Patch

Pretty sure on my 93 I removed it pulling it straight out with small visegrips then replaced the O-ring a touch of liquid gasket set it to reserve and never touched it again.

Very thoughtful of you Carl, jeez I wish I could help him more tooooo!

There's a lot to this so let be mention some reminders: everything about or that bolts to the heads begin around air induction, this leads the way to estimated ratios, percentage of fills and efficiencies. If we get that right and we maintain it thru service then we can maintain power bands, after all these are performance machines. The valve seating is the dummy end of the combination of measurements all the way up to atmosphere beyond the air box induction. The valve seating should be a given but it must be confirmed and way to often it is simply ignored as an essential step. Can you lock compression? What is the cause of compression readings? Then the lash what role is it playing if any in the compression readings? What temp is the engine when checking lash? When the engine is at operating temp the measurements are not what they are when you are checking lash! So lash has to be a compensating number. It should not be more or less it should be as true as it can be. The distance and duration is effected by cam design it is also true that lash can alter it. Too tight and loss of heat, initial vacuum, backfire, exhaust issues, and of course compression losses. The mileage and overall condition should guide your initial approach to the maintenance you are scheduling. In the case of cam and your question the intent is to have it sing in harmony and so it is wise to measure in more locations then lit it time to restore, reason the why's and make the best choices you can given budget and plans. A quick comment on COWPUC's comment: " They are line bored aluminum journals carrying the cam shaft which tend to be more susceptable to going high side on tolerances in the cam saddles over time,, especially on high mileage/poorly maintained engines (change your oil when the oil gets dark whether running full synthetic or dino,," Yes and certainly a drawback: But in theory it shouldn't yet as you say we know it is a consequence of lobe pressures and rotation. The journals should not be able to cause such wear. And yes I agree with your reasoning as to why and also how to reduce the friction effects... for what its worth;) Again how would we know or how can we check this type of wear issue? The same way we would at the crank, by performing another step, measure oil pressure! I'd like to also say that Jfman (Jeff man?) solution suggests that at some point that head had a sicking bucket, so I think because it was one valve his decision makes sense! But if it were more than the one, no its teardown time;)

No the comment wasn't missed. In fact I thought hard on it then decided rubbing salt was not the best coarse for further intervention so, I decided to avoid slowly removing the scab growing over your wounded hart! But seeing how you are still dealing with this after Carl and I attempts at a reconciliation between YOU, CARL, MARITA & MARCA my thinking is that you were not totally up front in your plea in the help post! In all honesty I think I would rather prefer to read that Marita was over at Carl's place then and that way we would at least know for certain where she is and that upon her return she would be shall we say, happy to be home! Bum we've all heard the Dad story before, so change tunes. And you bet, YOU deserve it! Also I figured right away why Moope had the Long Looking Glasses out on the table; he's looking for a Bum to jump his fence;)

You are using my slap shot techniques against me, I see I'm going to up my game:no-no-no: That said tho the points Carl makes are worth checking and is proper maintenance for almost any outdoor equipment. And like Zag mentioned the plunger inside the starter solenoids can carbon up as well as pit which reduces continuity, very common problem regardless of make. It is most often found after low battery issues.

:clap2:

Morning Bob, first I recognize your confidence, and I certainly see how you reasoned thru the problem:thumbsup2: I'm going to skip past mass, heat, and expatiation's tho they are definite considerations when developing required lash. The "stretch" in in the valve stem length! The stem is always under shear load hot or cold. When the power is on the constant slamming of the valve at high temperature causes the stem to elongate, this also causes the stem diameter to reduce, and as a result the guides diameter also falls out of spec! The longer this above mention remains out of spec the more wear to the lobe in unexpected places! When the required shim schedule becomes no longer adequate it is time to open and replace or regrind. A machinist will for example first check the stem specs before he/she chooses to lap and grind the length of the valves. Why is because he knows that if the stem is to narrow the lash will not hold spec! At which point the best fix is to replace the valves. And of course there's more work to do once there but hopefully this brings a broader perspective to the reasons. Just a reminder: the manuals only lists specs, required minimums and maximums, tools and procedures for trained mechanics, it in no ways teaches us theory or the specifics as to why or the consequences of....

Sorry I missed the post. Sure what you need is the heat, then you can decide what to do once off.

I thought I'd stay out of this and usually do so, and but; maybe this may help the understanding of and from a different point of view. Yes I agree that you should and can measure from the bottom of the lobe but; I can also say that it can also provide a problem in doing so,,, if after you check the gap you don't recheck via the book procedures, you are overlooking the limit potentials. Then why is that a potential problem can be missed one way and not the other? Because cam wear should not be found at the bottom of the lobe but it is not impossible for it to happen. Such distortions on a bike with with high mileage, been neglected or, that has overheated is not far fetched! It is the stems that stretch over time, the firsts few miles its stem and seats. If your stretch has become no longer a matter of just shims, then you need to measure the lobes well for tolerances. How do you know you are at the limits? By properly checking the gaps at the scheduled points. Eventually the stems will narrow too much and need valve replacing along with guides and seats! Will it matter to you, that is up to the individual. That's my experience for what its worth

Thinking Carl must have a fever, maybe?

What the Fork? On Mama's thread I set you and Bum up perfectly and ya both ignored me; now ya playing nice with me? If things don't get back to normal I'm'a going to find new friends to mess with:confused07: And, has anyone heard from BIG TOM:cry:

There is oil in the sump, where the crank connects to the piston rod and pin. I refurbished mine by cleaning the cylinder, soaking the ring till it floated correctly, and then put a swipe of silicone grease added about 1/2 oz of gear oil reassembled and dats all folks;)

Sorry I'm late checking in. Thanks for the pics, the second one is cause for concern. All of us that regularly play in carbs have tuned their drivers to not damage the the slots. When we overturn the carb body to access the jet, the chips from the brass slot can and most often falls inside the jet! Now most folks will try to push the clearing tool thru the bottom up, and this at times jambs the chips inside. Replace the jet is a better choice So best way to remove the jet is to prepare a water and cleaning detergent bring it to a simmer place the stripped down carb body into the pot, and cover... I remove the plastics like floats. After 10 minutes and using a better fitting driver, hold the body in a thick cloth or oven mitt, then remove the jet while still hot. What you did was expand the material.

Yup! but it will have to wait till morning):

Hi Mama xo This Canadian child has been pretty good unlike my 2 brothers from Ontario! Did you read the post about Bum? He got caught with his neighbor I think, and his wife left him, again!!! True Story;) Carl offered her a place to stay tho, nice of him, eh Mama? Oh by the way, I was traveling on a job a while back and bought a few $1.00 lotto tickets; I had 9 of them tucked in my wallet, we have 1 year to claim on them, I usually forget and therefore I don't dare check just in case I won! So SK said to me just... how many tickets do you have stuffed in your wallet, and then he proceeded to check the numbers,, WOW he was so excited I won $1,014.00 and 3 free plays! I really should check more often I guess and maybe learn to play better with my friends. So want to come help me spend some Mama,, pretty please? We can keep the events secret, I promise, maybe.

Some history, lol my mom figured I had something goin on in my head as a boy around engines, any kind didn't matter! In the 60's she would tune the antenna Saturday afternoon so I could watch USA racing, AJ Foyt was my favorite! Anyway she pops in the living room with snacks and one afternoon and asks me how the race was... OH Mom when I become a dad I am going to call my boy AJ, lol. Some decades later My wife says ok well how will be spell it? Hmm like I'd know, so we settled on AJay, true story. She order some paperback books for me, smallish books it was a series they drew pics of aerodynamics with simplified explanations. And tho it took a long while to understand the theories that seeded my fascination with those dynamics. Yes I remember all the way back to the 70s swirl add on's. For myself it took some trial and errors of course like grinding in swirls funny really looking back. Now as I remember the GM Vortex was 96??? But my old 86 Cade has swirl heads. So what is it? Well its a chase really and not consistent either, the velocity is important but the pressure distort it, all at very high sequencing I might add. If you have ever managed to see cylinder induction then you know there is a lot of turbulence; you also can't help but notice the air/fuel crash on the crown, which depending on crown shape and speed the rush to the walls can be obvious.. This is super important as the next stop is the combustion chamber and its design can split the ignition (more so in the pre mid 80's) Now you factor in Ignition (we rather not but we need it) advance which is all about duration, compression heat, and effective spark,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, This is where it get tricky I'll wind it up here, lets take a quick look at gen1's intake valves open, that's 2 bell shapes air/fuel rushes past @ 5 pounds vacuum, piston travelling down: as it reaches BDC the piston stops producing low pressue; as the air flows past the 2 bell shapes side by side they cause a swirl that swirl also slows the movement of the flow, as does the wall surface, mixing stops, but there was also a swirl created in and upward movement during the crash with the crown! The chamber environment is very hot causing the charge to begin to expand! WOOPS remember the BDC & TDC have 2 things in common one is they both cause the direction to reverse and the other is the connecting rod is in a straight line with the crank at their longest point! So that a loss which gets put into the lose locum: so the compression stroke is fed from the firing order and it has to overcome the next inline to compress the expanding gasses even before the ignition timing lights the charge! BUT now in the process of charge ignition and expansion the now flaming charge is tumbling, yup! So what if we could alter the these sequences? Well we can and in so doing our efficiency goes up and when rpm are down low we see that in torque; up high we measure it in HP gains but, they are only a fraction of what they should be because we find that measure up in the high bands where we know our filling duration's run lower efficiencies, now if we can alter that by changing valve duration and retard the ignition timing to reduce expansion pressure @ less efficient crank angles,,,,,,, because we kept the filling duration up (which heat will expand) then we develop more much much higher numbers. So duration's and ignition timing the ignition side is easy, sequential firing can get that done for us;) Hope its English and hope it helps fill in some of the shadows

OOOH post #9 what a pucker moment Bro! Great picture!!!!!

For the first 2 questions, this gets to the heart of crank timing, or crank plain, (i'll skip that) when you have odd numbers you choose when the trailing stroke will produce its contribution so that means you have a boost to crank rotation, because it is rotating then it falls under torque! This is why we measure such ins and outs from the centers of.... If you revisit the video I posted about differentials this is explained as they fill in the gears. The next 2 questions are very technical to answer; the engine heads are where the power decisions meet Mama Compromise;) As you've read in other stuff I've written it is always about the air or induction first. If you have a great plan for the heads then you build the bottom/crank to accept the potentials,,, when you build from scratch! When we can alter valve timing we can tune efficiencies through the entire RPM range, so biggest bang for duration and there's multiple duration's to consider. There are also losses that we have had to accept; we know this because the math tells us we have losses. The valves are under continuous kinetic pressure which the strokes has to overcome twice per, per set of valves, per cylinder... There we use lever actions from the crank up through the chain, lobes and so on, that means weight, friction and energy losses, (nothing for nothing) So that to a great deal is reduced so we have a freer revving engine; yes we still have to drive the valve system but... For bike applications well not yet, even if we can manage the engine we would still have losses transferring the output! Yes I remember Sky Honda often comes up with surprises to cause us to wonder;) I'll give you all one more thing to think on, exhaust ports have a lot of wasted energy when you consider we mostly just dump it; often too in the wrong size piping.

I enjoyed the article. I found this interesting: " There’s one possible exception. A few SARS-CoV-2 viruses that were isolated from Singaporean COVID-19 patients are missing a stretch of genes that also disappeared from SARS-classic during the late stages of its epidemic. This change was thought to make the original virus less virulent, but it’s far too early to know whether the same applies to the new one. "

Right on Kevin. I'm going to add a couple things, while the carbs are off it is the best time to check compression; also when installing or removing carbs from the boots it is best to use a lube like WD which helps save the sealing ring inside the boots from chipping, also helps the seating of the carbs by reducing the friction before clamping!

I've been following free valve technology for a while, interestingly they believe its sole market will be performance oriented only; but just look at what it can do... If you remember this guy started posting pretty young. Posted just this march 18th

I agree with MiCarl and like you said plugs are... But this could also be timing, or advance. Which means it could also be pickup coil; say if it only happens when hot. Further down the list would be carbon or pre ignition. Would be helpful to see the plugs with the jug numbers posted.. If the problem continues. If you would like to get a good sense of how the engine is doing, take the compression while changing the plugs.

I don't on this? I certainly understand the differences between full and sport touring, yet I can't seem to feel the satisfaction gains for such a bike? Ajay some 10ish years back thought we should should switch our sport riding to the Hayabusa... Then too I couldn't get my head around how it would fit our riding wants tho admittedly I view things from an old school lens. This Ducati will keep its riders leashed to Ducati service centers, fine for some I know but really narrows the sport of touring for me. My opinion is the same for V twins or 4's. Getting out on the open road "man and his machine" is for me a bond that should not be lost. I remember my winter tour in 07 of all the times I have crossed this country never did I feel more that bond of adventure! Every night before I closed the lights I went thru the bike to look for damage I may have done during the days ride; looked to solve induction icing issues, the effect of the cold on tire pressure and so on... So from this point of experience I wonder where the sport of touring is headed? Fine for European countries but for hardcore like us here on this stretch of mountainous dirt I think the best of the touring adventures are somewhere in the rear view. Reads like the Motorsport industry really hasn't a clue as to where to go.

Agreed Uncle. I realize I applied some pressure your way. But, as you mentioned you are young and strong meaning you can take it;) From the outset it wasn't much of a challenge to predict the conspiracy theories lurking around the corner. That said the mood and direction has changed, we are a small part of this change, we also demonstrated once again our differences are what sets this club apart from most out there so, cheers! I did take note to a few words spoken today by the President "China is not a beneficiary..." My logic says that should spell the end to unfounded conspiracies that only exist to distract us from the real ones;) Thanks for helping getting the word out