mbrood

A radio antennae is suppose to be isolated from ground. It's easy on an install to miss an insolating washer... check resitance of the antennae to chassis frame. There isn't any rocket science to the radio antennae...

http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/venture-carb-part-differences.html

Fairly typical of low clutch fluid or air, bleed the clutch and then insure the reservoir is half full on the glass and the bellows are clean and relaxed and you should be good to go, but it will reoccur until you get the new seals in the slave or a new slave.

It's quite simple, really, you moved the part away from it's primary smoke generator... and electronics can be so fond of smoke. Actually, Ben's approach is quite correct. With a multimeter, a frayed wire with only one strand still connected will read a short on a resistance check while hooking up a light power draw like a small bulb will amplify that type of problem by a larger than expected voltage drop.

Yep, since the moving air keeps things dry, I could park it and take my time and everything was OK. After an hour or two I could smell it. It never really got stronger but if I left it there about three days the stink was gone... but so was the fuel in that bowl I guess.

I would pull the plugs on the offending cyliners and see if they are dry. My guess is that they are wet and flooded, if so, leave the plugs out and let the cylinders dry out. Either the float needle seat is blocked with grit or the float has a leak and is dropped in the bowl. I would drain the left side carbs, then, with the drains open turn the ignition on to let it flush the float seat with fresh gas in hopes any grit gets washed away. Turn the ignition off, shut the drains and turn the ignition back on and recheck for overflow (dropped float)... if the ticking stops as normal, start her up and check again.

That would basically be the same as the rest running with them closed and parking it the same way. I think you need to look for other sources. I had a "stink" that was pretty elusive, dusted some talc around the carbs and the bottom of the tank, fuel pump and filter. Turns out that I had seepage under one carb fuel bowl cover, not much but enough to smell. Pulled the carb stack, broke away the left from the right banks and pulled each screw, sure enough the offender had two loose, put some blue Loktite on 'em and tighterned it all and tossed the stack back on... sync was VERY close since none of the settings were affected that way.

Since the ABS WILL be flexing, you want to insure that your paint is selected for this, just like auto bumpers use a "special" paint for the proper adhesion and so the flexing is coped.

Not too hard to cludge up with a slightly tilted Mercury switch. The previous owner of my xs750 tossed something like that together with two tilted left and right and wired into the ignition as a tip over engine kill... except if you went real slow around a very tight turn, it would temporarily kill the ignition... and I found this not condusive to safe driving, darned scary, so it got the ole heave ho to the garage parts bins. I'm sure exhaustive adjustment would have found a happy setting but I wasn't about to pick it up a few more times in an intersection.

Yep, remember it well... turn the radio on and wait while the tubes to heat up... then tune to your station of choice... then as you drive and the radio gets warmer the tuner drifts so you retune, almost always up... then a bit later it gets a bit fuzzy so you retune... but hey, if it was a trip of an hour or so you had a good half hour of untouched tuner and some sweet tunes.

The plugs should be gapped to spec. This is matched to the coil and the specified resistances in the system. The high RPM is controlled by the high speed needle, main air and fuel jets and the butterfly. The lower RPM is controlled by the idle mixture screw and the idle air and fuel jet... this goes from idle up to around 2K as the butterfly and main needle start contributing as throttle advances. The most classic problem is for the TINY fuel idle jet in the fuel bowl to get clogged requiring choke be used from idle to around 2k but would have almost no impact at the higher RPM. Separate out the response areas on your bike and you narrow down where to look. I think the plastic (on or off) is a red herring... you fired her up and ran her through some paces... I would bet that a bit of grung broke loose or some dirt found it's way. Remember that the high speed jets are plenty fat and hard to clog.

Yes, it's a valuable ability to stand and give our respect humbly to those that gave their full measure so that we could retain these freedoms and liberties. http://www.bergall.org/holidays/memorial.jpg

The Confederate Air Force makes a yearly venture out with their birds, both as a gesture of history and an opportunity to actually get a ride up on one... if you get a chance it IS worth the ticket!!! Those gunners were MEN... look at the altitude and the temps they endured... no stewadess, no fliks, no restrooms or comfy blanky for your lap... restrooms were forgotten when you spotted a ME-109's nose pointed your way... lots of things became secondary real quick. Enjoy Memorial Day and take a few moments to show respect and appreciation in the way you see fit. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/b17.jpg

Pete has the floor on the spitting, I believe. For the "reluctant" slide, did you insure the integrity of the SMALL o-ring just inside the carb diaphragm cover?

6 handy tips... 1 Scrolling in a browser... use the space bar to scroll down... shift-space bar to scroll up 2 Need larger text in a browser... hit CTRL-+.... repeat as desired, CTRL-- is the inverse (CMD for Macs) (Ctrl-O returns to original size). 3 Need current flight info... open google and just type in the flight number (Delta 324)... instant status. 4 Need a converter... open google and type it in (inches in 32cm) 5 Need to delete a word in text... just double click it and hit DEL. (triple click to encompass entire sentence.) 6 When texting on a phone... don't search for a period, then a space bar and then for the capital letter for the next sentence... just hit space twice.

Similar materials here can gall and sieze. Pentrants won't mean a thing. I would use the pipe wrench idea and try and rotate the remains a bit one way and then the other, for that you DO want a couple good shots of penetrant.

Pulling the large white connector off the TCI and read resistance between the ignition fuse and the connector's pins 2, 3, 6 & 7 for your primary coil resistance. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tciplugs.jpg

Yeah Michael, you can tell by the "wings" that it's a Precision product. It's tall AND wide. It may not be the best for economy of gas but if the passenger is happy the driver's head doesn't get smacked as much. One problem with the Venture is that in stock form, the wind spills over the windshield toward the trunk... without a passenger, some experience some strangeness at speed that can be relieved a bit if the trunk is removed, I've yet to feel this with the Precision unit as I'm sure it spills well aft of the bike at speed.

I bought a replacement from them last year for my 86VR. Precision Plastic Prducts, Inc. (also called Precision Lexan) 111 E 8th St Gibson City, IL 60936 (217) 784-4920 originally I had a note: plastic-man.com but that seems to be a dead addy There was also an addy used... http://www.precisionlexan.com But that seems dead as well.

I put a Precision Plastics shield on, which is not only considerably wider but the outer edges bank more outward and my wife's enjoyment went way up, especially concerning helmet buffeting. They actually overlap the very inside of the mirror but I have never seen this an issue. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/precision.jpg

Sounds like the U joint or the nut on the coupler to it.

You want to lay down some plastic and absorbant material under the master to protect ANYTHING beneath or nearby. Take the reservoir cover off and syphon out the fluid you can, then wipe her down inside. Remove the nut and bolt holding the lever. This will come out and you want to pull the short pushrod followed by the rubber dust protector and the pushrod spring. Clean inside the hollow so you can clearly see and get at the circlip locked in the inside of the piston cylinder. Now you need straight, narrow, circlip pliers to pull the circlip. As you pull the piston you might get a bit more fluid so be prepared. Once it's out you want to pull out the piston return spring and then shine a light in the end you pulled the piston and look in the reservoir and insure that the main (fill) hole and the tiny (relief) hole in the bottom of the reservoir are clear. The repair kit contains the two rubbers for the piston, a new pushrod, spring and dust seal rubber. Assemble in reverse. Once the circlip and lever are reassembled, fill the reservoir halfway and start pumping the lever the get the piston area full. If you don't get any pressure, you probably have an air bubble at the banjo bolt, break it SLIGHTLY and use the "bleeding" technique to get the air out of the banjo area, tighten it up and you should be good... if it's still spongy, go down to the slave's bleed and do a typical clutch bleed.

I would think your common variable Dremel would work fine for this, they even have various size chuck inserts to handle the job.

What's shown was a simple tack... a MIG welder would make that solid!

Devco sells a couple sizes of plastic welder... Walmart and quite a few others carry it.