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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    I don't know of anything off either bike that wouldn't interchange.
  2. mbrood
    In Idaho it's against the law to ride a horse or a women in the middle of the road. (sometimes you have to read it again.)
  3. mbrood
    Aj Tom... blissfully unaware... how wonderful those time were and how darned long ago too !!!!
  4. mbrood
    Simply beautiful and a perfect reason to pack a lunch and park and take a nice slow time about it.
  5. mbrood
    So my brother, Steve, and I were driving around in the country and we came upon one of those hills that at the right speed make your tummy feel funny as you go over the crest and Steve smiles... so we turn around , go back to try it again and all of a sudden he giggles... now if you know Steve... well, anyway he turns it loose and we are really getting up a head of steam and I'm thinkin' of asking him about the turn right after the peak when he starts giggling again... I knew to cinch up my seat belt. As we reached the crest we went up... and up... with the road turning off to the right, we both rather knew that this was different. The hood was pointing to a big green thing that finally registered and my right foot tromped onto the imaginary passenger brake pedal. Steve, still staring ahead calmly said, "This will probably really mess up the paint job.", and giggled. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/upatree.jpg
  6. mbrood
    The resistance from the inside of the plug holder to the ignition fues should be ~23K, 13K for the secondary of the ignition coil and 10K for the plug holder internal resistor. Unscrew the plug holder from the wire and recheck the end of the wire to the fuse... I would guess modified plug holders. But that IS on a 10% tolerance of the spec but to have them ALL in that region is rather odd.
  7. mbrood
    Entice them to a "special day all their own"... after all, they deserve a reward too.
  8. mbrood
    Progressive and parts (minus desired PVC spacer) -vs- stock and parts respectively (the three inch stock becomes a garage novelty. I used no spacer as the bike leaned WAY over on the side stand and I'm a smaller guy, don't need all of the extra to hold up my 120 pounds (like the bike would know...). http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/springs3.jpg
  9. mbrood
    Mighty fine looking trike... it's got "fun" written all over it! Now sand and gravel will be far less intimidating... as well as parking on a side slope.
  10. mbrood
    I am with Kevin... on a cold bike... start it up and run for 30-45 seconds and shut her down... now reach in near the heads and compare the heat on each exhaust pipe... odds are that the right rear is much cooler (not firing right). The unspent gas going into the exhaust would be a prime setup for backfire!
  11. mbrood
    Yep, what he said. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/oil-filter.jpg
  12. mbrood
    The clutch slave is fairly buried in the cavity behind the middle gear cover and will need an extended allen wrench to get to the two mount bolts. It means a new middle gear cover gasket and a seal replacement kit for the slave. Many slaves clean up fine but after so many years, quite a few have found scored pistons and a whole slave replacement isn't that much more money. Smell the drip... oil and brake fluid are totally different. And check that you don't have the somewhat traditional oil draining out of the airbox and down the #1 carb... an overfull crankcase pumps oil froth into the airbox making a mess. Oil also has a nasty habit of wicking out the stator wire fabric cover from the left engine side cover
  13. mbrood
    First thoughts are velcor or duct tape... best option is probably a gift certificate to DQ only redeemable on YOUR bike. Mike
  14. mbrood
    Thanks for checking further Dingy. That's another of those "doesn't cross" item for our list.
  15. mbrood
    Mechanically it looks different in the parts drawings... but the function should be the same and it's just vacuum pump and probably withing the same specs... the initial part number is different (assignment) but the main number is the same, 41V-85861-00-00 and INL-85861-00-00 respective to years.
  16. mbrood
    The LEDs pull about 1/10th the current that the incandescents do, I see absolutely no way they could have affected the dimmer, especially since it is fed by the reserve lighting unit and goes directly to the computer monitor. Although LEDs weren't designed to be put on a dimmer, they can be dimmed... just EXPECT some to dim faster than others, it's just the mechanics of their construction.
  17. mbrood
    I used superbrightleds.com... real reasonable pricing and super customer service. If in doubt, give them a call for info. I did a side by side comparison of the single red LEDs and incandescent used on my accessory running lights, behind the lens, I would have picked the LEDs hands down. Always remember to pick LEDs the same color as the lens... red light goes through red lenses, white loses all of the other colors to come out red and thus the perceived intensity goes in the bucket. The high beam indicator and dash lights use an interconnected common ground. The dash lights' power routes through the start switch while the high beam gets power from the reserve lighting unit.
  18. mbrood
    Although the sensor is rubber isolated to it's mountings (vibration), this doesn't allieviate it's mount location from engine heat, mine was relocated to up and to the left of the gas filler neck shroud (vertically) and it appears to be a happy camper there. You can see in the picture that there was some heat involved and a LOT of time, but I think that long brass interconnect tube was a culprit in conducting engine heat to the sensor. Relocation of the boost AND the TCI (for different reasons) is a very desireable mod.
  19. mbrood
    It wouldn't be the first "twinkie" that was reported to be leaking between the oil and water!
  20. mbrood
    The sensor should hold a vacuum. A slow leak is overcome by the constant vacuum of a running engine. There is an opening to ambient but that is used as the reference pressure. The seal of RTV to the actual sensor head deteriorates and you get the leak, the amount of the leak being dependant on the amount of damage. You can see the relative pressure openings on the back of the sensor head and lifting the board (almost always destroying the integrated electronics) shows the cracked seal. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/boost1.jpg http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/boost2.jpg You MIGHT be able to reestablish a new seal by carefully slicing along the housing side walls and gently pivoting the internals to get to the seal. The stuff in there is like rubber cement that is still very soft and tacky.
  21. mbrood
    You can get new ones from Drag Specialties http://asset.lemansnet.com/static/sites/dragspecialties/flipper/2012Fatbook/#page=793 Running Light replacement lenses Drag Specialties DS-28015 large red DS-280153 large amber DS-280168 small red DS-280167 small amber Commonly known as Baron's and Mini-Baron's
  22. mbrood
    On MKII bikes the top fuse is the ACC but that may be incidental. Normally the fuse is much higher rated than worst case expected load so it is definitely an indicator to find and fix. My first thought would be a pinched wire or splice has come loose. Under the seat and near the trunk are prone to a lot of shaking and jostling but that is just my experience. Like the earlier comment... what doesn't work with the fuse out? Ignition, headlights, flashers, radio, dash?
  23. mbrood
    I think it's primarily a rock deflector for the engine... too low to redirect air to the radiator or up to the cylinders.
  24. mbrood
    Just remember each accessory running light is typically 4 watts and they add up quick, but exchange them for LEDs and you have about 1/4 watt each, plus no appreciable heat behind the lens. With the increased load, be sure and check the white stator connector above the driver's left foot peg for heat shortly after a ride a couple times... a good cleaning and a good dialectric grease will go a long way in helping also.
  25. mbrood
    Stator 14.5 v = 30amp at 4-5000 rpm =420 watts, but only 20 amps at 2k rpm = 240 watts "Rectifier" (not regulator) =26amp =312 watts so our stock 30 amp stator is not the limiter. (p.32 of pdf manual) Main fuse is 40 amp, 10 more than stator! Fuel Pump =.7 amps = 8.4 watts Headlight = 4.6 amps = 55 watts Tail/brake light 8w/27w X2 =16/52w Toss in the turn signal/running lights and you are hitting over 1/2 the rated capacity @ 2k stopped at a light, holding the brake and a turnsignal on and you probably want some juice feeding the ignition system. Add on two 55 W lamps and you are pulling everything it can dish out and then some, expect stator, rectifier and wiring to start heating up quick and you would still be draining the battery!
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