Bert2006

:shock3::shock3: YOU MEAN THERE ARE FOUR CYLINDERS ON THE RSV? :shock3::shock3::shock3::shock3:

Oh, and a small trick to remove the filter, I removed the fuel line from the top of it and then slid the filter out of the rubber sleeve from the bottom, this way I did not have to deal with trying to re-alining the sleeve when I installed the new one. Also, DO NOT FORGET TO TURN YOUR PETCOCK TO OFF....

Check out this thread that will give you the steps to follow to get to the filter if you decide to do that too: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?76515-2nd-Gen-changing-the-fuel-filter Here is info how to replace the pump: [TABLE=width: 90%, align: center] [TR] [TD=class: af3_title, bgcolor: #F1F2F6, align: left]How To Change Fuel Filter[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE=width: 90%, align: center] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #f1f2f6, align: left] Author: Peter Behm Views: 9859 Votes: 10 Print[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #f1f2f6, align: left] Rate This: Excellent Very Good Good Fair Poor [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE=width: 90%, align: center] [TR] [TD]Start out by turning the fuel petcock to off. Remove the side covers as shown here. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=002004&id=270 Loosen the plastic clamp so you are able to unplug the fuel pump at the connection shown here. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/fuelfilter1.jpg Remove the two bolts above the fuel pump that hold it to the bracket. Pay close attention to the two plastic clamps that hold the fuel lines. It's easy to lose track of which hoses they went to (at least it was for me). Push the fuel pump off to the left and out of the way. The pictures below should help with the clamp locations. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/fuelfilter2.jpg http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/fuelfilter3.jpg Next remove the rollover valve which is also pictured above. There is a nut on the backside of the screw which I was able to hold by hand but it if you need a wrench it's an 8mm. Push the valve off to the left along with the other hoses that are running through there. The fuel filter is now accessible. The filter is held in place with two metal tabs that fit into the rubber boot around the filter. Just pull out on the filter and it's off. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/fuelfilter4.jpg Remove the two clamps and then the inlet and outlet lines from the filter. A little container underneath is helpful to catch the gas that runs out from the lines and filter. There isn't much but it saves a little cleanup later. The next step is to put the rubber boot on the new filter and reinstall. Here is the new filter. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/fuelfilter5.jpg The filter does have an arrow on it showing the correct direction for the fuel flow. It's kind of hard to see in the picture but it should go in the bike with the arrow down like this. The rubber boot also has two different sides. The side which is flat goes towards the back against the metal bracket. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/fuelfilter6.jpg To reassemble just reverse the procedure. The only problem I had was trying to get the metal tabs back into the boot. It's kind of a cramped fit with the right tab. A little lube on the tabs and the boot and filter went right on. Last update: 04:46 AM Tuesday, March 22, 2005 [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

Are you asking about how long to do the work, or the interval at which they fail? Should not take more than 30 min to change the pump if you are doing the fuel filter also. Pump only, should be a 10 min job.

Ya, they have been on for a month now and they are a bit louder than I expected, but it is a sweet sound. Deeper rumble at iddle and low rpm's but when I open it up it definitely barks now and you can hear them. Kept the stock pipes as it may be too loud for the missus on long trips. Thanks for all the replies folks:cool10:

Why someone would refer to the 2nd Gen as a Harley poser is beyond me . Its a great looking and handling bike (looks better than any HD I have ever seen), even though I did add the HD rear lights and RK pipes to mine....so does that make me a poser also . To mother YAMAHA, go with the V4 engine with EFI and please update the Cassette unit to something more up to date......

Thats all I have to say....

Thanks for the link to the manual. It is not opening properly on my tablet so will take a look at it later on the computer. He told me that I should not delay too much in getting it done so I will follow that advice. Once in a while I get a tapping sound on start up from the front right hand cylinder but that goes away quickly. One more thing to take care off on this bike, it has been an adventure but that is what you get when you buy second hand, cant trust that the PO took proper care of it. Thank God that these bikes are so much fun to ride, it makes up for all off the maintenance and care we need to put in them. Thanks again for posting as I alway's value the oppinions and suggestions from members on this site.

This is the type of tool he was using?

I was puzzled by that too. He hit a switch on the synch tool that caused it to display something different, ie instead of the synching it was showing a range of something for each cyclinder or carb and 3 were showing multiple bars and one was not moving at all. He said this showed that one of the valves was tight....anyway it 45k miles so I will get them done. Now this tech is the best they have at this shop and so far has been straight with me, but I am with you on not trusting the story Iam being told....

Well, was finally able to get to the dealer this morning. They took tire off and cleaned up the gunk on the inside of the rim (there was a lot, it is a wonder it held for as long as it did), they applied bead seal and then reinstalled and ballanced it. Hopefully this is now fixed. Time will tell! Also got my carbs synched and tech told me that I am well overdue for valves to be checked. He was saying this based on readings he was getting on the synch tool:confused24:. I am at 45000 miles and have no record of the previous owner having had it done. Will be bitting the bullet later this summer and get it done, was quoted min of 3 hours labour to do the job.

I am accessing using an Asus 300t and it is working fine. I think you can also access using Talkapad, but I have not set it up so cant speak to that. Good luck resolving issue. Sure that the boss will have a few suggestions for you!

This coming from a guy from Turkey Point....................sorry could not resist.....

Yup , go for the 130 in a proper front tire for the reasons explained by friesman.

Any RK slip-on should work as long as they do not have the Cat Converters (some years had them in the slip on, can't remember which year specifically, but the newer ones dont.) Clamps can be found here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Royal-Star-Venture-Harley-Davidson-Muffler-VTwin-Clamps-II-/251006468295

Well it was not the valve after all. After a week the same problem again. So jacked thebike up and used a water container under the wheel and there are steady streams of bubbles coming from the edge of the rim and tire in multiple locations on one side and a few on the other. I canot get to the dealer for a few weeks until I could take a day off. So will have to inflate it before every ride until I can it fixed. I usually inflate to 36 and when i get back from ride its at 37 or 38. But the next day down to 33. After a few days down to 25. Am I risking a failure with the tire suddently separating from the rim?

Yup 130 is the way...i did it last summer and have no regrets.

I just went to my local locksmith who had blanks and he made a few copies for me.

A bit off topic, but where do you attach your tank bag to for those that use them? Meaning, where do you loop the straps?

No dynabeads in it but heard that some had that issue also. Will replace the shrader valve tonight and see if that solves it.

I have a slow leak that has developed on the front wheel. Its a new Commander II installed last summer. No issues at all last summer. This spring when I took bike out for first time it only had 17psi in it. Pumped it up to 36 and went for a ride no issues. After a week, it was down to 25psi. Pumped it up again and then looked at it the next day and it was back down to 25. So pumped it up to 40 and the next day it was down to 38. There are no nails in it, soaped it up and cannot see air escaping on the tire, around the bead/rim, valve stem or valve itself. I did loosen the shrader valve and re-seat it but I am still loosing about 1 psi per day. Next step is to install a new shrader valve, but any thoughts?

Or, you could come up our way as we are in the same situation here:mo money:

This may sound harsh to some, but to me when someone tries to run someone off the road (bike or cage) or purposely decides to take them out, it should be treated as aggravated assault with a deadly weapon or murder, depending on the outcome. There is too much of this crap going on and people are getting away with it.

Do you keep them on all the time or do you remove them when going long distances at highway speeds? I had my first ride of the year with them (2 of them) yesterday and man they were beating hard in the wind. Wondering if the vibration they would be causing could be damaging to the top bag. I have them mounted on the luggage rack on top of the top bag. (2006 RSV)

Here are the pics. Lines of saddlebag rails much improved and new RK pipes. They sound fantastic but may be a bit loud. Will see when I get to take a run.