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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    I would check both the engine flange and the mate surface on the filter cover for nicks or... that can keep the two from seating FLUSH.. Test it without the o-ring or bolt to "feel" if it rocks at all... you can also lay a piece of paper in between the two and twist a bit on the filter cover to see if it "catches" the paper.
  2. mbrood
    It's possible to resolder the "solder mound" on the main connector block and STILL get the random error codes... an easy check is just cycle the ignition key while jiggling the cable... if the codes change... it's STILL the connector block. It's the PIN that has microscopic corrosion around it making an intermittent connection. The "trick" is that you want to apply the soldering IRON (never a gun) to the TIP of the PIN... you don't want to even TOUCH the solder mound. You want the iron to heat the pin up enough that it breaks down the corrosion and starts transmitting heat to the surrounding solder mound... finally melting it. THEN add a TINY bit of new solder and get off. The BEST method is the same as above but as the solder mound starts to melt, use solder wick or a solder sucker and get rid of the old solder... reheat the PIN and then add fresh solder. More solder doesn't make a better connection.
  3. mbrood
    You are experiencing hydraulic lock. And as you noted, any bleed of the line sets things right. I know it's a pain, but it sounds like the master piston isn't going BACK far enough (relaxed position) to open the TINY pressure relief opening in the bottom of the reservoir. Pull the bolt and nut holding the lever and remove... this allows the piston to move BACK even more and that pressure should be relieved. If it is not, that tiny hole is plugged or the big spring on the end of the master piston is weak (never heard of that though). You should also be able to look in the lever end of the piston and it SHOULD be fully relaxed and flush with the circlip that holds it in the housing. If pulling the lever DOES relieve the pressure you need to find out what's stopping the piston from relaxing enough to open the relief hole... mine was only happy when I filed a small bit off the flat end of the short pushrod between the lever and the piston. With mine on the bench, I couldn't "blow" back into the banjo bolt hole with the lever mounted, with new overhaul kit and clean parts. The design is that, with the piston fully relaxed, it opens that TINY hole to the clutch line to the slave, releasing any pressure build up. This also keeps engine heat from heating and expanding the fluid while driving around and engaging the clutch (resultant clutch slip).
  4. mbrood
    I think you hit on the important points... He doesn't see the clutch parts separate as he engages the clutch... wrong! He can see the center move (along with the rear wheel) ...wrong, these should be FIRMLY engaged without the lever pulled. Something is holding these plates apart AGAINST the clutch spring force. It sounds like the clutch is locked in the release mode. I would pull off the slave (always go back where you were last before the problem hit)... this should release the clutch plates. Now the shifter shaft not moving... this is a simple shaft coupled linkage back to the tranny on the left side... THAT shaft passes through to the clutch side and there's a series of pins over there that can fall out and that might lock the lever... sounds like that might be something for inspection... You should be able to get your hand up on the left side and "feel" the linkage is wiggling, from the foot lever through the linkage to the tranny mounted shaft... if it "wiggles" then we are looking over on the right side for the problem... I'm no expert but it sounds like an attack plan.
  5. mbrood
    There's a round hole on the bottom of the metal that "catches" a tang of the switch... push in the hole and release the "latch" and ease out the switch.
  6. mbrood
    The slave IS a bit tough to get to and if you even hint at rounding the two bolts... replace 'em. I got my bike and it was sweet... for a couple days, then the clutch would go "soft"... bleed it and it was ok for a while. When I opened the middle gear cover I could see two perfectly rounded allen bolts. The previous owner probably just gave up. It's a BEAR to get ANYTHING in there and Craftsman extractors saved the day since they grab on the OUTSIDE of the head... popped them puppies right out. It turned out that the p.o. had a wonderful selection of American standard tools, just perfect for rounding internal and external heads. Wherever I found a rounded bolt head or allen, I knew I should get in there and fix "something".
  7. mbrood
    If you hook the sensor wire to the "hot" screw on the fuse panel, you blow out the detector chip in the dash monitor... You REALLY want to use a 2.2k Ohm resistor in-line to the "hot" to "simulate" a good battery.
  8. mbrood
    Check this post for the different things to look for to put the fork brace in and have everything right... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23200 I believe the "shouldered" spacer had the shoulder turned down by the thickness of the TWO disc covers... this keeps the overall length the same but allows for the thickness of the covers/
  9. mbrood
    I got pulled over, in southern California, by a Highway Patrol. I was doing 65, in the slow lane. He said he saw my radar detector on my dash and KNEW that I must be a speeder but I had been JUST within the law and he just wanted to warn me... warn me that cops LOOK for that type of thing. I leaned over and took my dayplanner notebook off the dash... he thought it very funny. I wasn't so amused. I asked him if they were legal in California and he said yes, but when I see one, I lay back and let them buy themselves a ticket. Strange, since on California highways, the slow lane is basically 65-75, next lane is about 75-80, next one is about 85 and the fast lane varies up to ridiculous. I used to get in the fast lane and stay there... whatever traffic allowed, I was up to it... now I'm a lot older and just not that interested in paying for the "privilege" of speeding THAT much. (Yeah, the price has gone WAY up!)
  10. mbrood
    The idle mixture screws are fuel feed so counter-clockwide makes a richer idle setting.
  11. mbrood
    The earlier bikes had a TCI unit. I think it was 1990 when they transitioned to a CDI unit and with this the four ignition pick-ups (5 wire plug) became a single pickup. And it looks like it shown as just a coil, no fancy stuff, so it SHOULD have a fairly low resistance reading.
  12. mbrood
    I show the same sequence: 83-85 26H-81960-A0-00 86-93 2WR-81960-A0-00 My 86 definitely has the brown wire. Six pin connector, two blacks, two reds and one brown, all heavier gauge wire. I wish there was something on the regulator section but it's drawn as an empty box. The red wire is shown as coming directly off the positive end of the rectifier array and going to the battery and ignition switch. Whereas the brown is shown connected to the "empty box" and also connects the ignition switch as well but THAT line feeds the fuse panel. If so, the red would be unregulated, rectified output of the alternator (which varies), except for that funny little zener diode shown feeding the regulator... so I'll assume it's the feedback/control line that locks the red line to 14.5 volts and is also a load sense for the regulation??? So it looks like when you turn ON the ignition, you hook up the red line to the brown line which feeds back to the regulator/ Here's from an 83 manual, but the 86 manual looks basically the same... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/electrical1.jpg http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/electrical2.jpg
  13. mbrood
    Supposed 5.8 out of Anaheim. Felt it down in Oceanside, though... just a gentle rumbler down here... did nothing but freak out the ankle biter of a dog... didn't even rattle windows.
  14. mbrood
    I was in the process of overhauling the carbs on my 86... I had thown in a heavy dose of SeaFoam and shortly thereafter it started really acting up... but mainly #1 cylinder was really not wanting to fire. I had drained the bowls and took a week or so to get back to them and then broke them apart and opened up #1... and when the fuel bowl cover came of... look what I found in the bottom... http://bergall.org/temp/venture/carb-rust.jpg Yep, that BROWN stuff is rust. Everybody put down your hands... it wasn't the tank. It was from the fuel overflow pipe. Just above the bevel at the top of the picture, the inside of the overflow was coated in rust. #2, #3 and #4 look fine, dull but clean. That tiny idle jet (37.5) looked opaque on all four... rather a light brown, but almost clear... when I tried to blow through them, it didn't work. Seems part of the problem was easy to solve. I also found the enricher diaphragm on #1 had RUST. Now it's the right rear so I thought it would more protected from the elements but that's what I found... It may be a rare case of "Mike gets the good one"... but it's an easy check for you guys that get that filter housing off to pull the overflow lines and look inside! And of course, mine had four totally different lengths of overflow hose... come on... put your hands down... the front carbs take ONE length and the back carbs take ONE length... I have four separates... and one (by golly) seemed to be the right length... the others were varying degrees of too short. And yeah, #1 was the shortest. My day for weird I guess. Nromally I would just soak the jets and bodies in cleaner and then use carb cleaner to blow them out. This time I called around and found a "speed shop" that would ultrasonic clean them and the jets for $20. And believe me... it's a world of difference. What looked like a human hair opening in the tiny jet now looks like you can fit three and everything is CLEAN. Strangely the bath didn't get rid of some of the aluminum oxide where the rack bolts go but everything else was sparkling. The regular motorcycle shops wanted $80-$150 for the bath and blowout... shop around.
  15. mbrood
    My experience has already been reflected above... a VERY high pucker factor and I barely raise off the saddle, just slightly more on my feet and HELP the bike find it's way through. You can't force a straight line and you can't force it not to dance around on the marbles, it's a dance, just not the fun kind. Did I mention the pucker factor? As was said, the front brake is the exact tool to use to dump it... I don't even touch it in gravel or sand and sand can actually be worse, changing from hard pack to fluffy... now THAT is a wheel grabber and there isn't much to be done if you didn't avoid it first, but with SMOOTH power control you can get through an aweful lot. Remember it's a dance and you can get through a lot more than you thought. Treat it like a road and you get to take a closer look. Remember.. if THEY did it... we can... http://bergall.org/temp/plank%20road.jpg
  16. mbrood
    You have it, Condor. Many folks do the same thing with horns so just ONE wire runs to the control. Don't know if that's what this guy did... but... Plus, put an ohm meter on them and see if they both read about the same to ground... it's going to be a LOW reading since it's just a filament! Or pull the bulbs and ohm the two socket pins to the wires and checking the socket "case" already goes to chassis ground.
  17. mbrood
    I've seen a few "driving" lights where they wired the ground wire immediately to the bracket (chassis?) so two wires might mean....
  18. mbrood
    They aren't by Yamaha... purely secondary market, originally made by bigbikeparts. Original equipment is a simple wrap-around reflector.
  19. mbrood
    The best times to view elk are usually early morning and late evening. Elk may also be active on cloudy summer days and before or after storms. Enjoy elk at a distance, using binoculars or a spotting scope for close-up views. Approaching wildlife too closely causes them to expend crucial energy unnecessarily and can result in real harm. If you approach an animal so closely that it stops feeding, changes direction of travel, or otherwise alters its behavior, you are too close! Most of the elk are located in the Cataloochee area in the southeastern section of the park. The easiest way to reach Cataloochee is from Interstate highway I-40. Exit I-40 at North Carolina exit #20. After 0.2 mile, turn right onto Cove Creek Road and follow signs 11 miles into Cataloochee valley. Allow at least 45 minutes to reach the valley once you exit I-40. Warning! Elk are large animals-larger than the park's black bears-and can be dangerous. Female elk with calves have charged people in defense of their offspring. Males (bulls) may perceive people as challengers to their domain and charge. The best way to avoid these hazards is to keep your distance. Never touch or move elk calves. Though they may appear to be orphaned, chances are their mother is nearby. Cows frequently leave their newborn calves while they go off to feed. A calf's natural defense is to lie down and remain still. The same is true for white-tailed deer fawns. The use of spotlights, elk bugles, and other wildlife calls are illegal in the national park. It is also illegal to remove elk antlers or other elk parts from the park. Never feed elk or other wildlife or bait them in for closer observation. Feeding park wildlife is strictly forbidden by law and almost always leads to the animal's demise. It also increases danger to other park visitors. The experimental release of elk into Great Smoky Mountains National Park began in February, 2001 with the importation of 25 elk from the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area along the Tennessee-Kentucky border. In 2002, the park imported another 27 animals. All elk are radio collared and will be monitored during the five-year experimental phase of the project. If the animals threaten park resources or create significant conflicts with park visitors, the program may be halted. Project partners include the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation, Parks Canada, Great Smoky Mountains Natural History Association, Friends of the Smokies, the U.S.G.S. Biological Resources Division, and the University of Tennessee.
  20. mbrood
    I have always had better results with a wolf whistle.
  21. mbrood
    Should be easy to open them up and check? Three wires for each housing? Broken filaments aren't unheard of on bikes but it's probably a wrong bulb or disconnected wire? These bikes don't like a lot of electrical load and running THREE high beam lamps would definitely load that system... probably even brought the system to it's knees so the previous owner disconnected???
  22. mbrood
    I opened mine when I first got ready to put it on... good thing too... I found the wire crrimps were junk (at best) and one was just laying there... http://bergall.org/temp/venture/bigbike5.jpg You want to clean up and protect any wire junctions and it helps to secure the wires so they don't get bounced around. Since they use hot glue to mount the lenses, it IS a pain to heat SLOWLY and work the lenses off. I bought side illuminating LEDs from superbrightleds.com CHEAP source and quality products... you want to use the RED wedge bulbs under the red lens and AMBER under the amber lens. These are POLARIZED so you REALLY want to fire them up before you replace the lenses... I also put a small dab of RTV on each bulb and holder to keep them tight. The old bulbs burn out... the LEDs are almost infinite life... try it. Make sure you peal the old glue and apply new glue when you reinstall the lenses... they can come off down the road and aren't available, I believe.
  23. mbrood
    With the 93, you won't have the 4 pickups of the earlier units, just the pickup you saw. It SHOULD be isolated from the chassis and picks up it's ground from the CDI. I believe the BIG problem is that you say you don't see any voltage to the coils. You should be able to discommect the CDI entirely, turn the key on and GET 12 volts to the coils... if not, you need to find out why. The CDI (and TCI earlier units) provide a GROUND to the coils "low" side to get the spark. With no volts on the COMMON "hot" side of the coils, all other tests are off track.
  24. mbrood
    An earlier topic sure set my mind to memories... Back in the 40s, with gas and darned near everything else being rationed... they came out with lots of tips and tricks to save. Mostly the idea was to conserve... make combined trips when you went out and conserve effort and material... With gas so high, it's worth repeating... http://z.about.com/d/history1900s/1/0/O/T/wwiip44.jpg But of course, just think of the high cost of visits to the mental doctor when a simple "sanity ride" can do the trick. That's saving too! So do us all a favor, do your nation a favor... get out a take a sanity ride... family, neighbors and co-workers depend on you
  25. mbrood
    I stand corrected Don, and modified my explanation. ;-)
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