Bert2006

I am in the process of installing my RK pipes and have one side completed. The only issue I am having is that the wide clamps need to be forced open to fit over the end of the y pipe. I sanded the end and then applied a lot of anti-seize but it was still a very thight fit. The RK pipe was not hard to start but I had to tap with a rubber mallet to seat it properly. Hope I am doing things right? Will tackle the other side later on today. I am also doing the saddlebag rail mod and that is an easy one, just measure twice and drill once. Will also be changing oil in the pumpkin while I have full acess to it. Could not resist and had to start it up with that one RK pipe installed and WOW that new sound will be sweet. Cant wait to hear it with both installed. Thanks to all who posted such valuable information on how to do all of this:clap2:

No, just the stock ones. The PO had a Baron's lowering kit on it with 404 in back and Metzler up front. Bike handled like crap. Removed the lowering kit and returned it to stock height resulted in a 50% improvement. Then with the CMII's it was another 50% improvement, especially with the skinnier tire up front. Low speed handling is way better and have not noticed any loss of stability at higher speeds. Also, no longer getting any snaking effect on cracks or grooves. Only negative is that they do not make them with white walls as I would have preferred that.

You will not regret it. I put CMII's on mine last summer and it was a great improvement.

I am also trying to figure out how to attach one on a 2nd gen. I bought a fly racing medium tank bag and the straps that come with it are about 8inches long, way too short....any ideas?

Now that one is funny....

Here is what I did: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?85214-Kuryakin-3-way-switch-install

It works well. I have to take mine completely off as I have a visor on the headlamp. Usually tie them up with a string so they hang but not with full weight on the wires. Also cover the fender so as not to scratch. Also when you put them back carefull about pinching the wires and check your steering stops to make sure wires clear those, otherwise they will get pinched and short out.

I use the 5mm ball end as stated below and it only takes me 5 min to remove or put them back on.

http://www.motorcycle.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/033115-harley-davidson-milwaukee-eight-f.jpg By John Burns April 1, 2015 2 Harley-Davidson’s recent trademark filing for “Milwaukee-Eight” set off all the alarm bells here at MO HQ, and our crew hypothesized about what this new name might mean for Harley. This morning Chief MO Investigative Reporter Dennis Chung has uncovered Top Secret engineering drawings that reveal interesting new technology. The US Patent and Trademark Office asked Harley for more information, specifically asking if “Milwaukee” or “Eight” hold any meaning or significance in regards to engines. Harley’s response was that Milwaukee only happens to be where the company is based, and that “the number eight, and other numbers, are sometimes used in the automotive and motorcycle industries to indicate the number of valves or cylinders in an engine.” Yeah right. Further investigation reveals that Milwaukee Eight in fact refers to a group of eight early 20th-century American artists now on exhibition at the Milwaukee Art Museum, whose collective style was all heavily influenced by the beer that made Milwaukee famous,Schlitz. “They were some of the biggest hopheads on the American art landscape at the time,” says Museum Curator Aimee Knotgood, “and I mean literally on the landscape. They were usually all napping in public by lunchtime.” http://www.motorcycle.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/033115-harley-davidson-milwaukee-eight-piston-patent-456x633.jpgPlacing the coolant inside the pistons is a genius move possibly inspired by the sodium-filled exhaust valves first seen in the Rolls-Royce Merlin V-12s used in the P-51 Mustang fighter plane of WW2. As part of Project Rushmore two years ago, Harley introduced the Twin-Cooled High Output Twin Cam 103, which used a pair of small radiators and introduced liquid cooling to that motor. It was easy enough to conceal that plumbing on a touring bike with lowers, but how would H-D bring liquid cooling to its unfaired machines? Now we have the answer, and it’s rumored to be called Project Swillmore. We’re pretty certain it will work like this: In addition to a special cloisonne key fob, one-year pass to the H-D Museum and a T-shirt from the new H-D Rally Point in Sturgis, each buyer of a Project Swillmore bike will receive a twelver of Schlitz. While the buyer consumes eight of the Schlitzes and wanders through the Parts and Accessories and Motorclothes departments, the other four will be dealer-installed into his engine: Rather than routing coolant to the hottest parts of the engine, the genius of the new design is that the coolant will already be inside the pistons, eliminating the need for radiators or hoses, which it appears will remain on all the Project Swillmore bikes anyway because market research seems to have revealed that many H-D target consumers thought that stuff looks pretty cool after all. Beer cans really are a classic American design motif. While the two external Schlitzes are only for show, having a spare set of pistons along is never a bad idea. http://www.motorcycle.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/033115-harley-davidson-milwaukee-eight-wild-bill-gelbke-633x372.jpgWild Bill Gelbke wasn’t the first guy to mount beer cans on his machine, but he was probably the coolest. Will the Project Swillmore machines draw other cues from his “Roaddog”? From a marketing standpoint, the tie-in with Schlitz couldn’t be more perfect. Rumors leaking from the brewery indicate that a completely new formulation designed to reduce foaming and taste great while being less filling has been in the works for some time, but that a special forged “controlled expansion” can was needed to keep the Schlitz pistons (we believe H-D has filed a trademark for the term “schlitstons”) from expanding too rapidly. While other factories experiment with variable valve timing, we hear that H-D may indeed be on the edge of inventing Fully Adjustable Compression-Ratio Technology (FACRT): As the Schlitz heats up and the schlitstons expand, compression rises, increasing power and torque up to the point at which it’s all released in one big, gaseous cloud of beer steam — the sound of which Harley is also reportedly attempting to trademark along with its bikes’ distinctive exhaust note. At that point, the rider can either install the spare “schlitstons” from the “cooling system” or stop at a convenience store for a fresh twelve-pack. http://www.motorcycle.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/033115-harley-davidson-milwaukee-eight-patent-633x451.jpgTwo additional Schlitstons can be stored in the fairing lowers. It’s all conjecture at this point, but rest assured you’ll read it here first as new information becomes available. We’re already delving more deeply into the current Schlitz formulation here at MO HQ to get to the bottom of things, and we may find out more after our morning nap. Stay tuned for further details.

Here are a few links to get you started: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?43898-Passing-Lamp-Installation http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?84450-Conversion-to-LED-Passing-Lamps http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?85002-Shaffed-wire http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?85189-CREE-LED-H4-Headlight-Installation Hope this helps,

Just picked them up and we agreed to split the difference. They did an excellent job and at this point even if they are overpriced I opted to take them. They have even painted them with rustproofing paint. Lesson for me next time is to be clearer on the costs up front. Not entirely happy, but will survive. Now...cant wait to hear those RK pipes on the bike.

This is how I did it with mine and it works great. I was changing the fuel pump at the time also.

Thanks all, nice to see that my expectations where not off. I gave him the template from one of the threads on the ''The Venturers'' relating to installing RK pipes. Told him that I would be painting them myself so just needed the brackets made. Only mod, was that all holes would be oblong to allow for adjustments. Not sure if this last part was the problem. I will go and see him after work today and see if he will not go back to the quoted price, if not, I will probably leave them there. Hate to do that as I know someone invested time into it from his end, but I should not be paying for someone's incompetence as it should not have taken 2 hours to produce these. Thanks again for your input.....

Went to a local machine shop yesterday to get the L brackets done to hang my RK mufflers on the RSV. Asked for an estimate and the guy told me that it should not take more than 1 hour and that they charge $70/hour. Called him today to see if they were ready and he now say's that they are ready but that it took 2 hours to make them so $140 + the cost of materials. So I am looking at 150 to 170 for a set of L-brackets........A BIT STEEP in my mind, but am I off base here? I was ok with $70 - $80 total, even if that seemed a bit steep....any thoughts?

Now that is beautiful work.....yes on mass production!!!

Please make sure that you have her parents permission to take her riding. Otherwise you are opening yourself up for a shxxxload of trouble.

I replaced the coolant plugs that are behind the faux fins on each cylinder. In doing so I lost a small amount of coolant in each. I openned the rad cap and that was full and I also topped off the overflow bottle. Should I need to worry about air in the system or am I good to go? Thanks in advance....

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/second-generation-venture-tech-talk/85214-kuryakin-3-switch-install.html Am accomplishing something similar. A while back I installed a 3 switch unit on top of my front brake master cylinder. It is wired directly to the battery throught a relay and protected by a 30 amp fuse. Throught that unit I currently run 2 sets of aux lights. Each fused appropriately from the switch. This leaves me with a free switch that I will use for the GPS. Above is a thread I had put up when I installed the 3 switch unit

SWEEEEETT.

Great, thanks for the quick reply Eck.

Will be hard wiring my new GPS tomorrow and am wondering if the frame for the cassette deck in the fairing would be a good grounding point. Its on a 2nd gen.

:clap2:

Very nice!

Unfortunately they don't, but I gave up on WW to gain on drive-ability.

When I moved to Commander II's I went with a 130 up front as I wanted a matched set of Commanders front and back. It was the best move I ever did. Any low speed issued simply disappeared and the overall stability of the bike improved 100%. I saw no impact at higher speeds but I do not tow and run mostly 1up. You have a number of members here who have gone to the 130 with no issues at all and most are indicating that they would never go back to the 150. So on that point you should be confident that it works. Most of the 130's actually have a similar or higher weight handling rating.