Jump to content

mbrood

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,115

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    I think Freebird took your mistaken count and then used your mistaken turn count. On the 1st gen bikes.. from a "softly seated" idle mixture screw, you want to turn it out 2 1/8th to 2 1/4 revolutions. It's a fuel feed, so further out means richer, in more equals leaner settings.
  2. mbrood
    It sounds like you have it understood. The mixture screws are below the diaphragm cover on each carb and the sync screws are as you described, with "balancing" springs on them to hold the preloaded postion of the sync plates. I believe you should be able to pull the airbox cover and filter and look inside... The first step is to see that number 2 is fully closed with the throttle relaxed.. not enough slack in the throttle cables can keep this one open a bit and all the other carbs sync to that one. As you CRACK the throttle, all four butterflies should come off a fully closed position together. If you can see that this isn't the case you have a starting point.
  3. mbrood
    Pegscraper, That may be true for the 96 but for his 84... these four pickups would be REAL tough to shift in ANY way. The flywheel has two embedded magnets and they aren't changing location either... http://bergall.org/temp/venture/alternator-a.jpg a1bummer, The timing is advanced or retarded by the boost sensor so if there's a problem, THAT is the unit to check. The service manual has the basic measurements... I find that most just need the first reading with the ignition on and not started... the manual says it should be about 2 volts... much higher or lower and you need a new boost sensor.
  4. mbrood
    If yours is a straight 5 pin din on each end, you can use a keyboard extension cable, a midi cable... or you can repair the offending end... http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p112.htm http://www.oselectronics.com/Images/pg_112/din_female.gif http://www.oselectronics.com/Images/pg_112/din560.gif
  5. mbrood
    Isn't it a bit relative? http://bergall.org/temp/maniac.jpg
  6. mbrood

    89VR

    mbrood replied to a topic in Poor Man Tips and Fixes

    The upper section is secured to the lower with a screw from INSIDE the mirror housing and is factory set for a specified friction. If you pop off the mirror (just two bolts under the rubber boot) you will see the exposed screw threads up inside the lower bracket... So I suppose you COULD cut a slot in the exposed threads and back the screws out and release the upper housing... but then you have a difficult match-up and mounting.
  7. mbrood
    I've read where several folks recommend the 86-93 bikes upgrade (?) to the jets used in the 83, ie... 3G2-14231-36-00 JET, 1 MAIN (#180.0) from stock 170 4G0-14142-32-AO JET, PILOT (#42.5) from stock 37.5 One in depth article is all full of the improvements it would make to a 1300 engine used in Denver at 5,280 feet... not quite applicable to the rest of us folks. I hear that there's some throttle transition improvement but never see what difference was made to gas mileage or real other changes... Anybody have some more specific info? And is there some prefered compound to use on minor cracks on the lower, rubber carb manifolds?
  8. mbrood
    I paid about $50 for a 4 carb sync tool (yeah, with mercury) but it takes about 20 minutes... and once you have the tool, there's no more charges at the shop when you are just "wondering"... So for the cost of one trip to the shop...
  9. mbrood
    And you did this because...? just curious...
  10. mbrood
    For carb alignment, one friend recommended using a large piece of paper and lay it over the lower rubber manifold and trace the holes... then compare the mounted carb rack locations. With these rubber manifolds having a tendency to crack, this could be part of it. I had to use a piece of wood as a pry bar to get my carb bank up and out of the lower boots!
  11. mbrood
    Hmmm. a hard to get to ground and it's thought this is for the TCI and radio... and guys have odd trouible of radio noise and random TCI performance? Could this be a culprit for many?
  12. mbrood
    This ground point sure seems like a fantastic candidate for a new mount location... who's inspected THIS connection lately... or even been in deep enough to check? Great picture JimBob!
  13. mbrood
    There's no lever adjustment. There's a spring below the small rod that actually engages the lever to the master piston and this should hold the lever out (and engaging the clutch safety switch. with a properly bled clutch, my 86 has about 1/4" of "spring loaded" freeplay before it starts pushing the piston. http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gifx?d=12657,6,0
  14. mbrood
    So you have a whole bunch of motorcylists and a big field... any ideas of fun? Personally, I would want to see the out-takes...
  15. mbrood
    And I thought it almost impossible to get a Venture upright after a tip over...
  16. mbrood
    Danob11 may be on the right trail, I believe the single wire goes to a bolt on the side of the frame that holds the TCI... but the dual??? The solenoid terminals are SMALL ring type on mine and one is hotwired to the BIG hot terminal on the solenoid and the the other runs to the starter switch. I think that green connector is for a California version, fume canister or something... my green connetcor is stuffed up with the coil wires
  17. mbrood
    This is fairly typical if a bike has been sitting for a while. Often you just have to start the engine, hold the rear brake, pull in the clutch and put her in first... The plates probably aren't stuck at all, just stiff from sitting. That clutch fluid should be changed just because of the color. Then you should feel about 1/4" of free play at the end of the lever, followed by a firm pull all the way to the handle. On a typical clutch, the plates actually disengage at about 1/2 travel.
  18. mbrood
    Nauga hides don't last real well out in the weather... the surface breaks down... your best bet is to shoot a couple naugas and do a recover. My friend's seat was like that... seat and passenger backrest. I told him it was a Yamaha feature, a new type of seatbelt... sit down and you were quite stuck. Yep, you could feel it try and pull off your jeans when you tried to get up. I tried quite a few cleaners, most were a waste of time for a big area, some wanted to remove the "color"... then I stumbled on a rag soaked in gas... still takes a bit of rubbing (and scrape the melted excess goo) and then some more gas and rubbing... it came out fine, and it only took a week for the gas stink to air out... but a year later they are still clean and non-sticky. I actually was a bit liberal with the gas in a reasonable area and swirled it around with my finger which softened the BLACK goo, then I used a plastic credit card edge to scrape the excess goo up... then more gas rag and rubbing.
  19. mbrood
    Can someone tell me how the plugs can be "shot"? I guess I'm still lost in the 70s where, as long as you had a usable electrode and tip... clean 'em up and toss 'em back in. I know these bike don't give a very bright spark, but what the heck happens...? And you can't LOOK at the plugs and tell? I really am curious. Thanks. Mike
  20. mbrood
    you should be able to use this info: http://bergall.org/temp/venture/headsetpins.jpg
  21. mbrood
    Jack, I don't know that they really "beefed up" the frame... the problem was reported as poor welds that allowed moisture to rot out the joint, mainly near the lower cross over... affecting 83 and 84 models.
  22. mbrood
    I believe the 1st gen bike tool kit was factory placed in the right saddle bag, toward the front, secured with that strap... The tool quality on mine were rather simple and cheap but WOULD suffice on a roadside, but it's much better to replace with a small (and specific) assortment of better quality. The bags came in a soft cover and the "DeLux" leather kit... which just bought you nice pockets for item with a zipper closure. I always try and replace often touched screws with allen bolts... makes it easier and no stripped heads on the roadside. http://onestopoutlet.net/pictures/83royale45.jpg http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/83-93-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-XVZ1200-1300-Tool-Kit-Bag_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35589QQihZ007QQitemZ170234768882QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
  23. mbrood
    The easiest thing to do is get down there and LOOK at the pads on the rear... it's tight but you can use a flashlight and a mirror to see how much pad is left. I've experienced far more wear on the front but that may just be my riding style.
  24. mbrood
    The 83 IS a unique animal. It also has no cutout on the right side panel that on later years would be for the fuel petcock. The side panels for the 83-84 did not have the option for the vents and also didn't use the rubber "snubber" at the bottom... not sure about the 85. 86 introduced the passenger audio and CB PTT control and it's mount on the trunk. I also think the 1200s had a small adjustment range for the footpegs that became fixed on later units. The temp gauge sensor is different on the 1200s to 1300s. The clutch plate mount is also different. And let's not forget the 2nd gear and frame issues with the 83 and 84. 86 introduced a different lubrication source for the axle. 83-84 trunk mount had one ear for an antennae mount, later units had provision for dual. 83-84 didn't have the foot brake bleed nipple at the steering head (offered later as an upgrade). 84-85 Cruise activation on the right handlebar, 86-93 moved activation to steering head cover. 83-85 had hydraulic anti-dive, changing to electric in 86... so with the changed anti-dive and increased capacity brake caliper, the lower forks don't swap... also making the upgrade rotor covers and brake caliper covers unique to engine size.
  25. mbrood

    running hot?

    mbrood replied to a topic in General Tech Talk

    Michael, What vendor sold the temp switch and/or do you have a manufacturer and part number? Do you know the switch trip temperature?
×
×
  • Create New...