Patch

Listen,,,,,,,,,,,,, you are fortunate that the intake valve seats are leaking the pressure! You are way over the max compression limit! The bike has been run way too rich, for way too long! What is the mileage? You have too risk decarbonising, I haven't covered it but I can it in my fogging post but unless you want to pull the heads we can try it chemically. Patch

Good info Tennessee. My view was not that one pad has more wear, its that the pads may be wearing at an angle, in other words not flat. Patch

" dave_wells mentioned "Stiction" whereas we had to apply braking force, and then all of a sudden that piston broke loose and locked up a tire, and I think he may be on to something there, with a little mis-alignment of the caliper. I am agreeing with him on the "stiction" point. However, not to the point of changing my ways. A correction maybe, Dave didn't mention Stiction he spoke of expansion.. Stiction is a tolerance problem that accrues under rapid friction cycles within very tight tolerances. That is not the case here, binding though maybe an issue. Look in the end the carriage should be parallel to the plain of the disk. Pressures want to equalize but first they prefer the path of least resistance. Hydraulic fluid is about pumping volume and pressure is a result. If there is an uneven wear issue check alignment, then check and clean the casting and pistons replace seals and boots. If the two sets of pistons are designed not to exert equally then there is a flow restriction between the wells but the pairs should apply together and on time, an angle will interrupt that. If you have a lockup problem then the system needs to be re-balanced, such as reducing flow or an adjustable spring tension accumulate. imho Cheers

OH! I'm going to look it up, I assume 2 & 2?

If this is what you are experiencing at the moment as well then you should post the issue. I'll split the problem by color.. This suggests a pilot jet issue. This suggests a leaking at the needle so, opening the throttle compensates with more air added to the mix! This represents a power issue not a start or idle issue Bring this to a new thread and let us help.. Patch

Diaphragms should last longer than what you are experiencing. In any case though, rebuilding is not necessary to change the piston/slide diaphragms; simply remove the side covers and its all there in front of you!

Well I for one did not notice you weren't here, on the forum that is. Just like I haven't noticed that Cha hasn't written in, in a week come tomorrow... Hope your Mom recovers soon!

I vote Puc the youngest poster in the thread;) Really how can being a mod on this forum, with us Gents, be anything like work? Right Carl?

Yep its the board!

If there is a chance that the coolant circulated then yes a flush is a good idea and you can use seafoam for the flush as well! You don't need expensive oil for the flush. But you should run it for say a half hour or an hour short ride, change the filter just the one time or both times budget permitting... Either way don't cheap out on the filter Patch

I think if you want to skin the cool black cat then the challenge as I see it is the bolt shank length. Technically Du RRon is correct because the bolt shank would be shortened by the say 2mm +- extension; which provides an X-axis for the joint to move and possibly wear! Mind you too long a shank would get you in another world of hurt so if you have a bolt supply house that sells real thinking hardware then take that one bolt to them and see if they can match it but shim thickness longer (for this discussion say 2mm) Or join a less smart forum that don't give a cat chance at sniffing out a rat's, ass;)

Some time back (I know I'm not alone in this experiences) it was suggested to me to continue to process "stuck thoughts" This is such a thought that maybe I hadn't given much effort to but,,, my last thought on the issue is, if a piston is forced forward, the resistance to movement is considered the effort. Direct transfer/straight line is required to allow the piston to actuate freely in both directions given the tolerances that are assigned it (eg. no binding). When we look at the back side of a brake piston the pressure plate area and wall length with seal (s) should keep the piston in alignment, unless; and in these cases when the carriage is skewed.. The resistance from the pad is a given, and this unexpected angle at the load bearing contact surface results in off center "point" of contact ;;; so wait there's more ;;; the pad backing plate you say can take it, ok (I go there reluctantly cause it is a laminate) but not the piston and certainly not over time, it will move to the opposing side then it can and will likely bind; that sticking will cause the pilot to push the peddle further applying more force then should be necessary, the piston snaps out of bind locking the wheel,,, that a real maybe and in imho very plausible! Not saying the rest of the system is well matched to the diameter of disk but this certainly can overwhelm the stopping effort May I now have a gold star sticker please? Patch

If you would like to discuss the potentials, I suggest you look up our discussion on this topic. Unfortunately I can't remember the title of the thread? Maybe Puc or Flynfool does? Post there if you like after reading the give and takes we hash thru it. You won't change my mind with regards to this type of adapter but I have thought thru some progressive carb linkages that could benefit power output. Air flow is the heart to the engine, so you need 1st match what is there, then aim to improve on it. You need to lower the setup. I have commented on the setup you linked somewhere in a repost, not sure when that was, it is the same setup/adapter as what we see here. Patch

Ya Ya not likely... "OK, I'll shut up about my good fortune...for a while." Aint it always so, from hunter to bragger You know Luv that is a gentlemen's ride so keep your nose down when you passing the broken downs... note: after fixing the class board it was good for a while then it started acting up again.. so I took a pic with my phone then enlarged it finding more cracks at the other end of the board, she remained good after that.

From my experience with the MKII, if you have the legs to manage it, it is a sweet distance runner and you can really pack for two up. I especially liked her manners when dipping a shoulder and pointing a knee, or pushing hard off the pegs, also that she showed quick good balance standing after a hookthru... On the open road I liked her tall long feel, hard to find a big touring that will tack off a beam wind like she does too, maybe strange to see from the rear but she does it well and its not tiring. The trap is as with all these stored bikes is working out the kinks; wiring connections, jets, sagging spring and good rubber not budget carp... Then the linking question........ yikes.... I really enjoyed the linked brakes Patch

I get where you are coming from however it would simply bug the **** out of me and like others I would need to correct it to a reliable conclusion. I don't like the thought of uneven pad friction, period. I know on these models with the perforated venting you may most likely not notice pad angle as much as slotted disks which will grown like a steel grid bridge, still; in my view it remains wrong. The uneven pattern has to cause an alignment distortion while under pressure loud's. Now follow that distortion down to the hub bolt ring and the design spring (finger) tension is not flexing on its planned plain, (because the carriage is not parallel to the disk) you can't have it both ways, it is or it isn't! Whether or not the active pad is remaining true to the disk has to be asked as well,,, the piston must be 90* to the disk plain to be effective and deliver equal force over a give load bearing area. There are no maybe's there's only a right way, not a place for compromise imho Patch

For me and others like minded combustion is my favorite part of the sport, also where I have made some of my most costly mistakes over many decades! So I certainly understand the desire to mod and accomplish but, it doesn't happen by luck it really takes a lot of study then, your projects become the classroom. Without the study its difficult to understand where the mistakes are, and to use a term we "wash out"! I have a post somewhere on the site where I laid out some thoughts about a couple of conversions I would like to do. One on a V4 and the other a straight 4, both will require head work and flow monitoring. Starting with how they are and then how I can improve on the filling %'s! So what I am saying is that adapting a something to a something is not always a gain unless you do the math and for that, you need to establish bench marks, for that you need to put study into practice... my opinion Take the thought you are bringing into shape above, how will it draft not one but two fluids? Where will the drag and resulting friction (s) concentrate; how will the turns effect the consecrated/condensed transfer of air/fuel, where will it separate and pool...??? This is what I look at in ports, floors its a very big deal, next walls, how tall how wide where if any are the hidden narrows and how will they impact, then ceilings. Plenum is different, texture evap traps and the patterns when carborurated are again very important! Injection setups are a different set of equations but what I am seeing is folks are wanting to take parts of the different theories ignoring the properties that separate their behavior; as far as I know you just can't achieve better that way! Lets take a quick look at your initial thought above.... Where we see straight flats what we'd likely prefer to see are soft flowing directional shapes (yes I know that complicates the cad) but its a one off so a pencil should do. You'll need to make a head port template which you'll pencil around in the cross sections which will prove/develop the flow shapes for modeling, it won't be easy but if you can't sketch it then how can you build it. Next likely remove or delete the adapter thinking so, remove the down pipes and lower the intake right to the head ports incorporating a down angle instead; this will lower the body allowing you to design the plenum area above and. will also provide room for a buffering chamber for turbulent flows below the throttle plates! This will reduce greatly directional pressures to feed one side over the other directly related to throttle plate angles! You cannot ignore velocity so you need to conciser head port shape final size, your will see thru sketching that the port runners will want to widen and narrow, take advantage of this, because it impacts flow and velocity, you will gain by growing your understanding of why this is so! How much flow/volume @ what velocity will the head ports flow thru that qubic area, remember velocity is critical? Yamaha knows the what's and whys so to improve on the design you will need to establish those benchmark or its just hearsay! If simplifying the fuel system delivery is the goal then that will likely come at some performance cost? If performance is the goal then that will be found in flows and %s of fill and that gets costly! Believe me I know first hand... There are many floor tricks that I haven't mentioned here nor have I suggested any head porting so, the heads stay stock and reversal down the road is easy to go back to the CV;) Patch Edit: I can't express how intricate a problem this can be and/or its impact on the apposing ports will also provide room for a buffering chamber for turbulent flows below the throttle plates! This will reduce greatly directional pressures to feed one side over the other directly related to throttle plate angles!

I caught glimpse of your reply during the day, knowing you I thought maybe I'd kick it around a bit as to why you is wrong about it! Well modeling the loads (in my alien brain) I see our mistake at excepting this patch too quickly; Hmm! First thought we know we should have a bolt that is strong enough with a snug shank so, movement should be limited once compressed/torqued!? However the active and continuous loading is rotational and therefore I have to change my mind and agree with you Mr. Du no R Ron'g! The hardened washer would be technically incorrect.. hmm hmm Patch

Welcome to the club! Wow nice seeing how many posts included compression test! !st, you you establish a budget that is reasonable for the age and mileage of the bike, then post it and let the guys help you reach it. 2nd remove the carbs, ZERO sense to me to do anything with them at this point on the bike! You will be looking to change some gaskets and clean the pilots jets (easy step) check bowl levels, inspect the needles and diaphragms. Again posting pic help us help you. 3rd you do the compression test follow the link below. Most likely we can help you level off the compression if needed. Post the mileage of the bike. Stay in touch with the group and they will show what makes this club different then the rest;) Patch https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?137296-A-Case-for-Fogging&highlight=case+fogging

Nice fork covers Kisa! As you adjust your jets, keep an eye on the temperature or check the exhaust temperatures. Best to continue checking the spark plugs all 4 and note the changes and colors down. Patch

May I suggest a different way? I'll take your pause as a yes If the pad is new and flat could you not use the backing/rubbing pad to align the rear caliper, instead of measuring, and instead of maybe grinding off material that might otherwise serve best if not removed? Not to say you can't divide the caliper bridge but, center at the bridge may not be center of the disk... there could be an offset! Just a thought

And there is no adjustment or play in the mounting bracket? So be it.. Wow I guess Grandpa Puc must be out pitching tent somewhere under the stars? Thought for sure he'd accept my invitation

This is the reed switch cleaned, it was quite heavenly coated from oils flying of the cable connector and dust but not likely going to influence its performance. Glad to hear you're happy with it.

The spacer/washer makes sense to me; what doesn't make sense is why? When odds don't add to evens I can't overlook the why's

And the reality sets in. Part 2