Patch

Eh Kevin, this was quite an issue with the Cade riders back in the day. The range off the tank was pretty low causing some to get a bit creative with less well thought out range add on's. I will say I have considered adding a jerrycan a time or 2 on the platform for the hitch. Why after all these years I haven't is also experience related and is a direct link to some of the spills I've had or have witnessed since my touring days as far back as 79. And looking at this rig above, my thoughts remain the same, just not safe enough Now and on the other hand, I have carried extra fuel in 2 one LT. oil bottles placed one per rear saddle bag! Here's why I don't worry about contamination: when I pack my saddles, I first place a trash bag then my travel gear goes in that which contours to and around the hard stuff stored at the bottom. Don't ask why but my clean gear goes in the left and tools, need a wash in the right - extra visors, gloves, towels, shaving kit, snacks, and water in the trunk, extra helmet on the cooking rack, tent strapped to the left saddle! Just one of my mental quirks I guess

Was actually going to post the Bee sting reason for when @BlueSky dropped last week...lol Its not uncommon to get bit when stopped, some figure it has to do with bug rash on the bikes and the bees are just looking for a clean spot to mush on

embarrassing to post porn pictures by mistake eh Can I peek before they/it get deleted??? I won't tell anyone what I see! OH @Marcarl

when you say 2 gears rubbing, do you mean the teeth ae trying to mesh?

Dad we need to talk; take 2 brews from the fridge, take that patch of your good eye, and lets Mano A Mano So that said, it is not one dollar a month ifen you is north of 49! Just sayen Well I don't say things here that I have not chosen to say so really this stuff don't bother me none and, quite frankly I was mused by a fellow I met some ride ago that was word for word dictating a theory I wrote some time back. Sometimes I even surprise myself. All that said brothers, I had a great day today Aug the 16th, finally feeling more myself, took the whole day to do me stuff no phone... Met some 50 plus guys ticking off there bucket list, agreed to find one a second gen too. But one thing that stood out again is what many of us feel about hanging with the club, friend that stretch across and so willing to pitch in, really my best experience in forum life that I held membership in! Now I do think its Puc's turn to do the dishes?!

LOL Beautiful!

So if it were me, I would consider the kill and stand switch need drying or a shot of spray: I would check the fuses and make sure they work correctly, remove, inspect replace. But because it wouldn't spin then did but not fire this seems to me, to be, the kill witching as mentioned above, and is my bet. Enjoy the trip cause this is all just part of camping off a bike that is pushing 30

And I am reminded of a couple years back when Casey sent over a couple of Russian nurses to help me convalesce, OH brother it took like 2 weeks to nail the roof back down and patch the siding! Hmm Hmm count your lucky stars Dad you aint having to strain your leftover eye! Anyways you do know the only way to make a mower look cool is to wear a set of these

Wonder why @BIG TOM is missing all this fun?

Leave to Carl to confuse us!

I know eh Ben, whenever I read something nice from Puc concerning me; I always wonder what he is setting me up for By the way I wanted to mention this reminder related to this thread : Gen 1 has the MKl and the MKll for Ventures different engines and different carbs plus the VMAX's

Well didn't have a brother but I could tell you's a story about it however, I know it would make all you BIG BRUTS tear up! lol

NO NO GUYS, its like pennies, the battery is the piggy bank, shaking the pennies out is the consumption of amperage!

interesting: Much of what is mentioned will confuse you as you progress because there are some fundamentals that apply to the CV carbs verses direct/hard slides. So just a quick mention here, I have broken this down in other posts for similar problems and if you have followed other threads from this and last month then you'll find links in them. Starting with flow: the heads dictate power, power is a potential only meaning it is not a on or off switch. That is where flow comes in then once we know those flow rates we target a ratio, then we set our ignition timing and that is where the box programming plays its part (when to ignite) If you follow flows in and out basic rules then you should be fine with the original flows tho there is little wrong with some minor tweeking. Why over sized jet kill the engine and shorten duty cycles is because of the lack of stoichiometric.. A CV carb that is vacuum balanced will not stall flow in fact it is the opposite, it also won't generate rich or lean conditions unless you have the situation that you described in your other post. So, when you slides are parked they should be in the closed position meaning that the fuel circuit is off. When the slides are closed on this type of carb setup velocity is maintain which keeps the pilot jets running efficiently; as the throttle opens on this type of carb vacuum remains higher than a direct slide set when measured at the throttle plate - giving more boost to actuate the slide while maintaining velocity! Why is this important to know? Because I see you wanting to understand why the engine is behaving as tho there is a limiter, this is classic imbalance! Stoichiometric can only be realized after ignition duration and that has to do with crank angles of ignition timing! (the time it takes to complete ignition around TDC) Here is where we find the cherry: all that above is to say it all has to do with heat expansion and the time it takes (duration) to complete! When you too rich you cool combustion temperatures and you throw out the unburnt fuel hence the 25 mpg think about the percentage of waste compare to other posts; then reduce size and settings by that! makes sense? A personal story and tricks of my experience: Many of you long timers know a ran the first super bikes stamped sept. 87 have 2 of them. Ajay 1st bike was the Kat 750 1996 on what was to be the night before his 1st tour with me he went out to try his new gear; I said son that visor is too dark for night riding even in the city.... well a month later I thought it time to get him back in the saddle so I handed off one of my 1100's Later in the season as he got past the crash lessons he asked for some handling mods and we swapped out engines as well. Of course my fuel system had many mods to it and was about to get another on that setup I ran my pump thru the air housing which required many fittings )))) So the following year he came to me and said Dad the bike is loosing power around 9-10K hmm? Things got busy with work and travel so we really didn't run the bikes much for a couple of years. Then in 17 I think he said Dad what about the power loss... So I had quite a few projects backed up in the shop and just said run it like that for a bit and we'll get to it. Then not thinking we tore it down and I came across the cheat/trick I had forgotten "yikes" I purposely had set the bike to lean out at those rpms via a reducer fitting, YIKES Ajay how did I screw that up? hmm Well we had a laugh and I said maybe soon you will know what it is to be a Dad and walk thru your growing adventurous son The point is understanding flows raw helps to understand Stoichiometric's​ and the results

some thoughts: You should take compression and post results; much easier to do with the cabs off. Yes looks like they set the bike up too rich, and the needles numbers should be match as well. Why the clips are set to 3 well no idea what he was thinking but the pull on the slides will be too quick and so the engine cant "catch its breath" for drowning in too rich a dump. Now there are consequences to this so check that compression. If it turns out good the reset the carb jetting's, find the tci and look to see what brand it is. Then Dingy can suggest if its one of his how to best set it up, or what to look for. As for jets sizing, each model has a carb rebuild section, and, there you will find the stock sizings. Collector: is it possible that a baffle is restricting flow, sure but at the moment the needles are opening to quick too soon. Remember CV carbs are air flow sensitive, if any mods have been made to the stock setup then we need to know in order to understand the compound potentials

Hmm over qualified and, the bike has only 2 wheels,, if you fork this up: you'll never live it down

First I see the post/ Where are you with the project?

calgary or that ed'thingy place? So somthing to consider if the PO was reading a cartoon mag deciding to change filters then he may have also change jets? the main, block or, plugs maybe loose? Know what i mean... Casey i was right there on the same path. Couple years back we had an Auz telling us how wonderful the pods were, according to the cartoon net mag he was reading....yup yup yup

the last paragraph of post 13 it is in other words the switching loop for the rectifier ..

Hmm I've heard about some of those, guess I was absent on such family gettogether occasions [Milk Cats and Titty] Did you take them on a tour to the ZOO Carl? "you just never know what the chef will come up with next!!!" Leave it to a Butcher to save the best BONES to feed to his Buddies

in case some of this octane discussion seems confusing... The optimum expansion of the charge would be as close as possible to TDC (top dead center) But because fuel "ignition" and "duration" (time taken to achieve full combust/expansion) can not be achieved at optimum crank angles we advance the timing to get as close as we can to near full expansion pressures at TDC: so, that is refereed to as ignition duration which follows - ignition system spark timing - or in other words provide enough time for the ratios full ignition/burn to take place as close to TDC . (the ignition timing is measured at(crank angle) The completeness of the combustion cycle is measured (actually amused) in % of efficiency meaning 80 plus % aiming for a 100% is the goal but, those goal posts move (sob's). Instead what most do (for street performance) is tune for the best averages. For track tho we aim for peek performance on a dyno where we tune that timing advance in that Puc mentioned. But the more we advance the quicker we need to hit that tuned RPM range as the timing advance will cost us in low end torque output because,the crank angle settings are for larger air/fuel flows and, once inertia is in play so,less of a torque graph is acceptable tho not desirable. For long distance bikes we need compromise between getting the load moving quick enough, keeping our available tongue responsive in the 4500 to 7ish ranges and when cruising in 5th to lower RPM enough for range of tank. The best way I know to view this is going back to the basics referring to the engines as air/fuel pumps; the higher the RPM the faster the pumping draws in air, the more fuel it consumes: that is because of the air/fuel ratios and the losses in efficiencies measured in %'s, caused by Timing (crank angles) air/fuel Ignition and duration (of course there are other losses to consider) There is this one little thing I nag about, know the engines compression before tuning it. Without proper compression and the heat generated by it, your tuning is less than a fair guess at best. If the compression is low it may be correctable, if your compression is too high it too may be correctable, but it is never ignorable.

WOW who knew? Hmm betcha Puc knew and forgot to tell us Now for sure Carl knew but couldn't figure a long enough way around the bush to effectively confuse us and so decided not to speechify on the topic:ignore: And now I know (for now) till sundown or dawn at least?

94 octane: the higher rating of octane has to do with compression, the more you have the higher the octane. Compression produces heat so the higher octane keeps the ignition in time meaning that the ignition duration (flame) meets the crank timing - which varies depending on RPM (advance and crank angles), Of course running the bikes/engine is always up to the owner/pilot, but, you will see a preference loss, in that less of the ratio will be consumed in time so, out the exhaust it goes.

In my experience all you would need is the stamped number on the baring, then give that number to a gear/bearing supply, they will match it up!

Right on Dingy!