Bert2006

Yah...its been a long f&*?*)*&_ winter here too. Bike is in unheated garage and its even to cold in there to work on it. Cant wait to start LED project...got all the parts on shelf begging to be installed.

Only rear had been lowered with a Baron's kit.

Interesting. Mine had been lowered and rode terrible. Returned it to stock and started to enjoy riding again. Must be a matter of preference.

I have found that by gently modulating the rear brake at parking lot speed it is much more stabble....otherwise it can get quite unstable. It is a heavy bike so when it starts leaning over at low speed you must pay attention otherwise it will bite you. When i picked mine from the PO last summer he had the tires underinflated 20 and 25. It was hard to get it to actually turn when I test rode. Once at proper pressure 36-40 all was well. Once you get used to it all is good.

I am going with option 2. My remaining question is if I have my relay conections figured out right for that option in my diagram. I was planning to use the ignition switched wire that currently powers the passing lamps from the headlights to trigger the relay. Would you be able to tell me if my relay plan is correct and if that would work. Thanks:thumbsup:

Kik - see new question and diagram...in my last post -just looking to see if my wiring plan is correct as well as my connection points for the relay. Going with option 2 . Thanks

Oh nooo..... the next Venture will have them now that there is use for them

Ok, I have drawn a diagram that has two options for locating the Relay. It would be either/or - Option 1 allows to keep the GPS on when ignition is off. (2 relays) Option 2 shuts everything off with ignition. I am on the right path? (1 relay) May go with option 2 and simply keep the GPS wired directly to the battery, this way I cannot accidentally drain battery and have a spare switch for later use. Are my relay drawings and proposed conections correct? Thanks

Hi folks, Sorry for asking you to go there again but I am not an expert with electricals and I am having a hard time understanding how to wire relays. Here goes. The PO had installed the Yamaha Passing lamps as per the yam instructions and they are on all the time when the bike is powered up and the switch is on. The switch I have is the small push buton one that is installed on the inside of the fairing next to the lighter plug. I am in the process of moving everything to LED's and also wanting to control them through this Kuryakin 3 switch unit. It does not come with a relay. It is fused at the battery for 30 amps and each individual switch then have a 10amp fuse between them and what you will power with them. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71GpjzHk80L._SX425_.jpg And here is a link to the install instructions: http://www.kuryakyn.com/documents/installation/7803-21MC-0906.pdf Jan 24 - Ok, I have edited this message to avoid confusion. Please take a look at the wirring diagram that I posted in a response below titled (Did a diagram) and could you let me know if I have figured out the connection points for the relay. I will be going with option 2 with one relay between the battery and the switches. Thanks again, I apologize for asking this again. I did go back through past posts but have not been able to find the answer (or one I could understand). Bert2006

Looks like a great price - should nab it now so it does not slip from your fingers:cool10:

Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/9241-2006-06-Yamaha-Royal-Star-Venture-XVZ13-Passenger-Seat-Back-Rest-/291060997587?hash=item43c4965dd3&vxp=mtr

Sounds like a fun day.....good for you:thumbsup:

I weigh 235lbs and have my bike set up as follows with great handling. Ft=36lbs Rt=40lbs Fforks=2lbs Rshock=40lbs It is a bit stiff when riding solo but perfect when 2up. Like they said above, use the handpump for the forks and rear shock so that you dont blolw them out.

Yup, common Was working on mine yesterday in the garage and had to put on woolies so I would not freeze. Mid-April is when we can start riding again here:bang head:

Just installed the CD 100 light brake unit and WOW what a difference. Expensive but it works. Need to install the HD license plate bracket lights now. Just finished cleaning them and installing the CD leds. Will follow Freebirds instructions to do so (Thanks Freebird). Will also add a bracket to secure them to the trunk as i am not sure that just two bolts will do the job. Here is a link to instructions for the extra bracket. Link may be blocket by their site, so look under tech library, 2nd gen - miscellaneous http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002011&id=342

Here is the led headlight bulb I ordered. Taking a risk that it actually works as advertised. Will let you know. http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/products/afterburner-led-headlight-direct-replacment-lamps Thank you so much for all of the comments on this thread. It got a bit technical for me but here is what I got out of it. Hopefully it makes sence. The Kuryakin 3 swich unit will be wired to the battery with a 30 amp fuse. One switch will then power the passing lamps with a 10 amp fuse. One switch to power set of Bikevis bullets attached to the front brake caliper bracket with a 2 amp fuse Third switch to power the gps with a 2 amp fuse. All lights are leds so switch should be able to handle without a need for relay.

Hey sorry for opening up the can of worms. I currently have the accessory passing lamps sold by Yamaha. These take their power from the headlamp circuit but have an on/off switch. I have not checked but they seem to stay on whether I am on hi or low beam (will need to check that one). I also have a set of small led lights on the front forks next to the brake calipers that are tied into the passing lamps. When I turn on the passing lamps, these small led's also light up. What I am doing is converting everything to LED. I will be replacing the current halogen bulb in the headlamp with an led unit and replacing the passing lamps with led units also. I want to separate the passing lamps from the headlight circuit and separate the small led's from the passing lamps. In the end I will have 1 switch for the passing lamps, 1 switch for the small led's next to the front brakes and 1 switch for my GPS.

Well, I ordered them today . This will be the last purchase for a while as I have been :mo money:like crazy on the bike in the past few months. Will let you know how they fit once I have them on. This is what they are and where I got them. Not cheap but best price I found so far. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRUCK-LITE-HIGH-INTENSITY-PHASE-7-LED-MOTORCYCLE-PASSING-LAMPS-4-1-2-2247-PAIR/121183155603?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851=&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D19839%26meid%3D4058757562709746251%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D8934%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D181241926229%26=

Thanks for that but when installing a relay after the switch for the passing lamps, how is it wired? ie. what connects to what?

Ok, so currently the lamps draw their power from the headlight and have a switch to turn on/off. With the Kuryakin as it is wired to the battery, I assume that it is designed to provide power and switch on/off. So I need to disconect the lamps from the headlight circuit and run everything through this new switch....correct? I have another set of led lamps on the front forks next to the brakes and my GPS that will be conected to the other two switches on the unit. And thanks again with all the help!!!