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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    Does this help? I know it's not exacly what you want to do but it gives you the pin assignments and colors... http://bergall.org/temp/venture/headsetpins.jpg
  2. mbrood
    HEY... don't put down those 8-track players... us 1st gen owners are rather proud... And they make fancy adapters so we can play those new cassette thingies...
  3. mbrood
    Rick, Cool... good to know... That 85 is sure a mix... But they were headed in the right direction...
  4. mbrood
    The 83 is is a definite odd ball... it has a different bottom clasp and doesn't have the "U" shaped cutout for the gas tank selector switch. And I don't think the 84 and 85 have the mount screws for the adjustable louvers.
  5. mbrood
    Todd, Since that signal also feeds the fuel pump and #2... you might just have a mechanical problem with the gauge or a crusty connection from the TCI... but you are right, if everything else is working... smile and twist the throttle. I rebuilt a wrecked H1 Kawasaki and drove it for two years without a tach... nice bike... but then I got a tach and found out I was NEVER approaching it's power curve... yikes, that bike could scoot !
  6. mbrood
    For the high speed "hick-up"... I would REALLY check the carb diaphragms... first you would like to get your finger down into each carb throat... as it sits... and push back and release each plunger... they should slide smoothly back and come back with just a slight resistance as the vacuum bleeds but you should be able to hear each make a small "pop" as the slide comes to rest... look for any difference between the four. Then pop them out and, holding them up to sunlight, check the rubber for pinholes or small tears (normally found around the outside, but...) It's a this fabric coated on both sides with a vitron rubber (I believe), very soft and very flexible... in ANY repair you don't want to mess with the flexiblity!
  7. mbrood
    If they are all T-3 1/4 (wedge mount, indicator)... that difference between the wattage is pretty tiny. Most auto stores sell just the 3 watt... walmart offers a wider variety... Here's some direct info on GE bulbs... about half way down... figure # 71 GE W3W 3 watts GE 194 3.25 watts GE 193 4 watts GE 168 4.2 watts GE 147 5 watts I recommend the 168XL long life, rugged.
  8. mbrood
    I would also suspect the fuse clips in the "main" fuse box are also weakened from age and corrosion and brittle... if you can, GENTLY ease each fuse out and "FEEL" how the clips feel as you do, they should have a fairly snug grip, these get a softer and softer grip over time as they get brittle and lose their "springyness". Now the clips need to be cleaned and dialectric grease applied. You also want to clean and grease the larger, white, three pin connector for the stator (behind the left side cover, 3/4 up the frame "up tube", with three white heavier wires). Also check for discolloration of the white housing which would show heat from corroded or loose pin/socket fit. Do the same for the regulator connector. With the engine at about 2200 rpm, you should have 14.5 volts, coming from the regulator. Below about 1800 rpm the stator is putting out less and less voltage and the regulator drops out, causing the voltmeter to show that lower voltage as well. With the side cover and false gas tank cover off as well as the fuse panel cover... turn the bike on and let it idle for a bit... then start gently wiggling/twisting connections looking for a "twitch" on the voltmeter... I would start at the stator connection, then the 6 pin (5 wire) regulator connector, move up to the fuse panel and gently "rock" each fuse in it's mount, then move on to the connections in front of the battery and don't forget the main battery wires. Trying to find a poor connection with this action REALLY likes two people... one to play around and one to just carefully watch the gauge... and yeah, a good digital volymeter makes the detection easier to watch.
  9. mbrood
    The actuator and pump are on the upper left frame, just inside the upper fairing... Rather tough to get to with the left, upper fairing still mounted item 16 (pump) and 13 (vacuum actuator) http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gifx?d=41729,4,0
  10. mbrood
    The pick-up coils get ground through the wiring when connected to the TCI (grounded inside the TCI). Your resistance readings look fine. The ignition coils get 12 volts constantly on the "hot" side when the ignition switch is on and the other end goes to the TCI which temporarly grounds that coil when the pick-up coil triggers the TCI. You also want the check if the pick-up coils (unplugged) show ANY reading from each coil to chassis ground (it should be an open). Any readings on the ignition coils to ground is probably reading through other items also tied to that "hot" line feeding all four. The secondary side of the 3 ohm coils go through solid core ignition wire (basically zero resistance for all purposes) and goes into the stock plug cap which, if you look up inside is a retaining screw. Behind that is a small spring, a small copper thrust plate and then a small 10k resistor ... check these for any corrosion, clean as required. Get rid of ANY oil on the wires and caps. After quite a few years of running, most guys find a bit of "green" copper corrosion on the plug wire where it's screwed into the coils AND the plug caps... just cut 1/8" or so off and screw it back in. That green is NOT our friend. The TCI will heat up a bit as you are running and there's two holes in the upper side of the case which prevents any pressure build up but is also a dandy spot for pressure washers or heavy rain to find a way inside, so a few guys have had to pull the unit and slow bake the unit in an oven at about 200 degrees to "bake out" the moisture. If you ever get yours out... the early units used funky gray and blue "ball shaped" power diodes aoround the finals near the two big connectors that tend to fail (8 total) and should be replaced with 1N4001 series diodes. And as with almost all the electronics on these beasts, if you can get to the circuit board, resolder the main connector pins.
  11. mbrood
    Yes, the pressure sensor is the boost sensor... "boosts" the timing. You also want to check for leaks, cracks on that line as well as around the upper and lower carb boots
  12. mbrood
    If most of your riding is around town and short jaunts using higher gears, you'll find you are barely using the throttle... this puts the burden on the idle circuit. The gas jet inside the jet block is a 37.5 and VERY prone to clogging and partial, requiring more throttle to compensate. This is also a bit true for the idle mixture jet below the carb diaphragm cover. Now before anybody runs out and starts diddling... please take my notice... if she's running good and you haven't dinked with anything, you are normally ahead to leave her alone...!!! Now... to compare mileage rates... please add your "typical runs", have the carbs been synced recently, are the plugs changed regular, are you insuring that the oil level is never over half way up the sight glass, tires inflated properly...??? And the real important telltale... what do the plugs look like when you pull them?
  13. mbrood
    I would change it now and get a few miles on it (scruffed up and ready) so that when you START your trip... you are only looking ahead and with a smile. I can't see a reason to take a headache on a vacation.
  14. mbrood
    Great tip... We KNOW some parts are a straight ripoff and it's neat when someone catches a replacement. Good Job!!!
  15. mbrood
    If the rust in the carb looked like mine... http://bergall.org/temp/venture/carb-rust.jpg You might look at the fuel overflow pipe... mine was pretty nasty... The tank look ok but the inside of the overflow was rusted... tough to clean around that bend too...
  16. mbrood
    The tach "pick-up" for the tach comes from the TCI module. It is triggered by the ignition pick-up for the number 2 cylinder. The output of the TCI for that cyclinder also goes to the number 2 coil AND the fuel pump to act as a tickler trigger to keep the pump active (it's still pressure sensing so it doesn't run ALL the time, just on demand.). If your tach is jumping, this is a CLASSIC sign that the TCI is acting up. Has it seen a heavy rain lately, or a pressure wash that may have got it wet? Have you pulled the two connectors on it and really cleaned and greased them?
  17. mbrood
    Riderduke, I "knew" there was no such list... just couldn't pass up the comment on how the "contacts" were working out. I would enjoy a good meet and greet... I'm not able to get out much and most of my rides are VERY short and mostly sanity rides where I just HAVE to get out and back on a bike... I'm rarely able to run out a tank of gas on one "outing" and real envious of you that can... Oh... I'm just "Mike"... It's neat to hear about a "traveler's adventures"... And trouble free too!
  18. mbrood
    Item 22... better known as the idle mixture screw? (By the way, it's a fuel metering jet.) http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gifx?d=41712,4,0
  19. mbrood
    That just looks like a nasty failure. Sure glad you had help available. It's ok to think of pulling the engine... totally different to try it without help! Glad you'll be back on the road soon and get some "sanity rides" in...
  20. mbrood
    So let me get this straight... this guy is riding around the country side, calling member's wives... and having a great time on the road? This sounds like a really tough job. Where do folks sign up? Actually the fellowship shown here is amazing and appreciated. and the sign up list is where?
  21. mbrood
    The pins on the main connector block on the fairing mounted controller develop micro cracks and/or micro-corrosion on the pins and create an intermittent that creates these problems. Resoldering the pins resolves these issues. The "turning" of the connector.. I'm sure refers to twisting the connector in ONE dorection to load the pins and get better contact... a temperary fix that points to the need to open the unit and resolder the pins... reheat the PINS... not the solder pad... the pins develop a crystaline surface corrosion and reheating the pad does nothing to resolve the issue... reheat the PINS and the crytsaline structure breaks down and the solder reattaches to the pin.
  22. mbrood
    I was thinkin' about the scooter... but now that I take a good look... I want your dogs... Great lookin' team !
  23. mbrood
    You have to consider the damage you see. You have to do a LOT of disassembly to fully remove and replace a wiring harness. You have the service manual and the wiring all is fairly well color coded. I would think it best to disconnect any slice you find, ohm it to the "correct" connect points, insure the destination is what it's suppose to be or correct it. I use an old method of inline twist of wire ends, soldered and then apply a little dialecxtric grease on the wires and slip a good length of shrink tubing overr it all, heat and shrink. My previous owner was inventive... just twist the wires together and tuck them away when you can, let the others just hang. random blown fuses on the first couple rides brought this to light... find 'em... fix 'em.
  24. mbrood
    Everyody has their personal choices to make. It rarely serves the individual when the government decides to make that choice for you... I'm very comfortable wearing an (often uncomfortable) helmet when I ride. I wasn't going to wear a helmet for a short jaunt (quite a few years ago) since I was just going for a SLOW ride through the park... never even got out of first gear. It was a wonderful autumn day and hadn't rained in a couple days and it was just glorious. But I wore the helmet... mostly out of habit. I came to a corner and eased the clutch to continue around. I appreciated the SLIGHT moisture still on the ground but the asphalt had great grip... but I didn't fully consider the few dead leaves on the ground at the intersection which were also still moist. But that combination was like banana peel. The rear didn't feel like it broke loose, it felt like someone hit the back end of the bike and it just slammed the ground but all I really heard was something like a rifle shot. For just a second I had NO idea what the sound was but once I started to sit up I could feel neck and head hurt.. took off the helmet and it had a BIG chip. After a second I realized the bike and I both slammed down and inertia being rather a law I couldn't counter, my head had slammed pretty hard. I've often wanted to get back to a slow ride along the beach without a helmet, feel more air on my face... but I wear a helmet, and any passsengerr as well. Law or no law, it's a choice I make. Slow speed isn't necessarily safer.
  25. mbrood
    One of the two samples of DNA said to prove the existence of the Bigfoot came from a human and the other was 96 percent from an opossum, according to Curt Nelson, a scientist at the University of Minnesota who performed the DNA analysis. Bigfoot creatures are said to live in the forests of the U.S. Pacific Northwest. An opossum is a marsupial about the size of a house cat. Results of the DNA tests were revealed in an e-mail from Nelson and distributed at the Palo Alto, California, news conference held by Tom Biscardi, host of a weekly online radio show about the Bigfoot. Also present were Matthew Whitton and Rick Dyer, the two who say they discovered the Bigfoot corpse while hiking in the woods of northern Georgia. They also are co-owners of a company that offers Bigfoot merchandise. Despite the dubious photo and the commercial interests of the alleged discoverers, the Bigfoot claim drew interest from Australia to Europe and even The New York Times. Biscardi said the DNA samples may not have been taken correctly and may have been contaminated, and that he would proceed with an autopsy of the alleged Bigfoot remains, currently in a freezer at an undisclosed location. I think they did find a key beside the body for a 1st gen Venture...
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