Patch

Duey I just can't see your post, Bro.

So look guys: Thing is that there are so many of us that were where you are today;getting back to it. It was a pleasure to see Tyson in the thread. Why because he is one of the 2 mountains I strive to keep up with. I remember Allo Bobby and Rose: So we had this print setter he ran a costume 68 ss, like machinists I always felt 3 best at best. Some of us are good but handicapped those 2 trades know nothing of handicapping, we are all just "them" And we mere mortals persist eventually figuring chit out and being able to keep up. (providing we aint challenging them" So the thing is this joint has so much more to share then we tend too. We've raised children, built successes, ride when we can to avoid therapy Riding these big touring bikes takes time to master, pitching a tent, fixing or helping others down the road... To me that is the future of the club, today is just to short a time to measure. So there is a secret around, just us old Canadians know about, reachout out to @Marcarl or @sadlebum to find out about it;) seeyou aroundmaybe.

Tyson what works for me may or may not work for you. I had to grow past 2 big mistakes that have last a life time. Never think for a moment that what you have learned is not equal in value. I guess the thing is is that growing old on two wheels is a very personal thing. Most of us oldzimers guys strive to share only to open or provoke thought. We are still learning and have much to learn from the new and younger members

OH CHIT I am humbled by your Post Wow EH skydoc what dragged you down to my level? lol right on!

One of my favorite characteristic of that bike after cutting the shield down, was how she'd just kink over in strong winds and sail thru. Not sure what design feature allows it to be so sure footed that way. By the way I tried to edit my first post a couple of times after posting, it would let me edit but not save, hmm. I was trying to say "wouldn't keep up"" and a couple of "that;s"

I watch this video the other day and I got to thinking of an old post some years back. I think that many of us old timers have techniques that are more reflex then we or I can explain and put into words. My son does not enjoy a touring bike period. He is very much a technical rider and simply does not the like weight and slow response of the setups touring rider enjoy. The 2 MKll we ran were different then stock setups up front. The 91 was the most difficult for me to get to my liking and so I used springs and shims along with air pressure to hit my marks. Before doing so I found the 91 to unpredictable, for me. I like a quick ride and I enjoy the end of the line the most, standing her up again. So some years ago I noted in a post I favor the rear brake leaning in to, then during I count on ratio and throttle for pulling it thru and maintain my predicted line. But why the rear and not the front brake? Rowling mass and momentum (s) this is where touring bikes are different then the sport bikes in a lean. If I slip my rear wheel, I simply keep looking thru, if I slip my front I'm in trouble. I have of course needed to use the front brake at times to slow the energy up front but, if you are running linked brakes then that rarely an issue. Of course if you are pointing your right knee the peddle is a hard reach but that thru the curve not before. Thru the curve we have ratio and throttle to adjust our leans, something we have in common with sport bikes because that's the physics. Exploring the rear brake a bit further: picking a line then using the rear we tend to stretch the bike out, making it tighter. Why, all the joints, bearings and bushings. Next up is the rake. These front fork on this kind of rake with the long reach add a hard to understand added flex. Setting your bike for a line thru is more time and effort. That spells a slower speed thru it. I think that is acceptable for a touring bike. Remember we are down shifting and braking with a long reach more weight and more forward moving mass so inertia and that is all the moving parts taking time to sync up. Progressive as in the type of coil are slower acting than non progressive, non progressive are more trying on a touring bike. Tire pressure matters. We tend to max them on touring bikes for tire life. But have any tried to lower that till you find a sweet spot. Lower tire changes the patch contact area, also reduce vibration throughout the fork, so it acts as a damper. Tire selection. I enjoy sticky vs. twice the tire life or what ever that turns out to be. Same for my cars, not worth the savings in my way of thinking. Genll all I know is what i see, I'd rather ride ahead or keep them far enough ahead that I don't see them pushing and scraping thru too close to the yellow/white lines like their heads are replaceable. My Cade is the heaviest I've ridden and shes solid when on her line, but I would not keep up with a MKl or ll. Trying to would make a fool of me, so I make up for the gap by beating it to the next curve;) snooker move Anyways I'd enjoy reading the clubs thoughts and tips for tour riding.

I found the link, well worth discussing this over with Mike. @eusa1

if that be the case it will need jets too. I consult the Diamond guy perhaps someone can post a link

"It's said that red tartan was worn in battle so blood would not show"

Given the age I don't doubt they may need replacing. However, if the slides don't need replacing and the needles are true? How can the cup be the cause? I don't remember reading vacuum leads in the thread. Take a picture and post it or x 4 Note from which carb they come from

Yabut they plaid!

Hmm so just the diaphragms?

Well yaknow Carl has been working on my english side for a while now; its at the point he has me rolling or counting beads, or, kneeling on potato peels

thats the idea Fred the spring clamp bites and tracks with the tubing but only as far as the flare, at which point the temper of the clip stops progression Little things can be such a nuance EH

I can relate Kind of like buying a new Chev with duel tanks and the switch doesn't work first trip to nowhere Or, same truck, 5 blow outs taking 2 days to do a 6 hour trip And of course there's Honda, blowout, jack the car, pull the donut out of of a full trunk, on a reserve with a tire wrench that is too short to break the nuts loose, to find the rim seized to the hub. Not my car was helping a Lady out.

A couple of points to offer up: The tubing must match the size of the nipple shaft the tubing should be curved in a way that allows for vibration and expansion/retraction the reason for spring clamps is because the are round, gear clamps are not, fuel clamps are I change the O-rings on the 91 petcock and I was not one to use it. I set mine to RES and leave it use gas rated O-rings The only pressure on the petcock in the weight of the fuel above it The 4-6 lbs the pump produces id between the pump and the float valve/needle

RainX on my shields including helmets. Tho I let the helmets vent for a few minutes.

Lets put some order to finishing up. 1st: can't sync until you can run the engine, pull the plugs and see that they are not wet 2nd: if you used deepcreep it will not flash upon combustion; is why I use it 3rd: I was under the impression you were going to check the fueling circuits of the carb? So lets work some myths out: syncing is just aperture setting as in equalizing air volumes passing thru the carb venturi. We can only sync when we have confidence in the carbs as a whole. When carbs go back together they should be first bench synced then set the pilots to a starting position less than 2 turns. When the engine has warm to operating temp then you first dial in the pilot jets till you see an increase in rpm, each time you achieve this you move to the next pilot. Once they have all gone thru that then return to the first pilot and turn slowly till you see an increase again, then you tighten that pilot 1/8 to 1/4 in, then repeat till all 4 are done. Then you can sync not before. Remember on a motorcycle you are not syncing for pilots or idle, you sync for throttle. On a CV carb that means venturi is at play smoothly or fed smoothly as the scale of velocity and volume increase. (think about it) The only other active system after you've tuned them is ignition timing unlike fuel inject that monitors results and can adjust itself. What that means is that CV carbs are as close as carbs can get to fuel injection, is why most people do understand them and come out with nutty ideas and myths As for longer soaks maybe, maybe not, are your cylinders dry enough to check compression? What happen when compression results are off or to different to one another? Can we expect the carbs to correct or ignore the issues? I know what Mikuni thinks about it.

Not sure why you are trying to synce the carbs, the engine should be soaking.

Good that tells us the valves are mating to the seats well. So, now its a matter of soak and going thru the carbs. Let the club know when you're ready to open up the carbs. I'll check in when I have time but have a couple busy weeks ahead then I'll be on a trip for a while. Have fun dude

LOL YEP ! The coasting circuit Bum with the enricher, I could think of the name earlier, guess my memory aint was either Well at least I haven't forgotten my spelling....

Now that the carbs are off this is one of my go to tests: Place a flat palm over one intake choking it off from air Rotate the engine using the starter and a well charged battery Rapidly you should feel strong kind of spooky suction on your palm The first try is a bit of a hit and miss as you get past the shock of doing it You should only need 5 intake strokes Then see if you feel a rapid loss of vacuum not coming from your palm seal If it can’t hold vacuum for say 5ish seconds then you have a leak If you feel any push upwards on your palm then you have and intake valve problem or a real backfire Then pull the plugs and fill the cylinders with your choice I use deepcreep Keep the plugs out will the engine soaks Shock the crank every now and then by rocking the wheel back and forth while in first gear The idea is to work the chemical thru the rings and get them to float again That allows them to spring and lock compression again Keep in mind that stuck rings can be one side of the ring or resistance to the complete ring’s This will also loosen the chit in the oil ring so the oil flush will clean them out Starting the bike afterwards: well that’s a matter of keeping the plugs dry So blow out the cylinders well helps a lot Cover with a rubber band and rag on the intake pipes to reduce the blowout thru the open intake valves, less mess to clean up. Use one around the lugs with the air nozzle so it reduces chance of splash in your eyes and face, wear protection You can remove the fresh oil from the crankcase before you soak the tops, I use cheap dyno oil for the first flush then jump to Rotella I get at Princess by the pale, always change the oil filter You can let it soak while the guys walk you thru the carbs I’d wish you luck but you have the club so luck isn’t an issue

when Bum chimes in or others a reminder if can has time to walk you thru the 2 enriching valves.

Well AB. is on the rocks for now, fortunate your in Ontario to begin your career as a journeyman! I love riding Ont. if the fall, I have never know more beauty per mile than Northern Ont.. One day think of running North then loop over coming down and grab the Toba, wow that ghost running across the train planked bridge and on down thru those old Southern towns. Just be mindful of gravel pull across the HW's from cars running the shoulders. Let us know when you pull the carbs

I should of chimed in earlier, The is a flush product that I and others use around these parts, its a dishwasher cleaner/flush. Bum is correct about the distilled water. Going through the process just to contaminate the coolant with tap water is just a step backwards. Are you still in AB.?