Patch

For when you need a laugh;)

Well if I were to, I'd certainly appreciate a seat soon afterwards; along with that drink I refused before deciding to ride;)

Got to wondering about your disk, slotted? Wonder if the hard stop (s) are showing a sticky caliper?? Anyways stay safe out there and yep nothing quite like closing distance on an immovable or dead slow object, or like a combine, moose, geese out for a stroll, a fire hydrant on the wrong side of the curve, loose gravel just ahead of the perfect line thru a twist.... Ya gots to love the sport

Just a quick comment on what is being refer'd to as the vacuum port; it is a tuning or calibration port; not all slides have them, and for different reasons. Note the port diameters, one has a quicker response then the other! This steadies the needle making for less wear in the long run. You can cheat the ports or spring them with alternative spring numbers, sometimes it is preferred to do so before changing needle size. Patch

Really Mr. Campbell? Could you be a little clearer? Maybe just stick to the facts, and just the facts? Please. Another amazing gift of experience Sir!

You betcha; nothing like getting Puc to stand his ground! Lord knows he does it to me lots

I always thought you a big guy Casey, but I have a clearer picture of your size now! Agree after decades of working behind locked garage doors keeping my tricks to myself some years back I had my laptop stolen and so with it went my best of the best and is why I hesitate to post formulas anymore... It takes a lot of net reading to find the truth and I just can't pull them up randomly anymore! You are absolutely correct about loosing your hard won gains thru the exhaust. There are some passive tricks tho, a good example of tuned exhaust comes from two strokes which dates but, a German fellow in the 20's I believe nailed it and much of what he did was build on yet his prints remain. Another good example for a stock setup is the MKI (my opinion) think along the lines that at rpm you will have velocity around the muffler as the bike runs thru a tunnel of air flow, the smart guys took flow fundamentals for the tip converting the pressure from high to low. This creates a passive siphon! So why do this? We know that flow wants to equalize, and we know that narrowing creates velocity because of the fact that volume flows want to stay constant (being brief); we also learned thru Venturi that we can use this as a mechanical advantage so connecting pipes to match firing order proved to be in our favour. However we had to figure how to reduce inevitable separation of flow @ TDC so valve timing overlap was and is still the solution for clearing the remaining exhaust out from the combustion chamber! If we walk it back a bit say when I had shoulder length hair, we tuned our headers length by flame, what we should of been doing is working to reduce that flame some first, then deal with the left overs. The reality of it is that we waist expansion heat tossing it out the exit ports and, the higher we scale the beast the more we wast in HP is lost; torque being a different beast cause its at a different scale range so it proves to be more efficient result; torque being a constant because we are rotating the crank and the math is all in proper working order, where as HP is say brutish. Lets mix it up a bit, fuel ignition is a timing problem; as it gets compressed we need to - not want to ignite it before TDC. The problem is that it keeps changing shape and it can separate before and after ignition! Less so with dish tops but still a real potential! It will relight up in the chamber but, too little too late. All walls have an effect on flows and its called the "wall effect" so whats the answer? Sequential firing (my opinion) and I have experimented with it same engine with and with out; its a winner (not these engines)... Lighting the changing shape charge at both ends is very efficient use of the charge and causes greater expansion which means less wasted thru the exit hence more foot pounds of pressured to accelerate the piston! The first foot of piping needs to be full (rule of thumb) the back pressure is and isn't a myth in a naturally aspirated engine. What the words suggest is that we want to keep the flows unbroken and moving! No cats no compressor so 1/4 or less of a pound should be close. But to scavenge you want to sequence your pipes and you want them to pull exhaust not air so a tight system is needed, (like waiting for an elevator in a high rise) next next next! One more mix because I think we're in the watering hole forum? Backfires: backfires suggest up thru the intake not exhaust, but its become common to reverse it so... On the Gen 2's we read this often and it is often suggested that the fix is found in the exhaust pipe integrity! No Sir's... that is not the problem nor is it the question that should be asked. The Gen 2 runs a higher compression, one would think as a result less unignited fuel should be discharged yet that doesn't seem to be the case, so why? There may be 3 explanations, ignition timing or poor spark, low compression, or incorrect jetting? Patching the pipes only masks the problem (my opinion) Here's a thought, if you pump directional air thru the exhaust system at a greater rate than that of the push effect from the exhaust stroke; you get what effect from above that directional air flow? Think Venturi Patch

Wow Casey there's a lot of unpacking in your post. So some yes and no's, true flow becomes a problem that is to say both in and out. So does combustion timing and so too ignition timing... Now consider piston speed, mass, acceleration and deceleration, the reversing strokes @ TDC & BDC, then factor in wear such as ring lands and valve springs = flutter or floating.... So the older the units the higher the risks. As I'm sure y'all near sick of hearing the MKI & II is designed as a touring unit, so, not sure why we choose to compare it with her crazy sister as often as we read. Where we get the horse or torque mostly is from the heads after we've figured crank angle & lever potentials cause we can't over leverage the power stroke. Port design is a big deal, so is everything regarding flow, volume and velocity in both directions. At high rpms compression falls off cause % falls off so longer burn times, means more combustion power tossed out the exhaust ports. Exhaust is a difficult subject Casey and too often one that usually doesn't end well... Piping larger then the ports causes velocity problems which in turn causes % losses which of course kills the power and torque curves. Now you can design with that in mind like with cam choices with or without overlaps, lift & duration's excreta... When we build for power we also need to except that maintenance schedule and increased operating cost.. And we haven't thought about power transfer, which will of course run the revs up... Remember the advertisement "pay me now or pay me later"

"A LITTLE HIGH" you say hmm! Wasn't it like 30%ish above max? That loading is from the piston down to the crank; Luv my nuts! lol If it were me and it wouldn't be, I bolt a shield under the saddle... Might just save 3 nuts Sorry Buddy I couldn't resist the poke

Not that easy! 30 HP at the crank is a far distance from the contact patch. In order to build the power output you must first address the % of fill, that's the ***** in the game! Next will be the velocity cause one without the other is a "slow horse" for any track run. Then comes the obvious ratios and exhaust flows! To achieve this you need sweet talk the "gate keepers" and that's where the money is, both from the givers and the takers.... hmm hmm Agree with you. Ya But Luv!!! As I recall not given away secrets here...but... You have some extra squeeze to what she inhales; least wise till she says enough is enough and starts spiting nuts and bolts at you Patch

Of course Casey; I'm looking at it thru my usual efficiency thinking;) On a drag machine one thing you don't want is loss of energy before the contact patch. Every thing about these bikes bleed energy which works for a touring ride.

Of course it quiets the engine, that does not make it the correct oil for the engine, nor does it help should a warranty issue arise. Patch

I have at least one brand new still in the bag and may have another in the MKII bin on the top shelve, I'm going to climb that rack one day;) For the corners, you could cut rectangles out of the abs tool kit boxes we throw away, textured black makes a decent decal

Why Sandman mix the two categories? Touring and Drag are worlds apart begging from the frame up & out, kind of like racing a sofa, you can but why? Patch

Right on! There must be some French in ya Carl;)

Cha, does the bike roll back excessively when you park in gear and on the side stand? If so then you must address it, that would be the pinion and its trouble if it kinks and likely will lockup. If not then could be the bearing and an easy fix, just like what was mentioned take the stamped number off the existing one, easy find at the local Nappa Patch

Yah I was goin to rub it in too, but, you know what Dad always says to me "I have no idea what you are trying saying"

Quite the story! Was think this right up Stomping Tom Connors ally, of course that is if he was still singing, or breathing;)

It is a dynamic flow problem first, then you can scale the jetting! You must consider throttle plate angles - or you starve and flood the jugs because of the lack of plenum, spacing above the plenum, verses the effect of plate angle (s)... so one side floods the other starves Patch

Hi Graham, I am still working on the OP so, if she has a want to fall when leaning into a curve? You will find that fix usually, in the forks. There are exceptions as others mention, like a loose head bearing which causes the frame to pivot on the stem, but you will hear it knock if that is the case. Patch Good post again VideoUknowwho...

What would serve you best is to post in this forum: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?8-Venture-and-Venture-Royale-Tech-Talk-(-83-93) And the guys will walk you thru all the steps! Patch

My impression of the whine was the basket design on Yam's. The problems with additives and those that coat is the cylinder walls not gears or bearings. Enjoy the ride Patch

If it were me, I would check the forks with the axle removed compressing each one at a time.