Jump to content

mbrood

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,115

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    Also a great time to roll that axle across a flat surface... mine had a small "wobble"... how many check that?
  2. mbrood

    LED bulbs

    mbrood replied to Cutty's topic in General Tech Talk

    And there's TWO styles. The regular projects OUT the tip and is used when the TIP is pointed in the direction of viewing. Then there is the CONE... this type sends it's light out the side for those side mounted holders the running lights use. More specific info is here: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&keywords=&cart_id=8989153.13974&next=50 "What is the difference between Narrow and Wide viewing angle ? Some of our bulbs are available with Narrow or Wide viewing angle. The Wide angle (approx. 100 degree beam) will light up more area but dimmer than the Narrow angle. The Narrow angle (approx. 15 degree) will illuminate a smaller area but brighter than the Wide angle. We also offer bulbs with some LEDs aiming out the end of the bulb and some radially mounted LEDs aiming out the sides of the bulb. These will provide a more complete and even light pattern on the vehicle lens. We cannot recommend which type would work best in your vehicle because it depends on the size, shape and depth of your bulb housings. The Wide angle bulbs usually work best for most vehicles." I used the CONE TIP WLED-R for the running lamps (use the same color LED as the lens). I only used the single LED version with the WIDE angle and they look great! (cheap too...) You can also CALL them... they are GREAT to work with. I ALWAYS recommend the amber LED use for the brake rotor covers... the regular bulbs melt the orange plastic lens and since these are like hen's teeth... ever tried to repair melted opaque orange plastic? LEDs suddenly become REAL cheap.
  3. mbrood
    I think the dealer could stand to get a few "Good On Ya" emails from a few of us... Guys like this are hard to find and RARE. He got mine... kellysales@quickclic.net http://www.kellyscyclecentre.com/contacts.cfm
  4. mbrood
    Everything is the same as disassembly except you pull the 3 inch steel "tube" from the top of the original setup and replace the 3 inch tube with 1/2 inch PVC spacer provided from Progressive with the springs.. Here's a comparison on mine.. stock to progressive. Being a real lightweight, I opted to leave out the spacer and I STILL had about 3/4 inch of preload on mine which was still tough to get the cap screw compressed and started. (Did I mention I might need sand in my pockets for that job?) http://bergall.org/temp/venture/springs3.jpg And there's a better writeup in the 1st Gen tech section...
  5. mbrood
    Michael, The amp is looking for a SHORT between pin 1 and 7 on the cassette to amp cable to tell the amp to USE the radio... when this opens, the amp switches to the cassette audio... So we are ONLY dealing with the cable from the cassette to the amp. So here's what I think you want... Other guys have said you REALLY should ground the audio input to the outer ring (shield) on the amp cable that "used" to go to the cassette. http://bergall.org/temp/venture/audio-mpg.jpg Here's the original I drew up to ALSO use the cassette and ADD an MP3 or... (in this case, when the switch is off... the cassette/radio is in the normal funtion mode. When the swutch is thrown, the amp switches to the external input. http://bergall.org/temp/venture/audio.jpg
  6. mbrood
    I think a baseline (REAL basic) setting can be achieved with a basic look down the carb throat. You may need to push the slide back so you can see down there... The big screw in between #1 and 2 carb should be set so the butterfly plates in the carb venturi open at EXACTLY the same time. Twist the throttle and WATCH the two associated carb butterfly plates for the MOMENT of opening. Then over to the right side... One of them balances the front and back to match and the other screw is to match the left and right "carb bank"
  7. mbrood
    They are talking about item #10. this is accessed from outside the carb... just below the diaphragm cover. The brass jets (PJ1 and PJ2) are always screwed in tight... they meter through the internal orifice. Item 10 is a tapered needle that meters fuel flow and adjusts for the idle mixture. http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/images/vmaxcarb_small.jpg
  8. mbrood
    My bike would "sing" on leaning left or right. The rear tire "felt" fine to my hand. It was sweet that it JUST happened to be needing to be changed, because with the OLD carcass went the singing.
  9. mbrood
    Are you talking about those big aluminum carb diaphragm covers... (Pay no attention to arrowed items...) http://bergall.org/temp/venture/1stcarbs3.jpg I don't think you COULD get in a big enough crash to even GET to them... BUT... If someone was to try and buff them on a grinding wheel... you might have to add a dab of silicone when you broke through... I guess after the first one they weren't convinced?
  10. mbrood
    I believe this is STILL telling you there is a float sticking open and fuel is over flowing... These are fresh air inlets... The larger opening goes straight to the float bowl where the main fuel jets are located. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/carbsup.jpg
  11. mbrood
    I got a couple 203EZ adapters for my bike a while back... one fit tight and the other had a bit of "wobble" to it. The supplier was generous enough to send a replacement but I asked him to check it first for "wobble"... he said he was sending one of the "better" ones but even IT had a bit of play. I chased it down a bit more and found that they USED to be US made and held to tight specs but when they got farmed out (overseas) they had to loosen the specs to get a "friendly bid". So I think it's the nature of the beast for that particular one... and I didn't find anything better at the time.
  12. mbrood
    It's a large, four segment, black plastic canister... sitting right above the front cylinder's valve cover. There are four relatively heavy hoses running from the back of this "box" to the engine, one from each segment to "it's" cylinder. You want to plug each line at the engine, effectively removing the YICS chamber. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/yics.jpg
  13. mbrood
    I have a Precision Plastics unit that's tall but ALSO wider and it REALLY knocks down on the air the passenger feels. I think it stands up more as well, so your mileage may vary... but it's worked for me. I'm not sure if they still offer this for the Venture, though.
  14. mbrood
    I recommend an old one: Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance. actually a good read.
  15. mbrood
    Another benefit of changing parts... Note that the NEW springs and spring cups are LONGER... the parts near the ruler are original out of the bike... the lower ones are the "replacements". All three "original" springs were exactly the same length, but shorter than the new ones. Also... the right end of the cups (where the spring fits)... on mine... had a FLAT end and had chips and nicks around the edges and one of the cups had a nick that seized in the bronze (?) clutch housing. These NEW cups have a BEVEL at the right end!!!! http://bergall.org/temp/venture/starter/springs-a.jpg http://bergall.org/temp/venture/starter/springs-b.jpg And here's the end on the originals... the one that seized is on the right... http://bergall.org/temp/venture/starter/starter%20clutch3.jpg http://bergall.org/temp/venture/starter/springs-b.jpg
  16. mbrood
    Well, when the rotor comes off, it (typically) comes off the idler gear for the starter... that releases the dowels, springs and cups of the starter clutch... so (at least with mine) those will want to "find a new home". Lay down a towel and the parts won't travel as far. Other than that, the suggestions are GREAT about having a soft pillow for the rotor to "land" on when it pops off.
  17. mbrood
    Shoot... a little sanding and a nice coat of black paint and that puppy will look awesome! Nice job, simple need and an elegant fix!
  18. mbrood
    Sometimes it's JUST NOT FAIR... A guy sets himself up better than George Burns... and Gracie (and we) has to be quiet... It's just not fair...
  19. mbrood
    Mine did that for a while... turned out to be a "dead" o-ring in the thermostat housing. Just a perfect spot to drip into the chin cowl.
  20. mbrood
    Riding home from work up near San Jose, I had a full face helmet and it DOES get hot up there in the late spring. I was only doing about 55 and it started to heat up in the helmet so I lifted the visor for some air. I remember seeing a "dot" in the air and at that same time I felt like I had been hit by a 2X4... square between my eyes. My eyes immediately started watering, the pain wasn't too much fun, but I couldn't SEE! I was grabbing gears, downshifting and easing it over to the side of the road. I'm dragging my feet, feeling the road and then feeling gravel. I drag it to a halt, get off and try and jerk the helmet off but it doesn't want to go. I grab some towels out of the tool box and wipe my eyes but there is a nasty "barb" or something at the bridge of my nose and that whole area is swelling up fast. I finally got my eyes clear enough to look in the mirror and there sits the stinger and the hind end of a bumble bee. It must have been going the same direction as me, just not fast enough... so it nailed me. My eyes were starting to swell shut and I had a thought of "Can I get home before I can't see...?" I just parked the bike on the side, tried to pluck ALL of the stinger and stuff out and flagged down a ride for the last 1/2 mile home... I was THAT close. I got the helmet off an it only took a couple hours for the swelling to go down a bit so I could see again... A couple more hours and I got a ride back up the road to get the bike. That "not being able to see" stuff kinda messes with your sense of well being!
  21. mbrood
    The rubber bellows is called a diaphragm. Yamaha number: 26H-25854-00-00 DIAPHRAGM, reservoir They probably have to order it. I thought mine was worn, I cleaned it up REAL good and eased it into position and it sealed fine. You have the eyes on this one. Mike
  22. mbrood
    I think he may have been fighting with his research but missed out on the true and vital finding... Motorcycle riding cures headaches and stress. Maybe we can market it????
  23. mbrood
    I say it's a conspiracy. SOMEONE is behind the quiet obsoleting of all the goodies for our fabulous 1st Gen Ventures. It's a conspiracy, I tell ya. And there's a few 2nd Gen owners who have gotten AWFUL quiet lately...
  24. mbrood
    I'm thinking the cruise was standard... BUT the ones with cruise use a FIFTH cable into the junction box... Two go in from the "pull-pull" from the throttle, two to the carb bank and the fifth from the cruise vaccum diaphragm.
  25. mbrood
    I know there is a light kit for the 86-93 1st Gen Ventures. Not knowing the ABSOLUTE dimensions of your trunk... I'm not positive it fits. I know the LARGER trunk transition from 84-85 made the newer trunk like the 86... if it's THE SAME... it's 26 1/4" across at the widest spot (basically the attachment point for the scissor lock and 21 1/2" across at the rear corner, left to right. If these coincide... http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2003561/p-2003561/N-111+10715+600020984/c-10615 http://www.jcwhitney.com/wcsstore/jcwhitney/images/imagecache/G_13561G_CL_1.jpg They come with one bulb (each side) for turn signal and then four across the back with inside bulbs tied together and outer 2 tied together... brake and running or tie them (all four) together. I opened mine up and doubled the lamps under the red.
×
×
  • Create New...