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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    I think THIS is a bit more what they should look like... not sure of the manufacturer but print it up and take it down to an electronic component store??? ETD41-035 This is an umodified TCI... like yours, those grey (balloon) diodes need to come out and be replaced with 1N4007 type for durability. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci1.jpg
  2. mbrood
    Mike, What a classic... and HONEST review of your efforts. You certainly aren't alone in fixing one thing only to lightly mess up two others... so you start working on one of them and something ELSE pops up and we start to think the gremlins are eating us up... But to paraphrase Pogo:... "We have found the enemy and the enemy is us..." My own experieces have been with a side note... it seems that if I DON'T draw blood somewhere along the line... I'll be taking it apart to fix what I messed up... forgot the locktite, an "extra" spring laying on the floor, etc. Thanks for the write-up... it definitely made me grin at a few memories. I FIXED my class (error #4) by carefull disassembly, carefull soldering the main connector pins, carefully put it all back and it worked flawless... and then I saw the housing "clip" that I had forgot to put back... grrrr... I often invite my mother's dog to come out and "assist"... perfect excuse why I didn't "see" the clip or bolt or... I used to have a beautiful male Shar Pei that was my sidekick... he was absolutely PERFECT help in the garage. He would nudge a wrench or bolt a few inches away and then quietly sit on it. By then "I" was busy looking for the stupid thing, looking high, low and inside places it couldn't POSSIBLY be hiding and all the time the dog would look at me like "You REALLY need to find something, huh?" He had just a GREAT sympathetic look. "You should keep track of your stuff..." Then he would get up to "help"... and suddenly, in the middle of the floor, out in the open lies that item... grrr... But who can blame the help? http://www.bergall.org/temp/relaxed.jpg
  3. mbrood
    As I understand it, the timing advance (pressure sensor) is driven by vacuum... most fail by not advancing (broke) or not advancing enough (leaky hose or bad sensor) but it COULD be that high vacuum drives the unit spastic. Electronics are funny that way.. not unheard of? But my money is with fuel delivery.. either fuel filter or float level.
  4. mbrood
    I opened mine up and took it to a TV and stereo repair shop... they took it and had a new belt in it in a moment... $5.
  5. mbrood
    This is a view of the BOTTOM of the carbs with the left bank carbs on the left. Follow the pictured, black fuel drain hose on the lower left... just about the middle of this hose is the round, knurled knob you want. Directly above it is the spring loaded screw for balancing the sync between carbs #1 and #2. http://bergall.org/temp/venture/carb3.jpg
  6. mbrood
    There's quite a few of us that would REALLY like to know what jets and needles you put in there! If we could get rid of that big box and just use some individual filters it might be just great! I think there's another of our members that was wanting to go that route. It's always a designed system... certain jets and needles matching the designed housing vacuum,, cam dwell and exhaust setup is the "magic" setup. Guys go through extensive dyno tests to find a "magic" spot with performance changes. NOT cheap... and YOU may have stumbled on a new performance trick! I'd be REAL interested in your current mileage numbers WITH the cover off... (It's easy to get high performance if you will take a 10 mpg hit.)
  7. mbrood
    Don't forget that some bikes REALLY seem to benefit from replcing those flexible engine mounts with solid mounts. Mine was solved by new tires and CAREFULL attention to tire pressure. Just a few less pounds seems to change the whole feel!
  8. mbrood
    Dave, Although it looks straight forward... you wrote... "I put the diaphragms, needles and seats in my old carb"... Are you SURE the needles and jets were the SAME as your stock ones? Guys can rejet their carbs for various reasons and this might be the case?
  9. mbrood
    Some have experienced a vacuum in the tank and just cracking the cap can get the gas flowing again... plugged vent? If she's running even and strong, I would be real hesitant about ripping into the carbs. The diaphragms need checked just as a routine maintenance but that can be done real quick and easy from the "outside". Although the vast majority of "I smell gas" seems to be a momentarily stuck float needle letting gas flow out the overflow and onto the ground in front of the rear tire... rapping on the top of the offending carb, or draing the bowl and letting the FULL rush of new fuel flush the needle seat area seems to solve most of these. I just helped a guy with a V-Max.. his ALWAYS took the full "charge" at first to fill the bowls and he always could small gas after shut down... tracked it down to a small leak at the back of the number 4 carb (float cover). I took the carb bank off and found the cover screws were loose! All the others were very tight but the number 4 had three of the four just finger tight. He said he had never had the carbs off so no idea what happened but a bit of tightening and it was all tight and nice again. It was actually detected with just a good visual check... the back of three carbs were nice and aluminum colored and the number four had that typical brown "stain" of gas residue near the bottom... Those "stains" are real important in tracking problems down...
  10. mbrood
    I'd still be interested in some hard fix for the steep angle on the side stand. I have a 1st Gen and added the progressive fronts springs and now mine has that same nasty lean. I "can" jerk it up but I'm more worried about there being that much load on the stand and would really prefer to not see a failure... I thought about hooking a puck or something to the "foot" of the side stand but would prefer it be a bit more elegant.
  11. mbrood
    I've never heard of a kit for the Yamaha... you can ask Rick (Buckeye Performance) and he can get you anything. Until you get one apart, it's hard to really know if the needles or jets need replaced. The gaskets are sturdy rubber but the diaphragm, enrichment valve (rubber parts) need careful inspection and guys often replace the two rubber "caps" on the Jet block assembly. Another avenue to check... Mikuni made this special for Yamaha and gave the "rights" to Yamaha so you have to go through them as the main "vendor"... BUT... ours is a down draft BDS34 carb and Mikuni makes the similar side draft version... BS34 It might be worth while to check the bike shops to see if there's a kit for THAT carb.
  12. mbrood
    As I understand the operation... Turning on the ignition switch puts a five second signal to the pump (this is renewed when turning it off and back on OR cycling the kill button. Then the pump times out and is OFF. Once you hit the starter button... the engine turns over and the number two cylinder ignition pick-up sends a signal to the TCI, The TCI sends that pulse to the spark coil, the tach AND the fuel pump... each new pulse triggers the pump, keeping the fuel flowing.
  13. mbrood
    I pop the two bolts holding the fuel pump, lean it away and the fuel filter is "right there"... Otherwise you DO have to hire two midgets and a monkey to get to that darned thing. I usde to think that the Japs designed this for their "smaller hands" but there's just too many things that even a child would have trouble with... so we find another way to get the job done... And on the 1st gen, I just don't think there's room for that "upper" mount location shown on the 2nd gen photo.
  14. mbrood
    I agree with Juggler... the smaller was a 1/4 inch drive and just perfect for the clutch and things that need a lower torque. Small and easy to wield... nice for spark plugs too... and that ole 1/2 inch drive, 18 inch long one is just not handy in the confines of the spark plugs area. It's tough to hope for a tool that does everything but then... isn't it part of the universal rule that you will always need one more tool? (Those large allen bolts in the fork tubes come readily to mind.)
  15. mbrood
    You could try to put her in the lean and GET the noise and just BARELY ease in the rear brake to see if the sound is affected. You can also increase (decrease?) the rear air and see if there is a change? I had a load whine on medium sweepers... fortunately I was due for a new rear and that whine was left with the dealer... there was the "slightest" edge on the left side where the "flat area" transitioned to the side.
  16. mbrood
    Unless it's a modern one with a small light... it's just another power outlet, no draw if nothing is plugged in. But I still don't like things that are "always hot" and I even unplug one connector of the top trunk "vanity" light... that stupid switch can fail and runs your battery right down without you ever seeing it. And it's rather rare that I need it to check my makeup from the trunk.
  17. mbrood
    IF everything was pristine and the master was the ONLY problem, plan A would be an interesting run. But I wouldn't want to be doing major roadside troubleshooting or trying to find a midnight parts store. In my opinion it COULD be a high stress and expensive trip. Without hearing it run I wouldn't even consider it. Part B has a built in casual factor... no matter what, you bring the bike home hassle-free, get to spend time with the son and see the Grand Canyon too! The outlay is tied to a pretty fixed plan, no major surprises or headaches. If I was 20 again I would go for option A... hoping for the best but not bothered too much with endless hours on the roadside trying to use bailing wire to get me to the next service station. I'm a bit older and not as willing for these high optimst exploits. I've BEEN "stuck in Lodi"... I'll call it an "experience", but I wouldn't recommend it for the casual rider.
  18. mbrood
    Rick wrote about my picture... "Is that where all the little marks on the handlebars came from?" Yep... at least you could tell where he had been... those bolts were rounded, the housing scraped or the "spliced wires" for the rear marker lights were twisted and shoved between a frame member to ''hold them". He just didn't believe in solder, heat shrink, using the right tool or changing ANY fluids... if the level was up, it HAD to be fine. But there WAS a dandy selection of fuses in the tool bag and American sockets and allen wrenches! Anybody wanna try and work on these bikes with American standard tools? The oil was black... but at least it matched the brake and clutch fluids! For a second I thought he might have found a "custom" brake fluid... then I took the lid off the master cyclinder and saw that crusty "grunge" around the bowl. But by golly he kept the level up. He said he was having mild clutch problems...? Mine IS a Royale so I'm going to dig down there and find that darned fuse holder... rather do it now than down the road somewhere.
  19. mbrood
    Just for more info... What's the number on the NGK caps and are they right angle, straight or...? And they HAVE the resistor inside and are repairable?
  20. mbrood
    Ok guys, You got me... I don't see that four-fuse thing anywhere on mine... Now mine is pretty unmolested by the previous owner so maybe the holder is shoved somewhere? I didn't see it down the right side between the fairing and frame so...? Most things he did are easy to spot... he had the finesse and quality of a monkey with a hammer. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/fuseblock.jpg
  21. mbrood
    There's two holes in my TCI "bottom" and if you pull the cover, desolder the two large connectors and pull the board, there's a clear milar sheet for protection from those holes but that wouldn't stop high humidity or water drops if they get there. I assume the holes are for heat expansion or...? But that REALLY talks well for moving the TCI up higher... and since there IS enough cable length... I opened one from an 84 and it actualy had some OIL inside... a thin film but knowing electronics don't need regular lubrication... I figure maybe a former owner got carried away with a can of spray lubricant or... But it cleaned up well once you get those boards out. If you aren't good at soldering, these old connections might well be handed off to a friend that is better. They are awefully hard to replace for a spoiled soldering job. It's also my understanding that one of the "mods" through the years by Yamaha was to toss the fat, white diodes with the blue line for 1n4007. The fat ones were found prone to failure. I think there's ten in there.. almost in a row near the heatsinks,
  22. mbrood
    Maybe its a 90s thing? My 86 has nothing like that up around the battery. I think the "stickers" mentioned means under each fuse in the big, black main fuse holder. I can't upload a picture of mine... my server is screwy... but there's the main fuse on the hard left, the class fuse in the rubber holder next to the fork tubes and the main, black, fuse block and EVERYTHING uses the glass fuses. Is this a "newer" 1st gen thing from the 90s?
  23. mbrood
    I bought my marker lights from superbrightleds.com, they were WAY cheaper than the one refenced... http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html Use the CONE (side illuminating version). WLED-R Red WLED-A Amber Details and price ($0.79) are on this page.. half way down... http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&keywords=&cart_id=6562846.20753&next=50 Use the same color as the color of the lens. I replaced half my marker lights and waited for evening and then compared... hardly noticable... but WAY less current and the red LEDs actually looked better. Changing the ones in the front bumper and/or rotor covers uses a forward directed amber LED and these are WAY important... those incandescents heat the amber lens and MELTS them... they are NOT available and repair is a real pain. I think the only difference between 168 and 194 is the wattage... 4 -vs- 5 watts I believe. Lets see... 28 lights at 4 watts each = 112 watts at 12 volts, that looks to be a bit over 9 Amps! (amps * volts = watts) 28 LEDs chew up about 15 milliamps each... or 420 milliamps (.42 Amps)... Your electrical system will LOVE you if you change!
  24. mbrood
    The black rubber housing holds a 20 amp fuse and a spare for the CLASS. It goes to a nearby white two pin connector with red wires with a blue stripe. The "multi-fuse block" is not stock. The main clue is there's no color code to the wires.
  25. mbrood
    I scratched my head for more than a few minutes... then had a thought Take the two bolts out that hold the fuel pump... tilt it out of the way and you have easy access to the filter. It's sometimes all in how you hold your tongue...
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