Patch

Not in this case. The fitting was a tel tail and should not be overlooked. I mentioned the use of a flush; this in my opinion is a must do now. The ph of the coolant has been way out for way too long. There has to have been tap water used in high concentrations which, introduced oxygen and other dissolved minerals in to the closed loop system, period! Lets say the fan is not switching to run: this is a simple switch set to run above 215* so if they are known to be reliable then what could cause a working switch to fail its run temp? Corrosion would insulate it, right... Why assume corrosion, because the corroded failed fitting tells us of it presence! A fitting is sacrificial true but it is also a glimpse to the inside conductive surfaces.. Hot wire the fan, make sure it runs, easy to do. Flush the system with your choice of chem. Fill with a 50/50 mix for aluminum engines. Add Bars coolant stop leak/lube (is my choice) Does fan run? If not then switch is at fault. Remember a close coolant system is just that, close off to oxygen with the exception of what is present in the original mix,,, which is compensated by the use of inhibitors! it's just that simple

Thank you but, you all know Puc pulled me out of my shell so ... thanks buddy for pushing me to share more more often... V.C. sometimes we just need to step back and figure where we assumed too much! I know I've had to many times and, after 10s of K$ spent ,,,so that is all a part of the sport!

I may be rong but I think it has something to do with a conversation I had recently.. If so then all I can wish is well come and your experience riding will ne a welcome share😉

Yes sir you are correct and I did forget to mention that. 50/50 will boil at 223* but under 15 lbs it will be closer to 268* (3* per pound) The combustion heat is above 1000* but, is not just a local area- as much of it is conducted thru piston then oil cooling, valves then mass sink. So, the coolant can jump several degrees around the top combustion area and an air pocket will super conduct and cause an additional expansion pressure increasing the size of the pocket (the quirk being air is compressible fluid not): the pump will continue to push the pocket at a slower rate as the fluid under pressure will follow the basic laws of ( pressure wants to remain equal and volume wants to maintain) which will for a time stall/trap the pocket movement. Hmm go figure;)

No man, that just cold weather up in Northern Ontario, where the Bear rent motel room to stay warm;)

I ride with 2 helmets. When its very hot riding I switch out my fave for one a touch bigger and a touch louder. I wear full face units ,often with the visor up slightly. A couple of quick ones: When I had the big crash my helmet flew off on the last of many impacts. 2 reasons they were able to rebuild my hand was 1 because I was wearing web gloves and 2nd my hands and arms were very developed from steeple chasing/climbing, my wallet save my right cheek and my jacket kept my upper joints together, my boots ground down the first band of leather which is why I still have a heel;) Of course I could look at this in a more possessive way thinking back about how upset I was at the hydrant being on the outside of the bend; considering I was burning thru my skid shielding lol My son late at night trying out his new gear before we were to leave on a cross country tour, at night crashed and was propelled like a chopper blade about 8/9 feet off ground. He hit a parking sign with his fancy expensive helmet. The EMR checked the helmet for signs of damage in case of head trauma and nothing was found but, the next morning there was a large chip laying beside it on his dresser!!!!!! Like any sport machine proper gear is a smart choice, IMHO

That bike looks loved!

As You see I've done a bit of cold weather riding over the years;) If you have already used a rad flush then the deposits should be gone. Yes the spring points down. At the moment and from this distance I am not certain that the Tstat is bad, but you could do as Spence mentioned run it without, leaving the bypass alone. Again from here, we are trying to accept that 2 heat coils are failing, one on the rad and the other on the new Tstat? Cause if the stat is failing then you will have a boil over at the expansion tank, right?! And I don't know if I trust the reading of the gauge at this point after you mentioned you had an issue? Make sense? What cha think?

"Thanks patch got the exhaust fixed, and it isn't leaking at all anywhere. But it just did something it has never done. Was going up to the store about 5 miles away halfway there the temp gauge hadn't left the very bottom then all of a sudden it started climb all the way to the top quickly. " OK we'll start here: the thermo switch is an inline a unit (at least in my manual) when the engine heats up the flow from the pump drive the hot fluid to the rad and past the switch which is in fact a resistor which alows for more curent to flow thru and feed the meter. If as you say the meter was disturbed then there remains a problem to address? perhaps So I stopped and the radiator was steaming a bit for a few seconds. ​The rad was still cold as in your mild winter cold, so as it warmed it may have just melted some ice that had accumulated from condensation? Then as it evapped the steam you saw diapered! likely If the engine is overheating then the rad will boil over and the engine will ping like that of a car with loss of power. "What I've done so far is fix the hose, flush the rad and change the tstat. Would a water pump cause that to happen? or could it be something more serious? " Yes the pump will cause over heating issues. Now important to run the correct 50/50 mix or slush will result on the rad, the sudden input of hot coolant transfer will cause a thermo shock and the rad can split. The bypass sounds like you need to verify it is in the correct position, take a look at how it made or shows in the book, mine show OFF not onand there is an alignment mark at 2 o'clock. It needs to allow a constant flow this help control the thermo cycling by maintain a closer consistent combustion temperature near the combustion chambers. In other words we don't want the combustion chamber mass to keep cycling thru ups and downs!

I think Spencer has done very well keeping up and supporting your thread V.C.! The exhaust bolts I lube then if you snug with a 6" allan key you should be good. As we mentioned a check of the pump and a rad flush would be a good move, then as mentioned a stop leak is a good idea for those old cast aluminum systems. Not worry about asking us questions we enjoy spending you money from a distance;)

All right, if you follow this link below it will take you to clear views of what you seek to know;) https://www.venturerider.org/manuals/RSVservice.pdf Before you rehook the tubing check to make sure the pollution device is still hooked up, many I think have been disconnected. If that is the case then disconnect them at the intakes and cap them as the front ones, so they can't effect a vacuum leak later. P6-16 Coolant: P3-35 COMPRESSION!!????: P3-21 No point in tuning carbs without checking COMPRESSION;) #1 is rear left side

I have to run out for a bit but I found this for you to start... The plugs are rebuildable by replacing the O-rings page A5 item 20 and 8 https://www.venturerider.org/private/RSVparts.pdf

I'd use pipe dope or Teflon tape

In theory it makes no difference providing the run to and from is a safe one, tubing is not kinked or there be no potential for burning! Why is because it simply measures pressure differentials. Now I think the second one would be for cruise but I need to look at the schematic, I will do so and if I form a different opinion I repost. It is assume that the pressure are eq. cylinder to cylinder and without leaks. The reason being all crank and valve timing are consistent meaning either cylinder should produce equal vacuum! As for the plugs think we covered that and nice to see you pick up on them being due. Mountain time here but last night and many nights I keep company with a friend suffering from a series of medical mishaps, she does needs someone to be there till she falls to sleep;) several hundred miles away Yes please do keep in touch

"Which the means the water pump does not interfere!" That should read Tstat not pump, sorry!

Well babe have I got a story for you! After 22 years of mirage then divorce, we remain friend fiends, my X asked me to take her for a ride... Now I've had a few honnies on the back since but there is nothing like being with the one that knows you best, when relaxed! Apart from my recent trips over my own wisdom's, I can say with certainty that riding with the woman that knows you best, is the best, of riding;)

Calling for a full stop at this moment! The above is not a trick sequence; it is Japaneses translated to English! If you open the cock then you are in drain mode.. As I mentioned you must make the systm close as tho it is in a constant loope powered by the water pump! Which the means the water pump does not interfere! Fix the know problems then operate the unit as tho it is complete and a close system without the Tstast! No leaks and the pump circulates the fluid thru the complete engine! The reading is not acurate as the system is not flowing correctly at this moment, as you describe! You run the risk of over heating the heads so stop! When the system is in a loop there is no air and it is completing its complete run! The only thing is that the Tstast is missing so the rad while part of the loop can not cool the fluid, because it does not stall in the rad! It continues to travel thru rather than stand still and get cooled! So fill and tighten the system, then try the part number posted and away you go! For posting without quoting just look for the Reply To Thread blue button at the top or end of each thread;) No Worries Bro we'd like you stick around..K and bring your friends cause we don't care what you ride we care how you ride! That means the valve is in running mode not in drain mode!

So as to make sure you understand the petcock must be in the close position, otherwise the system will continue to drain out! So you effect the repairs. the system has integrity (able to loop without leaks) which will cool the heads and cylinders; however and for a short time, the rad will not be able to cool the fluid efficiently as the time needed to do so is, provided by the thermostat! If there was no even flow then you would warp the heads, stretch the timing chain, fry the rings, coke the journals, and the engine will knock.

Yes you can assemble the complete system to a factory design closed unit. Just keep the Tstat out of the loop and run it as tho it was there for a short period of time, as you mentioned! Don't take in heavy traffic cause the rad won't have time to cool the flow as it will continue to circulate! As for the bit about Yama Mama,,,, well lets just say no we are not on the same page but you are new here and haven't been exposed to Mama's taunts, yet;)

Wow I think my meds are corrupting my thoughts? Here's how the email notice looks: "---Quote (Originally by Jayceesfolly)--- Also, get a new o-ring for t-stat cover. They are usually old and brittle. You can take it to Lowe's or Home Depot and match it. Much cheaper than ordering thru Mama Yama. Jim ---End Quote--- About to get started on the tstat. Last couple days driving all around town getting parts was rough on my van. need to change a rod in that this summer started knock pretty bad. so anyway after reading the manual, tell me if I am getting this right it looks like I can run it with the coolant petcock in the on position and just bypass the tstat." Now if I'm being honest about my train of thoughts then Yama Mama in her leathers interrupted my honest natural logical problem solving ways and; my answer would have to be: No! The o-ring would lead to frustration and the T-stat would get suck in the closed position causing an over heating condition, which most likely would cause another ruptured hose and; a stroke plus, a serve knock after heat exhausting and then a collapse of the cardiovascular internals, pretty sure anyways? Be careful

Good one! Did you know that in Newfoundland (its a big rock in the Atlantic) there are no corners? They say that if you're looking to confuse a Newfie tell him to go find the corner of the room. hmm now you know;)

And; I knew there was a new member opening with Shalom but I couldn't remember who so, Shalom brother! "under the shy, under the heaven, there is but one family" B. Lee 1971 So welcome to the Crazy Hotel California Dutchrans

Maybe? Thinking perhaps; if you wax it with a Teflon based friction reducing compound several times to achieve a greater than 2 micron buildup and; after a year in the sun, just maybe you might be able to get close enough to come within sight of one? On a clear day, at altitude, going down hill, on a straight flat, after eating a bag of carrots the night before? Honestly tho I didn't know they came in sexy blue;)

Take pics or you'll be in the muthouse.