hey Randy here are some tools I have used and what I use today that have worked for me from 7 to 8. Remember that Webroot works differently than any other security software I am aware of, it is not stored on your computer, meaning it works over a cloud. What it will do is monitor a bug by tricking it into thinking it is running home to Momma where as in fact it is being watched and studied by Webroot. If Webroot has already logged the bugs behavior then it will lock it down.Since I have been using it I haven't had any concerns with it nor have I seen any logs showing quarantine and all my net searches as you know are Webroot deemed safe. Webroot was the only home use software at the time I started that would reverse ransom ware, something my industry had been hit with often. However I also use another sidekick software found here https://www.malwarebytes.com/mwb-download/thankyou/ I've used this one before switching to Webroot but now just as backup running side by side in safe mode with networking kind of like boot camp inspection, whenever the mood strikes me. The full version version I found to be too hyper vigilant for my liking. But I 1st started with this Windows Defender Offline in safe mode with networking for the download. Yes its a manual operation but my computers stayed clean with it, the concern is down loading it on an infected computer may corrupt the files but like I said I never had issue using it! https://support.microsoft.com/en-ca/help/17466/windows-defender-offline-help-protect-my-pc Down towards the bottom of the page you'll find the link;) Patch

Thanks I didn't know that.

To be sure and not that we suggest we know better then your mechanic; he would serve you best to also ​ check the air line from the compressor to the forks for fluid trapped in them.

I don't agree that a post such as,,,is a flaw Puc in fact it is a gift! It wasn't your post that made me laugh it was Luv's reply then followed by your, need to push the rev limit;) Tell you a quick one; yesterday morning I offered help to a neighbor which usually revolves around passing over the fence some carpenter tools. I get a kick out of both him and his wife as they are retired now, yet always looking for something to fix around the house, he swings and she backs him up, never more than 10' between them! Now I could say that's not the way to do whatever but I get that he is her hero she admires his way, his effort and I smile deep down and just keep passing another tool over:) Also yesterday SK had asked me to do some repairs to his SUV so I was working on it when a young fellow I had seen once before in our lane, hangs with the kid next door say 18ish... first he approached me asking to listen to his engine, timing chain guides I said.. Second time he asked if he could borrow my floor jack parked inside but close to the open door (so in plane sight) and I said I just had my small one stolen so that big one might be too big for your car... Let me shed some of what I picked up from this kid, no confidence, approaches older men with eyes low, then says its ok I'm sorry to bother you... The third time he ask his friend to ask me a question, the question made no sense so I said wait till my hands are free and I'll take a look. So I did, but now more of his friends showed up all hovering around with clean hands and knees; I'll tell you somethin else, he was the only one there that didn't have a PHD at home, in fact his old sport Nissan had more patches on her than I do holding me together - where as the other rides had fancy paint, mags.... So I knelt down by him as he began panicking out his problem. Here is what he was attempting to do, install the connecting/tie rod from the strut to the torsion bar. This tie rod has a small ball joint at either end and when he would attempt to turn the nut down the stem would rotate! (: I held the rod in my hands and said take a good look at this and tell me what you see? He went on to explain that he thought the problem wash the "white ring" in the nut and "am I suppose to remove it" ok I said take another look and I pointed to the head and asked, what would hold this end while you tighten the nut? He grabbed a socket up off the floor and said "one of these" Not wanting to embarrass the kid I gave him the answer and the size and guess what that wasn't enough, I had to pick one up off the floor to show him what a key/wrench/spanner looked like! Now here's a curve ball for you Puc; As I watched how difficult it was for this kid to brave forth a question, I could not help wonder what ill tempered S.O.B/Bastard broke him. You Puc are a patient fellow who goes way out of his way to explain your experiences; not only do you do so regularly but you do so with humor, so, just keep on your roll Puc it works for us. As for how I would punch and set, punch was covered and for set for someone that never done it or rarely, block of wood till flush then torque the rest in on wheel installation; or a threaded rod 2 nuts 2 washers, but I do have a press so...

GOOD One! lol I'm going to laugh this off for a while, writing thru teary eyes! Poor OP trailered bike to a shop.. Puc you sure can bring life to a party!